Store  |  Projects  |  Tools  |  Techniques  |  Videos  |  Subscribe  |  Renew  |  Customer Service   

Woodworking Magazine Blog

Posted 9/1/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Saws
Bookmark and Share

One of the world's biggest tool collectors is bringing his brand-new traveling tool museum to Northern Kentucky on Oct. 1-2 to show it off to the public at the Woodworking in America event at the Northern Kentucky Convention Center.

John Sindelar of Edwardsburg, Mich., has spent his entire adult life amassing some of the world's rarest, most expensive and beautiful tools. And this year Sindelar built a traveling tool museum that will travel the country to share some of the highlights of his collection at festivals and fairs.

Even if you got shut out of the classes at Woodworking in America this year, the Marketplace itself is well worth the trip (and it's only $7 for two days).


Posted 8/30/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Our new book, "The Workbench Design Book" is at the printer and will ship at the end of September. It's a 256-page behemoth – and more than half of it is all-new material that I've been writing since February.

Starting today, you can pre-order your copy at 20 percent off – $27.99 plus free domestic shipping – until the book arrives at our warehouse. Then it will go to its full retail price of $34.99 plus free domestic shipping. (By the way, this book won't be available at Amazon for several months. However, Lee Valley Tools will have it this fall.)

Of course, some of you are wondering why I would write a second book on workbenches. So I've included the introduction to the new book below, which explains the book and its content. Also, for those of you who asked, this book is being produced, printed and bound in the United States.

If you are ready to order, you can jump to our store here. Otherwise, read on:


Posted 8/30/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I wrote a short review of Karl Holtey's No. 982 smoothing plane for the October 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine (which is mailing now to subscribers). And you don't write a review of a tool that costs $10,500 without bracing yourself for some comments from readers.

Overall, I quite liked the tool, which was on loan to us for several months from its owner. For me, the experience was like driving the BMW 700-series sedan that belonged to a friend of my mom. At first it was terrifying, and I handled the tool like an injured wombat. After a few weeks of babying it, however, I started to explore its limits.


Posted 8/27/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

I have four sets of screwdrivers. Three for loaning and one for using.

The set I never loan is made up of tools that were made (mostly) by the H.D. Smith & Co. company of Plantsville, Conn. Usually these are referred to as "perfect handle" screwdrivers. They are single drop-forged pieces of steel with a wooden handle that has been riveted into place. And they are tougher and more comfortable than any screwdriver I've used.


Posted 8/26/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I've been getting questions almost daily about the 18th-century French-style workbench I built for the cover of the August 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. The questions go something like this:

1. Has the benchtop exploded into pieces yet, you dufus?

2. Has the epoxy shattered?

3. How are your chiropractic bills with that leg vise?


Posted 8/25/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Learning to sharpen has little to do with your sharpening stones. It has a lot more to do with being able to see your progress and knowing when to stop.

Showing a class of woodworkers what a sharp blade looks like in the flesh (a real poor choice of words) has proven to be tricky for me. So I've resorted at times to line drawings, which helps.

Today a reader sent me some great photos he made using a scanning electron microscope, usually called an SEM in the business. Want to read about how the microscopes work? Brace yourself for some scary images of pollen.


Posted 8/24/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

We've been testing the Veritas Quick-release Sliding Tail Vise for several months now and have been keeping as mum as possible. Now I can break my mum-ness and discuss this interesting piece of new bench hardware.

The idea is simple: Put a traditional European tail vise and a machinist's quick-release vise into a tropical hotel with an ocean view. Open the mini bar. Order room service.


Posted 8/23/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

My first Stanley shoulder plane (a No. 93) was the worst plane I ever bought. The sole was more than 1/8" out of alignment, and it took me a couple hours on a belt sander to even get the tool working.

That dog of a tool was built during the sunset days of Stanley's U.K. plane production, and I've always imagined that my plane had been made by someone who was drunk, hung-over or having a nice stroke.


Posted 8/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Today we finalized the design for a nice poster that features the famous plate 11 from Andre Roubo's woodworking masterwork. The poster (redheads not included) will be ready for sale (on very nice paper) at Woodworking in America. It also will be available for sale in our store.

Plate 11, for those of you just joining us, shows one of Roubo's designs for workbenches, plus a scene from a French joinery shop. Some of the tools in the plate are not to scale, but the detail is tremendous and the lessons are there for you to decipher.

We're still working out pricing (should be about $20), and some other details. But here's a shot of the prototype with Linda (hiding behind the poster) and Megan (not hiding).

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

This morning we were messing around with the band saw blades and got into a discussion of how to fold and unfold them properly. I was taught to use my foot to fold it.

Robert Lang uses just his hands.

To release a band saw blade, I was taught to cast it to the ground, roughly, on one of our floor mats. It makes a great noise and people will jump a bit.

Robert Lang uses just his hands.

Megan shot this short video of the two techniques. The little dance at the end is free.

— Christopher Schwarz

Cuss It, I Need to Write More About Band Saws

• The best band saw book I know of is from Mark Duginske: "New Complete Guide to the Band Saw," which we now carry in our store. Hurrah! I bought the first version of this book years ago and still use it today when tweaking my band saw.

• Also good: Lonnie Bird's: "The Band Saw Book."

• Our best-selling book involving band saws is Lois Ventura's crazy (but cool) "Sculpted Band Saw Boxes." So many woodworkers have made these boxes from this book that they have even ended up in the reader's gallery of a competing magazine. That's flattery!


Posted 8/18/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I don't relish handing out bad reviews of tools. But as someone who gets stoned occasionally by an angry mob, I know that a critical review can help improve the quality of my work in the future.


Posted 8/17/2010 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Early Modern Drama majors are enablers. They have fancy library cards and access to stuff that makes you pasty white and boring at parties. I used to have friends. People used to say they liked me.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/17/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

I've been purging my shop and tool chests of excess tools this week. But now I'm afraid some of my tools are "taking the hint" and leaving on their own.

This morning I set out to dovetail a walnut carcase and found that one of my beloved dividers – an old Brown & Sharpe – was AWOL. So I had to use some bigger, clunkier dividers in tandem with my Starrett (shown above) to lay things out.


Posted 8/17/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Last month we showed you a preview of Len Hovarter's interesting twin-screw vise (check out that entry here and see a video). Today Hovarter's web site went live and is offering a $25 discount for pre-orders before Sept. 15.


Posted 8/14/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Watch this beautiful preview of the new DVD from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks on Peter Follansbee's "17th Century New England Carving," which will be available in early fall 2010.

You'll get to see some of Peter's work and Plimoth Plantation, where he works. If you're not in love with 17th-century furniture and methods, this preview (and seeing Peter's work) could change your mind.

And if you can't wait to get a dose of Peter, visit his blog "Joiner's Notes."

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/14/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Soon I will sell my Makita LS1013 miter saw. Not because it's junk – far from it. It's still the best miter saw I've ever used. But I don't need it anymore. During the last five years, I've started using miter boxes a lot more. And my Makita is just taking up space in my shop.

In an upcoming issue we're featuring an article by Ron Herman on how to select a miter box, so I don't want to steal his thunder here on the blog. But there is an important bit of miter box news that I wanted to share with you.


Posted 8/12/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

This year we are going to sell T-shirts at Woodworking in America. I swear this on a stack of Joseph Moxons. But we need your help.

You see, we'd like to have a humorous slogan on the shirt, but we're not funny enough to come up with anything suitably clever. All our slogans sound something like:

"Show me your feathered crotch!" (That was mine.)

"Wanna feel my fleam?" (Megan.)

"Gee, I've got cramps." (Megan, Glen and me.)

"I got hammered at WIA."

And so on.

So we'd like you to help us craft a slogan for our T-shirts. We're shooting for seven words or less. And it would be great if the slogan was funny, unlike ours. And it would be great if you could wear it to a church picnic, unlike ours.

So post your entries in the comments below before noon EST on Friday, Aug. 20. The winner will receive a T-shirt (surprise!), untold fame and Bob Vila's flowery underpants (shown above, not actual size, offer not valid in Guam).

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. Woodworking in America is sold out, but you can still get on the waiting list or come for the un-freaking-believable Marketplace (just $7 for two days). Check it out here.


Posted 8/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

If you've ever wanted to go to Germany and take a hand woodworking course from a guy who is mostly German (me), but doesn't speak a word of German (me again) but likes German beer, pork products and pork by-products (guilty), here's your chance.


Posted 8/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Several people have asked questions about the Marketplace at Woodworking in America. Here are some answers.

• If you are registered for classes at Woodworking in America, you can go to the Marketplace all you like. It's included in your registration fee.

• If you want to attend the Marketplace alone, then $7 gets you in for both days (Friday and Saturday). You'll either get an armband or two tickets.

• If you pay to go into the Marketplace (or are a full-conference attendee), you can visit John Sindelar's traveling tool museum (drool rags and Depends not included). It will be on the Marketplace floor.

• The Marketplace will also feature demonstrations by bodger Don Weber. Buy him a bagel or a beer and he'll teach you anything you want to know about coppicing, chairmaking or foot-powered turning.

• If you attend the Marketplace you can participate in the Hand Tool Olympics (game on, people).

• And yes, admittance to the restrooms is covered by the admission fee. You will be issued four tickets. One ticket per flush.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I like reading about workbench patents as much as I like movies about gladiators (which is a lot).

So here's how to prove your bench geekiness, and it won't cost a penny (except for the bandwidth). Jeff Burks has compiled almost 2,000 pages of United States patent papers and drawings related to workbenches and workholding between 1845 and 1960. The patents are arranged chonologically in a .pdf file, which has some basic bookmarks and is somewhat searchable using Acrobat's "find" feature.


Bookmark and Share

David Brookshaw has been making amazing tools since 1988 -- many of them miniatures that have appeared in some of the gorgeous tool books from Sandor Nagyszalanczy, including the cover of "Tools: Rare and Ingenious."

This November, Brookshaw is coming to Philadelphia for the Philadelphia Miniaturia show Nov. 6-7, where he'll be showing his miniature tool chest and workshop that we featured on the blog earlier (read about it here and here).

Lately Brookshaw has been making some pieces from the incredible Nessi collection of tools, including the ones below. These were featured in this book, which I bought in 2004 for $80. Ouch. But the essays and photos are well worth it for the ardent tool nutjob.

Brookshaw makes his pieces for sale. The dividers above, which are from the French book "Le Livre de l'outil." They were a commission that cost $3,000. So now I am reconsidering my decision to skip law school.

Check out the dividers below from the Nessi collection, and stop by the show in Philadelphia if you want to see more. You can contact Brookshaw through his web site.

— Christopher Schwarz

Other Tool Makers and Books You Should Investigate

• "Classic Hand Tools" by Garrett Hack

• "The Art of Fine Tools" by Sandor Nagyszalanczy

• Heinz Tools: heinztools.com, where I got my squirrel hammer!

• Gerd Fritsche's Traditional Handplanes: traditional-handplanes.com


Posted 8/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

As of 10 minutes ago, Woodworking in America is officially sold out. You can still sign up for a waiting list here or come and attend the amazing Marketplace that we have put together (admission to the Marketplace will be $7).

This will be the biggest Woodworking in America event yet. To ensure it's also the best one yet, we have secured additional space for instruction, we have brought on more than 60 vendors for the Marketplace (all woodworking-related), and we are even bringing in a traveling tool collection from John Sindelar that will make you (add hyperbolic verb here).

Thanks to all our customers who have supported us during these last three years to build Woodworking in America into one amazing orgy of tools, instruction and – dare I say it – community. We couldn't do it without you.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/9/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

If we ever change the name of our magazine to Erudite Blowhard Wood Finery, I know exactly where to get the headlines for all the projects we'll publish: The comments on this blog entry.

We had more than 90 readers enter our contest to come up with the most pompous name for a piece of furniture. Picking the winner was difficult. Here's the scientific way I did it: I picked my 10 favorite and then read them out loud at the staff meeting this morning. The one that got the biggest laugh won the contest.


Bookmark and Share

This has been one of our busiest years ever at Popular Woodworking Magazine. Plus, I have been in many foreign lands with exotic cultures and their own languages: France, England, North Carolina.

As a result of my travels, I haven't had a chance to introduce you to some of the interesting stuff we have been working on in the wee hours, including a jumbo-sized project called "Exercises in Wood-Working."


Posted 8/9/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Router planes are the Starsky. Handsaws are the Hutch.

These two tools work together all the time in my shop. In fact, all the sawing classes I teach are actually classes on the router plane in disguise. So I have seen a lot of woodworkers struggle with sharpening the router plane's L-shaped iron.


Posted 8/6/2010 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Following his trip to North Carolina to shoot two shows with Roy Underhill for "The Woodwright's Shop" and a three-day teaching stint at Roy's school, Chris took a few days to head south and visit with family in South Carolina.

But usually when Chris is out of the office, he continues to post blog entries. But yesterday? Nothing. And frankly, I'm a bit concerned.

Yesterday was International Beer Day. And Chris did not write about it. We should all be worried.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

photo by VoxEfx


Bookmark and Share

I've always been hesitant to get to know my personal heroes because it's usually a disappointment. They almost always turn out to be just like the rest of us. A bit vain. Self-conscious. Insecure. Troubled.

So when Roy Underhill of "The Woodwright's Shop" invited me to stay with him at his converted mill in North Carolina while I taught at his school, I was delighted and dejected.


Bookmark and Share

When I teach classes, I tell my students to buy their winding sticks in the “18th-century Tool Section” of their local home center.

They look puzzled until I pull out my winding sticks: two lengths of aluminum angle, one of which is painted black. Aluminum angle is cheap and makes a nice set of accurate winding sticks.
Posted 8/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

I would probably be a better person if I didn't interact with other people.

That is the thought that flashes through my head when Roy Underhill says to me: "I could go down the street and buy a plastic doll that you could saw in half."


Posted 8/2/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Personal Favorites | Saws
Bookmark and Share

So we shot two 25-minute episodes of "The Woodwright's Shop" today. So you are probably wondering what the heck I did with the other 23 hours of my day.

Manicure? Pedicure? Facial? Crystal Meth bender?

Nyet.

I woke up this morning at 6 a.m. at Roy's place -- he lives in an old mill, and the guest bedroom sits right on the water. We slugged down some coffee. Roy sat in a rocking chair and quietly looked out over the dam next to his mill. I was poring over one of his books on Virginia shore furniture (I could spend a month here just browsing this man's library).


Bookmark and Share

Let's say your table saw's guard is painted black. And you've figured out that if you put a piece of wood under it in a certain way, that usually it comes out cut like you intended. But sometimes not. After all, you can't see what's going on under that guard.

This sounds ridiculous, I know. But that's basically what many woodworkers do when they apply finish to their projects. They don't know how a finish works or why it works (or doesn't). In fact, finishing is still considered by many of us to be a "black art," with secret formulas and the like.


Posted 7/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Boring | Chisels | Handplanes | Marking and Measuring | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I'm packing up all the tools I'll need in North Carolina for the coming week, and I was a bit shocked this morning as I went through my checklist.

One of the "Woodwright's Shop" television programs Roy Underhill and I are shooting this weekend will deal with the typical toolkit of a joiner circa 1839. I compiled my list based on an old book, "The Joiner & Cabinet Maker," which detailed the fictional life of a young apprentice.


Bookmark and Share

I know I am going to get flack for this, but I cannot help myself.

Last week we received two copies of a cool new book in the mail – "500 Cabinets: A Showcase of Design & Craftsmanship" (Lark). The book is (though I didn't count the cabinets) a collection of 500 designs from woodworkers all over the world.

Most of the cabinets are contemporary, and almost all of them are fun to look at. All the staff members here have been paging through these books since they arrived. I really like these books because you get to see a wide range of work, and it's usually beautifully presented.

But there is something about these books (and some contemporary furniture in general) that makes me giggle:


Posted 7/27/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Isshi Yamada never said much to me when I was dating his daughter in college. To us Western students who studied Eastern religions, he was an enigmatic Zen Buddhism professor who was famous for giving exams that bordered on the surreal.

Most of my memories of Dr. Yamada put him sitting at his dining room table in a worn Irish fisherman's sweater – drinking a little sake and watching the affairs of the household.

One day, however, Dr. Yamada became quite animated on the topic of human perception. And his short lecture sticks with me to this day.

"What is the one thing the eye cannot see?" Dr. Yamada asked.


Posted 7/26/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

I leave for North Carolina this week to shoot two episodes of "The Woodwright's Shop" with Roy Underhill then teach a three-day class on handsawing at Underhill's little Utopia of a woodworking school in Pittsboro, N.C.

One of the shows will be on English handsawing (no on-screen French-sawing DIY vasectomies are planned) and the other show will be about the simple toolkit of a joiner, circa 1839.

To prepare for the class and show, I built a new sawbench this weekend.


Posted 7/20/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Bob Baker, a furniture and tool restorer and excellent planemaker, died unexpectedly last week.

I had the pleasure of meeting Bob in February of 2006 when we hosted a gathering in Cincinnati for many of the best planemakers and gave each of them the opportunity to present their work to one another, and to talk about planes, planemaking and toolmaking in general. Bob was high on that list of "best planemakers." In the picture at left, he's presenting two of his planes to the rest of the group.

I met him only that one day, but as I look back through the pictures of the event, I remember a kind and genuine man who had a grin on his face almost the entire time. Kari Hultman, who knew him better than did I, has written more about Bob on her blog, The Village Carpenter, and there are some touching comments below her post that I hope you'll take the time to read.

Chris wrote a story about about our "planemakers'" event for the August 2006 issue, which features some of Bob's work. You can link to it here

— Megan Fitzpatrick


Posted 7/20/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Just about every week, someone asks Chris, “How can I get started in working with hand tools?” Sure, there’s a lot of information on the Internet…not to mention in our magazine, in other magazines and books, and on this blog and others. But it can be difficult to sort through the scads of information (some of it contradictory) and pick out what you need. That’s why we’re particularly pleased that we are reprinting a classic but little-known book: “Exercises in Wood-Working,” by Ivin Sickels.


Posted 7/12/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Mark Harrell at Bad Axe Tool Works has always taken a different path than other modern sawmakers. Instead of imitating the look of classic British saws, Harrell has always favored American styles, with their steel backs and distinct tote profile. And he launched his sawmaking business by making the biggest backsaws first – most sawmakers have started by introducing a dovetail saw.

This summer Harrell has introduced two new backsaws that are going to make your buying decisions far more difficult.


Posted 7/9/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

There are few things I dislike more than seeing myself in video. I'm one of those guys who has a face for radio. And when I talk, I move my hands in a way that looks like I am giving myself an erotic chest massage.

But readers have asked – insisted even – that we provide video instruction for things that are difficult to show with words and still photos. So I've swallowed my discomfort – hard.

For more than three months, Glen D. Huey and Drew DePenning filmed me as I was building the workbench shown on the cover of the August 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. Nothing was faked or set up for the cameras. It was just me working, Glen filming, me sweating and Glen chuckling.

In all, we recorded more than 40 hours of video, which Drew has been distilling into a compact narrative that explains in the most succinct terms possible how to build this bench using hand tools. We were able to greatly condense the story of building the bench by almost eliminating the "talking head" part of woodworking videos (a crime of which I am guilty on occasion).

Instead, most of the video is of me working with narration layered over the video. In film, narration is a "cheap plot device," according to one of my favorite film professors. But I think it works here.

In addition to the video, the DVD has some extras that you will find useful.

• There is the complete story from the August 2010 issue with the cutting list and construction drawings, plus two additional views of the leg joinery.

• An extensive slideshow that contains more than 80 images – many of them unpublished. This shows you nitty-gritty details in high resolution so you can study them.

• SketchUp files of the bench, plus two variants I worked on and a SketchUp file that shows you how I took Roubo's image of the leg and transformed it into a real working joint.

I am very not displeased with this DVD – my highest praise for my own video work.

As of today, the DVD is now in stock in our warehouse and is shipping. The DVD is $24.99.

If you are considering buying it, would you do me a favor and use this link? They track this stuff, and thanks to you guys, I won $100 in beer money, which I plan to share with the entire staff.

And speaking of beer, I think my chest massage thing could perhaps become a drinking game for you and your woodworking buddies. You have to drink anytime I'm treating my chest like an old-fashioned radio. Or anytime I say the word "unit."

As always, thanks for your support. It's why I still get to work here and am not the "detail sander" editor.


— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/9/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

At high school reunions there's always the guy you don't recognize because he's gained 200 pounds and is nursing a spectacular goiter. This workbench is like that.

Eagle-eyed reader Andrew Midkiff sent in these photos of a workbench he spotted in a water-powered grist mill at the West Point of the Eno City Park in Durham, N.C.

The top is a huge slab. But what confused me at first was that the legs are attached to the top using giant, round through-tenons.


Posted 7/9/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

After five years of whining, someone listened to (or became merely weary of) my complaints about the search function on this blog.


Posted 7/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When I worked at a liquor bottling plant one summer, the bosses found out I was in college and decided to put me in charge of the robots.

I had to summon the robots from the warehouse, pick up an entire pallet of coffee liquor with a giant robot arm and load it on the little scurrying buggers.

Oh, I also forgot to mention something: I know nothing about robots.


Posted 7/6/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I can make my own beef jerky, but that doesn't mean I want to apply veneer-making techniques to a hapless bovine.

So when I found out that long-time woodworker Bill Rittner was making knobs and totes for vintage Stanley planes, I jumped at buying a set for my vintage No. 6 fore plane.


Posted 7/6/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Corrections | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

The cutting list for the 'The Return of Roubo' workbench in the August 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine has a small error in the cutting list. And I'd like to quickly clarify a couple things about the construction drawing.


Posted 7/2/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Sorry for all the bench posts. (Hey, that should be the name of this blog.) I have a lot of extra jetsam (or is it flotsam?) sitting around as I crank out my next book. Here's an awesome piece of detritus.

A couple years ago a reader sent me a cardboard box containing two unused pieces of bench hardware – and the instructions! – from the Mechanical Manufacturing Co. One piece of hardware, a bench clamp, is stamped as patent pending (but I can't find a patent for it). The other gizmo, one of 10 billion bench hooks patented between 1854 and 1920, received a patent in 1910.


Posted 7/2/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Michigan engineer Len Hovarter has developed a new vise mechanism that looks more like a magic trick than bench hardware.

The vise hardware is patent pending and should be available in September, Hovarter says. This hardware is just so cool, that I wanted to share it with you now – in case you are planning on building a bench this fall. I've ordered a set of the hardware from Hovarter, so I'll be testing the stuff myself. Until the hardware becomes commercially available, we'll just have to enjoy these photos and a short movie.


Posted 6/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

We need more workbenches for Woodworking in America. The event, Oct. 1-3 here in the Cincinnati area, is by far bigger than the last three events we've held.

And me, I'm going a little stir crazy. I've spent the last three weeks writing the remaining chapters to a follow-up book to "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use." (While my first workbench book is like the Old Testament, this new book – tentatively titled "The Workbench Design Book" – will be the New Testament. But more on that topic later.)

In any case, I am not getting enough time in the shop. So yesterday evening I was excited when a neighbor summoned me to his shop and pulled open a cardboard box.


Bookmark and Share
No matter how many times I've complained in the last five years, I have been unable to get our technical people to change the search function on this blog, which stinks.

So I'm taking matters into my own hands. It might be a little rough, but I've created a custom search through Google, which I will start embedding in my blog. This search will automatically use Google to search this blog, plus my personal blog at home, which is also dedicated to woodworking.

Let's hope this works.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 6/24/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I've always resisted adding wheels or a mobile base to my workbenches. They can be complex, in the way of your feet and take some fiddling to engage and disengage.

So we've always put our benches up on furniture dollys when we needed to move them.

However, readers have pestered me for years now for ideas on how to make their benches mobile.


Posted 6/23/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

For many years I was happy with my Olson coping saw, which I bought from the now-vanished Aufdenkamp Hardware in 1996. The saw locked tight. It held the blade without rotating. And when armed with Olson-brand blades, the thing cut smoothly and quickly.

A few years ago, the saw began to tick me off.


Posted 6/23/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

This morning, Glen Huey, Megan Fitzpatrick and I went into rural Ohio to fetch some wood for a new workbench for Megan's study (it's long story; ask her).

Megan had scored some sweet Eastern white pine logs that were left over from building a log cabin; they were kiln dried, fairly clear and about 10 years old. All for $100. The only problem was that some were 17' long -- too long even for Glen's capacious lorry (as Megan would put it).


Posted 6/21/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

My latest DVD, "Build an 18th-century Workbench" is now available for pre-order in our store at a 15-percent discount until June 30 – $21.24 plus shipping.

As I was building the workbench that will be featured on the cover of the August 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine, Glen Huey and Drew DePenning spent hours in the shop filming the construction process during the three months I was working on the bench. (Note: I'm not slow. I just have a day job.)

Since I finished the bench, Drew has been condensing the footage into a short but information-packed video that shows the entire construction process from working the raw slabs of wood to mixing and applying the finish that I like to use on workbenches.


Posted 6/18/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels
Bookmark and Share

Until we get some sets of these chisels in-house, there's no way to answer all of our (or your) questions about these tools. However, thanks to Publisher Steve Shanesy, we now have more details from the Stanley press conference and – if you can stand it – a little speculation on my part at the end of the blog entry.

The Stanley Sweetheart chisels are, according to the company, aimed at the woodworking market.

"We are going back after the professional woodworking market," according to a Stanley official. "We want to compete with Lie-Nielsen and Veritas."


Posted 6/18/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

This is by request. And for me this is like showing you my basement. Did you see the pawn shop's basement in "Pulp Fiction?" It's like that – but without the Spandex, leather and shotguns.

A reader asked to see the angle-setting guide I use for setting my tools in my side-clamp honing guide when sharpening. It was featured (briefly) in the DVD "Handplane Basics" that we released late last year.

Before we get into details and philosophy, let me state that I know this jig isn't a new idea. And my version is junky blue-stained Eastern white pine. It is nothing like the sexy guide made by Deneb Puchalski at Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. Heck, that thing has a leather thong. No lie.


Posted 6/17/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Stanley Toolworks unveiled three new hand tools today at a press conference in New York City – two different kinds of chisels and a shoulder plane.

I couldn't attend the press conference, but Publisher Steve Shanesy is there (as I type this) taking photos with his phone. I don't have a lot of details yet, but here is the first look at the new Sweetheart socket chisels, which look like Stanley's venerable 750 tools (and Lie-Nielsen's).


Posted 6/16/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

People often divide our country into North and South using a variety of metrics. There's the Mason-Dixon line, of course. The Barbecue Line (the word means "grilled meat" in the North and "porky heaven" in the South). And so on.

I use the "Yellow Pine Line." This fantastic material is difficult to find in many Northern climes, except as pressure-treated nastiness. And in the South, the stuff is so common that it grows on trees.

I think it's an ideal workbench material. It's cheap. It's stable. It's stiff. It's easy to flatten. It's available in wide widths. So it should come as no surprise that I get e-mails like this one from Paul:

I live in Aurora, Ill., a western Chicago suburb. It does not appear to be a location friendly to the Southern Yellow Pine that you've prized in earlier articles.  Home Depot/Lowe's/Menards all stock, at best, SPF...so I don't really know what I'm getting.

So now, the question – how might I best obtain woods with the density/strength that you recommend – in a land like mine that seems very un-woodworking friendly?

One note – one of your articles on Southern Yellow Pine suggested that, if it can't be found, that we take the pickup truck down to Cincinnati. Unfortunately, that won't be a good option for my Ford Taurus these days (though it would be fun to do).

I've thought of just dealing with the SPF that Home Depot offers, but I am afraid that I'd be disappointed with it in a year. I'd like my bench to last five, 10, or more years.


Well the easy answer would be to use "SPF" which is a grab-bag category for "spruce, pine or fir." It's certainly strong enough, though usually it's a little soft. And some places don't dry it as well as necessary. But the good news here is that you are actually close to the "Yellow Line." You don't have to come to Cincinnati to get Southern Yellow Pine. In fact, I know of some people in Chicago who have found it in the city at lumberyards (if you are out there, please chime in with the name of the yard!).

Even if you cannot find it in the city, you should be able to sneak over the border to Indiana and find some. It's amazing how the wood choices can change radically by changing your geography slightly

And finally, let me repeat something that I've said about 100 times about workbench materials: Almost any wood will do. Pick something that is readily available, inexpensive, dry and stiff. You'll be fine.

— Christopher Schwarz

Other Workbench Resources I Recommend

• Tim Celeski's excellent workbench site: workbenchdesign.net.

• I actually still like my book "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use."

• We have a nice and inexpensive CD of many of the workbench and shop plans we've published "The Best of Shops & Workbenches."

• Watch Roy Underhill's episodes (free!) where he builds a French bench.


Posted 6/15/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

In the world of infill planes, there are several tools that stand out as iconic designs, including Karl Holtey's "bad arse" A13 and his groundbreaking No. 98, which laid the groundwork for all the modern bevel-up planes.

On this side of the Atlantic, few planes are as distinct as Stephen M. Thomas's "Loopy" infill. It started as a joke, way back in the early years of the Badger Pond discussion group (we didn't have WiFi, we didn't have Skype, we didn't have "air" – and we liked  it!).


Posted 6/14/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Some days I forget that not all woodworking tools are designed by woodworkers (see: many of the honing guides on the market).

And I forget that some tools are just designed to trick your family members into buying them for you at Christmas (see also: the battery-operated tape measure and C-clamp).

This weekend as I was cleaning up the shop a bit, I started thinking about many of the odd, unnecessary or downright counterproductive features on tools and machinery. Here's my short list.


Posted 6/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

This week we received a visit from James Travis, who built what could be the most ornate sawbench.

Travis, who is in his early 20s, was traveling through Cincinnati on his way from Boston to San Antonio, Texas, and dropped by the shop. Travis recently completed the "Three-month Furniture Making Intensive" program at the North Bennet Street School in Boston and was headed back to Texas to set up shop as a furniture designer and craftsman.


Posted 6/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

This is the last post on Joseph Moxon's double-screw vise. Promise.

Wednesday morning while I was in the shower, my brain clicked. (Hey! twice in one month!) On Tuesday, Glen Huey and I were discussing how to make a double-screw vise without a wood-threading kit. He suggested bolts. I suggested pipe clamps. We left it at that.

Then, at 5:15 a.m., the lukewarm water of our shower brought on this idea: F-style clamps. Everyone has them. So I scurried off to work and immediately began fussing with some poplar at my bench. I had a rear jaw and chop already prepared for threading. The holes were drilled, and the blank for the handles was waiting on the lathe.

Instead I took the poplar parts to the table saw and milled a 1/4"-wide groove in the ends of the rear jaw and the chop. Each groove intersected a hole and was just wide enough to accept the bar of an F-style clamp.

I slid two short F-style-clamps into the grooves and filled in the grooves with some poplar scraps (purple poplar – my personal favorite).

Does this vise work? Heck yes. And later that day Glen and Robert Lang and I came up with some other ways we could do this without permanently installing the F-style clamps. (However, I prefer it this way.)

The best thing was that making this twin-screw vise took – at most – 30 minutes.

Perhaps I should shower more often.

— Christopher Schwarz

Other Workbench Resources You Might Enjoy

• "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use." Now in its third printing.

•  "The Best of Shops & Workbenches" CD from Popular Woodworking.

• "The Workbench: How to Design or Modify a Bench for Efficient Use DVD" from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks


Posted 6/9/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings
Bookmark and Share

The Skansen bench that I built for the April 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine has proved to be a popular project with readers. But if you like, you can do a better job of emulating the original than I did.

I built the project for our "I Can Do That" column, which features furniture you can build using basic tools and home-center materials. As a result, we sometimes have to make design changes to our projects because of the rules set down by the column.


Posted 6/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

In my DVD "Building Furniture With Hand Planes," we offer plans for a Shaker Hanging Cabinet, which is what I'm working on throughout the DVD.

However, as some viewers have pointed out, the plans on the DVD are for a cabinet with a solid-panel door. In the DVD, I'm building a divided-light door.

If you need plans and details for the divided-light door, I've posted a link below to download a dimensioned SketchUp drawing of the door that you can take apart and study. Now, some of you might be confused by how the mullions are put in. I use a technique taught to me by Glen D. Huey that is a huge time-saver.

Shaker_Cabinet_Door.zip (126.82 KB)


Posted 6/7/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Earlier this year I met a fellow woodworker named Chuck Isaacson of Sun Prairie, Wisc., who broadcasts his wood shop on http://www.ustream.tv/channel/sac-s-woodshop. I was inspired and intrigued by how effortlessly Chuck got around his shop. He was able to move about in a way that most woodworkers would envy. The reason this stood out more than other woodworkers I have watched work in their shops is because Chuck is in a wheelchair.

Chuck was deployed in Afghanistan. On Feb. 18, 2007, in southern Afghanistan Chuck's life was forever changed. Chuck was then a sergeant in the U.S. Army and a flight engineer on a Chinook helicopter. With only days left on his tour, the helicopter he was riding in crashed due to winter weather. He wasn't scheduled to be on the flight but took it over for a friend who had injured his back and couldn't make the flight. After the crash, Chuck awoke to find himself sitting in the snow and not able to move his lower body.


Posted 6/7/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

If a sliding deadman and a crochet got married and had a baby (well, actually if they had a litter), it might look like the workbench of Jan C. Goris of St. Louis, Mo.

Goris's pine workbench is based on the French Roubo-style platform, but it has some modern workholding touches that are worth examining.


Posted 6/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Joseph Moxon I could kiss your dessicated worm-eaten corpse.

My newest version of the double-screw vise illustrated in Moxon's "Mechanick Exercises" (1678) is a complete success. The vise is simple – five pieces of wood. And the only special equipment you need to build it is a wooden threadbox and tap (a $45 investment). And it takes only about an hour to construct.


Posted 6/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

Steam-bending wood is awesome, but I've never been a big fan of having a potential bomb in my house (or in the office). So I've worked at mastering cold-lamination bending, but I've found there's a lot of prep work (resawing, drum sanding, etc.), and the plastic resin glue is nasty stuff. It's the only glue that has ever gashed my arm.

So yesterday I pleased to see a big box propped up against my front door.


Posted 6/2/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Saws | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

John Sindelar, who owns the most jaw-dropping, drool-inducing tool collection I've ever seen, is bringing a big chunk of it to our Woodworking in America show Oct. 1-3 in Cincinnati.

And here's the best part: The collection will be displayed (in a traveling trailer) that will be on the floor of the Marketplace. If you are registered for our event, then you will get to tour the collection. No extra charge. Nothing else to register for.


Posted 6/1/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Adam Cherubini at a Lie-Nielsen Handtool Event in Philadelphia.

This Friday afternoon we throw open our doors to the public for the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event. This free event is free, and it also is free. If you've ever wanted to learn about hand tools, sharpening them and then putting them to use, this is a great opportunity.

However, this isn't just some free show with free admission.
Posted 6/1/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Threading and tapping wood is fairly easy work, once you get your thread box set up.

When I started here at the magazine in 1996, we had a bunch of threading kits sitting on a shelf. Like the handplanes next to them, they looked great in the background for photographs, but they didn't see much work.


Posted 5/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When I was assisting a woodworking class this April, a student asked why anyone would buy an infill plane. They are more expensive than a premium plane from Veritas or Lie-Nielsen, and perform at the same very high level.

"Well," I answered. "I build stuff by hand. When people occasionally buy my stuff it's expensive. So I believe in supporting people who build tools in the same way I build furniture."

Another student at the back of room put it better than I did:


Posted 5/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

This summer Lie-Nielsen Toolworks will release a DVD on the basic principles of using handsaws and backsaws. During the video, I quote the Bible, cut all sorts of joints and am constantly menaced by flies.


Posted 5/27/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

The dust collection on our shop's cabinet saw sucks. Let me re-phrase that. It doesn't suck. Zero suckage. Two holes. Tons of waiting.

We have a big cyclone dust -collection system. We have our cabinet saw hooked up at its base and in the basket guard. Still the dust tends to build up in the cabinet. (Note: It hasn't ever gotten as bad as when Glen D. Huey turned on his Unisaw and the blade wouldn't move because the dust had collected up to the arbor, stopping the motor.)


Posted 5/27/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

For me, this is like the day I first saw my name in the phone book. I am somebody.

This summer I'm teaching a three-day class at Roy Underhill's school, The Woodwright's School, in Pittsboro, N.C., conveniently located next to the City Tap room. The class will run Aug. 2-4 and will be on sawing.


Posted 5/27/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Finishing
Bookmark and Share

This morning I added a coat of pitch black milk paint to my sack-back chair.

After you strain milk paint, it's a lot more like adding a colored wash than it is like painting. (It's funny how my wife doesn't even bother asking me what I want her old pantyhose for anymore.)


Posted 5/27/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Finishing | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Early chairs – especially American ones – look best when they are painted.

Like any good woodworker who is in love with his or her raw material, I've tried to make stick chairs without painting them. Some chairs, such as two Welsh stick chairs I built six years ago, look pretty good to my eye without paint. But they don't look traditional. Their albino skin tone makes them look quite contemporary.


Posted 5/26/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

As the finish was drying yesterday on my double-screw vise, I took a few minutes to turn a new handle for my bench screw, which pierces my crochet (which sounds dirty, but isn't really).


Posted 5/25/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When I was a young nerdling, I loved the video game "Ultima" – not because of the raping and the pillaging, but because you spent most of your time exploring a huge map of the world. Everyplace on the map that you had never been was pitch black, lightening up only when you stepped foot into the unknown.

I think that's one of the reasons I like woodworking. My best days in the shop are when I'm trying to master something for the first time, or I'm exploring something I saw in an old woodworking book that didn't make sense and left me in the dark.


Posted 5/24/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Fair warning: I have little doubt that we will sell out our Woodworking in America conference Oct. 1-3 in Cincinnati. We already have more people registered than we did for our first conference in Berea, Ky., and we've only had registration open for two weeks.


Posted 5/24/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

It took a fetus to convince me to come to Cincinnati in 1996. But I don't think you need to resort to such drastic measures (and perhaps painful surgery) to get your family in the car and on the road to Cincinnati next weekend for the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event on June 4-5.

When most people think of Cincinnati, they think of the television show "WKRP," perhaps they think of the Reds and maybe even the odd stuff we call chili here. (Side note: This is the only town in America where you can tell a waitress you want a "three-way" and not get slapped.)


Posted 5/22/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

"When newspaper reporters write about this school, some of them write, 'And he builds chairs without using nails!' That's like saying: 'And he builds automobiles without using hamburger.'"

— Michael Dunbar, May 20, 2010


During my week at The Windsor Institute in Hampton, N.H., I've gotten a lot of questions from readers of the blog about the school, their equipment, their teaching methods and if my father is willing to switch teams (he's not).


Posted 5/21/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Chair classes are like soap operas. There are long periods where everything is reasonable and rational. And those are punctuated by brief forays into the bizarre, unreal or macabre.

As we close in on assembling our sack back chairs this week, several things are becoming obvious. First: With every minute that passes you are out further on a tightrope over the falls. One small slip, and you could bring the whole thing crashing down.


Posted 5/20/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Do you like the look of the strapping doctor in the plaid shirt above? That's my dad. Today he learned about the power of a blog, and he just asked me if I could use it to find him an attractive female companion.


Posted 5/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Chair making is an equal-opportunity agonizer. After the first day of dealing with spindles and steam-bending, we came back to our beach-town bungalow (price $300 for the week!) and collapsed on the couches.

We each had a beer in hand and sat immobile for a good 30 minutes before we could get up the energy to scratch our noses. We were whupped like rented mules.


Posted 5/18/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Green wood is a wacky thing. Yes, it can be easy to work. But don't fall for its easy-going nature. It's like a Type-A hippie chick.


Posted 5/16/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Quick – it is time to make up a quick excuse to your boss to arrange a sham business trip to Cincinnati on June 4-5. On those two days we are going to open wide the doors of our office and shop and host a Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event.

(If you need ideas for how to trick your boss into traveling here, let me know. We have a wide variety of businesses here. Just say "Procter & Gamble," "Kroger" and "Macy's.")


Posted 5/16/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Most American woodworkers struggle with bowsaws. Now before you think that bowsaws are tools for beret-wearing, Gitano-smoking woodworkers who eat espresso and croissants when on a break, think again.


Posted 5/15/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

This week I'll be taking a sack back Windsor chair class with maestro Michael Dunbar at The Windsor Institute, his school in Hampton, New Hampshire (a state my daughter has re-named "New Hampster").

This is my third chair class. I took my first one in Canada with David Fleming. My second class was with bodger Don Weber. And at long last, I have made it here for a class.


Posted 5/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I'm starting to think that a bench crochet pierced by a screw is likely the great-grandpappy of the venerable shoulder vise – the favorite face vise of dovetailing demon Frank Klausz.


Posted 5/7/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Sometimes I am so dense that it's a wonder that my parents ever allowed me to stop attending a Saturday school program for slow kids (true story).


Posted 5/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Here's the nearly completed shot of the handmade Roubo workbench that will be on the cover of the August 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. The only thing missing is me showing off a bit more sun-deprived flesh and a non-Botox pout -- look for that post tomorrow.


Posted 5/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I finished up work on the base configuration of this old-style Roubo workbench last night for a photo shoot today. But before I tore apart the shop and moved all of our workbenches around for the photographer, there was one last task to perform.


Posted 5/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

My psychological oddities include: A fear of being tackled by females in elf suits and enmity toward all birdhouses.

Perhaps my hostility to birdhouses springs from my days as a Cub Scout where I built too many of them. Heck I'm also still haunted by visions of milking a plywood cow with an udder made from a rubber glove and learning to wring a chicken's neck. (That is a great-looking merit badge, I tell you what.)


Posted 4/29/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

The woodworkers who are restoring the White Water Shaker Village are making significant progress – just in time for the Woodworking in America tour of the village on Oct. 3.


Posted 4/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Scotty Fulton

I thought I had a hammer-collecting problem until I met Scotty Fulton.

Fulton set me straight: 50 hammers is not much of a collection. Try 12,000 hammers – virtually all of them different, all of them carefully cataloged by his wife, Karen, and all of them displayed beautifully in his barn outside Maysville, Ky.

Now that is a hammer problem.


Posted 4/27/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The subject of skew block planes gets people's bodily juices going.

When I announced at our weekly staff meeting that we had received a new skew block plane from Veritas, two of the editors who use primarily power tools sat up straight and said "Really!?" and "Cool!"

After many years of working here, I can reliably translate "power tool guy" language. (I also speak "drunk guy," "baby talk" and "agitated feline.") So here's a quick translation of "Veritas Skew Block Plane."


Posted 4/26/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

In the debate of round bench dogs vs. square bench dogs, I have tried to remain neutral.

But after years of working on both, I have decided to cast my lot in with the round dog camp. Here are a few reasons why:


Posted 4/20/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

If you ever decide to delve into traditional woodworking, you quickly learn that wedges are your friend.

Build chairs? You need to wedge all the joints. Traditional doors? Wedge your through-tenons. Workbenches? Wedge everything you can. But where do wedges come from?


Posted 4/16/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

For this Roubo workbench to work, I've got 16 joints that have to come together all at once. There is not an option to glue things up in stages and still guarantee success.

As a result, I tried to give myself some wiggle room.


Posted 4/15/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

If you've been trying to reach me during the last few weeks, I apologize. The answers to your questions are:


Posted 4/14/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Boring
Bookmark and Share

I love me some blue masking tape. I have at least four rolls of the stuff at my bench and use it for all sorts of tasks, from shimming a shooting board to stopping the flow of blood.

Yet, there is one common use of the tape that I dislike:


Posted 4/12/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

You know that you've been building a Roubo workbench when you chop a 1-1/4" wide, 4"-long and 3"-deep blind mortise and it's comically easy.

Today I'm getting back into the swing of things on this Roubo workbench. My goal is to have the stretchers dry-fit into the legs by the end of the week. There are several things that could get in my way.


Posted 4/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

I don't like adverbs – you know, words like "extremely," "fallaciously" or "throbbingly." But I am at a complete loss to otherwise describe the wack-nutty bendable wood that Jeff Miller showed me this weekend during the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event in Chicago.


Posted 4/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

The hardest part of ripping (besides the exertion) is making a square cut through the thickness of the work. It's fairly easy to follow your line when ripping, but it's also easy to make that cut at an angle, especially in thick stock.


Posted 4/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

After a couple of weeks of working with the legs for this new workbench, I am certain the material is not pine.

Yes, I know. Shocker. The good people at Home Depot were mistaken.

What is it? Heck if I know.


Posted 4/6/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

One of the goals of this latest bench is to build a piece with enough visual interest that you could put it in a dining room (think sideboard) or a living room (think table behind a couch).

I've added lots of details that I think will make this work in a living space (as well as a workshop), but there is one flourish I'm not so sure about. That's where you come in.


Bookmark and Share

With Woodworking in America in our backyard this fall, we are going all out to show the attendees a good time in the greater Cincinnati area.

So we've planned several extracurricular activities for the attendees. All of these events below have a limited number of seats available and will be first-come, first-served (except the pub crawl). There will be a small added expense (except for the pub crawl) to cover transportation or food. We're not doing these to make money -- we're doing them because, uh, we really want to do these things during Woodworking in America and thought you might, too.


Posted 4/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

The Marketplace for this year's Woodworking in America conference is the deadliest ever. By deadly, I mean you better start saving your pennies and moving some money out of that Cayman Islands account. We already have more than 40 exhibitors confirmed for the show – with some more in the wings.

These are top-shelf manufacturers that make or sell woodworking equipment or provide instruction. There will be no purveyors of magic towels or wacky ladders. Just woodworking.


Posted 4/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

This year's Woodworking in America conference features 44 different classes taught by world-class instructors with lots of opportunity for you to get dusty, sweaty and skilled.


Posted 4/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

The April Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event in Chicago is starting to become a bit of a tradition. It's a great little show with some good exhibitors: Jameel Abraham from Benchcrafted, Ron Brese of Brese Planes, and John Economaki from Bridge City Tools.

Plus, I'll be there, as will Thomas Lie-Nielsen himself.


Posted 4/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I'm thankful when I can see disaster coming. Being able to spot a potential problem is the gift of experience, but it is also like a tranquilizer dart used to take down a rabid African elephant.

Today I was cleaning up the sliding dovetail socket for the fourth and final leg of this French-style workbench. And the deeper I plunged with my router plane and chisel, the more concerned I became. What looked like a little punkiness on the underside of the benchtop was turning into a tumor worthy of "One Life to Live."


Posted 4/2/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Some of the superstars of the period furniture world will gather June 25-27 at Thaddeus Stevens College of Technology, located in Lancaster, Penn., for a long weekend of demonstrations and discussion.


Posted 3/31/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

So I'm mortising this benchtop this morning when I hit a patch of epoxy and bam! My chisel's helve split like a Twix bar. Dang, this epoxy is tough stuff.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. The above is a work of satire. Epoxy has neither the ability nor the ill will to damage your chisels. The Epoxy Institute claims – and I believe them because they advertise – that epoxy can be chiseled, sanded and makes a great addition to a RoTel dip. Go epoxy!


Posted 3/31/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

To modern eyes, old-school workbenches look like they are going to self-destruct.

The legs are tenoned into the benchtop (which moves with the seasons). And stretchers (that don't move) are tenoned into the legs. Something has to give, right? Otherwise your benchtop will be cleaved asunder, creating a "split-top Roubo" a la naturel.


Posted 3/30/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

After a little tweaking of the mortise, the first leg went in. You can see a gap at the shoulder (it's about 1/16" now). That's actually what's left of the rough underside of the top. I'll take down the middle hump on the underside and it should close right back up.

Assuming, that is, I can get the leg out of the mortise.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/30/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I started cutting the mortises and the dovetail sockets in the benchtop today and I can tell you a few things:


Posted 3/29/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Things I hate: Gouging my own eyes out with a spoon, and being pulled away from a project for more than a couple days.


Posted 3/29/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The world needs more makers of new wooden handplanes, especially moulding planes. Vintage moulding planes can be testy in my experience. The narrow stocks can be twisted or bowed, the irons can be rusted to oblivion and many wedges need to be replaced.

If you read my article on Clark & Williams planemakers in the April 2010 issue, you probably concluded the same thing that I did: There are enough woodworkers out there to support another maker.


Posted 3/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Inlay scares the pants off of some woodworkers, especially when it comes to producing original designs with curves.

So I was quite intrigued when Geoffrey Noden showed off a prototype tool at the Woodworking in America conference at Valley Forge. Noden is a highly accomplished woodworker and the inventor of the Noden Adjust-A-Bench.

Noden's new tool, called the Noden Inlay Razor, is impossibly clever and shows off his deep understanding of raw materials, his desire for unlimited creativity and a passion for making things simple.


Posted 3/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

I have some bad news. Yesterday at the Showcase put on by the Northeastern Woodworkers Association, I fell in with the wrong sort of people – again.


Posted 3/24/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

This week I'm working with Marc Adams on a series of articles for Popular Woodworking Magazine on veneer. Marc did all the work – I'm just editing and helping with the photos.

I hope these articles will convince many woodworkers to start working with veneer. Marc's series will explain all the simple tools and processes necessary to get started (you probably own all the tools). And the series will provide inspiration. Some of the most beautiful furniture in the world is made


Posted 3/24/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Andrew Lunn at Eccentric Toolworks has resumed taking orders for his custom saws.

Let the whuppings and hand-wringing commence!

Last year Lunn stopped taking new orders so he could concentrate on eliminating his backlog of orders and figure out a pricing structure that would allow the former paramedic to make a living. This week, Lunn resumed taking orders and raised his base prices. A dovetail saw starts at $500.


Posted 3/23/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I'm sad to announce that the world has lost another good saw sharpener.

Steve Cooke, 61, of York, Pa., died on March 17. Cooke was the founder of Cooke's Sharpening Service, which specialized in sharpening all forms of edge tools. But Cooke had a special place in his heart for saws, and he had an impressive collection.


Posted 3/22/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

In the pre-industrial age, it was fairly common to have your workshop inside your home. In fact, in many early American houses, rooms served several purposes and could be converted to another function by rearranging the furniture.

These days, most of us have dedicated shops. We surveyed our readers in 2005 on this question and found that 96 percent had a dedicated workshop space. Of those of us with shops:

• 42 percent have a garage shop
• 32 percent have a separate outbuilding (that's not a garage)
• 28 percent have a basement shop
• 5 percent have one in an "other location"
• 2 percent use a spare room in the house.

Note that the numbers add up to more than 100 percent because there is some overlap here (a basement garage shop, for example).

Recently, however, I've been getting a fair number of e-mail from readers who are woodworking without a dedicated shop space. Their solutions to the problem are novel and would seem familiar to an 18th-century woodworker. Let's take a look.

The Kitchen Shop
Jameel Alsalam lives in a one-room basement apartment with his girlfriend in Washington, D.C., and figured out how to make a functional workbench that also doubled as a dining table.

The dining bench is made from three 4" x 10" x 8' slabs of poplar he got free from his uncle. And while the top was fairly straightforward, the base was tricky. It had to support his workpieces and still be able to allow chairs to scoot in all around.

His solution was to use two stretchers down the middle of the top instead of stretchers along the long edges of the benchtop. The stretchers are joined with mortise-and-tenon joints and bench bolts.

"The end result is a dining table burly enough for Vikings to eat at, and it's rock solid for planing," Alsalam writes. "I think keeping the top flush with the side is gonna be tricky, but the main goal is accomplished: I can do woodworking, and my girlfriend hasn't left me."

The other key to Alsalam's success with this set-up is that he uses only hand tools at home. When he needs power equipment, he heads to the local adult education center.

"One time I made the mistake of trying a power sander, and suddenly I was wiping the sawdust off everything in my house," he writes. With hand tools, all I have to sweep up the shavings (I'm lucky to have a tile floor)."

A Blog for the Shopless
Kenneth Woodruff lives in a condo in the San Francisco area that has no space for storage or a shop. So for a year, Woodruff researched the craft to figure out a way to make things work in his condo.

And as he's gotten cranked up, he's found there are a lot of people out there just like him. So he started a blog that documents his efforts called Rough Wood. Visit the blog at http://roughwood.kennethwoodruff.com.

"Many people around the web are clamoring for ways around some basic issues: a reasonable bench, boring accurate holes without a drill press, hand planing on a tiny surface, not using a router in a tiny apartment," he writes. "Being shopless instills a need to innovate and overcome challenges that are often not present when you have a garage full of tools – and a father who introduced you to woodworking at a young age."

Some of the projects are definitely worth investigating, including a knockdown workbench that lives underneath his bed. Now he's working on a tool cabinet that will look as good as a piece of furniture.

We're planning another survey of our readers real soon, but until that comes around, take this quick poll about your shop.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

The BigWoodVise.com web site says that ordering is temporarily closed. I chatted via e-mail with Joe Comunale at Big Wood Vise to get the story.

Here's the good news: It's only a temporary thing.

Comunale, who works in the automotive industry, said his day job kicked into high gear after some layoffs. As a result, he's been traveling a lot on short notice and hasn't been home to make the ash vise screws, which won a Best New Tool award from us in 2009 and was featured on the LVL Workbench shown above.

He said things should return to normal in a few months. In the meantime, he decided to close ordering so he could fill his existing orders before taking on new business. If you have a vise screw on order, he's working on it.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/18/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Several readers have asked about the sawhorses that my new benchtop is temporarily sitting on. We've had two pairs of these in the shop for about 14 years and featured them in a one-page article in the March 1997 issue of Popular Woodworking.

I scanned the page and you can download a pdf of the article here.

sawhorses.pdf (1.14 MB)

The sawhorses are quite handy. In their short form, they are 21" high, and are excellent for laying out cuts on rough lumber. We also assemble cabinets on them. They are a little high (for me) for handsawing. I want to lop 2" off the legs. That would be about right.

When you put the risers on them, they are 30"-high – just right for gluing up panels. We'll also put a door on top of them and use that as an assembly table or – in a pinch – as a dining table for a staff event.

There are a million plans out there for sawhorses. Here is #1,000,001.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/17/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Saws | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

All week I've been itching to saw these joints that connect the legs to the benchtop. I've never cut a 5"-deep dovetail joint in a 6x6, so I wasn't sure what to expect.

It was easy going until my enormous saw suddenly stopped cutting. Had the flesh-detecting technology in my tenon saw kicked in? (Ye Olde Saw Astyntan?) But I'm getting ahead of myself here.


Posted 3/16/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

I follow a lot of woodworking blogs and forums, but I'm more interested in getting the information and getting back to the shop than I am in staring at a computer screen until my eyeballs dry up and fall into my lap.

And that's why I have become a huge fan of the "Spoken Wood Podcast," the mastermind of Matt "The Podfather" Vanderlist.


Bookmark and Share

This October, Woodworking in America will be held in our back yard here in Cincinnati on Oct. 1-3. Registration will open in early May, and we'll start telling you all about the instructors and 80 sessions as soon as we get all the contracts signed.

But there is one aspect of planning this conference that I could use your help with. For this conference, we're planning some extra evening events. And I'd like some advice from you about which ones you think are most interesting.


Posted 3/15/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

From outside the confines of our shop, the fact that I'm building another workbench might be interpreted as a cry for psychological help. After all, I already have my fair share of workbenches.

But there are some good reasons that I'd like to share with you. And believe me when I say that the problem here isn't me, it's you.


Posted 3/12/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When I am deep into a sawcut, you could walk into the shop totally naked, on fire and covered with leprous monkeys, and I probably wouldn't notice.

Accurate sawing is tantric. It's a rhythm. It is meditation.


Posted 3/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Several weeks ago I was planing a piece of palm when my hand slipped, and a deep sliver of the nasty grass dove into the middle finger of my left hand.

I dug out as much of the splinter as I could. But now almost six weeks later, the foreign object (as my doctor calls it) is deep inside my soft tissue. I can wait things out, or I can see a hand surgeon (I'm a good waiter).

Wood can be nasty stuff. Rosewoods make my tongue swell up like a Ballpark Frank. Some species (redwood, especially) sting like crazy when I get a splinter. And spalted stuff can kill you dead.

But aren't you worried about what wood can do to your tools?


Posted 3/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I went looking during lunchtime for stuff to make my epoxy black. I struck out trying to find lamp black and black food coloring in our neighborhood. I guess our neighborhood just isn't chi-chi enough to support people who make their own tires or bake high-end cakes.

However, at our local art supply store, I found Gamblin "Mars Black" powder, a synthetic black iron oxide used to color both paint and construction materials. And I found some India ink.


Posted 3/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

On one of my early workbenches (the $175 Workbench), a split opened at one end of its benchtop a couple weeks after assembly. It was about 1/8" wide and a few inches long, but it might as well have cleaved the top in twain.

Everyone in the shop gave me a good mock – it was my first benchtop using Southern yellow pine. And I wanted to see if epoxy could – as my grandfather claimed – fix anything except overcooked swordfish.


Posted 3/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings
Bookmark and Share

Last week we offered free plans for the Skansen Bench I built for the April 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. If you didn't hear about this, it's likely because you don't subscribe to our free weekly newsletter. You can correct that oversight here.

In any case, this bench was tremendous fun to build. It was $22 in yellow pine from the home center and a couple evenings in the shop. The sucker is stout, has some nice curves and exposed joinery as well. Read the whole article and download the free pdf here.

So what's stopping you? The legs?


Posted 3/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

From the chicken vs. egg file: Many beginning woodworkers think you have to have a workbench in order to build a workbench. So they buy a cheap workbench and suffer with it for many years until they get around to building a "real" bench.

Truth is, you don't need a bench to build a bench.


Posted 3/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

I dislike writing about the magazine business because it's not useful for our readers, who expect us to write about woodworking instead of engaging in navel-gazing.

But because we have received a lot of questions and mail about the merger of Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine, I'm going to make an exception, lift up my shirt and take a quick peek.


Posted 3/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I'm to the point with this workbench that I cannot see the concrete floor any more because of the shavings. I hate that floor, but I am starting to feel a bit like a hamster.

Today I took the clamps off the Roubo benchtop we glued up Thursday and I scraped off the excess hide glue squeeze-out. The seam is tight. Nice.


Posted 3/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share
Whenever I visit the East Coast, I am jealous of the region's stock of vintage hand tools. The Midwest just cannot compete -- even though Cincinnati and Indianapolis were important manufacturing centers of edge tools and saws.

So if you are anywhere near Rhode Island this Saturday, I recommend you check out the Bill Spicer Auction, which starts at 10 a.m. at the Masonic Hall, 1515 Ten Rod Road in North Kingstown, RI. Don't come at 10 a.m. Come much earlier. That's when the tailgating happens.

Look for about 12 tool sellers at the tailgate such as Sanford Moss, Gordon Conrad and Patrick Leach (and maybe "the boy!"). Prices for user stuff are generally very reasonable during the tailgate.

Need directions or more information? Contact Bill Spicer Auctions.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/4/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

We glued up the benchtop for this Old-style Roubo bench today. Yeah, it looks ratty in the photo above, but the seam is tight. I even put in a little spring joint in the center of the joint – I was surprised I could close up the gap with just one of the parallel-jaw clamps.

In other words, we really didn't need many clamps.

But we did need extra glue.


Posted 3/4/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Some men seek solace in a bottle. Others in the arms of a woman. For me, when the world starts swirling around the proverbial bidet, I look to construction lumber.


Posted 3/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

The following is unfiltered, mostly unedited and likely unreadable. But this is what I do.

Today I launched headfirst into building this Roubo workbench. First up: Dress the legs. Well, the four legs look worse now than when I sawed them up. One leg looks OK from the front. On two legs, some checking has progressed to the point that I'm worried about their long-term life. The fourth leg is punky and is likely a loss.


Posted 3/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Since we first visited in May 2009, the staff of the magazine has witnessed some amazing progress in the restoration of the Meeting House at the White Water Shaker Village, which is west of our offices in Cincinnati.

As many of you know, we are trying to help a bit here, as well. We've completed reproductions of three furniture projects from the White Water collection, which we have donated to the nonprofit organization that is restoring the village.


Posted 3/2/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

A few weeks ago I posted a blog entry about using a flush-cut saw to slice tenon shoulders. I must have written it poorly because several readers requested a video of the process. So here you go.


Posted 3/2/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

One of the great mysteries of the hand tool world is how Roy Underhill never seems to get older. (Is there a cursed painting in your attic, Mr. Underhill?) The other great mystery is about the unbeveled faces of vintage irons in handplanes.

If you've even bought an old plane you know of what I speak. You take one look at the face of the iron (what some people call the "back"), and it looks like crap.


Posted 2/23/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

For me, ripping boards on low sawhorses is a quick trip to a sore back. It's a balancing act done while bending over and pushing hard. So I'm always on the lookout for ways to do the same work with less effort.

Some might call this "lazy." I prefer the term "American!"


Posted 2/22/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

For as long as I can remember I've had a helpful chart hanging above my desk that explains 32 common moulding profiles. Whenever I forgot what a "conge" looked like, I could glance up and instantly get the answer.


Posted 2/20/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I'm think I'm a decent dovetailer. My joints are tight and I get things done. Heck, I can even teach dovetailing to others when pressed.

So why don't I post a video of how quickly I can cut a dovetail joint? Because we'd likely run out of videotape.

Truth is, I think I'm a bit slow. When I was a wee lad my parents took me to a doctor because they thought I was, ahem, mentally challenged. Praise Jebus that I beat that rap. But yet, I admit I am still a bit slow with some things.


Posted 2/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Memo to Human Resources
Re: Throwing Axes by the Dumpster


Dear Sir or Madam,

As an employee of F+W Media Inc., I applaud the recent addition of yoga mats and treadmills to our exercise room. The sweet smell of sweat masks the odor of burned microwave popcorn and over-nuked fish from the adjacent cafeteria. And I think we could all use more exercise.

To that end, I propose we set up an axe-throwing range behind the dumpster near the Popular Woodworking Magazine shop. I will be happy to provide, at no charge, double-bitted axes, a stump target and training for the employees.


Bookmark and Share

QUESTION: Although I am not in the woodworking trades, my son is. And last year I offered to pay his tuition at Peter Follansbee's workshop in North Carolina on riven-oak wood boxes. I showed him all the purty pictures on Peter's blog chattering all the while about how cool is this? Boards are split, not sawn, the wood is green, blah blah blah.

He looked at me like I had a third eye in the middle of my head and said, "Are you F!@#$%^ crazy? Why would anyone do all that with hand tools when power tools are available?"


Posted 2/17/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I'm embroiled in building a Roubo-style workbench using massive slabs and hand tools. Actually, I'm embroiled in my head. I'm in Maine this week on business and quite anxious to get back to Cincinnati and my awaiting hunks of punky cherry.

In the meantime, I have an interesting bench design to share with you that was built using only hand tools and some unique ideas that are well worth considering – just in case some of you are thinking about going down the same path as I have.


Posted 2/16/2010 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

With a few hours to kill in Maine this afternoon I tool a long-overdue side trip to Liberty Tool Co. in Liberty, Maine. While the state of Maine in general has more than its share of vintage tools, Liberty Tool Co. is supposed to be the mother ship of steel, rosewood and cast iron.


Posted 2/15/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

One of my first handplanes, a Stanley No. 5, had a shopmade tote that was all kinds of wrong. Wrong shape, wrong wood, wrongly made.

So as soon as I could, I bought a replacement front knob and tote. These also were all kinds of wrong. Wrong wood, wrong glossy finish, wrong high knob. But the tote was the right shape, so I kept it on the tool for the last decade or so.

Today I put on a vintage rosewood tote and the original low knob on the plane and went to work raising some drawer bottoms. I have no idea if the tote is of the correct vintage (nor do I particularly care), but it sure looks and feels right to me.

So thanks to Carl Bilderback, who sent me the tote after seeing my flashy one (and probably rolling his eyes).

— Christopher Schwarz


Bookmark and Share

There are still some spots open in the woodworking classes I’m teaching this winter. If you’ve recently come into a little money (thank you First National Bank of the Plasma) and have a little time available, here are some details on these classes.


Posted 2/12/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

"I know what you're thinking, punk. You're thinking "did he fire six shots or only five?" Now to tell you the truth I forgot myself in all this excitement. But being this is a .44 Magnum, the most powerful handgun in the world and will blow you head clean off, you've gotta ask yourself a question: "Do I feel lucky?" Well, do ya, punk?"

— Harry Callahan, "Dirty Harry" (1971)


I'm taking off on Sunday for a week-long trip for work and really wanted to get this Old-school Roubo workbench project underway. While the air-dried cherry stock is surprisingly dry, I still wanted to cut the legs to length so they will (I hope) finish drying while I'm away.


Bookmark and Share

Roy Underhill has asked me to appear on "The Woodwright's Shop" during the show's upcoming 30th season. (Note to self: You can now stop squealing like a little girl.)

Between now and the time we tape the show sometime this summer or fall, there's lots I have to do to prepare. Shave my back, attempt to stop looking like a frightened lab animal while appearing on television and – oh yes – decide on something to talk about.


Posted 2/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

If you're parsimonious, tardy or just plain wary, then this post is for you.

My book "Handplane Essentials" is now on sale for the first time since its release this summer. Until Feb. 15, you can get "Handplane Essentials" for 20 percent off, plus free shipping in the United States. The book is normally $34.99. With the discount, it's $27.99 plus free domestic shipping.

To get the discount, all you have to do is enter the coupon code: PW10LUV at checkout.


Posted 2/10/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Years ago Don McConnell (now with Clark & Williams plane makers) shamed me into sharpening my own saws.

He was down for a photo shoot and I mentioned that I had sent a saw out to be sharpened with some odd filing. Don stopped whatever it was he was doing and looked up at me.

"I can't believe you don't sharpen your own saws."


Posted 2/9/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I've always wanted to build a Roubo workbench "by the book." Use a massive single plank for the top, tree trunks for legs and all the traditional joinery, such as the through-dovetail-and-tenon joint that marries the legs to the top.


Posted 2/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

If I'd lived in the the early 18th century, odds are I'd be rotting by now. Life expectancy in England in 1700 was about 37, according to the National Bureau of Economic Research. By 1820 it was 41, which is how old I am today.

So it should come as no surprise that though I adore my 18th-century workbench, there are times that it is more suited for a younger man. If I dovetail an entire chest of drawers, I pay for it in the back department – I'm stiff for a week.


Posted 2/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

What's this? It's a lovely mountain scene that would make Bob Ross proud. Happy little trees. Oh look, the big gymnosperm is reflected in the water. I can almost taste the wood smoke and feel the cold nip of the mountain air blowing off the snow-capped peaks.

But what is this doing in my e-mail's inbox? Why, it's from eBay. But I didn't set up a search for oil paintings.


Posted 2/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Holding a "most pathetic workbench" contest is like holding a competition for the "most unusual burro act." Yes, you think in your sick little mind that you are ready for the worst. But really, you're an amateur in the equus depravity department.

When we held our workbench contest in March 2009, I was flabbergasted by the entries. I used to build furniture on top of two pine blocks on our back porch in Lexington, Ky. Little did I know that I had it real good back then. Don't believe me? Click here


Posted 2/3/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Perhaps I'm the oddball here, but I've always found cutting tenons by hand to be more challenging than any sort of dovetailing.

Tenons require a lot of precision sawing if you want to avoid farting around with a shoulder plane, chisel or float. And teaching others to cut perfect shoulders is a challenge. I usually show them Robert Wearing's trick called a "first-class sawcut." Basically, you create a quick V-groove at the shoulder line and drop the saw into that.


Bookmark and Share

"A craftsman is one who understands his tools and uses them with skill and honesty. It does not matter whether his tool is a chisel or a planing machine, it is the work that he does with it that counts and you today can be as good a workman in the carpenter's craft as any who ever lived if you will learn to know your tools and to use them well."

— Thomas E. Hibben


When it comes to learning woodworking, sometimes it's nice to treat yourself like a child.

While researching old tool chests for a future project I kept stumbling over a book in people's bibliographies: "The Carpenter's Tool Chest" (J.B. Lippincott) by Thomas Hibben. On a lark, I picked up a copy last week, even though it kept showing up as a piece of non-fiction for juveniles.

The book is indeed for children. The Junior Literary Guild recommended it for boys and girls age 9 to 11 when the book came out in 1933. But as soon as I opened the book I was sucked into it and spent the weekend devouring its contents.

"The Carpenter's Tool Chest" is designed to introduce children to the world of hand work, and Hibben explains exactly what each tool is used for in simple terms. But what really hooked me was the way that Hibben explained the craft and tool development from pre-history to the early 20th century.

The book opens with a series of delightful plates that trace the history of each form of tool from its earliest known forms to the modern day. The simple hand illustrations by Hibben (his father was an artist) are obviously based on photos and illustrations from earlier works. You'll see Andre Roubo's try square in there as well as some familiar pieces that are obviously from Joseph Moxon, plus some that are taken from works of art.

And though there is no bibliography to the book that will allow you to track down all his sources, the plates are still great fun to look at. His two plates on saws show the parallel development of frame saws and our English/Dutch-style saws, and how both Eastern and Western cultures used both forms of saws. The evolution of the hammer and gouge are also particularly interesting.

After illustrating and explaining the functions of all the tools, he takes a stroll through history that starts in the Stone Age and explains the woodworking tools that were in use then. Then he walks through the Bronze Age, Iron Age, Middle Ages and Renaissance. There are hundreds of illustrations and fun facts (such as why the use of adhesives were banned by governments for a time in the Middle Ages).

Woodworking scholars will discount this book because of some of its notable errors – he calls a marking gauge a "measuring gauge," and his drawing of an eggbeater drill shows a tool that would work only in M.C. Escher's dimension. And new scholarship would poke some holes in his timeline.

But still, what a cool book. The original is beautifully printed on nice heavy stock. It's great fun to read. And it puts our craft in a historical perspective that I think a lot of us don't think much about. The history of humanity and wood are as intertwined as the kudzu that tangles the farms of the South.

Hibben himself is an interesting character (read more about him at the Bear Alley blog). Born in Indianapolis, he studied architecture and engineering and had a fascinating life overseas until he was cut down by a heart attack.

I won't say this book is a must-read tome for woodworkers, but if you stumble across a copy in a used bookstore, it's definitely worth picking up. My copy is going into the hands of my 8-year-old daughter.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/1/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share


Wood Whisperer Guild's 'Best of 2009' DVD

Members of Marc Spagnuolo's online woodworking club – The Wood Whisperer Guild – get access to tons of how-to videos when they join the Guild. But because so much information is free on the Internet, I'm sure many woodworkers are wondering if the Guild is worth the $129 yearly fee.

Now Spagnuolo is offering a two-DVD set that features 5-1/2 hours of the best Guild videos from 2009. This DVD is now available for pre-order at a 10 percent discount – $44.99 plus shipping.


Posted 2/1/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

In college I had a girlfriend who was half Japanese, half German and entirely unpredictable. And for a kid raised in Arkansas, she was quite the exotic Axis-power antidote to my small-town upbringing.

My grandmother flipped her wig when I brought the girlfriend to the Natural State for a visit (mission accomplished). I was exposed to food and culture that opened my eyes to the larger world. Her dad was a Zen Buddhism professor, their home was filled with Asian ink paintings and they ate all manner of foods that were new to me: sashimi, Ethiopian, Northern Indian, Middle Eastern, and stuffed Chicago pizza.


Posted 1/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Shaping
Bookmark and Share

I like city life. Nothing pleases me more than walking the streets of old cities, ducking down the alleyways of Charleston, S.C., stumbling unexpectedly into the squares of Savannah, Ga., or just absorbing the 19th-century vibe of German Village in Columbus, Ohio.

In fact, I've often thought that my entire life has been an effort to distance myself from our primitive and isolated farm in Hackett, Ark.


Bookmark and Share

Expanded and detailed plans for the Roubo Try Square from the February 2010 issue are now for sale as a download in our store.

The plans include the original two-page article published in the February 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking, plus another six pages of detailed step-by-step instructions on the construction and truing process. There's also a page of the three critical full-size details (the moulding shapes on the ends and the profile of the stock). And a detailed SketchUp file. The price is $4.99.

If you have the February issue and are an intermediate woodworker, you have everything you need to build the try square, which I scaled directly off Andre Roubo's plates with the assistance of a translation of the 18th-century text.

However, every time we publish a project, our customers ask if there are plans with more details available for purchase. We decided to use this project as an experiment. So I took an extra two days to completely flesh out the construction and truing process in minute detail. Art Director Linda Watts took a day to design the package like a story in the magazine.

To read more about the plans, visit our store.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/28/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Years ago I got a phone call from planemaker Larry Williams that changed the way I look at long planes.

"Do you have the book 'American Furniture of the 18th Century?'" he asked.

I sure did. I had rescued a damaged one that my company was throwing away back in 1996 when the book came out. It's still marked "cut" – the mark for the dumpster.

Larry continued: "Turn to page 118. What do you see?"


Bookmark and Share

This blog post is long overdue.

Late last year I purchased volumes 1-60 of "The Chronicle" on DVD from the Early American Industries Association, of which I am a card-carrying member. "The Chronicle" is the association's quarterly journal, and if you love traditional tools and history, then this DVD is like a giant black hole of your free time.


Posted 1/25/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

My next project is a close copy of a walnut side table from the White Water Shaker community. We'll be publishing the plans in an upcoming issue and donating the finished project to the nonprofit group of volunteers who are restoring the amazingly intact Shaker buildings.

I spent a summer afternoon measuring the project and just staring at it. The more I looked at it, the more it puzzled me.


Posted 1/22/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I've taught woodworking in places where the best available bench was the floor. And the best available vise was my wholly inadequate buttocks.


Posted 1/22/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

The longer I'm a woodworker, the less I like systems of measurement. Whether you're a machinist who works in metric, an imperious advocate of imperial, or a Bob who measures in "bobs," there is one thing that is true about all these systems: They invite error.

When you add, subtract, multiply or divide these measurements, you are doomed to make a mistake. We transpose numbers. We "burn an inch" when we use a tape measure by reading on the wrong side of the line. And we simply back ourselves into a difficult corner when we need to divide the face of a board into five equal spaces with 1/8" between each space.


Bookmark and Share

Matt Vanderlist, a pioneering blogger, podcaster and advocate for the stretchy pants industry, has launched a new podcast called "The Spoken Wood" that I think deserves some space on your iPod.

Here's the idea: Take one part of the NPR program "This American Life," mix in some of the country's woodworking bloggers and make it free for everyone. Vanderlist has enlisted several woodworking bloggers, including Kari Hultman of The Village Carpenter, Tom Iovino of Tom's Workbench and me to contribute.


Posted 1/20/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Several readers have encouraged me to take a look at the OXO 16" folding ruler, which is an inexpensive aluminum recreation of the classic 19th-century folding ruler.

I picked one up at Staples for $6.99 and have been fiddling with it to determine if it's the second coming or just a second-string tool for the shop.


Posted 1/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

We're hard at work this month planning the 2010 Woodworking in America conference, which is scheduled for Oct. 1-3 in the Cincinnati, Ohio, area.

Because this conference will be in our backyard, we're excited to show off the Queen City a bit, and we know we can make this the best conference yet. There are lots of events we're toying with now: tours of the unrestored White Water Shaker Village, bourbon tastings, an evening at the magazine's shop and the list goes on and on.


Posted 1/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

This thing is a work of art, and if you have an extra $375 it can be yours. Sadly, I have already sold my share of plasma this month or I'd buy it myself.

What's really cool about the saw is that you tension the blade by turning the knob at the end of the handle – just like the marquetry saw shown in Andre Roubo's book. Visit Jim Bode's web site at JimBodeTools.com to see more photos and to buy it. Sniff.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/19/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Ripping boards by hand is a lot like working. And so I'm always looking for different techniques (other than buying a Bowflex machine and steroids) to do it with less effort.


Posted 1/15/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Saws
Bookmark and Share
Dovetail maestro Rob Cosman again makes us all feel inadequate with his latest video in which he cuts a half-blind dovetail joint in 6 minutes and 52 seconds.

Cosman uses Northern white pine, which you might think is cheating – he can cut the tail in one stroke. However, his pins are so skinny (just a saw kerf) that the joint is actually more difficult to do in pine because the wood is fragile.

Also worth noting: Cosman uses his new dovetail saw in this video, which I am reviewing in the April 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. It's an interesting saw on many counts. The teeth at the toe are filed fine to make the saw easy to start. The saw has a very heavy brass back. And the handle is made from Swanstone, a synthetic solid-surface material. I can't say much more – I don't want to give it away.

The video above is definitely worth the watch.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/14/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

My search for a coping saw that will hold its blade setting is starting to feel a little like an episode of "In Search of..." with Leonard Nimoy. The solution might be as elusive as the Louisiana swamp monster.

This morning I restored a Millers Falls coping saw that uses a locking mechanism that was patented Nov. 10, 1908 (saw nerds can click here). Tool collector and woodworker John Walkowiak turned me onto this form and I picked one up on eBay for almost nothing.


Posted 1/12/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

My co-workers branded me with a nickname in the 1990s after I took apart our shop's Bosch plunge router and replaced the brushes on its commutator.

After reassembling the Bosch and putting it back in the tool cabinet, I returned to my desk for an exciting day of editing comma errors. The next day a fellow editor grabbed the Bosch. When he pulled the trigger, a shower of sparks (and he claims, flames) spit from the router's vents.


Posted 1/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

When I teach anything – writing, woodworking, how to play the armpit flute – I always feel like I'm faking it. I know my source material quite well, but communicating it so it sticks in your head and inspires you to improve your skills is difficult.

I was reminded of this last year when I taught a class on handplanes here in our shop at the magazine. Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick offered to assist me that Saturday, and as we were packing things up at the end of the class, someone asked Megan something about dovetails.


Posted 1/11/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Lots of readers have asked what the new magazine will look like when it hits the newsstands in April 2010. Art director Linda Watts has been working hard on the design, and we have been tweaking our project selection.

We think you'll be pleased.

Earlier I posted some thumbnails of some of the layouts, such as the one above, but now we're ready to take the veil off our cover project for the next issue. Download the pdf below to take a gander.

— Christopher Schwarz

NEW_PWM.pdf (1.08 MB)


Posted 1/8/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Here in America we will put a motor on just about anything. Picnic tables. Ice cream cones. Scissors.

And yet, it was still a surprise when I stumbled on a motorized coping saw for sale on eBay. And no thanks to the two beers inside me at the time, I ended up buying the saw. It arrived yesterday. It is a curious creature.


Posted 1/6/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Of all the power tools I own, I think my scariest, oops-I-crapped-my-pants moments have been with a power miter saw.

When knocking down rough stock, miter saws have a tendency to "armadillo" – or leap straight out of the cut, sometimes kicking your work around. This happens when the stock pinches on the blade, which can occur for a variety of reasons (some of which are impossible to control).


Posted 1/6/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Before you buy one of the FatMax coping saws that I praised this week, take note. Take apart the saw and examine the blade connectors before you plunk down the $10.


Posted 1/5/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

We've just received our shipment of our newest DVD: "Handplane Basics: A Better Way to Use Bench Planes." And despite my needing a haircut when we filmed it, I'm pleased with the result.

Check out the trailer above for a quick preview. (Yes, there is banjo music.)


Posted 1/4/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I never knew how lame my cordless Skil drill was until I used a Makita. With a clutch. And the distinct absence of flames. So these last few weeks I've become frustrated and obsessed (frusessed?) with my coping saws – their blades just don't hold their angle.

Luckily, there are already a lot of patented mechanisms out there (patents that have long expired, by the way), plus lots of antique examples of coping saws that have blades that really lock tight.


Posted 1/1/2010 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

During my first story on coping saws this week I lamented it was difficult to trace its genealogy. And I cussed the modern form.

Thanks to some readers, I have some more leads on the history of the coping saw (coming soon), and a new coping saw from Stanley that locks down pretty damn good. It's not perfect, but I can help you get it working better than the other junk on the market.


Posted 12/31/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

My mailbox is now filled with more than 150 messages about the merger of Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine that we announced on the blog. I am trying to answer every message, but until I can, here are some answers to some of the common questions:


Posted 12/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I'm a mediocre guitar player. But because I'm a fair judge of craftsmanship, I have an immense respect for real-deal lutherie.

Have you seen one of Jameel Abraham's ouds in person? They walk that fine line between something that looks and feels both handmade and perfect. On the other side of the equation are musical instruments that are neither, such as my Gibson OP25 acoustic guitar.


Posted 12/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Starting with the April 2010 issue, we will merge Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine into one publication that features thicker and larger paper, a new design, and strong writing from a stable of world-class woodworkers – plus the same staff of editors you have come to trust.

The new magazine will be called Popular Woodworking Magazine and it will be published seven times a year. If you are a subscriber to both, or to Woodworking Magazine only, a cover wrap will explain how this change affects your subscription. The April 2010 issue mails to subscribers at the end of February and will be on newsstands everywhere in March.

Why are we doing this? First let me tell you what isn't happening here. To a cynic this might look like a desperate act to stay in business. It's not. Both of these woodworking magazines have posted solid profits year after year and are some of the best-performing publications for our parent company. That is the honest truth. While many of my friends in the media business have been furloughed or laid off in the last year, I'm not particularly worried about my job (knock wood).

So what gives? Well, the staff decided to merge these two magazines because we think we need to change the way we do business so we can grow and serve the woodworking community for many years ahead. In short, we are going to branch out even more into the Internet, DVDs, podcasts, social media and book publishing.

While the magazine is still the heart of this business – I do believe my veins are filled with ink and sawdust – we need to adapt to grow.

What are we changing? Like I said above, we're going to print the new magazine on thicker, brighter and larger paper. Plus we've redesigned the magazine in a way that blends the nice color photography of Popular Woodworking with the understated look of Woodworking Magazine.

The changes, however, aren't only skin-deep. We're taking your favorite authors from Popular Woodworking – Adam Cherubini, George R. Walker, Bob Flexner, Michael Dunbar and David Charlesworth to name a few – and adding them to the no-crap, conventional-wisdom-be-damned  reporting in Woodworking Magazine. You'll also see even more content online – from articles to blogs to video – and how the Internet content enriches and deepens the woodworking knowledge printed in the magazine. In short, every story in the printed magazine will have online content that allows you to dive deep into the aspects of woodworking that interest you.

I'm not going to kid you – some changes might unsettle you at first. Woodworking Magazine readers might be shocked to see some ads and color photos. Popular Woodworking readers might stumble when they encounter our willingness to venture into unexplored areas of the craft.

But rest assured, I think you'll like the result. This magazine is put out by exactly the same staff that produced both Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking. There have been no staff changes or reductions. I'm still the editor. Steve, Glen, Bob, Megan, Linda and Drew are all sitting at the same desks and doing their damndest to inform you about the craft.

So when the April issue arrives, take a close look. We have lots of interesting stories planned this year. (I can't go into too much detail here because this is a competitive business.) And after you've read the issue, let us know what you think about the changes. We're easy to get in touch with – our direct phone numbers and e-mail addresses are in every issue.

When it comes down to it, we're just passionate woodworkers who want to continue writing, building and reading about woodworking for the rest of our lives. And with your support, we'll all get to do that until they scrap the printing presses for good.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/27/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

The coping saw is generally unloved, unheralded and under-appreciated. Yet as far as I'm concerned, I wouldn't enjoy woodworking as much without one.

When I started woodworking about age 11, my father forbade me from using machinery. So the only two saws I had were a panel saw with a blue plastic handle (which would not cut a limp biscuit), and a Craftsman coping saw, which I own and use to this day.

I've used that tool for everything (perhaps things I shouldn't: game, deli meats). And as a result I am attached to the form.


Posted 12/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

There is great debate among the Saw Nerds (I'm a card-carrying member) about when the backsaw came into this world, kicking and screaming and whipping its lamb's tongue to and fro.

Historic documents have been read. Great thoughts have been thinked. The Internet was clicked many times.

But what gets little attention is actually why the backsaw was ever developed.

In the mind of veteran carpenter and tool collector Carl Bilderback, you don't need a backsaw.

"You can cut any joint you want with a 16" panel saw," he said. "It's more than stiff enough for the job. So why do we have backsaws?"

Bilderback didn't have the answer to that rhetorical questions, but he did offer up some other thoughts. The late Cecil Pierce cut his dovetails (beautifully by the way) with a hacksaw. You can read all about that in his short book "The Precision Handcutting of Dovetails" from Astragal Press. And the book "Modern Practical Joinery" by George Ellis shows experienced joiners cutting tenons with handsaws. "Look ma, no back."

"Why do we even have $200 dovetail saws to do something you can do with a $15 hacksaw from Ace Hardware?" Bilderback asks.

Bilderback has cut lots of joints with a panel saw and recommends that if you want to try it yourself that you use a saw with little or no set.

This afternoon I gave it a try and cut dovetails with a crosscut panel saw. I was laughing the whole time I did it because it was extremely easy to switch from a backsaw to a panel saw. The tool leaves a big kerf in its wake, but that actually made it easy for the coping saw to drop in there to remove the waste.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share
We're having some blog problems right now. Posts and comments are disappearing. This is technical, not a conspiracy (at least not one that I'm in on). I apologize for the problem and hope we'll have it cleared up soon.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

I have been called a tool dweeb (and that's by people who like me), but I take issue with that assessment. In truth, I have far more books than tools (unless you count every drill bit and cut nail).

At home I have a whole wall of woodworking books in my study. In my office at the magazine, I have three bookcases filled with books, tools, magazines and books. And the basement has several boxes of woodworking books that I don't really use all the time but can't seem to part with.

Recently I was able to dispose of all my old Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine issues by installing them all on my laptop from our annual CDs.

Which made more room for books.

Just about every week, someone asks me for an inventory of my library. Some day I will do that, but it might prove alarming. Until that day, here is a list of the books that I have within 36" of my chair at work. These are the books that I refer to all the time, or I'm reading right now to determine if they belong in my permanent collection.

The file below is a spreadsheet of the title, author, publisher and a line about what I think about the book.

— Christopher Schwarz

BooksAtWork.xls (40.5 KB)


Posted 12/21/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Boring | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

My sister-in-law killed her college landlord with a voodoo doll, so don't try tell me that curses don't exist.

The curse du jour is an innocent flat-panel door I'm building for a wall-hung cabinet. It couldn't be a simpler piece of work. It's a single panel of cherry with two battens on the backside that are nailed and clinched.


Bookmark and Share

Shooting the photo for the cover of a magazine is as unpredictable as my second girlfriend, Kym Harper.


Posted 12/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Every time I bend over in the shop, I feel like I'm being just a little disemboweled.

By that, I means that all the important stuff – 6" rule, pencil, tape measure, small square – goes spilling onto the floor. And I get the nastiest knot in my stomach when I see all these expensive and easily damaged items crash to the concrete floor.


Posted 12/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

After years of development, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks is planning on making a No. 51 chute-board plane that should be released in the first quarter of 2010, Thomas Lie-Nielsen says.


Posted 12/15/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

At long last, Roy Underhill has launched his new web site with a complete list of classes and online registration for his school in Pittsboro, N.C.

If you were shut out of his classes next year, stop reading my drivel and get your hinder over there. Last year some classes filled up within minutes. The web site is http://www.woodwrightschool.com.


Posted 12/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Don't let anyone tell you that saws are just a hunk of wood plus a sheet of steel. The more that I work with different saws, the less I know about the tools.

Saws are a remarkable combination of materials and geometry. On the materials side of the equation, you can vary the weight, the balance and the amount of effort required to push the tool. On the geometry side of things, you can change the "hang" of the saw (which is basically the thrust pattern), and the aggressiveness of the teeth.

And you can vary all these characteristics almost infinitely.


Posted 12/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Some Japanese saws don't play nice with Western hardwoods.

More than a decade ago, my wife bought me a nice Japanese dozuki that cost about $100, a fortune for us at the time. I took it to the shop and started cutting some dovetails for a Stickley mantle clock I was building. The wood was white oak.


Posted 12/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

From the "I need three hands" file: Sometimes when you scribe a line on a board with the guidance of a try square you need one hand to hold the knife, one hand to press the blade down against the work and a third hand to hold the square's handle up and against the edge of the board.


Posted 12/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When I built my French workbench five years ago I had two choices for the vise screws: steel screws from China or steel screws from Eastern Europe.

The choices today are far better, with steel and wood screws available from several continents. The newest entry into the market is from Lake Erie Toolworks in Erie, Penn. Run by Nick Dombrowski, this company makes maple vise screws that have details that I quite like. Dombrowski sent us a kit, and I looked it over this week.

It's real nice. How nice? It makes me want to build another bench. (Sorry Lucy.)


Posted 12/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Starting on Friday, we're going to be sending out occasional special coupon codes for books, DVDs and CDs via Twitter, the micro-blogging service that all the kids are using (except, strangely, my kids).

So here's a heads-up: If you start following us on Twitter before Friday, you'll be certain to get the first discount code, which will be for an additional $3 off our new "Handplane Basics" DVD. So your final price will be $16.95 instead of the retail of $24.95.

And here's a Twitter promise: You'll never get a Tweet from us about what we had for lunch, what Glen is wearing (an orange sweatshirt, today) or any other banal personal grooming habits.

Instead, we use our Twitter feed judiciously. We send out Tweets when we've posted new (free) content on our blogs and our web sites. That's good, right? We also Tweet when something cool comes into the shop, such as a cool person (Jim Tolpin just ate a jelly doughnut) or a cool tool (can you say "Holtey?").

And now we'll also be using Twitter to send out coupon codes for our store that will apply to new products, such as this DVD, or to things we are closing out and have a limited supply of.

So follow us. Visit Twitter to set up a free account. And visit our Twitter page here.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

One of my favorite advertisements shows a guy with a handsaw staring at chair that has legs that are about 4" long. In his efforts to stop the chair from wobbling, he kept cutting down the legs until they would look about right if they were attached to an opossum.

(The ad is a complete failure, however, because I cannot for the life of me remember what they were selling.)

In any case, I was taught years ago a method of leveling legs that hasn't let me down. Today I had to level the legs of the next "I Can Do That" project I built for the April 2010 issue of Popular Woodworking. It's a rustic Swedish bench from the Skansen living history museum in Stockholm.


Posted 12/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Legendary English craftsman Alan Peters used a Stanley No. 7 for every bench plane operation.

David Charlesworth uses a No. 5-1/2.

Joseph Moxon says you need a fore, jointer and smoothing planes.

And many woodworkers use just a bevel-up jack plane.

After years of teaching hundreds of people to use bench planes and answering thousands (yes thousands) of e-mails, phone calls and questions from woodworkers, I became convinced that the more you read about bench planes, the more confused you'll get.

So a few years ago I began to rethink the Western bench plane system. Not to develop some idiosyncratic new way of using them – that wouldn't be helpful. Instead I set out to explain the bench plane system in a way that embraces historical approaches, explains all the modern ones and gives you the power to adapt your existing set of planes to your work.

The key to all this was to stop focusing so much on the size of the plane and to focus far more attention to how it is sharpened and set up.

This DVD "Handplane Basics - A Better Way to Use Bench Planes" is the result of all that work. Over the course of a month, Drew DePenning, Megan Fitzpatrick and I boiled down this approach in a 70-minute DVD that:

1. Explains the bench plane system so you can immediately understand the proper use of everything from a "scrub plane" to a "panel plane" to a "fore plane."

2. Shows you how to sharpen, set up and use the three planes you need to process rough lumber into gleaming boards.

3. Explains and demonstrates how to four-square your lumber. I take a rough board and show exactly how to deal with its faces edges and ends so you get a project part that is flat, square and good-looking.

I'm quite proud of this DVD, from the content itself, to Megan's direction to Drew's filming and editing. The DVD is being pressed as we speak and should be shipping withing four weeks. If you pre-order the DVD, you will get it for $19.95 – that's 20-percent off the $24.95 retail price. This sale ends on Dec. 31, 2009.

You can read more about the DVD or order a copy from our store.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/3/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Boring | Handplanes | Personal Favorites | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Today most of the magazine's staff spent the day with Ron Herman, a seventh-generation housewright in Columbus, Ohio, who has spent the last 29 years building, remodeling and restoring homes and historic sites – in many cases using only traditional tools.

His small shop north of the city is one of the wonders of the Western world. Amongst the machinery (much of it converted from a line-shaft system) are more hand tools than your eye can possibly take in. If this were a tool collection, it would be stupendous. The fact that Herman sets up all these tools and uses them is mind-blowing.

Herman spoke on handsaws at out last Woodworking in America Conference. But he knows about a lot more than saws.

I'm still trying to process all my notes and photos for a future article. Herman can talk. And his shop is a feast for the camera. In the meantime, I've pulled out a few good quotes from my notebook and some of the photos I took during our visit.


Posted 12/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Hi. I'm a long-time reader and a first-time caller. I really want to start using handplanes in my work. I've been looking at some of the premium handplanes from Veritas and Lie-Nielsen and wow! I can't afford that. Could you tell me where I could get some planes that are just as good as those but cost far less?

— B. Ginner, Poor, Tenn.


Mr. Ginner,

Thanks for your letter. Those planes are available at the same store that sells unicorns that fart cupcakes.

Sincerely, A Grumpy Editor


Posted 11/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

A Kentucky sideboard by Warren May from the February 2003 issue of Popular Woodworking.

About seven years ago I spent a couple days with Warren May, an accomplished cabinetmaker and dulcimer builder in Berea, Ky., to photograph some of his work for some projects in Popular Woodworking.

The first day I was there we went to Denny's for lunch, and May spent more than an hour talking about Kentucky furniture (and his dislike for Shaker furniture, which should be another blog entry some day).


Posted 11/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Recently I stumbled on an 1834 tool catalog from Holtzapffel & Co. in London that describes every tool a 19th-century woodworker could ever want, from planes to wrenches to chisels to tools I've never seen (brass straightedges, Water of Ayr sharpening stones, crow irons).

Naturally, there is a section on workbenches. Of course, I've pored over it. And I am intrigued and a little bewildered a bit by some of its details.


Posted 11/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings
Bookmark and Share

You can download a deluxe SketchUp drawing of the Schoolbox, a project that was featured on the cover of the Autumn 2009 issue.

This file was made by Randall Wilkins, a set designer in the film industry who uses SketchUp in his job and in his woodworking hobby. This file is extremely cool. Here are some details.


Posted 11/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Marking gauges have all manner of ways for you to lock the head to the beam, but most involve a screw or wedge mechanism. I think the coolest method I've ever seen is a cam-lock on the vintage Star Tools gauge.

The head locks on the beam by twisting the head (or beam). It locks quite well, and without things shifting around like on some cheap gauges. Both the beam and the head look to my eye to have a fairly complex shape to create this interlock.

Boy was I wrong.


Posted 11/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

We've added a wish list function to our store, which allows you to select products you would like to have and share the list without having to drop odd hints, such as leaving photos of author Ron Hock in the bathroom.

And if you fill out a wish list by Nov. 30, you will be entered in a drawing in which we'll select two lucky people who will win everything on their wish lists – up to $500. The winners will be announced in our Weekly Wood News newsletter.

If you want to get started, just click here.


Posted 11/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

It's deer season here in Northern Kentucky. That means I have to wait in line at the butcher's shop next to camouflaged hunters waiting to get their deer "processed" into deer goetta and deer sausage.

It's also "Meagan Bench" season. Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick recently completed her workbench using laminated veneer lumber, which is on the cover of the November 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking. And yesterday, reader Meagan Kilrain sent me photos of her new workbench.


Posted 11/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Boring
Bookmark and Share

I like corded drills – as long as it's an umbilical cord.

Actually, I do like my Makita corded drill for some things (mixing paint, for example). And I do like to use a corded drill when I have a heap of screws to drill and drive. But for most of my onesie-twosie jobs, I much prefer the meat-powered varieties of drills.

Now some beginning woodworkers get confused about what each boring instrument is used for. And, like people who buy a No. 1 plane all the way up to a No. 8 plane, they think you need all the tools to do good work. Not so.


Posted 11/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Mark Harrell of Bad Axe Tool Works just launched his new website this week. And in addition to pretty pictures of his new Bad Axe saws and details of his saw restoration and sharpening services, Harrell does the hand world a solid by offering free tutorials on how he restores vintage saws.

There are stories on removing rust, unlocking a frozen sawnut, restoring a handle (that one is particularly excellent) and even how to pack a saw to ship it.

We're all big fans of Bad Axe here (just read this review), and in case you are just tuning in to this blog, Harrell also offers speed and reasonable resharpening and restoration services. If you have a rusty saw, start the restoration using Harrell's instructions. Then send it to him for sharpening. A sharp saw is a revelation.

Check out the new site at badaxetoolworks.com.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 11/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels
Bookmark and Share

Sometimes I feel a tad guilty for owning tools from Veritas, Lie-Nielsen and Blue Spruce. But then I pick up my very first chisel and I get over it.

I've had that chisel since I graduated from college -- it's a 1/2" chisel I bought at WalMart and is branded Popular Mechanics (is that an example of irony? I can't tell. I'm American).


Posted 11/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

At the risk of enraging the powerful pen-turning cabal, I gotta say that I've never been enthralled by making pens or bottle stoppers on my lathe.

Life would be easier if I did embrace my mini-lathe, especially at Christmas. Instead I end up building furniture for the people I love. One year I made cutting boards with a Spirograph-like router design. Other years I've built Shaker boxes (too many to count).


Posted 11/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Boring | Reader Questions
Bookmark and Share

Reader Aaron Cashion writes:

"Watched your DVD about drawboring today after reading your 'Workbenches' book. Really enjoyed both. I had never heard of drawboring, and this will defintely be going into my arsenal. Where can I get a good eggbeater style hand drill? Are there new quality ones being made or should I go the eBay route and look for a vintage one? I prefer to buy quality and not some Asian import for $4.99."

Ah Aaron, I relish opening this can of oligochaetes.


Posted 11/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

This year I tried to keep my teaching and traveling schedule fairly light so I could spend more time tinkering with our magazines, assembling books such as "Handplane Essentials" and hanging out with my wife and two girls.

For 2010, my failings as a spouse, parent and diligent editor are your gain.


Posted 11/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Ever since I saw George Walker's DVD on furniture design and his lecture at Woodworking in America, I've been trying out some of his ideas on pieces of furniture that I know and love. With a pair of dividers (and sometimes a beer) I've been walking around the drawings and thinking about shapes, proportions and punctuation.


Posted 11/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Making a workbench that is both massive and mobile is no small feat. Most of the approaches I have seen have one of the following complications:

1. The mobile base is outboard of the legs. You trip on them. You need new front teeth.
2. The mobile base has "locking" wheels that fail to "lock" completely.
3. The mobile base has spindly wheels that cannot climb a single layer of sawdust.
4. The mobile base is very complicated or expensive.


Posted 11/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Boring | Chisels | Handplanes | Saws
Bookmark and Share

In the interest of full disclosure, the following book – "The Perfect Edge" – is being published by my parent company, F+W Media. Also, I consider the author, Ron Hock, a good friend. Oh, and once I got on stage and shook it with a belly dancer in Greece after too many grape leaves and shots of ouzo.

OK, now that all that's on the table, I think I can also say I'm a big fan of the two other big sharpening books out there: "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee (Taunton) and "Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Sharpening" by Thomas Lie-Nielsen. I've also sharpened a few tools in the last 15 years using everything from a brick to a $1,000 electric-powered record player.


Posted 11/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

During one visit to an art school, I saw a lot of things. But it was the French fry boxes that made my head hurt.

Scattered throughout the school were student works that clearly were furniture (i.e. you could sit upon them). Others clearly were art (they were just for looking at). But there were some pieces of work that defied categorization. In fact, at some point I started asking myself: "Hmmm. Is that thing art or garbage?"

Out by the loading dock was a weathered plank of wood propped up against the wall. It had some pieces of wood rudely attached to its backside. Was this a low bench? An art installation? Or a piece of trash waiting to be taken to the curb?


Posted 11/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Despite my Southern friendliness, I have bit of a mean streak.

On Thursday we visited George Walker's home and workshop in Canton, Ohio, to shoot some photos for his upcoming articles on furniture design for Popular Woodworking.


Posted 11/5/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Though I need another sliding bevel like I need a goat in my living room, I recently ordered one of the new sliding bevels from Chris Vesper Tools in Australia and have been putting it through its paces.

I reviewed Vesper's sliding bevels in the April 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking. I also wrote about Vesper for the Fine Tool Journal – you can read the article for free here.


Bookmark and Share

Congratulations to Randy Klein and his family for their portrayal of Norm Abram at all phases of his life, from a small mischievous boy up to a full-grown bearded woman (just kidding about that, Mr. Abram).


Posted 11/3/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

I finished up building a set of try squares based on Andre Roubo's 18th-century plans this weekend and need to put the finish on them. What's holding me back? Well, I keep using the squares and getting pencil marks on the blades, which need to be removed before I can finish them.


Posted 11/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I quite like round dog holes in workbenches. They are easier to install than square dogs, plus you can use a wide variety of other bench gizmos in them.

But they can have a dark side. I have the Veritas brass dogs in my bench(es), and  used them for many years without incident – until last week.


Posted 10/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

In honor of "International Dress Like Norm Day" (the official celebration begins tomorrow), a fair number of us dressed like our favorite television woodworker.

Because of the short notice, neither Megan Fitzpatrick nor Bob Lang had time to grow proper beards. But they are bearded on the inside, I promise you.

Don't forget to send in a photo of yourself dressed like Norm Abram and send it to me by midnight Monday, Nov. 2, at chris.schwarz@fwmedia.com. The person who sends in the best photo (as determined by our staff), will win a great prize. What's the prize? We're still working on that.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Inspired by Robert W. Lang's article on making wooden try squares in the Autumn 2009 issue, I decided to make a batch of squares this weekend.

Yesterday at lunch I bought some quartersawn European steamed beech that was on sale at the local lumberyard. The clerk at the yard described it as "rustic," which must be a local Ohio term meaning "crap." I found one 12' board in the whole stack that had enough straight material suitable for making layout tools.


Posted 10/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I like it when the name of something is eponymous – it fits. Was there ever a woodworker who was more aptly named than the late "Art Carpenter?"

When I was working as a newspaper reporter, I dealt occasionally with a spokesman named "Woody Forrest." I don't even know if that guy was a woodworker. Why isn't my name "Woody Forrest?"

Instead, I've had to endure a name that (according to our dog-eared dictionary of baby names) means: A Christ-like war-monger who is black in color.


Posted 10/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Add this to your favorites: George Walker has launched a new blog on furniture design that will supplement his column that will appear in every issue of Popular Woodworking starting with the February 2010 edition. Both the column and the blog are called "Design Matters."

Walker is the host of the excellent DVD "Unlocking the Secrets of Traditional Design," a short and information-packed introduction to the world of using simple proportions to draw pleasing furniture.

We were so impressed with Walker after meeting him that we asked him to write a regular column for Popular Woodworking. He agreed. We also suggested that a blog might be a good way to amplify his points in his columns. And he agreed again.

Walker's first post, "Good Eye," suggests why people tend to like frame-and-panel doors with a bottom rail that is wider than the top rail. It's definitely worth reading.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

We were all bummed about news last week that "The New Yankee Workshop" was ceasing production. And, in case you've forgotten, this Saturday is Halloween.

I think you see where this is going.


Posted 10/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I crossed the border from Missouri to Arkansas this afternoon, and I knew immediately I was home.

For starters, the land is achingly beautiful. I miss the Ozarks I grew up with, which are surprisingly unspoiled by development. Every curve in the rugged terrain brings a new vista. You might be high over a lake one minute, deep into a fog bank the next and then spiraling down switchbacks the next.

The roads are magnificently contorted, narrow and treacherous. In other words, it's a fun drive.


Bookmark and Share

When woodworking magazines publish plans for a reproduction of an antique, we show you the details you need to construct a facsimile. We give you part sizes, joinery details and tips on how to perform the major operations in a modern shop.

But rarely do we give you the social, communal and historical context of a piece. We never try to investigate the original maker's intentions, or discuss his or her relationship to the neighbors, family or village.


Posted 10/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

After 21 seasons, "The New Yankee Workshop" is closing its doors, and its much-beloved host, Norm Abram, is going to focus on his personal projects and PBS's "This Old House," according to Russ Morash, executive producer and director of "The New Yankee Workshop."

"Norm has done this for 20 years, and he thought it time to step back and do a little less," Morash said in a phone interview. "And because the show was so tied to him, we didn't want to replace him."

There has been lots of speculation among fans of the show and the woodworking press that the show was looking for someone to take the reins when Abram left. But Morash said he didn't think that would be a good idea.

"Comparisons would be inevitable (between Abram and a new host)," Morash said.

The decision to stop production of new episodes of "The New Yankee Workshop" was a mutual decision between Morash Associates Inc. and WGBH Boston, Morash said. But that doesn't mean that "The New Yankee Workshop" is gone forever.

A spokesman from WGBH declined on Tuesday to comment on the matter.

The show's web site, newyankee.com, will continue to operate. And Morash foresees putting shows or segments from the show on the Internet in a "You Tube-like situation" so future generations could enjoy and learn from Abram.

Morash also noted that Abram may some day change his mind and want to crank up "The New Yankee Workshop" again.

"Who can predict the future?" Morash said. "He may want to do this again."

In the meantime, Abram will continue to work on "This Old House," and his own personal projects, both building furniture and improving his house.

When asked why Abram chose to stop working on "The New Yankee Workshop" instead of "This Old House," Morash laughed.

"'This Old House' is a much easier deal," he said. "Norm actually had to work on 'The New Yankee Workshop.' It was a lot of work. And I certainly respect his decision to step back."

With the loss of new woodworking programming from "The New Yankee Workshop," many bloggers and woodworking writers are wondering if the craft itself is on the decline or if TV woodworking shows are no longer viable.

"My own view is that broadcast is dead," Morash said. "That's my personal take on it. Newspapers are dead. And print is dying. The only hope is the Internet. And it's my hope that you'll see lots  of Norm on the Internet in the future."

And what about the craft itself? Is that swirling around the drain?

"No. There is a fundamental human need to build," Morash said. "People will always want to polish their craftsmanship."

The other question is what's going to happen to the shop itself, which is stocked with all manner of machines and hand tools. Morash said he's personally looking forward to some free time so he can build a few things in the shop. As for the long-term plans for the shop, Morash suggested that the shop could be put on display at the Smithsonian.

"It could be like Julia Child's kitchen," Morash said, "which I'm told is one of the most popular exhibits there. Who wouldn't want to visit Norm's shop?"

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When I bought my first smoothing plane at a flea market in Burlington, Ky., I could fit everything I knew about handplanes into one of the Elvis Presley shot glasses I stumbled upon that weekend.

One vendor had a lot of smoothing planes on his table, so I picked up each one, took it apart like I knew what I was doing and inspected its guts. After that mummer's farce, I ended up buying the plane that felt good in my hands. After all, some of the planes were a bit heavy, and others had totes that were square.


Posted 10/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

In a move that will please traditionalists and people who pare, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks has started offering some plane irons and chisels made using oil-hardening (O1) steel – in addition to the more modern A2 steel.


Posted 10/15/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

There are some words we get in trouble for using in a woodworking magazine. Here are a few: "foolproof" (fools, we have found, are very clever), "holiday" (don't ask), and "sexy."

Sure, it's OK to put a half-naked woman on the cover of a magazine with "that word" in 42-point type in the checkout line at the market where I get my cheese curds and snack crackers. But put "that word" in a woodworking magazine, and people become rather put out – like you threw a dozen cuddly puppies into the river.


Posted 10/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I've always been an advocate for low workbenches, especially for planing operations. My workbench is at 34" (and while standing on my horse stall mat it's 33"). And I've become quite fond of Megan's bench, which is at 30" (horse mat included).

But I can tell you that 16" is just too low. Yes, you really can get your weight right over the plane at 16", but then there's the problem of the occasional and inadvertent somersault.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Toolmaker Ron Hock has a new book coming out soon and a new blog – both deal with sharpening. I had the privilege of reading the draft of the book, "The Perfect Edge" (Popular Woodworking Books) earlier this year. I think Ron has broken some new ground, especially on the topic of abrasives.


Posted 10/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

During the Woodworking in America Conference, there were two quotes that really stood out from all the bon mots that were hurled.


Posted 10/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

This week I'm building the sitting bench for the White Water Shaker community, which will be featured in the Winter 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine. The version I'm building is a very close copy, so it will be 13' long. The version for the magazine will be 4' long.

Dealing with long stuff is a challenge, so I thought I'd post a couple movies during the next week that demonstrate some of the tricks to doing it well.


Posted 10/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

If you liked the video of me walking up a wall, you might enjoy this alternative treatment sent in by a reader who we like to call "Cheeseburger, No Meat."

If you are offended by references to my bum, or to masked avengers, then please do not click on the video.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

This is my first non-woodworking post on this blog. So if you're a sane and rational person who is here to read about woodworking, skip this post.


Posted 10/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Even though I am 100-percent confident in my ability to join two boards together using the tail-of-the-bird joint, I am always riveted when I get to see how other accomplished woodworkers go about the task.

In fact, when I watch others work, I never fail to pick up some important details.

On Saturday at our Woodworking in America conference I got to watch Roy Underhill from "The Woodwright's Shop" television show cut some dovetails and discuss his approach, which is planted in history and practical experience. So here it goes.


Posted 10/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Saws | Woodworking Classes | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

You know, at our Woodworking in America event last week I didn't get to talk to a lot of the toolmakers. In fact, I didn't even get to see some of them. That is what a madhouse it was. So that's why I'm particularly pleased to announce a couple additional toolmakers who are coming to the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event Oct. 16-17 in Indianapolis.


Posted 10/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

If you haven't seen it, Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick is on the cover of the November 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking with her new laminated veneer lumber (LVL) bench. When I proposed this cover, some of the people in our circulation department were sure I had been drinking lacquer thinner.


Posted 10/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes | Personal Favorites | Saws
Bookmark and Share

In my book, there is one rule for buying vintage tools: Buy them from someone who will take them them back if the tool stinks.

That rule keeps me on my toes on eBay, at auctions, flea markets and at garage sales. If I can't completely inspect, disassemble and use a tool before I buy it, I really want a money-back guarantee.


Posted 10/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

One of the (10 million) highlights of the Woodworking in America conference last weekend was getting to watch woodworkers participate in the Hand Tool Olympics sponsored by the Society of American Period Furniture Makers and run by Mike Siemsen.


Posted 10/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Whenever I try to explain the new Veritas Surface Vise with words, I get only blank stares. Perhaps I don't have the language skills to manage it. Perhaps a short movie will help.


Posted 9/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

I've had my head plunged deep into the cracker barrel of the 19th century this year while working on the forthcoming book "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker."

One of the things I really like about writing books is the research. I have, for example, learned more about the history of pencils this year than during any other period in my life. In fact, I'm considering making some for my own amusement if I can get some graphite from Cumbria.


Posted 9/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Reader Questions | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Woodworker Lévis Thériault of Fredericton, NB, sent these interesting photos of a leg vise he purchased in an antique shop.

The real head-scratcher here is the round post at the bottom of the chop. I haven't seen a parallel guide like this that wasn't threaded.


Posted 9/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Boring
Bookmark and Share

As you might remember, we have a bit of a competition going among some of the women attending the Woodworking in America conference this week. Megan Fitzpatrick, Heather Griffin (one of the conference organizers) and Kari Hultman from the blog The Village Carpenter are all vying to be the best borer.

As a result, they'll be competing in the Hand Tool Olympics, sinking a 3/4" bit through yellow pine to see who is the fastest (points off for a hole that isn't plumb).

Today we gave Heather a few pointers on boring, then Megan showed us how she was doing. Then Megan tried to kick Heather in the head. Really. It's in the movie.

By the way, apologies to everyone in advance here. I called both of them "girls" during this short video. Yes it took only 1:09 for my Southerness to shine through. In Arkansas we call 70-year-old grandmothers "girls." And until my voice changed, they called me "girl," too.

In any case, the boring climax of this competition will occur at the Saturday-night banquet at Woodworking in America. It's a full card: Roy Underhill and a catfight.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 9/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

In journalism school they teach you this about skepticism: "If your mother says she loves you, then you better find a way to confirm it."

And so I was a little suspicious when Glen Huey told me about the dust collection system rigged up on the SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw (PCS) that we're testing for the December 2009 issue.


Posted 9/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

We’ve received a number of questions about Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL) and the new “Gluebo” workbench that’s featured in the November 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking. I’m afraid you’ll have to wait for the article for some of those answers (the issue is mailing to subscribers now, and will be on newsstands the week of Oct. 8), but there are a few items online that may be of interest:


Posted 9/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

One of the weaknesses of the so-called transitional handplanes is the way the tote attaches to the metal frame of the tool. The tote comes loose when you touch it, look at it or even think about it.


Posted 9/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

This year I've made friends with my chisel plane. In fact I don't think I could have installed the Benchcrafted wagon vise as a retrofit without it.

Today I got another lesson in chisel plane use from Carl Bilderback that I'd like to share with you. Carl is a woodworker, semi-retired carpenter, tool collector and active member of the Mid-West Tool Collectors Assn. As a finish carpenter, Carl had several specialties, including repairing finished or veneered surfaces on the jobsite and hiding those repairs from customers.


Posted 9/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Back in June, some of you might remember that I was building an Ohio copy of a fascinating three-legged Chinese stool. And some of you might also remember how I flamed out at the very end of the project, cutting a single tenon at the wrong angle, ruining the entire thing with no time to recover before the scheduled photo shoot.


Posted 9/21/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Reader Questions
Bookmark and Share

Question: I often see dovetail layout lines left showing on the exterior of pieces. As I'm in final cleanup up of a blanket chest (yes, the Union Village chest from your article) the layout lines are still visible after I've got the piece smooth.  However, the lines do not uniformly show on all edges.

What to do? Get rid of them all, re-establish lines consistently around the piece, or just leave it as is with faint lines of inconsistent depth around the piece? It doesn't look all that bad as it is.


Posted 9/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Megan Fitzpatrick's new workbench is on the cover of the November 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking, which will be mailing to subscribers soon (I don't want to be more specific than that). Of course, having a woman woodworker on the cover threw some people in our publishing organization for a loop.

"What? Where's the middle-aged balding guy in a flannel shirt? You're putting a woman on the cover in a down economy? Are you a mole for Fine Woodworking?"

Don't worry. There are tons of middle-age guys featured on the inside of the magazine. I know that's the real reason you buy woodworking magazines.

OK, back on track here. We've just posted a video tour of Megan's new workbench, which is made from laminated veneer lumber (LVL). We're teasing her mercilessly about it. Be sure to count the number of times she flips her hair. And be sure to wait for the satanic cackle at the end.

And please buy the issue!


Posted 9/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

This morning I decided to repair the vintage Chinese stool that we knocked apart earlier this year. Senior Editor Robert W. "Bob" Lang is building a couple reproductions for the winter 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine, and the parts of this vintage stool have been gathering dust on one of my sawbenches.

I need that sawbench. So I broke out the hide glue.


Posted 9/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

For me, there is something that is far more interesting than the purported uses of "the nib" of a handsaw. And that is: The origin of the term "jack plane."


Posted 9/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Take six boards. Nail and glue them together. How hard could it be?


Posted 9/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

I never got to meet James Krenov, and so last week I hesitated to write anything about his death. But as I drove home on Friday afternoon I forgot to turn on the stereo in my car, and my mind drifted to a long weekend in 2006 when I was sure I knew the man.


Posted 9/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery & Fastening
Bookmark and Share

This morning we skipped the 20th century entirely.

We invited a few dozen readers to the White Water Shaker Village, a 19th-century colony in rural Hamilton County that is being restored by volunteers. And we invited Freud Tools to the event to show off some of their newest tooling. Freud, never a company for half-measures, sent a huge mobile workshop on the back of a diesel truck.

Dang.


Posted 9/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When I teach people how to sharpen and set up a handplane, I can jabber endlessly to little effect. Sure, I'll get in a few jokes about lemurs and frogs (and their forbidden love), but I really don't earn my keep until I start the "show and tell" section of the lecture.


Posted 9/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

This month I'm finishing up work on a new book called "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker" that is a bit unusual. You can read full details about it on my personal web site, but the quick over-the-back-fence summary is this:


Posted 9/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

This coming week I'm starting to build a pair of close reproductions of the White Water Shaker Meeting House benches. Earlier this summer I measured the original bench, which is in a building near the Meeting House. When I'm done with these reproductions, we're donating the benches to the Friends of White Water Shaker Village, which is restoring the village, and Hamilton County, Ohio, which owns it.

The joinery in the benches is extraordinarily simple. It's all nails and glue. But these benches have been a massive woodworking challenge, even though I have yet to put a single tool to wood.


Posted 9/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The first time I ever met toolmaker Ray Iles, we got into a conversation about the planes made by Karl Holtey. I asked Ray: Have you ever used one of Holtey's planes? How do they work?


Posted 9/3/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

For many woodworkers, the biggest stumbling block when building a workbench is finding the right raw materials and the proper workbench design. I can say this with authority because my mailbox is jammed daily with questions about workbenches.

I am quite picky about my workbench designs (if you're reading my blog I don't need to say any more on this), and I'm picky about the quality of my raw material. I think you can use almost any species to build a workbench, but I have three favorites: maple, Southern yellow pine and ash.

Next month at our Woodworking in America Conference (Oct. 2-4 in Valley Forge, Pa.), Horizon Evolutions will be offering special "workbench bundles" of Pennsylvania ash that have the right amount of wood (plus 15 percent waste) for three of my favorite workbench designs.


Posted 9/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

It's little wonder that Stanley chose to bring its No. 62 low-angle jack plane back to life when the company decided last year to re-enter the premium handplane market. After all, the original No. 62 is highly prized by tool collectors – and Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and Veritas have both improved the plane and made it a workshop favorite among modern craftsmen.


Posted 9/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

The free Marketplace area of our Woodworking in America shows are – hands down – the best woodworking shows I've attended since I started in the craft. The exhibitors are top-shelf (no ShamWow) and are hand-picked. (We say "no thanks" to several sellers.) See the complete list here.

And, I might add, the Marketplace is totally free. Check it out Oct. 2-4 in Valley Forge, Pa.


Posted 8/31/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When I began teaching at woodworking schools several years ago, it was the most selfish act imaginable.

I didn't do it to share what I know about woodworking. I didn't do it to inspire other woodworkers. I didn't do it for the travel or the all-you-can-eat breakfast bars in mid-range hotels.

I began teaching so I could save enough money to buy a half-set of Clark & Williams hollows and rounds. I have coveted these planes since I first saw them in 2002 when I met Larry Williams at the WoodWorks show in Ft. Washington, Pa.


Posted 8/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Boring | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

I mean, who doesn't like a good girl fight?

In high school, fights among the boys were boring. Lots of posturing. Maybe some shoving. At best they might clasp into some Greco-Roman grip that would immobilize both of them for up to five minutes. Yawn.

Give me Heather "Cat Food" Barker vs. Tammy "Runs With Scissors" Gentry any day. There was always some hair pulling. The occasional dirty punch. And, if you got lucky, some good bloody fingernail scratches.


Posted 8/27/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

We reviewed six premium carcase saws in the Autumn 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine, and while all of the saws performed quite well, the Gramercy carcase saw took top honors. (That bit of information is free, for the rest, please buy the issue. My children haven't eaten meat for a week.)


Posted 8/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

Woodworkers are like the undertakers of the tree world. We dissect the living tissue and prepare it (some might say mummify it) for its trip to the afterlife as a highboy or napkin basket.

Personally, I've always been a bit embarrassed that I don't know what the different species look like in the wild. And except for the species that thrive in this growing region, I couldn't tell you where in North America certain species grow. Where does juniper thrive? Heck if I know.

I've resolved to become better acquainted with our woodland friends before I rend them limb from limb.


Posted 8/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

While I really like it when people send me photos of their workbenches that were inspired by my book "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use," I really dislike it when their finished results kicks the butt of my Roubo.

Today in the "Take that, Schwarz" category is this specimen from Graham Collins. This Roubo-style workbench is made using beech. It is a massive beast: The legs and top are almost 5" thick.


Posted 8/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When we select our instructors for our Woodworking in America conferences we look for craftsmen who have devoted their lives to woodworking and who are willing to share that knowledge with the world at large (believe it or not some people still keep secrets).

We also pick the people from whom our magazine's staff would like to learn woodworking.

As a result, the instructors for our Hand Tools & Techniques conference (Oct. 2-4 in Valley Forge, Pa.) are people at the top of their field, or are rising stars who we think you should meet. Many of these instructors are people I've been dying to meet since I started in the craft. Here are a few of my favorites:

Toshio Odate: Personally, I cannot believe we convinced him to travel to this event and speak. I've spoken with him on the phone (we're publishing a couple articles from him in 2010), but I've never met him in person. If it weren't for Odate, I don't think that Japanese tools would be so popular in the United States. His landmark book, "Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit, and Use," is the gold-standard in the field. His teaching and writing have influenced tens of thousands of woodworkers. And we're asking him to speak on a topic that rarely gets touched upon in the Western media: Japanese planes.

Peter Follansbee: This guy is an infectious disease. He made me fall in love with 17th-century furniture and joinery. His research, furniture and writing (check out his blog) have profoundly influenced the way I look at wood, tools and processes. He's working on a book right now about his work that I think will catapult him into the limelight. Honestly, if you don't know squat about early American furniture, you are missing out on one of the most interesting and lively styles around. Look for me in the front row of his lecture. Also, Follansbee is going to be demonstrating joinery in the Hands-on Bench Rooms. Bring your ax.

Ron Herman: Unless you live in Ohio, you probably haven't heard of Ron Herman. He's a general contractor with Antiquity Builders of Ohio and has been working by hand professionally his entire life. He has forgotten more about saws than I know. In fact he lives and breathes saws and is an evangelist for sharpening and using these tools. I don't want to say too much about him here because we're going to do an entry on him later. But let me just say that he is larger than life, unbelievably skilled and is someone you need to get to know.

Roy Underhill: I got to spend several days with Underhill last year and I can tell you this: He is the real deal. He's not some tarted-up semi-skilled hack who looks good on television. He is a man who has devoted his life to hand craft. He reads Andre Roubo in the original French. He is most likely the best woodworking teacher alive today. And he's nice enough that you'd trust him with your kids. There's a reason we call him St. Roy.

Charles Bender: A short look at Bender's portfolio will make you do one of two things: put down your chisels and take up tiddlywinks, or it will inspire you to try to achieve a small percentage of what he's built. I've never seen such a far-ranging portfolio of work. And the number of authentic pieces Bender has built is staggering. He's now starting to share what he knows in the pages of Popular Woodworking and at his school, The Acanthus Workshop. He's a tireless researcher (ask him about his book collection) and has more than book smarts – he's built just about every piece of furniture imaginable.

I'm going to cover some of the other demonstrators in the coming week, but you can get a short look at their bios on our Woodworking in America web site. If you are on the fence about this conference, let me try to give you a push. These instructors are going to both transform and transfix the attendees (us included).

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. Now is the time to register. We're offering $40 off the admission price until Sept. 9. After that, the price goes to $375. Click here for details on the different pricing packages available, including single-day passes.


MySpace Countdown Clocks


Posted 8/21/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery & Fastening
Bookmark and Share

At the Lie-Nielsen event we had in our offices in May, I gave away hammers. A lot of hammers. (No, this isn't the "making amends" portion of a 12-step program. Aw crap, I just offended all the addicts. Sorry addicts.)

Instead, I wanted to share the joys of cross-peen hammers. Think of it as giving away the first rock of crack for free. (Sorry to my readers who are hubba pigeons!)


Posted 8/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

To celebrate International Workbench Day, I have a great photo (above) and some links to some interesting workbenches across the Atlantic.

These links and photos were sent to me by Kim-Erik Häggblom in Finland, and I spent about an hour last night at these sites browsing through the photos (no luck with the words, however. My Finnish is about as good as my baguettes these days).


Posted 8/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

As someone who works in a shop every day with a bunch of bright and talented woodworkers, let me say that the craft is a lot more fun when you can compare notes, tease each other and work together. And you learn new skills a lot faster as well.


Posted 8/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

While I was poking around the Blue Spruce Toolworks booth at Woodworking in America and trying to figure out how I could escape without spending money (and failing), something curious caught my eye on the workbench. It was a beech-handled dovetail saw that looked familiar.

It was a Wenzloff & Sons saw that was modeled after the early Kenyon dovetail saw that surfaced at the Woodworking in America conference in Berea, Ky., last year. (Read about the saw here.) Wenzloff said he was going to make them for sale and even showed me a prototype, but this was the first time I'd seen the finished product.


Posted 8/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

For woodworkers who don't have a tail vise, wagon vise or other kind of end vise, the Veritas Wonder Dog has always been a great substitute. It drops into a round dog hole and allows you to pinch your work between the Wonder Dog and a second dog.

Now Veritas has developed a new bench-clamping device that is faster, more versatile and has a much longer throw than the venerable Wonder Dog. It's called the Veritas Surface Vise, and Lee Valley officials were showing it off at the Woodworking in America conference last week. I got to toy around with it a bit and take a few photos.


Posted 8/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Veritas is set to release two new backsaws in the next couple weeks that are based on the same architecture of the Canadian company's very successful dovetail saw.

The saws were available in the Lee Valley booth at the Woodworking in America conference last weekend and lots of the attendees gave them a test drive.


Posted 8/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I could barely get out of bed this morning. It wasn't because of a hard night of slamming Maudite. Or because I had worked every waking hour for the last seven days. It was because of my shameful, shameful sawing time in the Hand Tool Olympics at Woodworking in America.


Posted 8/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Last week Megan Fitzpatrick and I put the finishing touches on her new workbench, which built using an ancient French design, 19th-century fasteners and modern materials (laminated veneer lumber).

We are pleased with the result.

The entire bench is made using LVL and can be knocked down in minutes thanks to its nuts-and-bolts fasteners. The overall workholding and structure of the bench is ideal for anyone who uses hand tools, power tools or both in their work – thanks to Andre Roubo's 18th century drawings of workbenches.


Posted 8/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

One of best ways to learn how a piece of furniture is put together is to take it apart. Many of best furniture makers I know who work in historical styles have done a fair bit of restoration or conservation work.

Last week at the Woodworking in America: Furniture Construction and Design conference, all the attendees got a chance to dive deep into how American casework is built with the help of Jeff Headley and Steve Hamilton of Mack S. Headley & Sons cabinetmakers.

Jeff and Steve brought an entire van load of reproduction furniture they've built that could be completely disassembled. And during the three-day conference, they took pieces apart, put them back together showed us every single trick we asked about.


Posted 8/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Don Williams is like a shark in a clown suit. He'll bite you in half while you are laughing.

During his presentation at Woodworking in America last weekend, I am quite sure that he destroyed the assumptions about pre-industrial woodworking of many of us in the room. And he did it with jokes, amazing slides and a smooth delivery.


Posted 8/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Several customers have asked why the pages in their brand new copy of "Handplane Essentials" have a slight wave to them, like David Hasselhoff's hair in a botanical garden.

The good news is that the wave should go away in a couple weeks. If you want to know why this happened, read on.

Because paper is a wood by-product, it is also somewhat hygroscopic, meaning that it can absorb moisture, according to our manufacturing department. We printed this book here in Ohio, where it has been very wet. After all the pages were printed, they sat at the printer for a few days while they awaited time in the bindery. During that time, the pages absorbed some moisture and got a little wavy.

As the books acclimate to your environment (like wood acclimates to your shop) they will flatten out.

We received some of the first copies from the bindery and they had the wave to them. Those first copies are indeed flattening out.

I'm told this is actually a common malady. But when you print books overseas, the books have a good long time in a container ship to acclimate.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I got wind last week of a new German-made smoothing plane from Kunz and – surprise – today it landed on a table while I was signing books at our Woodworking in America conference.

It’s called the Kunz Plus, and it’s a 9-3/4”-long smoothing plane that is quite obviously a departure from the company’s planes of the past. I think the kindest thing I can say about the old green Kunz planes is that they, ahem, "required tuning.”


Bookmark and Share

 “The machines need the numbers. We don’t need the numbers.”
 — Jim Tolpin


After attending almost two days of lectures at our Woodworking in America conference, my head is swimming with both big ideas about the craft and the fine details of joinery.

Each of the lectures I’ve attended reminds me of a snake eating a pig. I have taken in a huge amount of information, but it is going to take me weeks or months to digest it. I hope that we’ll be able to do this construction and design conference again in a future year because this is one of the coolest things I’ve ever attended.


Posted 8/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

I got to spend a little time in the Marketplace area of the Woodworking in America conference this morning and got a first look at some new hand tools that will be available soon.

First stop was with Dave Jeske at Blue Spruce Toolworks. Dave has a new line of try squares coming out this fall (they will be ready in time for our Woodworking in America Hand Tools show in Valley Forge, Pa.).


Posted 8/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Today I was standing in line at our hotel waiting to check in, when I did a foolish thing.

“Oh my gosh,” I said (OK, I actually kinda squealed.) “It’s Thomas Moser!”

And sure enough, there was Thomas Moser, checking in at the hotel in style. I felt like a total furniture dork and turned a shade of crimson. Then I felt a lot better when the guy in front of me turned around and said:

“I know! It is him!”


Posted 8/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

A couple weeks ago a friend in Chicago sent me a new Western backsaw (nice gift!) that he picked up for a couple dollars. It was shiny and factory-fresh with a beech handle and a clean etch.

It also reminded me of why I switched to Japanese saws 16 years ago.

Though this saw had never been used, it is at least 20 years old. And as a result, it is poorly sharpened, ill-set, and a few minutes of holding the tote felt like hanging from the monkey bars for an hour with four country hams draped around my wrists. Really. Just like that.


Bookmark and Share

In the history of measuring equipment, there is one blunder so awful that it makes me twitter (old-school twitter) like a smack-addled squirrel every time I encounter it.

It's a 6" steel rule that I acquired in 1997. The numbers are engraved and filled in. The markings are nice and fine. And there are four scales: eighths, sixteenths, thirty-seconds and sixty-fourths.

What's not to like?


Posted 8/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When the new premium planes from Stanley arrived, it was agony. I was in the middle of another project and had to just stare at them for a week before I could get my mitts on them.

The first tool I set up was the No. 4 smoothing plane, which I reviewed for the October 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking. I think this plane is the best of the new Stanley crop, but when I first set it up, I was grumpy.


Posted 8/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

My wife, Lucy, is fearful that her four cats are going to get trapped inside the walls of our house. And it's my job, as a woodworker, to prevent this from happening.

Before you think I should have her committed to the Cat Rancher Institute for Disturbed Females, let me explain.


Posted 8/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I’ve been talking a lot about laminated veneer lumber (LVL), the raw material we used to build our latest workbench. But what I haven’t talked much about is why we chose this material and the characteristics of the workbench design itself.

The as-yet-unnamed bench is just about finished, and I am organizing my thoughts to write the article about the bench for the November 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking.


Posted 8/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

I was worried this would happen. Some of the entrants to our contest to build a tool from an Altoids tin built tools that actually worked. Sigh. Woodworkers are so practical.

We're also practical. And so the winner of our contest is Tom Bier, who built a working router plane from an Altoids tin. The tool is impossibly clever – you open the lid to store the iron and thumbscrew. Heck I'd buy one.


Posted 8/5/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Trying to explain a "vise garter" to someone using only words is impossible for me. I've tried. I'm not man enough to conquer the garter.

The job of a vise garter is to lock the vise screw and the vise chop together, allowing them to move in and out in tandem. Usually you need to add a garter if you are using a wooden vise screw – metal vise screws have this function built into their casting.

You can use a vise without a garter, but it's not as convenient because you'll sometimes have to manually pull the vise chop away from the workbench after you release the screw's tension on your work.


Posted 8/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When it comes to woodworking vises, I'm quite fond of the leg vise. Once you buy a vise screw (an inexpensive metal screw runs about $30. We're making this leg vise using the wooden screw from Big Wood Vise), you can build the rest of the vise yourself.


Posted 8/3/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

For me a design is never done until the finish is on the piece, I've stared at the thing for a long time and I've turned my back on it.

Up until that moment, I'll readily shift gears if need be. I'll order new hardware, rebuild a drawer or change a moulding. So this morning I found myself in SketchUp tinkering with the design of the laminated veneer lumber (LVL) workbench we're building in the shop right now.


Posted 7/31/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

It seems, well, insane that I would want to build another workbench. But it’s your fault. Really.

After my book “Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use” came out in 2007, there was one significant criticism from readers that hit home. Why didn’t I discuss knockdown workbenches in any detail?

It was a valid question. So much so that I wrote a free supplementary chapter for the book about knockdown hardware and the strategies for attaching the top to the base that would allow any bench to be broken down.


Posted 7/31/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

The Spring 2009 issue is now available for digital download in our store. Our digital issues are in pdf format (not some proprietary web-based, non-portable format). And we've enhanced all our pdf issues with links that will allow you to explore related topics more deeply on our web site. Each digital issue is $6.


Posted 7/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

The more I work with laminated veneer lumber (LVL), the more I like it. Unlike using standard construction pine, the LVL doesn’t move around on you like solid wood.

As a result, it is easy to machine, doesn’t pinch your sawblade when ripping and keeps its shape after you machine it.

In fact, one of the planks of LVL we brought in had been sitting outside at the lumberyard and looked like it was covered in a brown substance that will go unnamed. Even this weathered plank is stable.


Posted 7/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Southern furniture has always fascinated me, most likely because I've spent the vast majority of my life eating grits below the Mason-Dixon line.

For many years, Southern furniture was unknown or ignored until organizations such as the Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts opened its doors. Of course, Southerners have always known about their furniture, but we've always been a little ashamed of it, as much of it was produced with abhorrent slave labor.


Posted 7/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

There is precious little information out there about placing your hardware so it doesn’t look awkward. My theory: Woodworking writers get so worn out by the time that they reach the end of a story that all they do is write: Apply three coats of your favorite finish, attach the hardware and enjoy!

Oh, if only life were that simple. It’s no wonder I see so many projects with terrible finishes and hardware that looks like it was stuck on by drunk chipmunk.


Posted 7/27/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I have never used the right amount of glue – well that’s the way everyone else sees it.

Whenever Publisher Steve Shanesy comes in while I’m gluing, he’s bound to make a comment that I’ve got too much glue on a surface. My reply has always been: Better too much than too little. I’ve never had any finishing problems relating to glue squeeze-out (a great benefit of handplaning your panels) and I haven’t had any joints fail.


Posted 7/27/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

This is just a quick reminder that the pre-sale price of $27.99 for our new “Handplane Essentials” book ends Friday night. After Friday the price will be $34.99 and the book will not be discounted again from us until January 2010.

Also good to know: This book is shipped free anywhere in the United States.


Posted 7/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

One of the coolest woodworking things I’ve seen is where a guy named Mike Burton made some awesome scrapers for cleaning up crown moulding using – ready? – table spoons.

A second cool thing: John Sindelar’s tool collection, which is worth more than the GNP of several Latin American countries. Burton, a professional woodworker, and Sindelar, a farmer and cabinetmaker, have simply let their freak flags fly.


Posted 7/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

At 1:12 p.m. on Tuesday I had nothing to do, so I hustled Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick into the shop to continue work on the workbench made from laminated veneer lumber (LVL).

Of course, this is the only day in recent memory that Megan has worn a skirt, but she was a good sport about it.


Posted 7/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

About eight years ago, when I was still a clean-shaven, short-haired senior editor, I took a trip to see the huge woodworking show at Woodstock, Ontario. There I saw some amazing things:

1. Rob Cosman, then a Lie-Nielsen tool dealer, ate an entire chicken and a two quarts of mashed potatoes one evening after the show.

2. The most dangerous woodworking machine ever – a steam-powered shingle-cutting machine that had no guards and could slice a man's arm off – slamming out huge shingles like they were butter instead of cedar.

3. The prototype for the Lie-Nielsen panel saw.


Posted 7/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings
Bookmark and Share

The most significant woodworking tool that has been introduced in my lifetime doesn’t cut wood and costs nothing. It is Google’s SketchUp program, a 3D computer-aided design program that runs on virtually any computer.

Before SketchUp (the BS era), I used a variety of CAD programs to create construction drawings. Because I use only Macintosh computers, the CAD programs available to me were expensive, clunky or just laughable.


Posted 7/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Though Charleston is the most ethnically diverse and open Southern city I’ve ever visited, its taste in furniture has long been English.

And because I am working on a book (which should be out this fall) on English furniture construction circa 1839, I took an afternoon during my visit to prowl one of the largest antique stores on King Street.


Posted 7/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Drayton Hall in Charleston, S.C., is a time capsule of architecture and joinery. It also is a mighty beautiful place to get killed.

The first time I visited this antebellum plantation on the Ashley River I was a completely stupid tourist. I landed at the Charleston airport in near-hurricane conditions. My dad picked me up in his truck and we ate lunch at a restaurant that no longer exists.

Then, as the wind began to howl, we made the trek up Ashley River Road to this astonishingly untouched plantation. We pulled up to the gate. The wind sounded like Andre the giant was using our truck to play in a jug band.


Bookmark and Share

When I was in Charleston, S.C., last week one of the tour guides said something about cabinetmaker Thomas Elfe that stuck with me.

"Most of his work is buried in the ground."

One of the primary jobs of early joiners and cabinetmakers was building coffins, and these projects have always fascinated me. Frank Klausz built plenty of coffins in his native Hungary. Chinese woodworkers make coffins out of one single log, like a dugout canoe. And they're illegal.


Posted 7/21/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

“Charlestonians thought of themselves as Englishmen who happened to be living in America, and naturally did everything possible to emulate the life of London society.”
— E. Milby Burton, "Charleston Furniture 1700-1825"


Thomas Elfe (1719-1775) was likely the most successful cabinetmaker in colonial Charlestown. One estimate put his personal worth at more than 6,200 English pounds, a sizable fortune for a woodworker.

His shop on King Street in Charleston produced thousands of pieces for the well-monied classes of this wealthy city. A contemporary of Thomas Chippendale (1718-1779), Elfe’s work was heavily influenced by Chippendale’s “The Gentleman and Cabinet Maker's Director,” though the pieces I’ve seen of Elfe’s work also show distinct Southern American touches.


Posted 7/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

I'm a child of the Cold War. I remember the drills in elementary school where we curled up under our desks in the event of a nuclear attack (to kiss our butts goodbye I suppose).

One of my closest friends, Bill Tofflemeier, was obsessed with the Soviet Union and spent a lot of his earnings in junior high purchasing smuggled goods from the U.S.S.R. His room was covered in enormous propaganda posters featuring heroic drawings of Lenin.


Posted 7/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

My grandfather's workbench had an adhesive rule stuck to its front edge, which was extremely useful when woodworking. You could check part dimensions without pulling out a tape measure or steel rule.

The only problem was that it was fixed to that one spot.

Now a Georgia entrepreneur has made a cool product that allows you to put a rule almost anywhere, then remove it without hurting the surface below. Called "Red Tape," it is exactly as its name implies. It's a 55'-long roll of clear adhesive tape with a continuous ruler printed on it in red.


Posted 7/15/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Last week Andrew Lunn of Eccentric Toolworks announced he was going to remove some of the decorative details on his saws and pass the savings onto his customers.

This week we got our first look at what the new saws will look like.


Bookmark and Share

I need to correct a grave error.

In January I published a list of my favorite woodworking writers, but I neglected to include my all-time dearest – probably because her work should be shipped in a plain brown wrapper.


Posted 7/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

In my review of drawbore pins in the Summer 2009 issue, one of my gripes with many of the tools were the round handles. A round handle plus a round pin equals a tool on the floor.

My vintage pins had tapered octagonal handles. They stay put on the bench.

I praised the Lee Valley drawbore pins for their octagonal handles, and now I want to do the same for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. Thomas Lie-Nielsen said  his company will start offering the pins with octagonal handles in a couple weeks.

He sent me a pair to try out, and they are great. The maple handles actually taper at both ends and are easy to grip. If you are thinking of buying a pair of drawbore pins, wait until they offer the octagonal versions.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Time to drop my drawers and lose all my Neander-cred.

My favorite planing stop for drawers and casework is the rip fence on my $1,200 Unisaw. The rip fence is completely adjustable, at the right height for me (34") and 100 percent stable. Also, the benchtop (cast iron and melamine) never needs flattening.


Posted 7/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Separating Shaker furniture from Shaker ideals has risks. The resulting design can have awkward details. Or the overall look can get wedged somewhere between contemporary studio furniture and country-style stuff you might find at a shopping mall.

Shaker furniture is not just a lack of ornament. It is a diverse collection of works by more than 250 cabinetmakers in 18 communities spread across a wide swath of early America. Yes, there are rules and ideals that course through all pieces made by the brethren, but there is diversity within as well.


Posted 7/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Andrew Lunn of Eccentric Toolworks has removed some of the flourishes on his handsaws to speed up production. And he has reduced the prices of each of his saws by about $100 to reflect this.

Lunn says he will no longer hand-engrave the brass backs, nor will he hand-etch the sawplates or use a more time-consuming tinted shellac finish.


Posted 7/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Some things about sharpening everyone knows (it’s two metal surfaces, an abrasive and friction). Other things nobody knows (such as the best system ever). And there is a third category of sharpening facts: Things that everyone should know, but some people don’t.

I’ve been doing a lot of sharpening these last few weeks, both for my own work and for tool testing. And three things have struck me as belonging to that third category. All three things are little steps I take that speed up the sharpening process.


Posted 7/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

We've been testing six carcase saws for the Autumn 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine. And while I can't share the results of the test with you just yet, I want to share some of the interesting stuff we dug up that didn't fit in the printed edition.
 
My goal was to answer the simple question: Should carcase saws be filed for ripping or crosscutting? I'm not sure I even accomplished that. So let's take a look.


Posted 7/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

A shooting board is one of the most essential accessories for a handplane – everyone should have one. But not every woodworker is confident enough to build one or isn't able to build one accurately.

Rob Hanson of Evenfall Studios now offers a custom shooting board of his own design that is well-made, accurate and easily fine-tuned for your work. Sawmaker Mike Wenzloff (of Wenzloff & Sons fame) loaned me his Evenfall shooting board to take it for a test drive. So for the last couple weeks I've been using it in place of my two standard shooting boards. I am quite impressed.


Posted 7/3/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I have three favorite jokes. One of them starts out with, “What’s brown and sticky?” The second one is from journalism school. It goes like so:

“People complain about bias in newspapers. That they never tell the truth. To that I say: What the heck do you want for a (expletive deleted) quarter? The truth costs at least $10.”

In other words you get what you pay for, which is probably not a good aphorism to repeat on a blog.


Posted 7/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

In the world of backsaws, almost all the modern makers have perfected their version of a dovetail saw. But when it comes to tenon saws, things are all over the map.

Some are difficult to start or hard to push. Some are too small. Some are a bit unbalanced. Some have teeth that are too fine. I formed these opinions after trying several examples of tenon saws by modern makers and many vintage saws (teaching classes about sawing has an occasional advantage).


Posted 7/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

Growing up in Arkansas, it seemed we had two kinds of wood: yellow pine and pine that was yellow.

I didn't really start to understand the crazy diversity of lumber available until my grandfather let me play with his collection of veneer samples from Constantine & Son. The store, founded in 1812, used to sell samples of 50 different woods. Each was 1/28" thick, 4" wide and 6" long.


Posted 6/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

All custom planemakers are judged against the work of Karl Holtey. His work has the precision of a Swiss watchmaker, and the tools are finished to such a degree that they some might classify them as jewelry – if they weren't such hardworking tools.


Posted 6/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels
Bookmark and Share

As a beginning dovetailer, I had a crappy set of plastic-handled chisels, a newspaperman’s salary and a copy of the Japan Woodworker catalog.

All three things conspired to make me miserable.

I wanted to cut dovetails with bold angles, but my crappy chisels had side bevels that were as big as Cheddar Mountain at Bonanza. So every time I went to clean out the waste between my tails, the side bevels would tear a bite out of my tails.


Posted 6/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Look around your neighborhood. The next time you see a truck belonging to a contractor or cabinetmaker, there’s a good chance that the company uses a handplane in its logo.

Though the image of a plane is the mark of the craftsman, there are few craftsmen who really know how to use the tool. Has this knowledge been lost? Are the tools simply obsolete?

The truth is that neither statement is true. The handplane is the most advanced and cunning wood-cutting tool ever invented, and it has yet to be surpassed by anything with a power cord. After World War II, handplanes began to disappear from shops because we traded speed for skill and expediency for quality.


Posted 6/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Instead of calling myself a woodworker, I am now considering the title "outsider artist."

Now before you stop reading this entry and resume watching videos of funny monkeys, hear me out for a bit. Whenever I'm at a dinner party with strangers and they find out I'm a woodworker, there is usually one of two reactions.

1. They ask if I could please come over to their house this weekend to build them a new closet, kitchen island, deck or addition to their home.

2. They ask if I enjoy my job at the mall scrollsawing letters all day to make plaques for kids' rooms.

I have tried to explain how I design and build furniture, but I might as well be telling them that I make scented candles from reclaimed earwax. They don't understand why anyone would make something (furniture) that is so cheaply available from Ikea.


Posted 6/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share
If you want to sell something to a woodworker, the easy way is to start by selling him on the idea that he can’t possibly do it himself. If you can accomplish that, then you have someone ready and willing to buy yet another jig to make joinery simple or publication that reveals the secrets to cutting dovetails. In truth, there isn’t much to woodworking beyond cutting stuff to a line and cleaning up surfaces you’ve cut. When I tell myself “I can’t possibly do that” a warning signal goes off, and I look for the reason why.
Posted 6/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery & Fastening
Bookmark and Share
Drawing on his almost four decades of experiential knowledge as well as historic evidence dating back thousands of years, in “Hide Glue: Historical & Practical Applications” author Stephen A. Shepherd provides an in-depth look at the history, chemistry and techniques for making and using hide glues – as well as compelling reasons to do so.

The historical information is of particular interest to me. I was fascinated to learn, for example, that the Neanderthal artists of Lascaux used hide glue to help secure their paintings to the cave walls, and that a circa 1500 B.C. Egyptian mural depicts a glue pot on a fire. Shepherd also recounts a fairly detailed history of the hide glue industry in America.


Posted 6/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share
When The Schwarz first handed me the M.Power PSS1, I was intrigued because sharpening has always been my woodworking Achilles’ heel – if you’re looking to round the end of a chisel, just hand it to me. I can do it. Having a device that locked everything in place to sharpen and touch-up my chisels and plane blades could be a godsend. If you’re a hand-sharpening guru, I doubt this is the setup you’ll be interested in using. But if you struggle with sharp, read on.
Posted 6/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share
"And tho' the Mechanicks be, by some, accounted Ignoble and Scandalous yet it is very well known, that many Gentlemen in this Nation, of Good Rank and high Quality, are conversant in Handy-Works…"
— Joseph Moxon, preface to "Mechanick Exercises"


If you are interested in the early development of Western woodworking – including joinery, turning and carpentry – here is some important news. Joesph Moxon's complete 1703 "Mechanick Exercises: Or the Doctrine of Handy-Works" is now available again for the first time in about a decade.

Gary Roberts of Toolemera Press has spent the last few years restoring and digitizing an original 1703 edition of this landmark work and now offers the book for sale on CD.

The book is a fully featured pdf, which means you can search it by keyword and skip easily to certain sections with bookmarks.
Posted 6/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

I'm just about ready to assemble a drawer, so my daughter Katy lays down her saw and heads to the pickle bucket below the drill press. She dumps the cool water down the drain outside the shop door and refills the bucket with hot.


Posted 6/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Before Mike Wenzloff became a professional sawmaker, he was a furniture maker. Before that he was in graphic design. Before that? An almost-minister. And before that? Fetus? Nope. Logger.


Posted 6/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Don’t buy the knife shown above. You’ll likely find it useless for dovetailing. It will languish at the bottom of your tool box, mocking you every time you push it and the Black & Decker battery-powered tape measure aside.


Posted 6/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

When I attended the 20th anniversary of Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, John Economaki of Bridge City Tools was at the next table. When Thomas Lie-Nielsen called out Bridge City as one of the other pioneering modern toolmakers, Economaki interrupted the speech.

"Bridge City!" Economaki cried out. "Going out of business for 25 years now!"

The crowd roared. What made it particularly funny for me was how true that comment is for so many small toolmaking companies. There is a perception among a lot of woodworkers that Economaki, Lie-Nielsen, Mike Wenzloff, Wayne Anderson, Konrad Sauer and even Karl Holtey must be very rich men.


Posted 6/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Today I got the magazine's staff involved in evaluating carcase saws for the Autumn 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine. But before I could cut the staff loose on the saws, I had to make sure the tools were all dull.


Posted 6/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

The words "always" and "never" will get you in trouble – so you should always endeavor to never use them.

During the early stages of learning to cut dovetails, I foolishly tried to read everything I could on the topic. It was foolish because it would probably take two lifetimes (in dog years even) to get through all that material. And it was foolish because that time would have been better spent practicing the joint.


Posted 6/15/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

The 1830s marked one of the pivotal moments in the history of American furniture. As the country took its first steps toward industrializing, tastes in everything – from architecture to clothing to design – took a turn for the radical.

In fact, some historians say that this moment is when our world transformed from a culture based on wood to one based on metal (and later synthetics).


Posted 6/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

When I first learned about the so-called Golden Mean or Golden Section I was enthralled by the concept. I actually remember the moment. I was in the National Building Museum in Washington, D.C., in 1996 and just discovering that some of the geometry I learned in junior high actually had a use.


Posted 6/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

The newest DVD from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, "Unlocking the Secrets of Traditional Design," is the most information-packed, lucid and mind-expanding 68 minutes of woodworking footage I've ever watched.

Using simple images, dividers and basic ideas, George Walker delivers a compelling crash course in how to develop furniture designs using basic shapes (squares, circles and rectangles), simple ratios and concepts such as symmetry, contrast and punctuation.


Posted 6/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Do you like stories about gladiators? How about stories about idiot woodworking editors?


Posted 6/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

"The two great truths in the world are the Bible and Grecian architecture."
— Nicholas Biddle (1786 – 1844), president of the Second Bank of the United States


Among some historians of furniture and architecture there is a line in the sand where everything built before 1830 was great and everything built after that was on the downhill slide to McMansions filled with Value City pressboard termite-barf.


Posted 6/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

With every project there is always some tool that deserves an Academy Award-style acceptance speech.

“In building this chest of drawers I’d like to thank my mom for birthing me, Hanes for making the underwear that needed storing and my shoulder plane for fitting all the tenons in the web frames.”


Posted 6/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When you pick up an old plane in an antique store or swap meet it is sending off clues. This is (I'm told) a bit like speed dating – your job is to weed out the twitchy, drooling, camo-wearing sociopaths to find a suitable mate for life.


Posted 6/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Traditional cut nails can be made from pretty soft steel, especially the useful cut headless brads. As a result, you have to be careful when installing them. Here are some of the things that can go wrong and how I deal with them.


Posted 6/5/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

After being in and out of print during the last several years, David Finck's "Making & Mastering Wood Planes" is finally available for sale again directly from the author.

This 192-page, full-color book isn't just for the person who wants to build handplanes based on the designs of James Krenov. I read this book when it first came out and was impressed by how much Finck focused on the mechanics of the tools – things that apply to planes no matter what materials they are made of.


Posted 6/5/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

When making through-mortises by hand, one of the occasional problems is that you get a little mallet happy, you drive the mortise chisel a little too deep and you blow out a piece of grain on the exit side.

Or you drive a too-tight tenon into the through-mortise, the tenon hits the rim of the exit hole and the grain blows out. Or – when making angled through-mortises – your chisel lifts up the face grain when you are bashing out the acute side of the mortise. The results are any thing but cute. Here's how I repair the damage.


Posted 6/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

One of my hobbies is chairmaking. That statement might sound kinda dumb. After all, I’m a long-time woodworker and making wooden chairs is woodworking. No?


Posted 6/3/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

You can now read our account of our visit to White Water Shaker Village on our web site in full. I'll warn you, however, that words and photos do not describe what this place is like. (It's like the old expression, "Writing about music is like dancing about architecture.")


Posted 6/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

In the tool world there is an ugly (and erroneous) slur. When one company copies the tool of another company, they call it a “cheap Chinese copy.” Never mind that the copy was almost certainly commissioned by aggressive Westerners.

Anyway, I have no dog in this fight


Posted 6/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

We're received the much-anticipated new planes from Stanley Works and are beginning to set them up for a review in a future issue of the magazine. In the meantime, here are some of the details on the tools that will help clear up some of the misinformation and confusion on the Internet.


Posted 6/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Last week a reader posted a nice SketchUp drawing of a Roubo workbench that you can download (for free) from Google's 3D Warehouse.

The drawing features the Benchcrafted Wagon Vise and a dovetailed end cap that holds the vise in place. I've had several readers ask me what this construction should look like. Now you can download the plan, take this bench apart and see one good solution.


Posted 5/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

On Wednesday morning the entire staff of the magazine crowded around a handmade door in an early 19th-century structure as our guide fiddled with a padlock on the door. A couple clicks later the door swung open and it sounded like everyone breathed in simultaneously.


Posted 5/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

A curved cutting edge is critical to most operations with your bench planes. The curve prevents the corners of the iron from digging into your work, and it allows you to correct the flatness of the face or edge of a board.

But how do you create this curve, sometimes called a “camber?” And how do you create it with a honing guide, which seems to encourage a cutter that is sharpened straight across?

There are lots of valid ways to create the curve. Here’s how I do it.


Posted 5/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

I like a good carcase saw in the same way I like to eat most parts of the pig. I like the way that its well-tuned crosscut teeth slice into the grain and leave behind a glassy smooth cut. I like how easy the saws are to start. I like the fact that they don’t tear the face grain up.

But like fried pork skins loaded with triglycerides, I’ve been trying to give up carcase saws lately. Why? Well it’s for a future book that I’ll be able to tell you about in a few weeks. What counts here is that I’ve been building furniture lately with just two backsaws – a dovetail saw and a sash saw that are both filed with rip teeth.


Posted 5/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The little side-clamp honing guide is my favorite bit of sharpening equipment. But it frequently is criticized for two shortcomings:

• It is poorly made and sloppily painted. So you have to tune the little sucker up before it will perform reliably, especially with chisels. This is a 100-percent valid critique of this honing guide.

• You cannot rely on the honing guide's directions for setting the correct angle on a plane iron – i.e. make the iron project 1-1/2" to sharpen a 30° angle. This inaccuracy is because these instructions are based on using thin irons only, back when most plane irons were consistently about .08" thick. Today many manufacturers use thicker irons.


Posted 5/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

When I build a frame-and-panel assembly such as a door, face frame or back, I almost always add “horns” to the stiles. As a result I almost always get the stink eye from the others in the shop.

What are horns? This is when you make your stiles longer than they need to be – usually 1/2" to 1" longer at each end. So when you glue up your frame, the stiles stick up proud of their mating rails. They look like miniature devil horns to my eye. Then you saw and plane the horns flush to the rail as you fit the frame to the carcase.


Posted 5/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

During the next few weeks, there will be a much-deserved outpouring of praise for Sam Maloof, his work and the indelible mark he left on the craft. As a writer, I’ve never been good at writing these kinds of stories. Maybe that’s because I’ve always thought the bigger picture was made up of thousands of small pictures.

So instead of simply telling you that Sam Maloof was one of the greatest woodworkers of this generation (and he was), I’m going to tell you about chicken tacos instead.


Posted 5/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Growing up, there was little doubt I would turn out, um, peculiar. One week my dad threw out his back while working on the farm, and his doctor confined him to his bed to recover.

So my dad set up a little workshop in the bed and -- while on his back -- built a small end table and hand painted the end panels. My friends don’t believe this story, but I have the table to prove it.


Posted 5/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

While I own an electric plunge router and all manner of bits and guides, I tend to cut my stopped dados using hand tools for a couple reasons. One: I’ve found that it doesn’t take much more time when I have less than a dozen dados to do. And two: The hand-tool method involves less risk to the project.

The real trick with the hand-tool method is to know the right steps to get accurate results. You’ll need a few basic tools: a marking knife, dividers, a chisel, a combination square and a crosscut backsaw (such as a carcase or sash saw). And if you have a hand router, you’ll have an even easier time.


Posted 5/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

As a hand-tool woodworker, I try to avoid bookmatching my panels. Bookmatching creates a panel where the grain in one board runs one way and the grain in the other board runs the opposite.

When you handplane that panel, tear-out is almost inevitable. Bookmatching is, in my opinion, better left to those with sanders and dust masks. Sometimes, however, it is unavoidable when dealing with boards that have been cut sequentially from a tree.

I’m building an early 19th-century five-drawer chest this week and needed to glue up some panels yesterday for the 20"-wide sides, bottom and top. And when I got down to it, I needed to bookmatch three panels so that the chest  looked its best.


Posted 5/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Instead of writing about the flatness of plane soles, perhaps I should talk about something less controversial, such as religion or politics.

When purchasing a vintage plane, the flatness of the sole can be critical when making a purchasing decision. So I’m going to man-up here and talk about how I approach this potential problem.

The soles of vintage handplanes can be warped for a variety of reasons. Perhaps they were poorly manufactured. Perhaps they weren’t properly stress relieved and the casting moved over time. Perhaps they were dropped or abused in service.


Posted 5/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Cincinnati is not a tourist destination like nearby Big Bone Lick, Ky., So when people come to visit our shop I try to accommodate all their requests so they consider their journey to “Porkopolis” to be worth the gasoline.

This weekend, one of the visitors to our shop pointed to the anvil by my workbench and asked:

“Is that the anvil you used to beat those planes with a hammer?” they asked.

“Yes, it is,” I answered.


Posted 5/15/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Whenever I teach a class on handplanes, I'm amazed at what the students bring to set up and use. I've seen Holtey planes and Harbor Freight planes in the same class.

And there's always at least one student who brings an entire box of vintage planes that he or she bought at a garage sale (price $5). And this is where I usually find the biggest pieces of garbage and the brightest jewels.

Because many beginning woodworkers have trouble telling the difference between a good vintage user and slag, I've decided to devote some time to explain some of the hallmarks of good planes and bad ones. In this post, I'd like to talk about frogs, the movable chunk of metal between the blade assembly and the body of the plane.


Posted 5/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Sometimes it seems like there are 100 things that can go wrong with a handplane before it will do one thing right: Eject a perfect and fluffy shaving.

Lately I’ve been using a lot of bevel-up planes on softwoods and have become attuned to some of their peculiarities. Maybe I’m the new dumb kid on these issues; if so, then this blog entry will just be a note to myself.


Posted 5/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Anyone who has spent more than five minutes with me knows that I am obsessed with food – almost as much as I’m obsessed with woodworking. Both of my parents cook (my mom has run a number of restaurants), and I spend every evening in the kitchen or exploring restaurants in Cincinnati.

So if you are going to be in town this weekend for the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event and travel on your stomach, here’s a short list, based mostly on proximity to our offices or stuff that interests me.


Posted 5/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The vintage Stanley No. 48 plane was one of the most gizmo-tastic planes in the company's arsenal. It's a single tool that can cut both the tongue and the mating groove. All you have to do to switch the plane from one function to the other is pivot the fence 180°.

I've had a No. 48 for years and I've inspected a bunch of vintage ones, and they seem to have a common flaw: a wobbly fence. I don't know whether the wobbly fence is caused by years of use or from less-than-perfect manufacturing, but it does hurt your results.

When the fence wobbles, your tongue tends to look like a real human tongue: It's rounded at the top and let's say it's "organic" looking. And the groove tends to look more like a strip mine than a picture-perfect European canal.


Posted 5/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

If you have been putting off buying an insert from toolmaker Paul Hamler that converts a bench plane to a scraper plane, you might want to start checking your couch cushions for change.


Posted 5/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

As a 4-year-old, the woods behind my grandparents' house in Bronxville, N.Y., was both foreboding and magical to me. My grandfather would take me for walks there almost every day during the year my father served in Vietnam. We'd look under rocks, find bird's nests and poke around the underbrush.

I clearly remember one day my grandfather bringing along a saw from his woodshop. And when we reached a certain tree, we stopped and he began sawing a limb off the trunk. He gave no explanation.

After slicing through the limb, he looked at the freshly cut end grain. Then he put this limb on top of a fallen trunk or rock and sawed off a disk about 1" thick. He picked the disk off the forest floor and handed it to me.

I looked at the wood. And the wood looked back at me.
 
Somehow rot or mineral streaks had created a smiley face in the end grain of the disk – two eyes and a perfect grinning mouth. I kept that chunk of wood for years, but I lost it sometime after we moved to Arkansas.

Since then, I've encountered many faces in the boards that have passed under my hands – there's a reason they call it "face grain." For me, wood grain is like puffy clouds; I'm always looking for patterns or meaning.

Turns out, I'm not alone. Reader Chris Burn of Ottawa, Ontario, sent me the photo above of a sheet of veneer that came out of a plant in North Bay, Ontario.

It's pretty cool. But I'm glad that this is a rare occurrence. If every log I cut open was looking at me, I might think twice about firing up the table saw.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. To download the full-resolution photo, click on the link below.

face_veneer_full.jpg (1.74 MB)


Posted 5/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

If only we had 1,000 more teachers like Trevor Smith, I think the future of woodworking would be safe and sound.

Smith, a physics teacher at Troy High School in Michigan and an avid woodworker, manages to weave the craft into his curriculum in surprising ways. And after spending a day with Smith and his students, I think that what the world needs is more boomerangs.

All of the students in Smith's Physics II classes make functional boomerangs to learn the principles of airfoils and flight. They make them using high-density plywood, a band saw, a spindle sander and a few files and rasps.

Most of these high school kids have never had any woodshop experience. Smith surveys his students about their woodshop experience, and when he asks if they know what files are for, the most common answer is: fingernails.

But after a few weeks in the shop, the students are like pros. We spent a morning session with a class in the school's woodshop where Smith's students refined their boomerangs with files and sanding. They ran the band saw and spindle sanders like shop rats. I was even amused to see how several of them had mastered clamping with handscrews (something that even old pros struggle with).

Then the students took their boomerangs out onto the field after lunch and threw them for about an hour. Most of them worked remarkably well.

But the best part of the whole project was how enthusiastic the students were about the project. Many of them decorated their boomerangs, and Smith says they carry them around in their backpacks and even trade and sell the things.

Near the end of the school day, one student brought three boomerangs into the classroom; two of them were completed and one still needed work.

That was the one her father was making. Her dad had gotten so excited about the project that he wanted to make one.

"That happens all the time," Smith says. "The kids are so enthusiastic about their boomerangs that the parents or the grandparents start making them, too."

I must have seen about 50 boomerangs on Thursday, but I definitely had a favorite. It was made by Will Schwarz, who plays on the football team at Troy High School. He said his nickname on the field is "The Schwarz," and so he gave his boomerang the same name.

We'll be publishing a complete story on Smith, plus plans for boomerangs, in the October 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking, which goes on sale Sept. 1.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Today we glued up two chunks of what will become Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick’s workbench.

For those of you just tuning in, I haven’t broken my vow of workbench chastity. The bench design isn’t new (it’s actually quite old), but the material we’re using is. The whole thing is going to be made out of LVL – laminated veneer lumber. So this is a story about a new material. Really. And it’s Megan’s bench, not mine.

After slicing into the LVL on the table saw I learned some of the finer points of this engineered material. Because of the laminations, there really aren’t any stresses in the planks. It cuts easily, like nice plywood.

I ripped each LVL 2 x 12 into four 2-3/4"-wide strips. Then I jointed the solid-wood faces of each strip. The nice thing about LVL is that the faces are thick enough to withstand a couple passes on the jointer before you cut through the lams – it’s like thick, old-school veneer.

The bad thing about LVL is the seams. Every six feet or so there is a scarf joint where the lams overlap one another. These seams determine the direction you should run the material over the jointer. I jointed one of them in the wrong direction and was rewarded with a big splintery bite at the seam. I’ll never do that again.

The material is fairly consistent. The first plank I sliced up was dimensionally perfect in thickness and width. The second one was not. One end was a little thicker than the other (about 1/16") and the plank had a pronounced crook – but only on one edge. Crazy.

The only other bad thing I have to say about LVL is that because it’s (usually) made from Southern yellow pine, it’s pretty dang splintery. I’m in Detroit tonight for a photo shoot tomorrow and let’s just say I brought some LVL with me for the ride.

We glued up the two slabs with regular Titebond and left them in the clamps overnight. Yellow pine can have a lot of resin, which resists waterborne glues. So Titebond’s resident pointy head (Dale Zimmerman) recommends we leave it clamped for at least five hours. We’ll glue up the remainder of the top on Friday.

How will we flatten it? I’m still working on that. Megan keeps bringing up the fact that Senior Editor Glen D. Huey has a wide-belt sander that can handle a 24" top.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The most miserable aspect of hand work is setting up the tools for the first time. Removing the coarse manufacturing scratches from the unbeveled faces of your edge tools can be grueling, boring and filthy work.

(One side note before someone spanks me about David Charlesworth's "ruler trick." I really think you need to remove those deep scratches before you polish the tip with the assistance of a ruler. If you don't, the deep scratches will remain or you'll be ruler tricking that tool for a very long time.)

After setting up hundreds of tools for testing during the last 13 years, I've found that a few inexpensive magnets make the job easier and more accurate.

Get a Grip
I don't know about you, but my left hand gets pretty cramped when flattening the unbeveled faces of my tools. Once I get a cramp (even though I've waited 30 minutes after eating) I find it difficult to apply enough pressure. So the flattening process takes even longer. And so my hand cramps some more. And when I walk out of the shop, my left hand looks like the shriveled prop from "The Monkey's Paw."

So I stick a magnetic base from our dial indicator on the blade and grip that. No, it doesn't magnetize the tool. And no, in my experience, it doesn't bend the tool. What it does do is speed the process. It requires much less effort to keep the blade against the stone. My guess is that it cuts my flattening time in half.

The magnet, which is from Grizzly's G9623 Magnetic Base With Indicator ($16.95 total), doesn't slip or let go – until you want it to. I've also used the square magnetic bases that have a switch. These work fairly well, though I like the lower profile and shape of my base.

Another option might be the Mag-Jig gizmos, though I haven't tried them.

No More Slippery Rules
I do use the ruler trick quite a bit, especially when I teach sharpening and time is of the essence. Students love the trick, but they struggle to keep the ruler stuck to their stone. It tends to slide around, no matter what they try.

My solution? Magnets again. The ruler I use for sharpening is a 12"-long job that I received as a gift for subscribing to the British magazine Good Woodworking. One side is metric, so it's fairly worthless to an Imperialist like myself.

Like all rulers, it would slip on my stone. So I stuck a couple rare-earth magnets on the back; this prevents the ruler from sliding on the stone. I've been doing this for years; it works brilliantly.

Now the only thing that makes me nuts about sharpening is the grime (surgical gloves don't work – my hands get as hot as a monkey's bum). Perhaps I need to get my boss to start paying for manicures – that would definitely get Art Director Linda Watts and Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick interested in sharpening.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 5/5/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Many woodworkers think that the ability to design a beautiful piece of furniture from scratch is a God-given talent. Either you have the knack or you should just make knock-offs.

I'm here to tell you that idea is crazy talk.

While there are some people for whom design comes naturally, I insist that anyone can learn to design well-proportioned, inspiring pieces that are built to last generations. Building things that endure is not just about using the right joinery – it's also creating a form that transcends the shackles of contemporary taste so that it will never be kicked to the curb.

Like any woodworking skill, your eye for design needs to be developed so it can flow through your hands, onto the page and into the wood. And that's why we created the Woodworking in America: Furniture Construction & Design conference.

This three-day event in St. Charles, Ill., will bring together the very best minds on furniture design and construction. And through a carefully orchestrated series of lectures, question-and-answer sessions and hands-on training, you will make serious advances in your ability to create furniture that looks good now, will look good in 100 years and is stout enough to endure everyday use.

The program, which runs from Aug. 14 to 16, is divided into three parts:

• Mastering the mechanics of the design process
• Gaining a deep understanding of the predominant American furniture styles
• Learning to create the right joinery, mouldings and details to execute your designs.

Mechanics
During the last few years, Google SketchUp has changed the world of designing furniture. This free 3D drafting program works on virtually any computer and can be mastered by anyone willing to learn the ropes.

During the three days in St. Charles, we'll show you how Google SketchUp can be used for designing all kinds of furniture, and how you can harness its astonishing power to create designs that can be quickly modified. In addition to interactive lectures, we'll have an open SketchUp laboratory where you can bring your laptop and get hands-on instruction and advice from SketchUp wizards who are also dyed-in-the-wool woodworkers.

And with the help of Jim Tolpin – author of the seminal "Measure Twice, Cut Once" – you'll learn how to take those designs and execute them in a power-tool or hand-tool shop.

Furniture Styles & Details
Though there are many furniture styles, woodworkers tend to build in early American, Shaker, Arts & Crafts and Contemporary styles. So we gathered the foremost experts on the last four centuries of furniture styles to deepen your understanding of them.

Jeffrey Greene – author of "American Furniture of the 18th Century" – will show you how you need to understand regional details to create period furniture that looks right. Robert Lang – author of several books on the Arts & Crafts style – will help you explore this misunderstood era and realize it's not all about dark oak and straight lines. Jerry Grant, curator of the Old Chatham Shaker Museum, will dispel the many myths about Shaker furniture and show you what it really looks like so you can build more authentic, better-looking pieces. And Oscar Fitzgerald, author of "Studio Furniture of the Renwick Gallery," will take you on an inspiring tour of contemporary furniture styles that will open your eyes to the work of the last 100 years.

Construction
Good design is worthless without sound construction. So we brought together some incredible woodworkers who can tell you exactly what joints are appropriate and how to scale them.

For 18th-century furniture, Jeff Headley and Steve Hamilton from Mack S. Headley & Sons will explore authentic casework joints and mouldings, which they reproduce daily in their shop (they've even done work for the White House). Conservator Don Williams will explore the joinery of the 19th century and how it went from being cut entirely by hand to almost entirely by machine – and what that means for your work.

For the Arts & Crafts era, we've brought on Jim Ipekjian, a professional woodworker from Pasadena, Calif., who has built hundreds of pieces in the Greene & Greene style. Jim has an unrivaled mastery of the incredible joinery of this era. And for the contemporary woodworker, we have enlisted Brian Boggs to help you unlock the secrets to composing your projects using wood grain – one of the defining aspects of modern design.

To top it all off, the keynote speaker will be Thomas Moser of Thos. Moser Cabinetmakers. Moser, one of the most successful designers and builders of contemporary furniture, will explain how he started as a home woodworker and became one of the premiere designers of the 20th and 21st centuries.

And if this is not enough, we also will have a Marketplace area filled with vendors selling the finest tools available now. This really is a weekend not to be missed.

The cost of the three-day conference is $375. You can read more details of the conference and register at woodworkinginamerica.com. I'll be there this summer, most likely sitting next to you and taking it all in.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

When people visit our shop at Woodworking Magazine, they are surprised to see the guards in place on our Powermatic 66.

"Those are on just for visitors, right?" is the typical reaction.

Actually no. Years ago I got religion on table saw guards. It wasn't because of an accident – I am accident-free on the machine. Instead, I decided to use a guard at every opportunity after shaking the hands of woodworkers at shows who had missing fingers. I concluded that it wasn't a question of "if" I would get injured. It was just a matter of "when."

So we installed two bits of aftermarket safety gear on the table saw. All told, the upgrade cost us less than $200, but there have been some bumps in the road with both the basket guard and the splitter. In the spirit of Safety Week 2009, I'd like to give you an honest long-term assessment of this equipment.

The MJ Splitter from MicroJig
I installed this little splitter on our 66 in 2004. I also installed it on my Unisaw at home. Because the jig is $20, this should be a no-brainer for all but the professional skinflints among us.

In essence, the MJ Splitter is a semi-circle bit of polycarbonate that presses into three holes in your saw's throat plate. You get two splitters with the kit. And each face presses your wood against your fence to a different degree.

Installation was a snap. The instructions were great and everything went together as promised. And I was quite happy for the first year.

The problem with both the jig at work and the jig at home is that the three little legs below the splitter become weak or bent after use. The first time I had trouble was when I was ripping some stock that had a little bit of tension in it. The kerf closed on the MJ Splitter and pulled it out of the throat plate on my saw.

This happened more and more as the little legs got weaker and bent. Now it's time to replace the whole thing. The splitter is difficult to push into the throat plate and comes out far too easily. I wish the legs were made from a more robust material. But what do you want for $20?

All in all, it's silly not to get the MJ Splitter, but it is silly to expect it will last forever.

Penn State Industries Dust Collection Guard
Among aftermarket basket-style guards, the one from Penn State Industries has all the features you need at a remarkable price – just $170 direct from the company.

It has a shatterproof clear plastic blade cover that has a counterbalance on it. Moving the basket up and down is a breeze. There's even a port for dust collection to help reduce the spray of sawdust from certain cuts. And you can use the system with just about any blade, including dado stacks.

So what's the downside? The guard tended to sag, which is no surprise because of all the weight cantilevered out over the blade. No matter how firmly we fastened the whole assembly to our saw and a storage cabinet, it still tended to droop.

So we fixed it MacGyver-style with a paperclip, some nylon twine and Nair (just joking about the Nair). We looped some string around a fitting in the ceiling and tied it to the paperclip. Then we bent the paperclip into a hook shape and hooked it to the guard. The string prevents the guard from sagging and the paperclip allows us to unhook the guard when we need to slide it aside.

Bottom line: I'd purchase this guard again.

— Christopher Schwarz 

P.S. Read the other Safety Week stories here.


Posted 5/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Saws | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I spent most of this weekend on my knees, and it had nothing to do with a lengthy visit to Chicago’s Hopleaf gastropub or the large cooler of Julius Echter wheat beer that a reader brought to us.

Instead, I spent most of the weekend on my knobby knees at the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event in Chicago for three reasons. One: To demonstrate how to use winding sticks about a dozen times during two days. (I think some of the attendees were just trying to get a look down my shirt.) Second: To try out a new Lie-Nielsen rip panel saw on a makeshift sawbench cobbled out of a shipping crate. And third: To examine every single speck of the new Benchcrafted leg vise on Jameel Abraham’s traveling workbench.

Let’s start with the vise because lots of people bent over this weekend to see how it works. The beauty of the vise is that it is so smooth and quick. Thanks to two rubber wheels on the vise's parallel guide and a Delrin bushing, the vise glides – nay floats – in and out. It’s about as fast as a quick-release vise. And when you spin the 8" round handwheel the jaw closes tight enough on your work to immobilize it. You don’t have to crank the wheel at all.

Other details: The rubber wheels on the parallel guide run on ball bearings, and the jaw opens to 10" – more than enough.

Jameel of Benchcrafted is planning on putting it into production soon; he already has some orders from this show. He said it should cost a bit less than his wagon vise hardware, which costs $350 and is dang well worth it. Yes I ordered one. No, I haven’t yet told my wife, Lucy (Hi sweetie! Sorry!).

The vise will include everything but the wood and the pin for the parallel guide. Jameel was showing the vise on a new traveling bench, which he was sharing at the show with plane maker Ron Brese of Brese Planes.

Ron’s extremely nice and fairly priced infills (which I’ve written about for the Fine Tool Journal) were sitting out all weekend so you could give them a test drive. They were all set up and ready to go. In addition to his smoothing planes, Ron also was showing a new miter plane he’d built using ebonized walnut as the infill. The plane was doing its thing on a nice miter shooting board. I gave it a test drive and became very worried about my wallet.

Not to be outdone, the Lie-Nielsen folks were showing a bunch of new products, including their drawbore pins (which I review in the next issue of Woodworking Magazine), a new DVD on design from George Walker (more on that later this week) and the production version of the company’s tongue-and-groove plane and panel saws (both of which are now shipping).

The tongue-and-groove plane is sweet. Lie-Nielsen has really nailed the form and fixed the problems with the original Stanley. I ordered one a few weeks ago (my personal attempt to stimulate the economy) and will have a full report this week or next.

The panel saw is also nice. After getting a gander at it last weekend, I was itching to give it a test drive. The Lie-Nielsen folks had the rip-tooth version with them and it worked well. Deneb Puchalski (said Poo-hall-ski) with Lie-Nielsen said the saw I tested had not been taper-ground and it didn’t have its etch, so I’m going to hold off on the details until I get my hands on a production version.

The event was held at the shop of furniture maker and woodworking instructor Jeff Miller. While the shop is fantastic, it is exceeded by its occupant. Jeff’s work is extraordinary. He makes wood do things that wood doesn’t like to do. And his mastery of curved and compound joinery is humbling. Add to all that the fact that Jeff is low-key and as friendly as they come. I spent some time prodding him to write for us. We’ll see what happens.

After spending the weekend on my feet and knees, however, I’m ready to spend an evening on my back. Starting now.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

I'm fairly well convinced that my ears are different than yours. The music I like isn't going to sound the same to you. It's almost impossible for me to share with another person what the Heartless Bastards sounds like to me. Language is too imprecise.

Same goes with the eyes (and tastebuds). How you experience a Paul Klee or a Hebrew National is impossible to share with me.

The problem is that our senses are tied to our big, dumb brains, which process and filter the waves of information our organs receive.

And so it makes me crazy to explain how to sharpen to people because it involves so many senses (except taste I think) that are processed. And there is so much information that comes in through our eyes, fingers and ears that beginners cannot focus on what is important.

So here is what I see when I sharpen a plane iron. I'm going to show what it looks like on the unbeveled side, which I call the "face" and others call the "back."

Above is what the face of a smoothing plane iron looks like when it is fresh from the wrapper. The vertical scratches are deep and are left behind by the manufacturing process. These have to be removed. So I begin by abrading the tool on my #1,000-grit waterstone.

After a short time on the #1,000-grit stone the metal gets a scratch pattern that looks like this. I move the iron back and forth diagonally on the stone and examine it every couple minutes. I'm looking for where the deep vertical scratches go all the way to the end of the iron. That's where the metal is weakest and the edge will begin to break down. The arrows point to where I see problem scratches. When these scratches disappear at the end of the iron, I can move on to the next grit – #4,000 grit.

Usually #4,000-grit stones start to give me a good polish. And so the #1,000-mesh pattern is generally replaced by more of a polish. Some #4,000-grit stones don't do much polishing, but most do. Try working the iron in one direction – this brings up the polish faster.

If I can see the deep vertical scratches, I might need to drop back to the #1,000 grit. In the drawing above you can see some #1,000-grit scratches and one deep manufacturing scratch at the right that are problems. Usually I'll drop back to the #1,000-grit stone here for a few minutes to get that deep scratch out.

I'll also start to see faint horizontal scratches left behind by the #4,000-grit stone. When the #1,000-grit scratches and manufacturing scratches are gone, move to your next stone. For me, that's the #8,000-grit waterstone.

This stone should bring up a nice mirror-like polish. You might have some horizontal scratches from this stone, but those generally aren't a problem. Look for any #1,000-grit diagonal scratches (as shown with an arrow above). Keep working until all the vertical and diagonal scratch marks are polished away right at the cutting edge. Don't worry about the scratches that don't make it to the edge.

I'm sure all this looks different to other experienced sharpeners, but these crude pencil drawings are about as well as I can explain it without coming to your house.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When I sat down in a restaurant's booth in early April and waited for my pan-fried noodles, I knew that I had found a new workbench material.

For the last couple years I've been researching alternative materials for building workbenches – materials that are strong, inexpensive and widely available. And for the last six months I've been pestering Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick to build a workbench using LVL – laminated veneer lumber.

You're unlikely to find LVL in a home center, but it is widely available in commercial lumberyards. Contractors use the stuff to cross long spans because it's incredibly stiff, straight and reasonably priced. And it comes in 60' lengths (if you need it that long).  

In the wild, LVL looks like a piece of dimensional stock – the stuff Megan bought today looks like yellow pine 2 x 12s. But as you get closer you can see the edges and ends are laminated. Our 1-3/4"-thick pieces had 16 plies of yellow pine, each with a dark glue layer.

The stuff is pretty cheap, too. A 1-3/4" x 11-7/8" x 24'-long piece of LVL was just $110. (You can also find the stuff in different thicknesses and widths, though it's harder to find.) But how will the stuff fare in a workshop? And will it look decent?

That last concern was Megan's objection to LVL.

Back at the noodle bar, Megan and the other magazine's staff members approached the booth. I pointed to the table.

"This is LVL," I said.

The woodworker who made the restaurant's table ripped the LVL, turned it 90° and laminated it up. They put a nice finish on it and it looked great. Megan's objection to LVL disappeared as soon as she saw the table.

Today we brought the stuff in to build an 8'-long bench for Megan. The bench's design is going to be a blend of the Roubo and the Holtzapffel benches (the Holtz-bo). It will have a leg vise in the face vise position (with a wooden bench screw from BigWoodVise.com). And it's going to have a quick-release vise in the end vise position.

I'm certain the design will work. And after today I think the material will work as well. It came into the shop fairly dry – a couple of the sections were a few points above the norm. It jointed nicely on our powered jointer with a carbide cutterhead. And it ripped beautifully and easily on the table saw.

Next up: The big question. What will the glue do to the high-speed steel knives in our planer? And how will the scarf joints in the lamination fare when they are machined?

By the way, our full investigation into this material will appear in a future article this year in Popular Woodworking.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

While teaching a class on handplanes this weekend, one student in particular was having a heck of a time with his Veritas No. 4-1/2 smoothing plane. Let's call him Mr. Papanicolaou. (I just hate it when writers use simple names for pseudonyms.)

Papanicolaou was trying to dress a board with the plane, but the plane refused to take a consistent cut. The plane would take a shaving at the beginning of the board, but then it would kinda crap out somewhere in the middle.

And so began our diagnosis.

First we checked to make sure the frog was secured tightly to the plane's body. Check.

Then I looked at the board to make sure it wasn't springing between the bench dogs. Check.

Then I checked his mechanical adjuster to see if there was any backlash in the mechanism that was fouling him up. Nope.

Then we reassembled the entire plane. I checked the sharpness and shape of the iron (check and check). We reattached the chipbreaker and made sure it wasn't bending the iron off the frog.

We checked the tension on his lever cap to make sure it was holding the cutter assembly against the frog.

Then I took some shavings with the plane myself on my workbench and on a board I knew to be flat. Perhaps Papanicolaou was applying pressure at the wrong places. Perhaps the bench had a bad hollow. Perhaps the board was just wacky on the junk.

I had the same problems as Papanicolaou.

And that's when I turned my attention to the sole of the plane. I didn't have any feeler gauges, so I checked the sole using a straightedge and held the plane up to the light. Sometimes this method exaggerates the problem because you see the light reflected off the sole – effectively doubling the error.

But the problem leaped out and poked me in the eye. The sole was the shape of a malformed banana. There was a large bump right behind the mouth. And another smaller bump at the heel. (The photos are of the plane taken in front of a tracing box.)

In this photo the plane is rocked forward on the bump behind the mouth so the toe is touching. This plane rocks!

Papanicolaou sheepishly volunteered that he'd flattened the plane's sole to try to increase the performance of the tool. Now we had our answer.

This isn't the first time this has happened during a class. And so here's my advice: If you spent serious money on a tool, don't flatten the sole yourself. If you suspect you have a problem, call the manufacturer for advice. If there's a problem, they can fix it for you.

If you are buying old tools, take a straightedge and feeler gauges with you. Check the sole of the planes you are interested in buying. You need the areas in front of the mouth and along the sidewalls to be coplanar (a hollow area in the middle of the sole behind the mouth is usually OK). If you find problems that are more than .004" in critical areas, be wary.

If you do decide to flatten the sole of a plane, practice on a junker first and read up on the various techniques on the Internet. Here's what I do: I glue a long strip of blue belt-sander paper to granite. I can flatten block planes, smoothers and jack planes with this setup. Jointer planes are a bear.

Not all your planes need to be dead flat (anything used for roughing can be wonky). But if you want to take really fine shavings, it's important.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/27/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Saws
Bookmark and Share

This weekend I assisted Thomas Lie-Nielsen during a class on handplanes at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking. Thomas brought along some of the new tools they are working on and talked to the class about new tools in the pipeline in Warren, Maine.

Here are some details:

Panel saws: Lie-Nielsen is starting to ship its first panel saws. Yes, it's true. I first saw the prototype for this saw about eight years ago when Rob Cosman was using it at the Woodstock woodworking show. Since that prototype, the saw has evolved considerably.

It has a taper-ground sawplate, a nib at the toe and a gorgeous curly maple handle with a lamb's tongue detail. Thomas brought the saw in a nice leather holster. I didn't get a chance to try out the tool, so now you know everything I do about the saw. More details to follow.

Tongue and groove plane: Lie-Nielsen is also starting to ship these planes. I got to use a prototype of this tool a couple years ago when we were shooting the "Workbenches" DVD. The production version of this tool is far and away better than my original Stanley No. 48.

Instead of two irons that you have to fiddle with to get exactly even, the Lie-Nielsen version has a single iron that is forked. Also, the fence on the Lie-Nielsen is more robust than on the Stanley and moves very little.

I made some joints with this plane during the weekend in hardwood and was impressed. While my No. 48 struggles in hardwoods, this tool had no problem in oak or maple.

O1 Steel: Thomas mentioned a couple times during the weekend that he was hoping to offer some more tools with high-carbon oil-hardened steel. For the most part, Lie-Nielsen uses A2 steel in its blades, but some customers prefer O1, especially for tools that require a low sharpening angle, such as paring chisels and blades for some low-angle planes.

Speaking of paring chisels, those are also on the drawing board.

Workbench hardware:
Lie-Nielsen has begun making its own workbench hardware. Thomas brought along a new tail vise assembly to show, and it was sweet looking. Thomas says it's much faster to install and won't droop over time. It also has another surprise, but I'll have to save that for another post.

One final tease: Thomas says he has a load of beech that he's letting dry.

I'm sure I'll hear more details at the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event in Chicago this weekend (Friday and Saturday). If you're in the area, stop by at this free show, say hello and you can see some of this stuff for yourself.

One final thing. To the student this weekend who brought me a six pack of Bell's Two-hearted Ale: Thanks! My wife thinks I'm getting a reputation as a lush because whenever I go out of town to teach I come back with a trunk full of alcohol.

Is this bootlegging? And is it a bad thing?

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Really, I have enough clamps – a couple dozen – to do just about anything.

If I can't clamp it, I can always use pinch dogs, drawboring or some other dodge to get the job done.

But I don't think I have enough marking gauges. I always have at least three or four set up for a project at any given time. This week I have four unfinished projects on my bench, and I'm running out of gauges.

If you're a regular here, you know that I like the Tite-Mark cutting gauge. It is a marvel of micro-adjustable engineering. Today, let me introduce you to my other favorite gauge: The Les Outils Cullen slitting gauge (it's also a cutting gauge).

This gauge is made from Dymondwood, brass and steel. Dymondwood is a high-end plywood-like product that looks like an exotic wood and is durable and stable. The fit and finish of the Les Outils Cullen is superb. It's one of those tools where they make all the screw heads line up (somewhere, there's an engineer who is tingly all over right now).

Two features of this gauge make it stand out: The knife itself and the mechanism that locks the head to the beam. What I like about the knife is that you can easily reverse it in the beam. That means you can go to marking the baselines for your dovetails to slitting thin pieces of stock with just a simple turn of a thumbscrew. The knife comes quite sharp, is the proper shape and can score deeply if you ask it to, such as when defining the field of a raised panel.

The locking mechanism is the other standout. The bottom part of the beam is radiused and it drops into a matching cove in the head. A large thumbscrew locks everything in place. It is very solid all-in-all – I cannot detect any of the wiggling shimmy that plagues cheap gauges.

Les Outils Cullen Tools in Quebec makes a number of gauges that range in price from $39.95 to $79.95. The slitting gauge is $54.95 from TheBestThings.com. Highly recommended.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Robert Giovannetti – aka The Tattooed Woodworker – has just posted a lengthy and insightful interview with Thomas Lie-Nielsen, the founder of Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. I've known Thomas for a long time and I learned quite a few things from the article.

You'll get answers to these interesting questions:

1. Why the company stopped making the No. 9 miter plane in bronze.
2. What are the new tools on the immediate horizon for the company.
3. Which tool in his line-up is "the most underrated."

Check it out here. It's a good read.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Saws
Bookmark and Share

For those of you who chisel out all your waste when dovetailing, this post is not for you. Please move along. There's nothing to see here.

OK, now that we're alone: Have you ever been confused about which frame saw you should use to remove the waste between your pins and tails? I have. For years I used a coping saw and was blissfully happy.

Then I took an advanced dovetail class with maestro Rob Cosman and he made a strong case that a fret saw was superior because you could remove the waste in one fell swoop. So, like any good monkey, I bought a fret saw and did it that way for many years.

A fret saw's thin blade drops into the kerf left by a dovetail saw. Then you just turn and saw.

Here are the results left by the fret saw.

But fret saws aren't perfect. Almost all of them require some tuning. You need to file some serrations in the pads that clamp the blade, otherwise it's all stroke, stroke, sproing! Oh and the blades tend to break a lot. Or bend.

And fret saws are slower. I use 11.5 tpi scrollsaw blades and it takes about 30 strokes to get through the waste between my typical tails in hardwood.

If you want to see a good video on how to tune up a fretsaw, check out Rob Cosman's site. He shows you how to hot rod the handle and bend the blade for the best performance.

About Coping Saws
What I like about coping saws is that they cut faster. I use an 18 tpi blade from Tools for Working Wood. (I think they're made by Olson.) The blades cut wicked fast thanks to their deeper gullets. It takes me 12 to 14 strokes to remove the waste between tails.

Coping saws require two swooping passes to remove the waste. Drop the teeth in your kerf and make swoop one.

Come back and make swoop two. Sometimes you have to rotate the blade to do this.

The other thing I like about the coping saw is that its throat is deeper (5" vs. 2-3/4" on the fret saw), which allows me to handle some drawers without turning the blade. Also, the blades are far more robust and almost never come loose. I'm quite partial to the German-made Olson coping saw. It's about $12 and beats the pants off the stuff at the home centers.

The major downside to the coping saw is that you have to remove the waste in two passes instead of one. Because the coping saw's blade is thick, it usually won't drop down into the kerf left by your dovetail saw (unless you saw dovetails with a chainsaw). So you make two swooping passes to clear the waste.

After the last couple weeks of constant dovetailing (hence all the dovetail posts – sorry about that), I think I'm going to put my fret saw away for a while. In other words, I'm going to stop fretting and just cope (sorry about that as well).

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

There are lots of people who will show you how to handplane the edge of a board. A few less who will show you how to really flatten the wide face of a board. A smaller number will show you how to flatten a glued-up panel (stay tuned – that tutorial is already written) and even fewer who will demonstrate how to plane an assembled carcase.

After lunch I dressed a small dovetailed box I'm building and took some photos along the way. Have a minute? Get the alcohol!

Really, get the alcohol. A dovetailed carcase has a lot of end grain, so moistening the end grain with denatured alcohol will make the work easier.

Set up a planing platform for your carcase. Big carcasses can be sleeved over the end of your bench. Small carcasses and drawers can be worked on a platform that's clamped to your bench.

As with all aspects of hand work, everything begins with stock selection. I try to pick boards with the straightest grain so I can plane them in both directions – from the ends and into the middle of the carcase. This avoids blowing out the end grain of the pins and tails.

If the board has a pronounced grain direction (which stops me from planing both directions)  I'll use a plane with a high pitch to do all the smoothing work – this also allows me to work from the ends and into the middle. High-angle planes can ignore grain direction. And, despite what you've read, you can plane end grain with them. Sharpness fixes almost anything.

Trim the Pins
I trim the pins with a sharp block plane. The reason I prefer a block plane is that it's quite narrow, so I can work in small areas without planing away stuff I want to keep. You can skew the blade to make the cut easier. And don't forget the alcohol. Work from the end toward the middle – but just trim the end grain, not the face grain.

With the pins trimmed on both ends of one face of my carcase, I need to make a decision. If I'm going to attach moulding to the carcase, I want to ensure those areas are dead flat. (Bending moulding = no fun.) I'm attaching base moulding around this box so I trued its lower section with a jointer plane. Note that I start the plane at the end, work into the middle and lift off in the middle.

Check your work with a straightedge to make sure you're not creating a hill in the middle of your panel. If you are, work the center only until you get it flat.

Smooth the Face
Then use a smoothing plane to dress the face. Start from the ends and work to the middle, lifting at the end of the stroke. At the moment your joints' baselines disappear, you're done.

One difficulty people have here is with boards that have a pronounced grain direction. Here's how I deal with it: Plane "with the grain" on the carcase face for the majority of the panel. Lift off only at the very end.

Then come back and dress the other direction with a high-angle plane, working only a short distance. That way if you have to scrape, it will only be a small area. Now plane the other side of the carcase using these same techniques.

Trim the Tails
Now trim the end grain of the tail boards. Moisten the end grain with alcohol and work from top to bottom (or bottom to top). This prevents you from having any blowout on your tailboards. When the tails have been trimmed, grab the jointer plane and smoothing plane and work from the ends and into the middle again, just like you did on the other two faces.

Note: There are other ways to tackle this job. You can plane a small chamfer on all four corners and plane straight through on all four faces of your carcase. This is faster but risky. If your chamfer isn't big enough, you're toast. You also can fetch the belt sander or random-orbit sander. But you wouldn't be reading this blog entry if you sleep with your sander.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/21/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

With the release of the new Veritas Small Scraping Plane last week, lots of people are saying: Cool! I want one! Do I need one?

Good question. Scraping planes are curious birds. The large scraping planes are typically used to dress tabletops and large panels that have unruly grain. Scraping planes can ignore grain direction, work large surfaces and leave a relatively flat surface – especially compared to a card scraper.

The small scraper planes work the same way, but I wouldn't want to use one for a banquet hall table. So they get used in other ways. You can use them like a block plane for dressing edges – this is how bodger Don Weber uses his Lie-Nielsen No. 212. If you have trouble bending a card scraper, the small planes are a good substitute as they are easy on your hands. And they can be used for evicting localized tear-out on a larger surface.

Veritas officials loaned us one of their new Small Scraping Planes last week. I was involved in testing a pre-production model of the tool, so I'm already quite familiar with the way it works. It is very clever and easier to set up than the No. 212 model made by Stanley and Lie-Nielsen (I've owned the Lie-Nielsen No. 212 for many years). The Veritas also costs less money (It's $119 and on sale now for $99. The Lie-Nielsen costs $160 to $175.)

Both tools, I found, have plusses and minuses. Let's take a look.

Veritas: Easy to Set But Can Clog
What makes the Veritas different is its blade system. Unlike the Lie-Nielsen, the Veritas uses a thin blade (.039" thick vs. .120"). The thin blade allows you to camber it gently by turning a small straight screw at the rear of the tool. This is much like the system on the venerable Stanley No. 80 cabinet scraper and the excellent Veritas Large Scraping Plane.

The net result of this system is that the Veritas scraping plane is easier to set up than the Lie-Nielsen. You insert the blade, tighten the clamp and give the cambering screw a turn. Then you scrape to your heart's content.

The other new twist with the Veritas is the adjustable palm rest that gives the plane its Beetle-esque shape. It's impossibly clever – you simply move the rest until the plane fits your hand, then lock it in place with a hex-head wrench (included). Once locked, it's quite stable. You can force it out of position, but you have to work at it.

In addition to that ergonomic touch, the toe of the tool has a nice lip for your thumb.

My only complaint with the tool is the same one I had with the pre-production version. I think the tool clogs with shavings more easily than the Lie-Nielsen. I suspect – but could be wrong – that the cause of the clogging is that the blade-clamping mechanism is bigger and lower on the blade. And the tool's mouth is fairly wide open. What tends to happen is that you take a stroke with the tool, and on the return the last shaving drops below the sole. As you push forward for your next stroke, the stray shaving fouls the mouth.

If you pull the shavings out regularly, you won't have this problem.

Lie-Nielsen: Won't Clog, But Trickier to Set Up
The Lie-Nielsen uses a variable-pitch frog that allows you to set it for a wide range of pitches. This is handy for experienced users but sometimes frustrating for beginners. If you want a camber on your blade, you are going to have to add it while sharpening – there's no cambering screw on the tool.

This makes setting the tool a little trickier. You have to tap the iron left and right to get the camber in the center. Then you sometimes have to fine-tune the frog to get the shaving you want. After a while you get the hang of it, but I wouldn't want to learn to use the tool on live stock.

On the plus side, I can't recall this tool ever clogging. The mouth is tighter and the blade-clamping mechanism is fairly high. Shavings fall out and don't get pulled back into the mouth.

As to ergonomics, I think it's a draw. The Lie-Nielsen, while odd looking, is remarkably comfortable to my hand. And the Veritas is exactly whatever I want it to be.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Joinery | Saws
Bookmark and Share

The hardest thing about dovetailing isn't the sawing or the chiseling or the layout.

It's the seeing.

I don’t think I can teach anyone to see, but I can show you where to look. Developing your eye – plus your ability to sense the perpendicular – will do more for your dovetailing skills than any jig, square, knife or saw.

Like everything with dovetailing, it all begins at the baseline – the thin scratch across the grain that determines the limits of the joint. When you remove the waste between the tails and the pins, a frequent error is to leave too much material behind, which prevents the joint from closing.

You need to be able to glance at the joint and sense immediately if the baselines on the front and back of your workpiece line up without any waste between them. Ian Kirby and other woodworking instructors recommend using a small square to probe the joint and look for humps and bumps.

I have never had much luck with the small square approach. If I have to probe a joint, I'll do it with the long side of a chisel and see if the tool rocks back and forth on anything. Then I use the same chisel to tease out the garbage.

But it's rare that I ever do that. Instead, I hold the board up to eye level and take a quick look. After enough dovetails, you'll see it and know exactly what to do.

And the truth is, I rarely have to do much to my baselines except chase some little bits of junk in the corners. And that's because I have a good sense of the perpendicular. We're all born with it, but it's like a muscle. You need to work at it.

When I'm chiseling out the waste between my tails and pins I hold the chisel at 90° to the work and stand to the side of the tool to ensure it's at 90°. Again, other woodworking authors recommend you use a square or even a block of wood clamped to your baseline as a reminder. But this is really a "Use the Force Luke" moment. You know 90°. Just position yourself so you can see it.

(Quick side note: The more hand work you do, the more you'll find this comes in handy for boring and mortising especially.)

The other time this sense of 90° comes in handy is when you are sawing your pins out and the waste blocks on the ends of your tail boards. A pencil line or knife line is handy, but the real guide is your gut. You'll know when things are going wrong, even if the line is covered in dust.

Once you start developing these two skills you'll find that you can put your winding sticks away when processing boards with your handplanes. Your sense of square will show you the high spots in a board at a glance.

This blog post is not brought to you by the High Times beauty pageant. Promise.

— Christopher Schwarz

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

While my dad was sleeping off the flu in February, I was plundering his drawers. The man has an English chest problem like I have a hammer problem. I pulled out all the drawers of his six or seven 19th-century chests of drawers and gave a close look at their construction details.

One of the features I quite liked was the way that some of them dealt with the groove plowed in the sides and drawer front that capture's the drawer bottom. There are lots of ways to deal with the groove so it's not visible on the outside of the drawer.

• You can use drawer slips instead of a groove.
• You can bury the groove in a half-tail in the drawer's side.
• You can, with care, bury the groove in a full tail in the drawer side.
• You can skip the groove and use a plywood bottom and cleats.
• And on and on.

Many of the drawers in my dad's house use what we moderns would call a finger joint at the bottom of the drawer side. It's essentially a half-tail with a 0° slope. It's easy to cut using hand tools, looks pretty good and avoids having a big half-tail at the bottom of the drawer side. Click here to see a photo I took at my dad's.

I used this layout in a couple drawers that I built yesterday and I like it. The only trick comes when you are transferring the tail layout to your pin board. The groove plowed in the finger joint prevents you from getting your knife against the pin board.

So instead, I just used the wall of the groove and a square to strike the knife line on the pin board. It worked fine. There are some other details to my dad's drawers that I'll discuss in future posts. Right now I have to go help shoot a magazine cover.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Bookmark and Share
Everybody has a list of woodworking books they enjoy and a stack of woodworking books that they never should have bought (anything with "Krenovian birdhouses" in the title). And most woodworkers have a list of woodworking books that they wish would get published someday.

That is not what we are writing about today. Below are the books that should never see the light of day. Or are simply ridiculous. Joel Moskowitz, the founder of Tools for Working Wood, came up with 11 sample titles below. Have a look:

"The Complete Guide To Honing Guides"
"Woodworking and Intellectual Property Law for Forum Posters"
"Lost in a Tool Tray - The Search for the Hidden Marking Knife"
"Seven Excuses for not Finishing Your Kitchen Cabinets"
"Tool Purchase Budgeting"
"Interesting Uses for Rarely Used Tools"
"101 Party Suggestions for those 'I've Finished a Project' Parties"
"Popular Woodworking's Guide to the Writings of Chris Schwarz"
"How to Increase Productivity When You Have Internet Access At Work"
"How to Make Your Own Folding Chairs"
"A Price Guide to Lie-Nielsen Boxes and Packing Materials"

Of course, Joel's list prodded me to make up my own. I don't know if I can top that "price guide" book. That one almost made me soil myself. Here goes:

"$10 Bed Rocks and Unicorns that Poop Rainbows"
"Make Your Own BBQ Grill -- From Wood!"
"Craft Fair Crap"
"Still More Craft Fair Crap"
"'Nice Crotch!' and 600 Other Naughty-sounding Woodworking Terms"
"How to Murder Trees and Make Stuff With Their Flesh"
"Plywood Silhouettes of Famous French Monarchs"
"I Hate Tools That Cost More than $1 (And the People Who Buy Them)"
"How to Make $40,000 a Year at Woodworking" (Oops, this actually is a real book!)

OK humorous woodworkers. Here's your chance. Leave the title of your most ridiculous imaginary book in the comments below. By the way, this is all a joke. So if you're going to leave an angry comment, I'm going to roll my eyes.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

The last few weeks I've been doing lots of hand joinery, and in that short period of time I have completely fallen for my Blue Spruce Toolworks mallet.

It's the perfect weight (1 lb.) and size (8-1/2" long). It's beautifully finished. It's perfectly balanced. But what is really astonishing about the mallet is how it can take a beating without getting beat up.

Most wooden mallets (round or square) become dogmeat in short order – no matter what sort of wood you use. The Blue Spruce sidesteps that problem by using an acrylic-infused head. Every pore is filled with plastic, yet the mallet feels like wood to your hands and responds like wood when you hit something. That is, it doesn't bounce like a rubber mallet, which should be reserved only for circus clowns.

I've had this Blue Spruce mallet since February, have been using it just about every day and have yet to make a dent in it. It still looks as good as when I got it out of the box. Yes, it is more expensive than the mallets in the $2 bin at Home Depot that smell like a possum's underarm. Yes, you can turn your own for less. Or you can send Dave Jeske at Blue Spruce 80 of your hard earned American dollars and get the most well-designed and durable wooden mallet I've ever used.

Don't just take my word. After messing with my mallet, both Senior Editor Glen D. Huey and Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick bought them. Megan bought a blue one. (The vacuum process that adds the acrylic can also be used to infuse the wood with dye.) Glen got a red one (Psst. Don't tell Glen but some people think it looks a little... uh.. pink.)

I think this plastic technology could be used in other woodworking tools. Blue Spruce already uses it in handles for bench chisels. It would be great for the handles of mortise chisels – those receive a whooping. It also could be used in the totes for saws and planes – these are notoriously fragile. How about a wooden try square made from it? (I assume the acrylic reduces or eliminates the expansion and contraction process.) Hammer handles?

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/15/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

In the shop, my mechanical pencil is as important as my eyeglasses. I use a mechanical pencil with a 0.5mm lead to darken in my knife lines when cutting dovetails, tenons or other joinery.

I like the really thin lead because I can usually drop it into a knife line and – with just light pressure – the lead will mark only the right and left sides of the knife line. That makes it easier to split my pencil line when sawing.

I know you are beginning to think I have an engineering background. Really, I’m not all that fussy.

While I like my mechanical pencils, I’ve always hated three things about them: the pencil mechanism itself, the lead and the eraser. Oh, and the pocket clip is flimsy, too.

I generally buy the Pentel pencils, which are the top of the line here in Kentucky. Their mechanisms tend to jam; I get about six months out of a pencil. The eraser is as effective as a gummy bear. The lead breaks too easily.

But heck, that’s what you get, right?

Today I was at Staples looking to replace my latest ex-Pentels when I noticed something I’d never seen before: “Super Hi-Polymer Lead,” which is supposed to be 25 percent stronger. (Stronger than what? Stinky cheese?)

I picked up a pack of the stuff with my new soon-to-be-dead pencils and used it to mark half-blind dovetails all afternoon. You know what? It really is stronger than the regular lead. I didn’t snap a single lead through six sets of dovetails. That is a record.

So if you’re a mechanical pencil dweeb like me, check out the Hi-Polymer stuff next time you need a refill. Hey, now I only hate two things about my mechanical pencils.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

When most people think about cutting dovetails, they think: handsaws. However, there’s more to dovetailing than sawing. You also need to be mindful of your handplanes when you’re dovetailing. They can create gaps or help prevent them.

This week I’m dovetailing a bunch of drawers and smallish boxes, so my planes are heavy on my mind.

If I remove any material from the inside of this pin board, the joint will become gap-tacular.

First, let’s talk about how handplanes can cause gaps. If you cut your pins and tails for your box and then plane all the inside surfaces, then you are asking for trouble. Planing the inside surfaces of your pin boards will make you look like a crap-tacular sawyer.

Don’t get it? Think about it for a minute: The interior surface of your pin board contains the wide triangles that fit into your tail board. Every stroke of your handplane on the interior of your pin board makes the joint looser and looser by removing the widest part of the joint (the same advice holds true for the belt-sander crowd).

You can, however, plane the interior surfaces of your tail boards with little consequence. The more planing you do, the more trimming you will have to do after assembly, but this is really no big deal.

So how do you avoid this problem? Plane the interiors of all your surfaces before you cut your joinery. This is a good idea for many reasons. First, planing helps remove any twist or bow in your stock, which makes joinery easier. And second, it prevents your joints from getting looser as you refine their surfaces.

For casework, here’s how I do it: First, I dress all the long-grain surfaces with a jointer plane. Then I cut the joinery. Assemble the carcase. Trim the proud nubs. Smooth plane the exterior. Be done with it.

When cutting a cross-grain rabbet, first draw the tool backwards so the nicker can define the shoulder. This results in cleaner cuts (and is historically accurate, thank you Peter Nicholson).

Here's the completed rabbet. It's less than 1/32" and a bit more than 1/64". It's all you need.

Now that we know that handplanes have an evil side, how can we use them to tighten our dovetails? Use a moving fillister plane to cut a shallow rabbet on the inside of each tail board.

This shallow rabbet is the width of your stock’s thickness (use a 3/4”-wide rabbet for 3/4”-thick stock). And the rabbet is less than 1/32” deep. What does this rabbet do? It makes transferring your marks from your tail board to your pin board (or vice-versa) much easier. The mating board nests right into the rabbet so you don’t have to fuss around with lining things up on the baseline.

Senior Editor Glen D. Huey showed me this trick in 2002. He was using it to line up pieces of differing thicknesses, but the rabbet also made transferring the marks from one board to another almost foolproof.

I use a moving fillister plane to cut the shallow rabbets. A true moving fillister has a depth stop and fence to regulate the depth and width of the cut – plus it has a nicker that scores the cross grain ahead of the cut. This reduces tearing.

This shallow rabbet, which is used by other dovetailers such as Rob Cosman, is completely worth the effort to make it. It takes just a few strokes with your plane and prevents an endless cycle of fussing and adjusting.

The Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane meets all the criteria to make this cut, as does the Philly Planes moving fillister plane and vintage moving fillisters. The Lie-Nielsen Skew Block Plane (with nicker) is lacking only a depth stop (you have to count the shavings and be careful if you use it for this purpose).

Next week: How a hammer can tighten up your dovetails.

— Christopher Schwarz

Here I'm pushing the rabbet against my pin board. This makes transferring the shape of the tails a can't miss affair.


Posted 4/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

I feel like a dirty English tool dealer this morning. But I’m OK with that.

Recently I purchased a bunch of brass-bound folding rules to give to co-workers and friends. Most of these were Stanley No. 62s, a common rule that I really like. If you want to know my favorite one, however, you’ll have to come to Cincinnati in May and fish it out of my tool cabinet.

In any case, the last folding rule I had left to give away was definitely an Alberto Fujimori (a former ruler). The scales on the outside were too dark to read. The scales on the inside of the rule were OK. The rule had cost only $1.76, so I wasn’t feeling overly shafted.

This folding rule was special because it had been used hard. The brass corners were worn from frequent use. One of the scales was charred a bit (that must have an interesting tale behind it). But despite the bad scales, its joints worked well and the rule had two of its three alignment pins intact – so it hadn’t been mistreated. Most folding rules are missing these pins, which keep all the components locked together when the rule is folded.

So I decided to try to restore this rule and see if I could turn it back into a nice piece of workshop equipment. British tool dealers have a bad reputation of taking beautifully patinated tools and wire brushing them into pupil-piercing brilliantness. I didn’t want to do that. So I started with a mild cleaning with mineral spirits and a toothbrush.

That did absolutely nothing.

So I consulted Philip E. Stanley’s book on folding rules ("A Source Book for Rule Collectors" – love the book, by the by). He recommends using Boraxo, a hand cleaner with lanolin. You can get it at home centers. It’s a bit gritty, smells like oranges and removes grease from your hands.

Here's the ruler after I treated one scale with Boraxo (at top). The other scale is untreated.

I cleaned one arm of the folding rule with the stuff last night and things began looking up. The paper towel got a brown skid-mark and the ruler got easier to read. However, Easter morning I woke up and (after making French toast and helping the kids find their eggs) I decided to do a little ruler resurrection. I was going to potentially throw my $1.76 down the metaphorical toilet.

I mixed up some wood bleach (oxalic acid). I like a solution of three tablespoons of powdered bleach with 16 ounces of hot water in a glass salsa jar. I use this bleach solution for removing iron stains when I steam-bend wood and then nail it (like when I make Shaker oval boxes).

Here's the ruler after I treated one scale with oxalic acid (at left). The right scale is untreated.

With rubber gloves on, I applied the bleach with a woven gray pad. Within a minute, the boxwood lightened considerably. But the ink on the rule stayed intact. Whew. I rinsed the rule in running water, allowed it to dry and applied two coats of wax.

Sorry tool collectors. You’re going to have to wait for another 50 years of patina before you can have this one. It’s going back to work.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Plow planes are some of the easiest joinery planes to use – once you know a few tricks to getting good results. I struggled with the tools until Don McConnell (now a planemaker at Clark & Williams) set me straight years ago with one simple piece of advice:

"Each hand should have a separate job," he said. "One hand holds the fence. The other pushes the tool forward."

Before that point, both of my hands were engaged in job sharing. My hand on the fence was also pushing forward. My hand on the tote was twisting the tool to keep the fence tight on the work.

Here are the other things I've learned about gripping a plow plane over the years:

1. It's a bit like sawing. The hand that holds the tote (or the stock) should be directly lined up with the cut and should swing free. Sometimes this means getting your body over the work (a low bench is helpful here). If your forearm is not in line with the skate of the tool, it's gonna be a roughie.

2. It's a bit like jointing an edge. For my fence hand, I wrap the web between my thumb and index finger around the stems (sometimes called posts) of the tool. I reach my fingers around the fence and touch the work and the front edge of the bench if possible. My thumb is pressing down. If you joint edges of boards by hand, you'll recognize this hand position immediately.

Workholding: Keep it Simple
There are lots of ways to hold your work for plowing. If your end vise and dogs are positioned near the front edge of the bench, you can usually pinch things directly between dogs. You also can use a sticking board, which is a little shelf that holds your work.

Or you can do what I do: Clamp a batten to the benchtop to brace the edge of your workpiece. And plow into the tip of a holdfast. This is very quick for plowing drawer parts – there's no clamping and unclamping and you can work with a bunch of different lengths easily.

Set the Fence
Set your plow's fence so it is parallel to the skate and the desired distance from your cutter. The most common cut I make is a 1/4"-wide groove that's 1/4" from the fence. Conveniently, the brass section on my folding rule is exactly 1/4" long, so it’s easy to set things at a glance.

Begin at the End
You can use a plow plane like a bench plane and make full strokes that run from the near end to the far end. But I have found this to be sometimes troublesome. Sometimes the cutter will follow the grain in the board and the tool's fence will drift away from the work. The results are ugly.

Instead, I start at the far end of the board and make short cuts. Each succeeding cut gets a little longer until I am making full-length cuts. The advantage to this is that if your plane wanders, it will only be for a short distance and the next cut will correct the error.

After you are making full-length cuts there's little danger of the tool wandering.

The shavings should be fairly thick – you don't want to do this all day. These shavings are .015" thick. I could probably go a little thicker in pine.

Results and Then…
When the tool stops cutting, you stop stroking. The edges of the groove might be a little furry – that's typical even for the best work. That's why I wait to smooth plane my pieces after I have grooved them. That removes the fur. Here's what the groove looks like when I'm done.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

A couple years ago I finally got to go to Winterthur, the DuPont's estate in Delaware that is a shrine to early American furniture. Right as our tour of the collection was about to begin, the docents segregated me from the gaggle of chattering blue-haired old ladies.

In retrospect, the docents were probably afraid I was going to mug them in the Marlboro Room.

In any case, it was a lucky turn of events. I and the two guys with me with were paired with our own personal docent for a tour. When she found out that two of us were furniture makers, she gave us little flashlights.

"I know your type," she said. "You're gonna crawl under the highboys."

And crawl like slugs we did. I learned a lot about casework that day, but the most lasting memory was getting to examine the sides of some of the grandest bonnet-top highboys I've ever seen. These were masterpieces of design. And yet, on almost all of them the side panels were split. Plus the panels would never pass muster in Ethan Allen. You could feel and see the regular scallops of the smoothing planes. Heck – the undulations were so regular and obvious that you could tell what width the craftsman's smoothing plane was.

And that was the most beautiful thing I saw all day.

Handplaned surfaces are not perfect. And thank goodness. They have a slight irregularity to them that I embrace. While it is entirely possible to tune a smoothing plane to produce a surface that looks like a machine dressed it (I'll do it at shows to impress the power-tool guys), that's not my goal. I aim to remove tear-out but to leave my mark.

So what does this look like?

Close up, it looks like crap. The photos above show every little detail of my work on a tabletop of the server I'm trying to complete this week. You can see how I angled my plane to begin my stroke, which reduces chatter at the beginning of a pass. You can see evidence of toolmarks everywhere when you get close enough.

When this top gets a finish on it (oil followed by lacquer), these hallmarks will become less obvious, but they will still be there for someone who knows how to look. For me, they are as telling about my work as my name that I'm going to stamp on the leg.

— Christopher Schwarz

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/8/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

If we haven't yet convinced you to abandon your family/job/comfortable retirement and head to Cincinnati on May 16-17, I hope this blog post will help you come to your senses. That weekend is the free Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event here at our magazine's editorial office.

But it's not just going to be me and Thomas Lie-Nielsen cooking weenies and shooting the shinola about bedding angles. The local chapter of the Society of American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM) has volunteered to give free demonstrations during the two days on a variety of topics. Here is the schedule:
 
Saturday, May 16            
Time    Demonstrator        Topic  
        
noon      Robert Crouse        Hollows & Rounds    
1 p.m.    Dave Heyer           Carving Acanthus leaves on a period chair
2 p.m.    Charles Murray     Bench Planes    
3 p.m.    Dan Reahard       Carving Fluted Quarter Columns
4 p.m.    Donna Hill            Inlay: Preparing Inlays and Sandshading
5 p.m.    Bob Compton
             & Jim Crammond    Chairmaking: Windsors
            
Sunday, May 17
Time    Demonstrator        Topic  
        
10 a.m. Mark Arnold           Inlay & banding    
noon     George Walker        Scratch beader    
2 p.m.   Donna Hill              Inlay: Preparing Inlays and Sandshading
4 p.m.   George Walker       Design: Incorporating Ornament in a Design

And lest you forget, we'll also have other toolmakers in addition to Lie-Nielsen at the event, both showing off their wares and showing you how to use them (the real heart of these events, I might add).

John Economaki
of Bridge City Tools. See the Jointmaker Pro (which we awarded a Best New Tool of 2008 award) in action.

Ron Hock of Hock Tools. Ron is a long-time bladesmith who is extremely knowledgeable about steels and sharpening. Ask him about his forthcoming book on sharpening tools.

Kevin Drake of Glen-Drake Tool Works. Kevin builds my favorite marking gauge of all time (the Tite-Mark), plus other thoughtful tools, including chisel hammers, plane hammers and the thought-provoking double-handled dovetail saw.

Ron Brese of Brese Planes. Ron makes incredible infill handplanes at down-to-earth prices. If you're in the market for an infill, he's should definitely be on your short list.

Bob Zajicek of Czeck Edge Hand Tool will be showing off his wares. He makes fantastic marking knives, awls and other tools.

Jameel Abraham of Benchcrafted will be showing his awesome wagon vise, plus I hear he has a new product in the works that is very interesting.

Need ideas for things for your family to do while you are enjoying yourself? Click here.

Again, you don't have to register. The event is free. Give up your will.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Reader Questions
Bookmark and Share

Milford Brown writes: Since you are interested in the older hand-powered woodworking, I wonder what, if anything, you know about the history of marking knife use?

I recently had occasion to dismantle an old pine blanket chest (because of extensive powderpost beetle damage in the sapwood edges of its top and bottom boards) that had been assembled with the later-style cut nails, and had hinges attached with screws that had no point, but with the top of the head showing circular machining marks, which from what I could find, dates it to somewhere after 1837.  

I found also that in places such as rabbets for corner joints and cuts to inset the hinges and the small inner compartment, the necessary lines had been cut rather deeply with a knife.  

The joiners that Joseph Moxon ("Mechanick Exercises") wrote about had pin-style marking gauges that followed an edge, but in either the original or your easy-to-read version, I didn't see anything about how other cuts were marked. According to the Wikipedia article on pencils, various writing sticks with graphite cores were available long before this chest, but its maker, as many now, preferred a knife. Web-searching for marking knives located a variety of modern products, such as the ones you wrote about, but I didn't find anything in the way of history. Did you?

Milford,

You're right that Moxon, a 17th-century source, doesn't mention a marking knife. He discusses the pricker, which seems to be an awl-like tool used for marking joints.

The earliest image of a marking knife that I'm aware of is from Joseph Smith's "Explanation or Key to the Various Manufactories of Sheffield" (shown above). It's a circa 1801 source. The striking knife shown there was the dominant form for many years – you can still find examples being made today that look like this (though I don't recommend the modern version).

I browsed through Andre Roubo's books this morning and couldn't find a marking knife (if someone else has found one, let me know). I did find a "la point a tracer," which translates as "scriber." Roubo's description says it is a round steel tool with a handle that comes to a peak. Sounds awl-ish to me.

I'll check my other books at home. If you know something, fess up in the comments.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Saws
Bookmark and Share

While teaching a class on handsawing a couple years ago, one student lost his cool. He was cutting a tenon for his sawbench, and he strayed over the line and the result looked rough to him. He grunted, threw his saw down with a clatter and stomped away from the bench.

The classroom got real quiet. This student was a big fella – he probably had 100 pounds of muscle on me, a ZZ Top beard and a short fuse. As he angled toward the classroom door to leave, I wasn’t sure what to do.

So I picked up one of his uncut legs, marked out the joint he needed and sawed it out without saying a word. I didn’t do it like when I teach (history, blah, blah, joke, blah, technical detail, blah, sidebar, blah, blah) where it takes 20 minutes to make a tenon. Instead, I cut it like I do it at home with the radio on. One tenon. One minute.

I left the tenon on the bench and walked away. I was a bit freaked about what would happen next. I was out of ideas. The other students walked up to see my work.

“I get it now,” one student said. “That’s what it looks like – from start to finish. That’s what the joint looks like at the end. That’s what I needed.”

The big guy came over for a look, too. I got him a new workpiece to replace his ruined one. The rest of the day went smoothly.

It’s easy to get intimidated by hand joinery. We expect it to look like router-cut joinery, or some trumped-up bit of fakery by photographers. The truth is that in some cases hand joinery looks better when compared to joints made by power tools and worse in others.

In my work, for example, I don’t go for slick end-grain surfaces. What’s the use? They offer little gluing strength. I focus on the getting the gluing surfaces flat and smooth. And I try to get the fit as close as I can.

But don’t we all? What does this really look like?

Now that we have a macro lens at the magazine, I’ve started taking photos of things that our lenses couldn’t show before, such as close-ups of joinery surfaces.

Here’s what a casework dovetail looks like that I cut two weeks ago. It’s for a sideboard for the Summer 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine.

In the first shot above you can see how things are pretty clean, but nothing like a router-cut surface. I cut that rabbet on one of the faces of the piece to make it easier to lay out the mating socket.

In the second shot, this is how things looked right before I knocked the dovetail home. Yes, the end grain looks rough. Yes, that’s some junk in the corners. I could pare it with a chisel, but why bother?

And third, you can see the end result. The fit is OK around the dovetail – nothing like you see on a magazine cover. There's a gap at the back shoulder I could slip a playing card into. But the joint is tight at the front shoulder, which is all that will ever show. I am done and ready to move to the other side of this joint.

I hope this helps you – like my frustrated mountain man student – to relax a bit when it comes to sawing joints.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

When I glue up panels from several narrow boards, I use my jointer plane to dress all the mating edges. While our power jointer is fairly well tuned, it's rarely perfect – we have a busy shop. So I find it easier to dress my edges by hand than to fuss with the powered jointer.

My jointer plane has a cambered iron, which allows me to correct an out-of-square edge. (I'll cover this in a future blog post after I pick up some Kevlar undergarments to protect me from the flak.)

Until I mastered using a cambered iron in my jointer plane, I used to use a straight iron and a jointer plane fence to dress my edges. I still use a jointer plane fence on occasion when I only have one or two chances at getting an edge dead-nuts square.

There are two kinds of commercial jointer plane fences. The more common one now is the Veritas Jointer Fence, which attaches to the plane with two rare earth magnets and a post that wedges the whole thing on your plane's sidewall. This fence works with almost any bench plane, though I usually use it with a plane the size of a jack or a jointer (14" to 22" long).

The other kind of fence is like the discontinued Stanley No. 386. This fence attaches to the plane using thumbscrews. The nice thing about the No. 386 is that you can set it for a wide range of angles and it has a knob that I find useful for the edge-jointing process. The other nice thing about the No. 386 is that I can use it with a cambered iron because the fence is under the sole of the tool. The fence centers the plane over a typical edge, where the cambered iron is basically straight. (You can do this with the Veritas fence by adding a wooden block to the fence.)

The No. 386 can be tough to find in the wild. St. James Bay Tool Co. makes one that is similar, but I haven't tried it.

How to Joint Edges With a Fence
Just like with using a power jointer, there is some technique involved in using a jointer plane fence.

Things to watch: The cutter has to be sticking out of the tool dead square. This is why I learned to use a curved iron in my jointer plane – it's actually a more forgiving setup than using a straight iron.

Second: Use your dominant hand to push the plane forward and your off-hand to control the fence. With your off-hand, use your thumb to push the toe down against the edge and use your fingers to push the fence against the face of your board.

Third: What you have to understand about handplanes is that the tool's cutter sticks out below the sole of the tool. As a result, the tool takes a slightly heavier cut at the beginning of the pass when only part of the plane is on the edge.

Last week I tried to measure this by edge jointing a 30"-long board and then measuring the shaving's thickness at five points along its length. At the beginning of the cut (toe engaged only) my cuts were consistently .0055" thick. In the middle and end of the cut the shaving was .005" thick.

That is not much difference. But it can add up. After several strokes the edge develops a gentle curve to it. And that's no good for gluing.

So here's what I do: First remove some of the middle section of the edge. I start the cut a few inches in from the end of the board, and I end the cut a few inches from the end. I'll usually take two passes like this. (This is similar to what David Charlesworth does, though I believe he continues to make passes until the plane stops cutting.)

Then I take a pass all the way through the edge. If I get one perfect unbroken shaving, I'll test the edge with a straightedge or the board's mating edge. If the edge is perfect or is a little hollow in the middle, I'll get the glue and the clamps. If the edge still bulges, I'll remove another shaving in the middle.

One more thing: Some woodworkers poo-poo the jointer plane fence. As Senior Editor Bob Lang might say: "You might as well show up on the job site wearing a dress."

Well since today is "National Tartan Day," I think you can get away with it.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/3/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

I noticed the head on my trusty Hamilton hammer was loose last weekend as I was driving a bunch of nails (good thing I have an extra hammer or two). This morning I decided to do something about it.

Conventional wisdom is that the head works loose because of the shock that the tool is subjected to daily. Sounds conventional. Sounds wise. But R. Bruce Hoadley, author of "Understanding Wood," claims otherwise. He says it is the continuous cycle of seasonal expansion and contraction that results in the handle shrinking out.

In either case, the fix is the same in my shop. First I probe around in the head to find an area of the handle that I'm certain is wood. I'm going to be driving a chisel down there, so I don't want any metallic surprises.

The adze eye here is 1/2" wide, so I need a wedge that is that same width.

Make a Wedge
I tighten up my heads with wooden wedges. You can buy metal ones at the store, but I have lots of wood. I scrounged up a piece of 1/2"-thick maple (ash, oak or hickory are all good choices as well). Then I crosscut off a piece about 3/4" long.

I created the wedge on the band saw. I have a little sled that presents the wood to the blade at 7° (you can set your saw's miter gauge and attach an auxiliary fence if you like). You cut one end of your stock, flip it and cut the other. The result is a wedge with a 14° taper. Make a bunch of wedges and find the one that comes to the finest point.

Chisel Down
Fetch a 1/2"-wide chisel. Not the nice one; the other one that belongs to your neighbor. Secure your hammer with clamps or in a vise and drive the chisel as deeply as you can into the adze eye. Don't be shy here.

Remove the chisel, turn it around and drive it in again. When you are done, this is about what it should look like.

Glue and Wedge
Apply glue to the chiseled slot in your handle and on both faces of the wedge. (I use yellow glue.) Drive the wedge in as deeply as you can.

This is why you need two hammers in your shop. This is exactly what got me in trouble in the first place. (See "Daddy has a hammer problem" for details.)  

Wait for the glue to cure and trim the excess with a chisel or saw. Now you're ready for another beating.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

In my kindergarten class, someone was snitching cookies from the lunchboxes of the rest of the class. (Spoiler alert: It was the fat kid.) While the teacher's investigation was ongoing, she gave us a speech that I still remember.

"I once had a student who stole cookies," she said. "Then he stole lunch money. Then he stole money from his parent's wallets…."

Long pause. "Then he robbed a gas station."

If you are still in the "smoothing plane" (stealing cookies) stage of your slide into handtools, let me give you a peek at some of bad deeds you'll be committing against your family's checkbook in the years ahead. First stop: plow planes.

Plow planes make grooves in the edges and faces of stock, which is great for frame-and-panel work. They also can be adjusted to make the tongue on a tongue-and-groove joint. And they are great for wasting away stock when you are making decorative moulding with moulding planes.

There are many different kids of plow planes, but I think there really are two families: the wooden plows and the metal plows. And their differences are in more than the raw materials used to make them.

Because that's the most obvious difference, however, let's start there.

Metal vs. Wooden Bodies
If you're buying a used plow, the metal ones are usually in better shape than the wooden ones. And the metal ones can usually be resurrected a little more easily. That's because the wooden body of a plow can warp (very difficult to fix), and the wooden wedge that secures the iron can be frozen in its mortise or can be so modified that it is useless.

That said, I always prefer a wooden grip on a plane, so the metal grips aren't my favorite. Heck I've thought about wrapping some friction tape around the handles to improve the feedback.

Where the Shavings Go
In use, the biggest difference for me is where each tool's shavings go. On the metal plows, the shavings eject into the fence and the user's hand. This is annoying because many times the shavings bunch up like a wad of toilet paper in the fence and you have to stop your work and clear things out.

On the wooden plows, the shavings are ejected away from the user and onto the benchtop. I have yet to find a disadvantage to this way of work – except that you have to sweep off your bench once in a while.

About that Fence
The fence on a metal plow is usually secured with two thumbscrews. Because of the tight tolerances when the tool is made, it's usually simple for the user to get the fence parallel to the tool's skate – a critical detail.

With wooden plows, it's all over the map. Fences can be fantastic or one step above semi-adjustable firewood. The bridle mechanism on my D.L. Barrett & Sons plow is perfection. It's better than a metal plow. One thumbscrew locks everything, and it's always parallel to the skate.

However, most of the wooden plows you'll find have two wooden screws that adjust the fence (or sometimes wedges do the job). With the two wooden screws, it's a bit more of a hassle to get things parallel. Plus, sometimes these screws are damaged beyond saving.

Different Depth Stops
On a metal plow, the depth stop is on the side of the skate that is opposite the fence. On the wooden plow, the depth stop is between the fence and skate. I haven't found either to be troublesome, but you do have to pay attention to your work. You don’t want to waste away part of the wood that you are going to need your depth stop to contact on a later cut.

I work with both tools and find that they both do everything a woodworker needs. The choice of tool comes down to:

• How much you can spend
• What is available in your area
• How much work you want to put into the tool
• And which form makes you drive by Texaco stations that aren't on your way home.

— Christopher Schwarz  


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 4/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Despite the fact that monkeys were as rare as hen's teeth in the mountains of Arkansas, the highest praise for intelligence there was to be called a "clever monkey."

To wit: "When Clem saw the Law, he slammed on brakes. That clever monkey got out of a speeding ticket by saying he was trying to stomp a sweat bee."

But I digress. This month I'm reviewing new drawbore pins from four manufacturers for the Summer 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine. One of the new entrants to the field is Lee Valley – its drawbore pins will be available in the next couple weeks at a special introductory price ($49 a pair).

When company officials sent me a couple for evaluation, they also sent a disassembled one so I could see how it was made (and presumably to keep me from sawing apart their pre-production models). It is cool. Monkey cool.

The stainless steel shaft passes entirely through the octagonal bubinga handle. And the tool is capped at the top with a strike button. Though you normally don't need to strike drawbore pins, some people do.

The metal shaft is barbed to grab onto the inside of the handle. And it has a rubberish O-ring. Company officials were quick to point out the function of the O-ring. It is not a shock absorber (like leather between the bolster and handle of a chisel). Instead, it is an assembly aid at the factory.

The handles are epoxied on. When the cap is screwed in place, there is enough vacuum pressure to cause the epoxy to squirt out the bottom of the handle. Hence, the O-ring to seal things up.

The engineering is extremely clever, all-in-all. And though I won't say which of the new tools I prefer (you'll have to read the Summer 2009 issue for that), I will say that I favor the Lee Valley's handle.

It should come as no surprise that around the office, one of the highest praises for intelligence is: "Clever Canadians."

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 4/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

There is no single best way to set a bench plane to take a proper shaving. I’ve seen people do it by eye, with their fingertips, using scraps of wood and even working on live stock and making adjustments on the fly. This last technique takes guts. It’s like working on a car while the engine’s running.

I’ve tried every single method above and can do them all with great ease. There is no secret to unlock any particular method. Only practice.

The following is how I prefer to set a bench plane to take a shaving. It’s in more detail than I usually go into on the blog, but here’s the dirty little secret about that: The reason I started writing this blog in 2005 was to create a way for me to answer common e-mail questions. Want to know the difference between bevel-up and bevel-down planes? Instead of answering that question six times a week, I could paste this link into an e-mail six times a week instead. Oh, and the blog would serve as a way to remember when I got my last tetanus shot.

Before we get to the good part, let me shove a little dogma down the disposal with the evening’s chicken bones. All of my bench planes (the fore, jointer and smoothing planes) have irons with curved cutting edges (so does my block plane, but that’s another entry). I camber the cutting edge to keep the corners from digging into the work and to allow me to remove material from selective areas on a board. People who disagree with my approach are encouraged to come to our shop in May for the Lie-Nielsen show with their torches and pitchforks.

The good news is that the way I set a bench plane works for any plane (even joinery planes and moulding planes). So don’t flee yet.

Step One: Kentucky Windage
The goal is to get the iron centered in the mouth of the plane. The strongest part of the curved edge should be in the middle of the mouth, and the corners of the iron should be tucked safely into the body of the plane. If your curve is too pronounced, you’ll take too narrow a shaving. If your curve is too flat, the corners will still dig in.



First you want to sight down the sole of the plane. Gaze at the toe of the sole and advance the iron until it appears as a black line across the sole. If your bench is light in color, you can use the benchtop as a background. If your bench is bubinga, do this against a sheet of paper.

Adjust the iron laterally until the black line appears consistent across the mouth. The camber on a smoothing plane and jointer plane isn’t really visible, so you’re looking for a consistent line.

Use a Scrap to Refine
Retract the iron into the body of the plane and start advancing it. Use a small shim (1/16" x 3/4" x 1-1/4" is nice) and run it across the mouth of the plane as you advance the iron a bit. Where the iron is cutting, you’ll feel it drag against the shim. It’s not dramatic – more like a tug. I first got this trick from David Charlesworth. Thank you, David.

Where do I get my shims? Well you could send me $20 and I'll send you a bag of them. Or you could look in your garbage can for waste that has fallen off from your rip cuts.

The end result is that you want to feel zero drag at the corners of the mouth and a little drag right at the center. You can adjust the iron using the lateral adjustment lever (if you have one), but I prefer hammer taps using a small Warrington or tack hammer. These are love taps and are unlikely to mushroom your iron. I’ve been tapping one iron on one smoothing plane for about five years. I’ve almost used up the entire iron and still have yet to find a mark from my tapping.

Final Adjustments
Then I start planing – either on scrap or live stock. Likely the shaving is too thin. And that’s OK. Advance the iron until you get the shaving you want from the plane. Then take a quick look at the shaving and where it is coming from in the mouth.

The shaving should be centered in the plane’s mouth. And the shaving should look like this: It should be thickest in the center and fade away to nothing at the edges. And it should be as wide as possible. That’s the sweet spot.

If I’m a little off-center at this point, I simply tap the iron with my baby hammer to move the shaving into the center of the mouth. Then I get busy.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Here at Woodworking Magazine, we plan each issue in the same way we build furniture – to last forever.

Every issue is filled with techniques that have been tested by our own hands and by time. Every project has classic lines so they'll look as good in 100 years as they do today.

And so you can keep this information forever, we bind the issues into a handsome hardbound edition that will protect and preserve these articles for years to come. We're just about to receive our newest book, which contains Issues 8 through 12, and we're offering a special pre-order discount.

If you order the "Woodworking Magazine Hardbound Edition, Vol. II," by April 30, the price is only $19.99. That's 20 percent off the regular price of $24.99. To get the 20 percent discount, use this coupon code: WWMGV220.

The 192-page book contains issues 8 through 12 exactly as published. The text and photos are printed on paper that's heavy and bright. The book is hardbound with a red cloth cover with the magazine's name stamped in gold. Plus, there's a full-color dust jacket.

Here are some of the highlights from these five issues:

• The Holtzapffel Workbench. This 19th-century cabinetmaker's workbench features a wooden twin-screw face vise and a quick-release end vise. It is an ideal bench for dovetailing and building furniture.

• How to Use a Handsaw. Most people have difficulty sawing because they are using the wrong tool and the wrong technique. We explain the differences among the saws and the 10 techniques we use for accurate sawing.

• Better Ways to Build a Chest.
When people build chests, they usually make it harder than it has to be. We explain a traditional technique to build chests that requires less wood, less work and less fussing.

• Test of Sliding Bevel Gauges.
Most bevel gauges stink because they don't lock down hard enough. We review new and vintage bevel gauges and find the ones that work best.

Be sure to order before April 30 to get the discounted price. To get the 20 percent discount, use this coupon code: WWMGV220. Click here to order.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

So if your workbench lost in our "Most Pathetic Workbench" contest, is that a good thing? It's time to let the Internet decide!

We've posted all 121 photos of the entries we received for the contest on Flickr.com. No names were used, as promised. And then, while I was bored one afternoon (hey, it happens) I added snide comments about each bench.

And here's the fun part: You can add your own comments as well. All the photos are on Flickr.com, so if you have an account (they're free) you can add your two cents. Don't agree with who we chose as our prize winners? Let us know. Have something funnier to say about a bench? Put it up there.

I think the great thing about this collection of photos is that after viewing it, I will never ever complain about any of the workbenches I've ever worked on. Here's the other thing I learned: Behind every pathetic workbench is a tenacious (perhaps parsimonious) woodworker.

Start viewing the workbenches by clicking here.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/27/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Last month I got to visit Roy Underhill's new school in Pittsboro, N.C. (read about my visit here). One of the coolest parts of the visit was getting to try out his foot-powered table saw and grinder.

I've used a spring-pole lathe before while building greenwood chairs, but I'd never used a treadle-powered table saw. It was a humbling experience (crow begins here).

The correct rhythm is slow and steady. As you can hear in the video, it sounds like I'm trying to square dance while smashing cockroaches. Yet, the saw still cut fairly well until the end of the cut.

As I was using the saw, I couldn't help but ponder its similarities to the Bridge City JointMaker Pro, which uses meat power to make your cuts. The major difference between these two machines is that the treadle saw can do long rips (there's a crank that a helper monkey turns). The cut on the treadle saw is pretty good, but nothing like the glassy smooth surface left by the JointMaker.

Roy shot this short video. I'm just grateful he didn't shoot video of me using his grinder. That was humiliating.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Miniature maker David Brookshaw is wearing out the zoom icon on my copy of Photoshop. His 1/12 scale model of a gentleman's cabinet shop is just amazing. Download the photos below and take a close look for yourself.

Be sure to check out the Lancashire-pattern hack saw on the wall (the tensioning nut works). Take a look at the working handsaws on the wall. And the plans for a rosewood Baltimore Hall chair on the drawing slope.

A couple details from Brookshaw: The drive shaft of the wheel lathe passes through the wall. Outside is a crank you can turn tot make the lathe spin. And the ruler and the square are made using ivory veneers on old piano keys.

There's more to see at David's web site, including the tool chest for this shop.

Gents workshop 7.JPG (648.93 KB)

Gents workshop 11.JPG (645.84 KB)

Rosewood 2.JPG (665.08 KB)

Tool rack.JPG (619.77 KB)


— Christopher Schwarz, who really has to get back to work now.



Posted 3/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

It’s hard to fathom, but if I’d made a slightly different guess one summer before 10th grade, then I might have ended up taking portraits of your kid’s baseball team.

When I was a boy, I had a few passions that drove me to distraction. I loved building stuff and wanted to be an architect. Every day I messed with my blocks, my Legos and my sketchpad of house designs. I also was consumed with photography. I had my own darkroom, I took classes at the local college and I was head photographer at my school paper.

For several years, it looked like I was headed into the photography trade. And so I was taken in by a local portrait studio to work in the lab. It was an apprenticeship. I and another boy spent our first weeks there cleaning the lab. We washed the owner’s car (with kerosene!), we emptied the stop bath tank. We tended the garbage. We sorted portraits into envelopes.

After proving we could empty the trash without turning on a light (very important in a lab), we were trusted to load the film into the processing machines and make contact prints. And this is where I looked like a god. I had a darkroom at home and could do all the lab stuff quickly and unerringly.

The other apprentice struggled with the hand and technical skills. But he was good looking, good natured and quick with a joke. I did my best work by myself and in the dark.

One day, the head photographer at the studio took us both outside on a sunny day. He handed us each a Hasselblad, the expensive medium-format camera the studio used to take its portraits. It didn’t have a built-in light meter. The photographer told each of us to set our camera's shutter speed and f-stop to take a photo of him in front of a tree.

We had to divine the right setting for the environment and hand the camera back to him. The person who got it right would be apprenticed to him for the next year to learn the trade in the field and the studio. The loser would have to stay in the lab for the summer and then his job would end.

It was a long summer alone in the dark lab. And when I began high school the next year (as pale as typing paper) I took a job with a fish market (ensuring that I would never get a date with a girl with a sense of smell) and I decided that I should start writing for the school newspaper, as well as take photos.

That choice led me into journalism – another trade and another test. That test also took three months, and I passed (barely, I might add).

What does this have to do with woodworking? Plenty. I’ve been reading about the trades a lot lately and have been wondering about the tests that moved an apprentice to a journeyman to a master. I met a German master a few years ago in Las Vegas who told me about the tests he had to pass to achieve each of these levels of competency. To become a journeyman, he had to build a certain piece of furniture in a certain amount of time.

To become a master he had to first design a certain piece of furniture, then build it in a certain amount of time.

I would love to see photos and drawings of some of these “test” projects. Wouldn’t they make a cool article for the magazine? If you have some, drop me a line.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share
I've seen better workbenches in prisons. Really.

And that's not a criticism of the more than 100 woodworkers (and their spouses) who entered our "Most Pathetic Workbench Contest." In truth, it's high praise. Many of the entrants also included photos of the projects they completed on their "benches."

As I've said 100 times, you don't need a good workbench to do great work. However, it does help make things easier. And that's why we put together our "Shops and Workbenches" CD of 62 of our favorite articles on building benches, setting up your shop and filling it with the jigs you need. (You can see a slideshow of the contents of our $15 CD here.)

All of the seven winners in this blog entry will win the new CD. And one – our grand-prize winner – will receive the CD, plus an autographed copy of my 2007 book "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use." Plus an autographed copy of Robert W. Lang's "Build the 21st Century Workbench" DVD.

So without further blathering, here are the runners-up and some comments on them. (The big winner is the last one.)

Jesse's Triple-Pallet Dungeon Bench
We had several entrants that were cobbled together from a pallet. But Jesse used three pallets. Also, several staff members liked the crypt-like atmosphere. We had to do some serious Photoshop work to get a good look at the photo.

Your Favorite Neighbor's Workbench
This is just one of Kevin's benches (he has a nicer one on the wall), but this one has the best base. I want to build my next deck with this guy.

It's a Bench. It's a Boat. It's Garbage.
Kyle's bench is a bit lightweight. And that was a good thing. When Hurricane Ike hit, Kyle's shop filled with 6' of water and his bench floated through the disaster. Sadly, his bench succumbed to mold and had to be pitched.

I Guess Cardboard Was Wood at One Time
This bench (sent in by the spouse) is used for working both wood and clay. Phyllis explained that it's quite tidy because it's in their two-bedroom apartment. The boxes are both a work surface and tool storage.

The World is Your Bench
Eric works overseas (follow his blog at adventuresinwoodworking.com), and I'm always amazed at what he does with what he has. My favorite is the "balcony bench." This one probably won't shimmy.

The Highest Number of Pathetic Benches
Travis misunderstood the contest, I think. We were looking for one pathetic bench. He has six of them. The washer-dryer bench. The log-shaped bench hook. The log-shaped planing stop. The garbage-can twin assembly tables. And the thing that looks like a small mammal.

The Self-cleaning Bench
This is the grand-prize winner. What clinched it for me was the vise. Clearly, Roger is in it for the long haul with this bench and needs our help. Some of the staff questioned if this was a real bench. Perhaps it was staged. Roger said he cleaned the bench right before the photo by simply lifting the top and sliding its contents to the garbage. Congratulations Roger. Once you get your prizes, you're on the hook to build a bench.

Next week we'll post a slideshow of the rest of the entrants. Did your spouse enter your bench in our contest? You'll have to wait and see.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/24/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

My grandfather’s folding rule reads from right to left, while my tape measure reads from left to right. I never thought much about it, though I always did like using my folding rule when measuring the distance between the table saw’s rip fence and the blade because of this characteristic.

Then last week a reader pointed out that a new folding ruler from Holland reads from left to right – like a modern tape measure. Argh. It was a mystery that only a tool collector could unravel.

So I picked up a copy of “A Sourcebook for Rule Collectors” (Astragal Press) by Philip E. Stanley. What a delightful geek-fest. I have been consuming the thing all evening. (I even got a little chicken piccata on the cover, which explains its lemony-fresh smell.)

If you are even mildly interested in the history of measurement, this 286-page book will delight you. Not only does the book cover the different kinds of rules (carriagemaker’s rules, gear rules, glazier’s rules), it also discusses in detail how they were made. (It’s a very involved process.) And there are interesting articles on the origin of historical measurement systems, including the European units of length before the metric system.

But does the book have the answer to the question? An article by Kenneth D. Roberts in the book has this to say:

“A peculiar difference between American and English folding rules is that the former read from right to left; whereas the latter read from left to right. No known authoritative explanation has yet to be found to account for this difference. It is suggested that it was simply a matter of custom, similar to driving on different sides of the road.”

Another writer in the book notes that some English rules read from right to left.

So really, this is one for Leonard Nimoy to figure out.

— Christopher Schwarz

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Make plans to be in Cincinnati on May 16-17, 2009, for a free woodworking show at our offices here at Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine.

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks'
traveling Hand Tool Event is coming to Cincinnati. There will be free demos, tours of our shop and plenty of time to ask questions about setting up and using hand tools.

In addition to Lie-Nielsen, there are several other toolmakers planning on exhibiting at the show, including:

John Economaki of Bridge City Tools. See the Jointmaker Pro (which we awarded a Best New Tool of 2008 award) in action.

Ron Hock of Hock Tools
. Ron is a long-time bladesmith who is extremely knowledgeable about steels and sharpening. Ask him about his forthcoming book on sharpening tools.

Kevin Drake of Glen-Drake Tool Works. Kevin builds my favorite marking gauge of all time (the Tite-Mark), plus other thoughtful tools, including chisel hammers, plane hammers and the thought-provoking double-handled dovetail saw.

Ron Brese of Brese Planes. Ron makes incredible infill handplanes at down-to-earth prices. If you're in the market for an infill, he's should definitely be on your short list.

Bob Zajicek of Czeck Edge Hand Tool
will be showing off his wares. He makes fantastic marking knives, awls and other tools.

Jameel Abraham of Benchcrafted
will be showing his awesome wagon vise, plus I hear he has a new product in the works that is very interesting.

And the entire magazine staff will be there. Senior Editor Glen D. Huey will be demonstrating how to hand cut dovetails (pins-first). Senior Editor Robert W. Lang will be demonstrating how to cut through-mortises. And Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick will be reciting bawdy early modern poems on the hour.

I'll be there, too, showing off drawboring, advanced nailing (yes, it exists), sharpening, sawing, stock preparation and running at the mouth (my best skill).

As a bonus, we'll have some great workbenches there for you to examine and use. Lie-Nielsen Toolworks is bringing some of its benches. Plus there will be Glen's Shaker workbench, Bob's modern workbench and my Roubo. And if Megan gets her act together, you'll be able to see her new bench that we're helping design that uses a very unusual material.

Be sure to bring the family. We're one block from the area's biggest upscale mall. And Cincinnati has lots of excellent attractions (Megan has written about them here), good watering holes and great restaurants (I'll follow up with my favorite list in a couple weeks).

You don't have to register. Just show up. The hours are noon-6 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday; admission is free. So set your GPS for 4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, OH, 45236. Or use this handy Google map to plan your trip. We hope you can make it.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share


Cincinnati is a great destination for vacations, whether you’re feeding your tool habit at the Lie-Nielsen show May 16-17, or your tummy (the Queen City is home to Graeter’s, Oprah's favorite ice cream, and Montgomery Inn Ribs, Bob Hope’s favorite, as well as several world-class restaurants).

Just a block away from our office is Kenwood Towne Centre, Cincinnati’s premier shopping destination with 180 specialty retailers including Williams-Sonoma, J. Crew, Coach, as well as three department stores. But if antiques are more up your alley, it’s a short trip to both Waynesville and Lebanon where you’ll discover architectural gems as well as many of the best antique shops in the metro area.

For family fun, visit the Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden (rated one of the best zoos in the nation), pet the sharks at the Newport Aquarium, or spend the day at the Kings Island amusement park or the Great Wolf Lodge indoor water park. Cincinnati is also home to a wide range of museums, including three at the historic Union Terminal: Duke Energy Children’s Museum, Museum of Natural History & Science and the Cincinnati History Museum, and the Robert D. Lindner Family OMNIMAX Theater.

The Cincinnati Art Museum, located in beautiful Eden Park, offers free admission to see more than 60,000 objects, spanning 6,000 years of world art. Also in Eden Park is Krohn Conservatory, a nationally recognized showcase of more than 1,000 plant species from around the world. And in downtown Cincinnati, you’ll find the Taft Museum of Art, The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, The Cincinnati Fire Museum, the Contemporary Arts Center and more.

For more information on Cincinnati and her attractions (and a hotel locator), visit cincinnatiusa.com. And to return to the Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Traveling Hand Tool Event post, click here.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


Posted 3/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

After much tribulation, the Spring 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine is in the mail stream and arriving in homes in the Midwest this week. Depending on the speed and reliability of your local post office, I think you should expect to see your copy in the coming week.

Thank you for your patience.

If I told about you the perfect storm of mishaps, miscommunications and missteps, you would think I was misleading you or missing a few fries from my Happy Meal.

In any case, I hope you find the issue worth your wait.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Blacksmith David Maydole was the SawStop of the 19th century.

Sometimes hammerheads would fly loose from their handles on the job site. This could be troublesome or deadly because occasionally the steel head would strike a fleshy one (the steel usually wins this competition).

So there were many efforts to improve how the tool's head affixes to the handle. One early and successful method was to add metal straps that kept the head and handle together. Sometimes these straps were forged from the hammerhead itself. Sometimes they were added separately. In either case, the straps were then riveted through the wooden handle.

This worked (lots of strapped hammers survive). But there are disadvantages. These tools require more labor to make. Plus, replacing the handle is inconvenient because of the rivet.

Then, as legend has it, blacksmith David Maydole of Norwich, N.Y., began experimenting with metal and the shape of the hammer's head. Hammerheads that are too soft get deformed. Heads that are too hard will split. Maydole found a happy medium: the hammer's interior was soft and the exterior was hard – like a lobster.

But that's not what made Maydole famous. History remembers Maydole because of the hole he made in the hammerhead. He made the hole longer, adding a metal neck below the head, which is the form that is familiar to all of us today. And he shaped the hole like one found in an adze: At the top the hole is wider and it gets narrower at the neck. Once this hole is wedged up, the handle is much more secure.

The joint is not, however, bulletproof. I have had several Maydoles that had loose heads. I have not, however, had one fly off the handle. (That is allegedly where the expression comes from.)

When Maydole's hammers were first sold in 1840, carpenters were delighted.

"(H)e could hammer away with confidence, and without fear of seeing the head of his hammer leap into the next field unless stopped by a comrade's head," according to the 1873 account "A Captain of Industry."

I've got lots of these so-called adze-eye hammers. Plus I have some earlier ones with a straight hole (including one that flew off on a backstroke – very exciting). But I've never owned a strapped hammer.

I remedied that omission last week by purchasing the hammer in the photo above and have been using it on a side project that has hundreds of nails. The strapped hammers I've seen tend to have longer handles – this one is no exception. And many of them have an interesting and elegant swelling at the base of the handle (this one does not).

How does it work? Like a rock on a stick. That's my highest praise.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

A few weeks ago I made some people upset by hitting some handplanes with a hammer in this video to see what they were made of. In the "test" I destroyed a junky Stanley No. 3.

Today I had to settle up in the karma department.

I was installing drawer dividers in a cabinet and was using a combination square to position a vertical divider just so. I put the combination square on my benchtop and reached for another part when my General square fell to the floor. Its 12" rule leaped out of the head and hopped under my bench.

I picked up the pieces and put them back together. The head wouldn't grab the blade. I adjusted the locking nut and tried again. No joy. Then I noticed that the fall to the floor caused the square's locking tab to snap off.

So now I'm out of a square until I can get a new part ordered. The only other combination squares I can find in our shop today are the "loaner" ones. The good ones are are pulling an Anne Frank, apparently.

I swear I'll never pummel a plane again. OK, are we even now?

—  Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

If you'd like to do a little time traveling on your lunch hour today, I've got just the ticket. Head over to Gary Robert's Toolemera Press site and download (for free) "Charles Hayward Looks Back To The Seamy Side."

No, you won't get in trouble with your boss or your spouse. It's very much rated G.

These articles from 1981 and 1982 are Charles Hayward's recollections of shop life in England before 1914. Hayward, the legendary woodworking editor and author, wrote and illustrated many of the classic texts that still serve me today, including "Woodwork Joints" and "Tools for Woodwork." (Both are out of print but available used.)

But before he became an author, Hayward was an apprentice and a professional cabinetmaker in a colorful shop that built new furniture, performed repairs and made new furniture look like really old furniture (yes, that's a nice way of saying he made fakes).

The shop was populated by all manner of amusing characters, which Hayward describes in great detail. Plus there's a drunken girl fight, dangerous machine shops and snooty butlers.

It's a fun piece to read and probably will make you glad that:

1. You were not born as Pongo the shop boy.

2. That you do woodworking as a hobby, and not as a career in 1914 England.

Download the article (in pdf format) by clicking here.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Anyone who has worked with me for about five minutes knows that I really like chamfers on my work. Stop chamfers, such as those found on early English and American work, are particularly attractive to my eye.

I also like through-chamfers, and my favorite tool for making those is the Veritas Chamfer Guide. This $22 accessory for the Veritas Block Planes is beyond clever. It beats up and steals the lunch money of traditional chamfer planes. I have a nice English version of one of these old planes that I bought years ago from Patrick Leach, and it just does not compare.

The genius of the Veritas guide – patented in 2003 – is that you can set it to make chamfers up to 1/2" wide with unerring precision. Set the guide to the chamfer you want. Keep stroking until the plane stops cutting. Victory!

There is one downside to the guide: Veritas doesn't make it for other brands of block planes. I'm sure it would be a nightmare for the company to offer it for other brands because there are as many kinds of block planes as there are flavors of gum.

I tried fitting the Veritas guide to some of the Stanley block planes in my shop and could find only one (the venerable Stanley No. 65) where this worked well. The only problem with the retrofit on the Stanley No. 65 was that I had to scavenge a knob off my Veritas plane to prevent the host from rejecting the transplant. So that's not much of a solution.

So if you do have a Veritas block plane, I highly recommend this attachment. If you don't own the plane, I highly recommend you try freehanding things. This weekend I was planing some chamfers sans Veritas and used my old Sandusky jack plane instead.

My chamfers weren't as tidy, but they looked good enough. And the nice thing was I could do the chamfers at any angle, not just 45°. To make the chamfers, I laid out the two lines – one on the face of the board and one on the edge – with a marking gauge. Then I went to town with the jack. When I got close to my scribe lines, I switched to a plane that took a fine cut to finish the chamfer.

Both techniques work better (for me) than a router with a chamfer bit, which can leave nasty chatter marks that have to be sanded or planed out anyway.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Because of my unholy obsession with interest in workbenches, people send me photos of the beautiful benches they've built. They're like baby photos, and I keep them all.

Sometimes, these kind souls also send me photos of what they were working on before they built their dream bench. I've seen hollow-core doors on plastic sawhorses. A changing table converted to a workbench. A sorrowful stack of cinderblocks.

There have to be some even more pathetic workbenches out there, and we decided to hold a contest to find the photo of the lamest woodworking bench ever. The "winner" of our contest will receive all the resources he or she needs to design a first-class workbench, including:

1. A copy of our new "The Best of Shops & Workbenches" CD that contains plans for 10 workbenches, plus 11 of our best articles from the last 10 years on setting up shop and plans for 37 jigs and toolboxes. This CD, which arrived in our warehouse last week, is just $15 and contains our best writing on workshop issues. The CD is fully searchable and printable.

2. An autographed copy of my 2007 book "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use." This book walks you through the design process for any workbench and helps you pick the workholding you need and discard the features you'll never use. Plus, it includes plans for two nearly vanished workbenches, including my French Roubo-style bench. It's a $30 value.

3. An autographed copy of Robert W. Lang's "Build the 21st Century Workbench" DVD. This hour-long video shows you how Lang designed and built the bench that he now uses in the shop at Woodworking Magazine. The DVD also contains a digital SketchUp model of the bench, slideshows of its construction and additional printable drawings. It's a $20 value.

Here's what you have to do to win. Take a photo of your workbench. It has to obviously be a working bench – don't try to fool us by taking pictures of a card table. E-mail it to me at chris.schwarz@fwmedia.com with the subject line "My Pathetic Workbench" before midnight on Monday, March 23, 2009.

The editors will review all the entries and pick the one that we think is the saddest, most pathetic workbench. We'll announce the "winner" in our March 25 e-mail newsletter (and here on the blog).

We'll also publish a rogues' gallery of the winner and the runners-up (don't worry, no names will be used) plus the judges' comments on your entry.

This could be just the excuse you need to get off your duff and design your dream bench. So fire up the camera and good luck!

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. That "workbench" at the top of this entry? That's Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick's bench at home. It's the kitchen table from her house as a child. Megan, however qualified, is not eligible to win this contest.


Posted 3/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Some of the best workholding ideas rely on simple wedging action. This weekend I stumbled onto one more great wedging trick using cut nails.

This might be old hat for you. If so, forgive my waste of bandwidth (which should be the motto of my blog).

I’m creating some wide panels from narrow boards using an early woodworking technique of nailing cross-stretchers across the joints of the panel. There’s no glue involved in this panel. And no Bessey K-bodies, either.

The technique calls for placing your boards on your bench and securing them edge-to-edge by nailing into your bench around the perimeter of the panel. Then you nail the cross-stretchers down to the panel and clench them.

As you probably know, cut nails taper along two of their edges. The other two edges are parallel. When you build furniture you orient the taper so the tapered edges of the nail bite into the end grain of your top board. This reduces the chance of your work splitting.

So when I nailed into my bench using this principle, two things happened. First, Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick exclaimed: “Oh my! What are you doing?” I just cracked a wicked grin.

And second, the edges of the panel came together OK.

I thought about this for a minute, then I pulled two of the nails out of my benchtop and oriented them so the tapers bit into the edge grain – both of my panel and the workbench.

Then my joints closed up so tightly I could plane the entire panel and the pieces didn’t slip. Dang. The slight wedging action of the nails was surprisingly effective (and no, it didn’t split the top of my 4"-thick benchtop).

If you are interested in learning more about the history and use of cut nails, I wrote a lengthy story about building furniture with hammer and nails in issue five (Spring 2006) of Woodworking Magazine.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery & Fastening | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Whenever I demonstrate handsawing, someone usually asks this question: "Should you saw right on the knife line or next to your line?"

I answer: "It depends. Usually I split the knife line."

They usually respond with something like: "Yeah, and I'm a Chinese jet pilot."

So I show them. And now that we have a cool new macro lens at the magazine, I can show you, too. Above is the shoulder of a dovetail joint I cut this morning. The knife line at the edges was made with a cutting gauge.

I am not showing off. This is easy to do with a sharp saw and a little practice. Not years. Not months. It takes just a couple days, really.

Here's my advice: Practice. Don't practice on a real project. (There's a reason that surgeons practice on cadavers.) Practice on scrap. After a few hours of work you'll find it easy to follow a line. After a few more you'll cleave a knife line in twain.

Other sawing advice can be found in my treatise on sawing in the Spring 2008 issue.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Shaping
Bookmark and Share

Sometimes with woodworking, what seems crazy one day can be quite sensible the next.

I distinctly remember reading in the late 1990s a manuscript from an author who was building some Morris chairs. He used an 8'-long beam compass to lay out the shallow curves on the chairs' stretchers and had to enlist his sons to help him strike the arc.

Fellow editor David Thiel and I chuckled about that detail when we read it. It seemed like a lot of trouble for a shallow curve that we would strike using a flexible piece of thin hardwood and a couple nails.

But this week I'm not laughing anymore.

This week I'm building a Stickley sideboard for the next issue of Woodworking Magazine, and one of the prominent features of the piece is a shallow curve on the front rail. When I built the prototype of the project I used the flexible-stick-and-nails approach to lay out the curve.

After staring at that curve for many months on the prototype, it bugs me. It's not a perfect arc. It's a subtle thing, but I think the arc is a little flat.

So yesterday I built a monster beam compass that was more than 4' long. The beam itself is 1/2" x 1". At one end I drove a #8 x 2" screw through the beam. At the other end I drilled a 1/4"-diameter hole. Then I whittled a pencil to fit snugly in that hole. (Good luck trying to find the right drill bit to fit a standard pencil. Are pencils metric?)

I drove the screw into my benchtop just a tad then secured my sideboard's stretcher to the bench with a holdfast. I struck the arc then cut it out. It's perfect.

What's next? Am I doomed to build a jig that holds too-thick biscuits so I can sand them to perfect thickness? Am I going to build a router table with a micrometer built into the fence?

Shoot me if I do.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

The most stressful glue-up of my life was assembling my tool chest in 1998. The main carcase had 120 mating surfaces that had to be glued. Foolishly, I chose yellow glue as the adhesive.

As a result, another editor and I spent an hour furiously beating and clamping the chest together. In the end, there were a few gaps we couldn't close because the yellow glue had set – luckily it was nothing milk paint couldn't fix.

These days I'm smarter about glue. When I started building chairs years ago, I was introduced to liquid hide glue, and boy has that changed the way I work. I think I have an extra inch of stomach lining thanks to liquid hide glue (and no, that's not because I drank some).

The liquid hide glue is almost as simple to use as yellow glue (warming it up a little in a water bath helps it flow). It's reversible. Let me say that again: It's reversible! Once I stuck a chair leg in the wrong socket. All it took was a little heat and moisture and the leg came right out. Easy-peasy.

Liquid hide glue also cleans up nicely with water, doesn't smell bad and gives you a long open time for complex assemblies. If my shop is warm (65° F or so) I can manipulate my parts for 45 minutes or more before things start to get hairy.

I normally use Old Brown Glue. It's non-toxic (the manufacturer lets his dogs eat it!). But I've also used the Titebond product with good results.

I still use yellow glue – just not for everything. When I'm gluing up lots of panels, for example, I like the way yellow glue sets up quickly and doesn't need a lot of clamping time. This frees up clamps and lets me work faster. Ditto that when building jigs and fixtures or planting mouldings on a carcase – I want a glue that sets up fast.

I'll also choose a yellow glue that is water-resistant for projects that might have to endure a soaking.

What about other adhesives? Hot hide glue? Polyurethane? Epoxy? Plastic resin? I've used them all and sometimes I do break them out for certain applications. But for most of my work, which is building new pieces of furniture, liquid hide glue and yellow glue get used the most.

Maybe some day I'll get even smarter and get one of these.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When you're a professional writer, people tend to give you cranky manual typewriters as gifts. They don't expect you to use them, per se. But they do expect you to display them in your home. Good thing I'm not an undertaker.

For years I despised manual typewriters and rolled my eyes any time one of them showed up at my door with a bow on it.

My hate affair with these clackety beasts began in journalism school. Though our school had modern computers, the school decided that Basic Writing students should use manual typewriters only.

So every evening my head ached from the pounding of letters against platens from the fingers of 20 would-be scribes in my writing lab. My pinkies ached from pressing the shift key. The smell of correction fluid made me wince. I bought my first Macintosh that year and never looked back. Until this weekend.

My youngest daughter became curious about one of the typewriters in the basement, so I pulled it down and got it working. She's pretty fast on a keyboard, but watching her struggle on a typewriter was a revelation.

The manual typewriter taught me some critical lessons.

1. Use the fewest words possible to say something.

2. Make as few mistakes as possible.

3. Always think two sentences ahead of the one you are typing.

Without those three lessons, I doubt I'd have this job.

When you are a woodworker, people tend to give you beat-up wooden-stock handplanes as gifts. They don't expect you to use them, per se. But they do expect you to display them. Good thing I'm not a proctologist.

My mom gave me one this summer that made me shake my head. It's an old jointer plane, probably craftsman-made from ash or something oaky. The maker included the pith of the tree in the body – generally a no-no in planemaking. And the body has cast into a wacky rhombus shape.

I took one look at the tool when it came out of the box and set it aside. This week, something compelled me to take a closer look. I knocked its wedge loose and removed the chipbreaker and Ward iron. The iron has been ground away to almost nothing, but it is interesting. It is perfectly crowned – just like I crown a jointer plane blade. And the face of the iron has clearly been polished during honing.

This was a working tool. I took a close look at the sole. Ignoring the holes from some insects, it was obvious that the sole was burnished from hard use – it was the best-looking surface on the entire tool.

So I resolved to get this thing working. Perhaps it has a few more lessons in store.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Someday, someone is going to invent a battery-powered scratch awl.

I know this is true because I have seen toolmakers go to ridiculous extremes to sell us something new. A laser on a jigsaw. A battery-powered tape measure. A chisel with rasp-like teeth on its shank. Rulers that don't begin at zero.

But the silliest woodworking tool I've seen so far is the Black & Decker AutoClamp. It's a cordless C-clamp. It runs on AA batteries. Well, it used to run on AA batteries. The batteries that came with the clamp leaked and now it's an ex-clamp.

The magazine's staff bought me one for my birthday, and though I haven't used it much in the shop, I have delighted in playing with it in my office. You would be hard-pressed to make this thing press hard.

Though there is a safety-release button to disengage the clamp in emergencies (or when the batteries run out), it's difficult to imagine hurting yourself with this. When I clamp my hand with the $30 AutoClamp it feels about as firm as a handshake.

The company says you get 350 pounds of pressure. It didn't feel that way.

Now I hate to pick on Black & Decker too much. The company makes a lot of important tools affordable for the beginner. My first corded drill was a Black & Decker and it lasted me 10 years.

But the company does have a penchant for putting a battery on almost anything. An electric caulk gun. Battery-powered scissors. A battery-powered wrench.

So what's the silliest woodworking tool you've encountered? Leave a comment below. You just might save someone from making a serious mistake.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Like most woodworkers, I've been to my fair share of woodworking shows. I've bought the $5 router bits that fell off a truck. I've been wowed by the Sham Wow. I've eaten too many cheese fries.

So here's a word of advice: The best all-around woodworking show I've attended is the Northeastern Woodworkers Association Showcase in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. I've attended this show twice, and I'm bummed that I can't make it this year.

What makes this show special? The association has really found the right balance of education, inspiration and commerce. You can easily spend two days at the show soaking up a ton of information. Here are some details of the show, which runs March 28 and 29.

Education: Except for the time they hired me to demonstrate, the Showcase brings in real top-shelf demonstrators who are running lectures the entire weekend. This year you can meet (and learn from) W. Patrick Edwards, a brilliant and talented marquetry expert. Also, Jim Tolpin, one of my favorite authors. Adam Cherubini will be there to talk about period woodworking (let's hope he brings along some of his saws and chisels). And turner Molly Winton.

But that's only some of the education offered at the Showcase. In past years, the members have set up booths where volunteers were demonstrating carving, turning and a whole host of jigs and fixtures.

Inspiration: Almost one-third of the floor space at the Showcase is devoted to displaying the work of the members. There are hundreds of pieces to look at, everything from casework, to canoes, to guitars, to pens turned from corncobs. Some of the work is done by beginners; others is done by people with extraordinary skills. I spent about six hours browsing this area of the show.

Commerce: The show floor is great. There are lots of local and national vendors. Lie-Nielsen and Veritas have been there. JapaneseTools.com. DMT. Several local lumber dealers. Plus guys selling vintage tools.

Ah, two more things: If you go, be sure to check out the bar attached to the hotel restaurant. It has – hands down – the best selection of Belgian ales I've ever seen (except for one place in Philadelphia where I spent a bleary evening with Cherubini).

And finally: Saratoga Springs is beautiful. It's a charming old town in a bucolic setting. The main street is dotted with excellent shops and restaurants. In other words, your family will be glad you took them.

For more details, check out the event's web site.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Thanks to a mix-up between our company and our printer, the Spring 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine has yet to mail to U.S. subscribers. (In an odd twist of fate, however, it did mail to our international subscribers.)

The issue will mail next week, according to our manufacturing department. As soon as it goes out, we'll make an announcement here on the blog.

Our apologies for the delay. To tide you over until you receive your issue, I've posted one of the articles from the issue on two methods you can use to read the grain direction in a board. One of the techniques is well-known. The other rarely gets mentioned – but it's the one I use the most.

You can download the article by clicking the link below.

WM_Grain_Direction.pdf (1.37 MB)

Thanks for your patience.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

Last week Roy Underhill took me to the back room of his new school in Pittsboro, N.C.

"Is this the office?" I asked.

"No," Roy said with a wicked grin. "This is where I keep the confiscated tape measures."

It might surprise some modern-day woodworkers that the spring-loaded tape measure wasn't always the tool of choice for laying out one's work. Instead, the preferred layout tool for woodworkers for many generations was the folding rule: a brass-bound boxwood device that would unfold to 24" – though other lengths were available.

And that's why Underhill bans tape measures from The Woodwright's School.

The invention of the modern tape measure is sometimes credited to Alvin J. Fellows of New Haven, Conn., who patented his device in 1868, though the patent states that several kinds of tape measures already existed on the market at that time.

Tape measures didn't become ubiquitous, however, until the 1930s or so. The tool production of Stanley Works points this out nicely. The company had made folding rules almost since its inception. The company's production of tape measures appears to have cranked up in the late 1920s, according to John Walter's book "Stanley Tools."

In our shop here at the magazine, there have always been people in both camps. Senior Editor David Thiel always preferred zig-zag folding rules. Publisher Steve Shanesy uses tape measures. Senior Editor Glen Huey prefers a 24" ruler (non folding) for many layout chores. I've always used a 12' tape and a couple combination squares.

But lately I've found myself holding my folding rule quite a bit. It's a common-as-dirt Stanley No. 66-1/4 that belonged to my grandfather, I believe. Someone in my family has thoughtfully coated the entire thing in a thick film of glossy polyurethane, which makes the device an eyesore.

Plus two of the rule's three joints were looser than I like – they flopped around like when my youngest sister broke her arm. But I fixed the ruler's problem. Perhaps this solution will get me crucified, but it worked great. I put the rule on the shop's concrete floor and tapped the pin in the ruler's hinges using a nail set and a hammer. About six taps peened the steel pin a bit, spreading it out to tighten up the hinge. Now the rule works like a new one.

I like using the folding rule so much because it's great for taking inside measurements on casework. It's stiff, so I don't have to worry about it sagging across a long distance. It's marked in 8ths on one side and 16ths on the other. That's great for most work – sometimes the 32nds and 64ths on machinist-style rules can make a measurement hard to read. And, of course, it won't put me in the "time out room" at Mr. Underhill's.

If you ever want to try using a folding rule and have difficulty finding a vintage one, you might consider the one from Garrett Wade with the delightful politically incorrect name: Blindman's Rule. It's $22.40 (sometimes it goes on sale), is made in Holland by Sybren and is easy to read.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/5/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Some day I expect one of my little girls to tell a school counselor (between sobs): "Daddy has a hammer problem."

My, ahem, problem started innocently enough years ago. I got interested in David Maydole, the father of the legendary adze-eye hammer. I read James Parton's 1884 article about Maydole and thought: Wouldn't it be cool to own one of his hammers?

So I bought one off eBay for $20. It had a cool bull's eye cast into its face. Its handle was worlds better than the rubber-wrapped hammer-shaped object I'd had since childhood. I even think that Maydole drove nails a little faster. So I bought a 16-ounce Maydole for my shop at home.

Fast forward about five years. I'm looking for a plane at the bottom of my tool chest. I pull out a few hammers. Then a few more. Then a big Cheney. My bench has a heap of hammers on it. How many dang hammers have I bought?

Fourteen, as it turns out. And probably another seven at home (I can't bear to count).

You don't need this many hammers. However, I do think you need more than one. If someone put a nail gun in my mouth and made me choose my three essential hammers for making furniture, here would be my list:

1. A 16-ounce hammer for all-purpose nail whacking.

2. A Warrington-style hammer with a cross-peen/pein/pane. I use this hammer to tweak the lateral adjustment on my metal-bodied handplanes. I use the cross-peen/pein/pane to start short brads. And I use the striking face to finish small brads.

3. A plane-adjusting hammer. I have one from Chester Toolworks. It has a brass face and a wooden face (Lee Valley makes one like this). I use this tool for adjusting my wooden-bodied planes. The brass face is for tapping the iron. The wooden face is for tapping the stock and the wedge.

If you are similarly afflicted, I warn you there is little hope. Lie-Nielsen Toolworks just started making Warrington-style hammers. I ordered all three, however I don't remember how that happened. It's a bit of a blur.

— Christopher Schwarz

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Our new CD containing all four issues of Woodworking Magazine from 2008 is now in stock in our store for $19.99 plus shipping.

All of our electronic magazines are in pdf format and work in both Mac and PC computers with the free Adobe Reader program (which comes installed on most computers these days).

In addition to containing the complete content of all four issues, these pdfs have been enhanced with links to supplemental material on the Internet. For example, you can click on the image of the router plane in issue nine, and our review of router planes will be automatically called up in your browser's window. It's a great way to dig deeper into the topics you care most about.

Also, this CD features a new interface that is easier to use. When you launch the CD you'll get a window that looks like the image at the top of this entry. From here you can click on a cover to browse the issue page by page (just like the printed version). Or you can click on the "Search" button and search all four issues by any keyword.

This CD contains some great stories. Here are some of my favorites:

• How to Saw:
In this article, we explore the 10 things you are probably doing wrong when you saw joints by hand. Fix these and you'll be well on your way to cutting straighter.

• Our tool review of screws: Yes, we reviewed screws. And what we found was pretty amazing: The cheapest screws are the strongest. Which screws are cheapest? That's also a  surprise.

• American Hanging Cupboard: I designed this cabinet after looking at hundreds of examples of 18th-century cupboards, both in books and at Winterthur. It features a nice tombstone door and a single dovetailed drawer (my 7-year-old daughter keeps her allowance in there).

• Making Through-mortises: Making a crisp through-mortise requires the right tools and techniques. We show you what old-school through-mortises look like and then how to make yours look worlds better.

You can order the CD now from our store. Click here.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Robert Giovannetti of the Cherry Creek Woodworks blog (the guy with the Lie-Nielsen tattoo and a Schwarz-sized bench fetish) has done a nice interview with Ron Hock of Hock Tools.

Despite Ron's youthful appearance, I consider him to be one of the grandfathers of the recent explosion of custom toolmakers. Ron started his business by making plane blades for James Krenov's students. Then it grew into providing replacement blades for Stanley planes. In fact, one of the first things I did after I bought my first Stanley jack plane was to buy a Hock blade. It's good stuff.

In any case, you can learn lots about how Ron got started in the business and why he does what he does over at Cherry Creek. It's definitely worth a visit.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 3/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share
In the comments for "One Schwarzpower. Fail." Chris C. mentioned Roy Underhill's "Lathe from a Loft" article, which we ran in the October 2000 issue of Popular Woodworking. In this story, Roy used recycled lumber (read: he went dumpster diving, much to his daughter's embarrassment) to make a treadle lathe and scrollsaw. I've attached a PDF of the story below, for your reading and building pleasure.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


TreadleLathe.pdf (1.69 MB)
Posted 3/1/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

After pestering my flu-infested father for three days, he finally felt well enough for us to visit the Angel Oak on John’s Island – which some people consider to be the oldest living thing east of the Rocky Mountains.

It’s a gargantuan live oak (Quercus virginiana) that is estimated to be 1,400 to 1,500 years old. It was a sapling when Arthur was trying to beat back the Saxons in England.

Live oak is an interesting bird. It’s more of an evergreen tree in some ways. There’s a young live oak outside my dad’s front door in Charleston, S.C., and today it still has all its leaves. It doesn’t drop its leaves until the new ones are ready to come in.

The wood is also interesting. It is one of our heaviest native hardwoods (55 pounds per cubic foot when air dried). Like its other oak brethren, it is stiff and strong. The live oak was prized for shipbuilding, however now it’s difficult to find commercially. Heck, I’ve never seen it for sale in any rack.

The Angel Oak (which is named after the plantation it grew on), is like something out of Lord of the Rings. It twists and turns and branches everywhere over a huge area. Branches leave the trunk, dive underground and come up again. Weird. Though the tree isn’t tall (just 65 feet high), it is quite wide (the canopy covers about 17,000 square feet of ground).

When we arrived at the tree it was raining hard, and I expected that we’d be the only ones there. Wrong. Apparently it was Cletus Hour at the Angel Tree. Instead of the quiet reverence I was anticipating, there was a bit of a hoe-down going on beneath the branches. A group of about 10 people were gawking at the tree and screaming at each other: “I love this tree! I loves it!”

Then they got into an interesting debate about whether it would have been better to be under the tree (or not) during Hurricane Hugo. The line of argument was something like: “Uh-huh,” and “No way” and “I LOVES this TREE!”

Then they went to the gift shop. Yes, this tree has its own gift shop.

After the people cleared out, it was more like a cathedral than a roadhouse. The leaves of a live oak don’t look like your typical oak. They are waxy and lozenge-shaped, and there’s something odd about the tree having all its leaves on the last day of February.

During the last 1,400 years some branches have broken off in interesting ways, and my father kept pointing out some faces he could see in the ripples of the bark and broken branches. I saw nothing. I apparently need to take his temperature to see if his brain is cooking.

I knew it was time to go when the rain stopped and a tour bus pulled up. But before we left the tree’s canopy, I had one more task to do. I picked up a cluster of leaves and acorns that had fallen on the ground and stuffed them in my pocket.

The soil of Fort Mitchell, Ky., probably isn’t sandy or warm enough to support a live oak, but stranger things have happened – such as tree living for 1,400 years.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

For all the girls I’ve maimed before: I’m sorry.

Though I have fairly good hand skills, my feet skills on the dance floor are murderous. When I dance, most people look for a wooden spoon in order to help me through my grand mal seizure.

So it should come as no surprise that woodworking machines powered by feet should be a challenge for me. I first started working on treadle machines when I took a chairmaking class in Canada. We turned all the spindles on a springpole lathe. And it took me an entire day to get the rhythm to actually work a chunk of ash into something round.

This week I went to visit Roy Underhill and he let me work on two of his foot-powered machines: a Graves treadle-powered table saw and a treadle grindstone.

The saw is something special. I want one, though it’s doubtful I’d ever be able to get my feets on one. You pump the treadle, which turns a flywheel, which spins the blade. You adjust the height of the blade by raising and lowering the table. You make crosscuts with a miter gauge in a miter slot.

Rips are a little different. One person turns a crank (included!) to spin the blade. A second person guides the stuff through the blade. There is a rip fence that locks into a second slot.

Roy Underhill had no problem crosscutting stuff time after time. The blade never slowed. The cuts were clean. His rhythm was slow and steady.

For me, it was like a spastic weasel pumping a Nordic Trac. Too fast. And then the thing stalled. After a few tries… it got worse.

Underhill kept saying, “It took me a whole day to get the hang of it.”

Liar.

Then we went out and played with his treadle-powered grindstone. Underhill sharpened a chisel in about a minute. Then he let me try – in front of the entire hamlet of Pittsboro, N.C. Again, my feet kept getting tangled up in themselves. I couldn’t get more than two seconds of grinding before my legs looked like something at the Auntie Anne’s pretzel counter.

Underhill kept saying, “I need to tighten up those pedals. That would make it easier.”

Again, Underhill is an excellent liar.

I think I should stick with hand tools. Foot tools are just beyond me.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/27/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Editor’s note: Joel Moskowitz is the owner of ToolsforWorkingWood.com, a long-time woodworker, tool collector and book collector. He has the largest woodworking library I’ve ever encountered. During the last few weeks, the magazine’s staff has been asking people for their lists of favorite woodworking books. The results have been very interesting – we’ve even encountered a few books we’re not aware of.

Below is Joel’s list. Well, actually a couple lists. Joel’s an over-achiever.

— Christopher Schwarz


Woodworking Books in Print

Here are some book lists. I know the second I send this off, I will think of other titles that should be included. It’s hard to limit yourself to 10 or 20 “Must Have Titles” on anything. Because I love books, I have hundreds of books in my collection. Some are a learning experience on every page, some are useless but popular in their day, and others are beautiful to look at, but turgid to read. The books listed below are at least a good place for anyone to start. I prefer information that isn’t dumbed down, so my favorites mostly are books that try to talk to me like an adult, expect I’m not an idiot and are comprehensive in professional technique.

This first list is of stuff in print that we mostly stock at ToolsforWorkingWood.com and I recommend to everyone.

"Whittling and Woodcarving" by E. J. Tangerman. My first book on woodworking and still one of my favorites. Best of all: Lots of the samples of carving come from the Metropolitan Museum of Art and are still on exhibit.

"The Encyclopedia of Furniture Making" by Ernest Joyce. I have an older edition but it’s a great overall resource on different approaches to making furniture the modern way. Great for figuring out the details of a design; that is, how to do stuff.

"Woodcarving Tools, Materials & Equipment (New Edition), Vol. 1" by Chris Pye. Pye is a great writer and a master carver. The book is a wonderful read, inspiring and systematic.

"The Marquetry Course" by Jack Metcalfe and John Apps. The best book on learning marquetry that’s in print at the moment.

"Modern Practical Joinery" by George Ellis. I recommend this book for anyone doing restoration on architectural woodworking. Not as good as Hasluck, but at least it’s in print.

"Modern Cabinet Work" by Percy A. Wells & John Hooper. A recent reprint; it’s not as good as Bernard Jones, but it’s worth having.

"Dictionary of Woodworking Tools" by R. A. Salaman. Anyone who is even remotely interested in tools should have this book.

"Illustrated Cabinetmaking" by Bill Hylton. A (relatively) new book. I think the drawings are great and it covers a lot of modern-built stuff.

"Japanese Woodworking Tools" by Toshio Odate. The only book on Japanese tools in English worth having. It’s a classic. It explains tons of stuff, and I’ve had a hardcover edition since it came out.

"How to Construct Rietveld Furniture" by Reter Drijver and Johannes Niemeijer. If you like modern furniture that’s easy to build, you can’t go wrong here. It features 1920s modern furniture from the original drawings of a great designer. Simple, classic stuff. The stuff is a lot more comfortable than it looks.

Out of Print and Odd Books

The following books are out of print or expensive, but I think they are some of the best around for their respective subjects. I’ve left off a lot of favorites that are better known, such as Andre Roubo’s works, and included books that I found important to me – even if they’re not directly woodworking related. (I could generate another, different list: the most important books in the history of woodworking. And another list: the most important books on historical woodworking practice.)

"Building the Georgian City" by James Ayres. A tour-de-force that puts the entire construction and woodworking of the period in context.

"China at Work" by Rudolf P. Hommel. Really interesting from an anthropological point of view.

"The Complete Woodworker, Vol. 1" and "The Practical Woodworker, Vol. 2" by Bernard Jones. Probably the best books on hand tool practice out there. A recent reprint is out of print, but easy to get. Volume 1 is essential. Volume 2 is nice to have.

"Notes from the Turning Shop" and "Further Notes from the Turning Shop" by Bill Jones. Fun-to-read books that are very inspiring and can teach you a lot about getting stuff done. Jones is the last of the professional ivory turners and knows what he is doing.

"The Woodwright’s Shop" by Roy Underhill. Roy was a big inspiration for me.

"Marquetry" by Pierre Ramond. A fabulous book on marquetry. Not a great book for beginners, but it features tons of how-to details on advanced subjects.

"Watchmaking" by George Daniels. One of the best books on craft ever written. It makes you want to build a watch.

"Carpentry and Joinery" by Paul Hasluck. The best book ever written on architectural woodworking.

"Woodwork Joints," "Tools for Woodwork," "Carpentry for Beginners," "Cabinetry for Beginners," "Antique or Fake?" and "English Period Furniture" by Charles H. Hayward. Everything by Hayward is worth reading. These books are the core of everything you need to know about woodworking.

"Adventures in Wood Finishing" by George Frank. Well, it doesn’t really belong on this list but I enjoy reading and rereading this book all the time.

"Memories of a Sheffield Toolmaker" by Ashley Iles. Interesting historically, and especially inspirational and helpful if you are yourself starting a small business.

"The Museum of Early American Tools," "A Reverence for Wood," and "Diary of an Early American Boy" by Eric Sloane. These books were very informative and helped kick off my interest in history and woodworking when I was a boy, and they’re still engaging today. Wonderfully illustrated.


"In Praise Of Shadows" by Jun'ichirō Tanizaki. I first read this book when I was in my 20s and thought it xenophobic, but when I met Toshio Odate many years later he said I should reread it. I did, and I think it is one of the greatest written appreciations of craft and how it calms our lives that there is.

— Joel Moskowitz


Posted 2/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

This week I’m at my father’s house in Charleston, S.C., to get my USRDA of grits, tasso and shrimp. Whenever I visit the Holy City, I always make sure to pack comfortable shoes and a tape measure – I never know what I’ll find.

This morning I’ve been poring over my father’s small collection of English chests. Most of them he purchased from dealers on King Street a few blocks away. When I helped him pick these chests out, I was always looking for the ones that displayed the best craftsmanship. These well-made chests, however, weren’t always the best-looking chests. So usually he purchased a chest that looked really good and was passable in the craftsmanship department. Funny, he doesn’t take me with him to shop for antiques anymore.

One of the chests in father’s dining room is similar to a piece I’ll be building at home this year. The chest is circa 1810, according a friend of my father who deals in Early American architecture and furnishings. It has some interesting details from the woodworking side of things.

The chest is a typical size: 39-1/8" high, 37-5/8" long and 19-1/4" deep with four graduated drawers: 5-1/4", 6-3/4", 7-3/4" and 8-3/4". The entire chest is pine that has been veneered with mahogany.

The top is an interesting construction. The front 4-1/2" of the top is 7/8" thick. The rest is 3/4" thick. I assume that the 7/8" piece is edge-glued to the 3/4" piece – at least that’s the way it looks.

As always, the drawers are interesting. The sides and back are all 3/8"-thick material. The front is 3/4" pine veneered with mahogany (with some string inlay). Each drawer has a tail at its bottom edge that is straight instead of sloped. This straight tail houses the groove for the drawer’s bottom. Like all my dad’s English chests, the bottom of the drawer sides have been reinforced with small strips of wood to effectively double the thickness of the drawer side under the bottom.

The drawers in this chest run on solid dividers – no web frames in this chest. The back is four wide boards of pine in a rabbet. No shiplaps or grooves as far as I can tell – the backs have shrunk a bit, and you can see between them.

I really like the flowing lines of the plinth (they are repeated on the sides) and want to trace them before I leave. I’ll have to keep my eye peeled for some wide butcher’s paper in town.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Nothing is more fundamental to woodworking than the wood itself, however even professional cabinetmakers struggle with understanding how wood works and how to make it work for them. In the Spring 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine, we we show you how the way that a tree grows in the woods directly affects the way we design and build furniture. And understanding wood is the first step to building projects that look better, last longer and are easier to build. For more information and to purchase your copy, click here.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


Posted 2/25/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

The afternoon is quickly fading to evening in Roy Underhill’s shop in Pittsboro, N.C. And as the shadows across the workbenches grow longer from the windows facing Hillsoboro Street, Underhill announces he is going outside to do some sharpening.

He pulls a foot-powered grindstone out onto the sidewalk and fetches a coffee cup filled with water to drip on the stone. And as the evening car traffic builds in the street, he cranks the stone and sharpens a wide firmer chisel.

About 30 seconds into the job a mother and her toddler wander up to the grindstone. The little boy stares intently at Underhill as he grinds a new bevel on the chisel. Then Underhill stops and looks up – not at the mother, but at the boy.

“This is sandstone,” he tells the boy, as if he’s addressing an adult. “I use it to sharpen things like scissors. Or maybe an axe so I can chop down a tree.”

The boy says it must be hard – really hard – to sharpen. Underhill just smiles.

That’s because if Underhill’s plan works, his latest endeavor will make it easier for the next generation to enjoy hand-tool woodworking.

“This is not about the past,” Underhill says, his arms spread wide toward the 10 beech European workbenches lined up on his shop’s floor. “Well yes, of course it’s about the past in one sense. But it’s really about the future. The objective is the future.”

Then he pauses for a moment, and you know that something important is coming.

“If you have a hobby,” he says, “why not make it an ethical one – as opposed to one that is noise-making, planet-damaging and waistline-expanding?”

Roy Underhill, host of “The Woodwright’s Shop” TV show, has opened a woodworking school in the small but artistically inclined town of Pittsboro, N.C. The hamlet of about 2,500 is right outside the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill triangle and is a nice assemblage of tidy old homes and active storefronts.

Next door to Underhill’s place, called The Woodwright’s School, there’s an ice cream parlor. Unofficially they have the best chocolate malts ever. To the rear of the school is a cozy bar that serves Red Oak, a locally brewed beer. Plus, there are antique shops, a music store, barber shop and photographer who has Barbie issues (ask Mr. Underhill about that).

“Even the people who live here say it’s Mayberry,” Underhill says. “How about another piece of cherry pie?”

The Woodwright’s School is an ambitious venture. Not only is it a tough time to start a business, but how about a school that focuses on hand work exclusively? All the woodworking tools in Underhill’s shop are powered by cholesterol (or alcohol). The closest thing to a table saw you’ll find is a Graves foot-powered treadle circular saw (want one) and a treadle lathe and scroll saw.

“This should look like you have stepped back into a shop class in the 1930s,” he says.

There are 10 German Hoffman and Hammer workbenches, and each is equipped with a basic set of tools for joinery (and everything is sharp – I looked). The walls are decorated with old prints and photos (FDR). There’s a huge old radio at the back of the shop. If you can ignore the digital camera attached to one bench, it really does look like an old shop.

As a result, there are a few rules for students when they bring tools to his classes. No tape measures are allowed. Or plastic-handled chisels. Or Japanese-tooth saws.

“We’re going to be doing English-style joinery,” he says. “You wouldn’t build a shoji screen with a big Disston. That would be like stir-frying grits.”

Then he thinks about it for a second.

“We’re trying to do early music with the original instruments,” he says.

The first music is being made this weekend (February 2009) with a series of one-day classes on basic joinery. Those will lead to classes on building a tool chest. And Underhill says he’s going to bring in other instructors as well.

Those people will teach a class for a week and then Underhill will shoot a segment with them during the weekend for “The Woodwright’s Shop.”

The other different aspect of Underhill’s school is that he wants to ensure that locals, especially young locals, get plenty of opportunity to take classes. That’s why he’s planning shops that will run on weekends or, for example, on consecutive Thursday nights.

“We’ll see,” he says. “We’ll see if I can get people to do this sort of stuff.”

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. The school doesn’t have a web site yet (hey, it’s the 1930s OK?). If you want to get on Underhill’s mailing list to learn about future classes, send your request to woodwrightroy@gmail.com.


Posted 2/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Reader Questions
Bookmark and Share

Reader David Raeside writes: As always, I have found the Winter 2008 issue of Woodworking Magazine to be a fine piece of work.

One of the features of the magazine that I particularly enjoy is the Glossary. I have a suggestion for improving the connection of the Glossary with the texts of the articles ­ “flagging.” For example, the words “expressed joints” in the “Make Clean Through-mortises” article could be in italics to alert the reader that more on expressed joints is contained in the Glossary.


We discussed this at some length during a staff meeting. It was surprisingly heated. I have a definite opinion on the matter, but I can see both sides of the argument.

Those for the flagging said that it could help the beginning reader with some of the lexicon and encourage intermediate readers to visit the “Glossary” page for deeper information.

Those against the flagging said that it would clutter up what is a clean magazine design with unnecessary “pseudo-information.”

We decided in this instance to let the readers decide. Vote in our poll below before midnight on March 6 to let us know how you feel about this issue.

Thanks in advance,

– Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

There are so many ways to construct a drawer that someone could write an entire book on the variations across time and cultures. I’d buy it. One curious drawer detail that I quite like is to house a drawer’s bottom in slips.

Drawer slips are narrow pieces of wood that are grooved to accept the drawer bottom. The slips are glued to the drawer sides (and sometimes the drawer front). Why would you do such a thing?

• Dovetail layout is cleaner: Because you don’t have to sink a groove in the drawer sides, you don’t have to use a half-tail at the bottom of the drawer side or risk a bad split by putting a whole tail close to the bottom edge. You can use any layout you please. The slips handle the groove.

• They look nice. This is probably the reason I like them. It adds an extra level of detail to the drawer bottom. Most people probably won’t notice, but I do.

• They make the drawer easier to use. You can fish coins and the like easily out of the drawer because of the beveled edge on the slip. Some people say they make the drawers easier to clean and dust. But I don’t dust much.

There is some debate about whether each drawer requires three slips or only two. Some account have slips attached to the sides and drawer front – the slips are mitered at the corners. Other accounts have slips attached to the sides only and a groove in the drawer front.

In some accounts, drawer slips are a mark of quality work. David Denning in “The Art and Craft of Cabinet-making” (Pitman, page 186) says that joiners typically grooved their drawer sides. Cabinetmakers typically used slips.

— Christopher Schwarz

Here you can see the symmetrical dovetail layout, which I like. Drawer slips make this easy.

Here's a close shot of some slip material before it is installed. Note the bevel on the corner.

This is what the underside of the drawer looks like with slips. My slips are mitered. The slip attached to the drawer front is cherry.

And here's what they look like from the rear of the drawer.



Posted 2/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

I was about 12' up in the rafters of a barn, climbing on the biggest mountain of Eastern white pine I've ever seen. Then I saw it above me: a monster 5/4 board that was at least 20" wide.

And it was on the top of the stack of lumber – easy pickings. But then my joy turned quickly to revulsion.

While building projects often seems like an adventure, hunting the wood can sometimes feel like a movie – sometimes it's "Raiders of the Lost Ark," sometimes it's "Drugstore Cowboy" and other times it's "Dumb and Dumber."

I've been in a barn full of walnut that was ruled by legions of swooping bats and twitchy raccoons. I've met guys in their garages in the dead of night to trade cash for cambium. And I've bought wood from a professional cabinetmaker who sold me all his curly maple for half price. ("I hate it when I get curly wood. Ugly," he said.)

So there I was with both hands on that big pine board when I saw that some mammal had left me a heaping organic present in the middle of this monster board.

I called down to Senior Editor Glen Huey at the bottom of the stack. "Aw man, there's a big pile of poo on this board."

"I hate it when there's dog crap on the wood," Glen replied.

"Glen," I asked. "How in the world could a dog possibly get up here?"

Glen replied, "OK, how big is the pile?"

"Too big." I took another look and carefully shifted the plank aside to get the board below it.

All in all, it was well worth the trip out to the barn. I ended up with some boards that were wider than 15" – and one that was 17-1/2". And it's nice stuff – not at all crappy.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 2/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Our tale starts at Mike Ditka's restaurant in Chicago during a tool show. Someone at our table had just spilled red wine on Bill Krier (editor of WOOD magazine) and the place was swirling with waiters trying pat him down and clean up the mess.

That's when the guy across the table caught my eye and lowered his voice. "Say, have you ever heard about the tool vault at Stanley?" he asked.

The guy had been a product manager at Stanley several years before and he said that Stanley had a vault where they kept one new-in-the-box item of everything the company had produced. I said he was pulling my leg. He swore it was true.

Imagine, he said, a new No. 1 plane in the box, still fresh from the factory floor. New 750 chisels still in the wrappers. Even the much-hated fiberboard planes had to be worth something if they had never touched fiberboard, right?

During the last 10 years, I've made a few inquires at Stanley and sent interns to check out the story. Nobody knew what I was talking about.

Fast-forward to a few years later when our magazine staff is hosting a dinner with some officials from Porter-Cable and Delta Machinery. Somehow the topic came up about how there are all these great woodshops on military bases.

One of the Delta guys said the military was a good customer. In fact, they had bought hundreds of table saws, sealed them up and buried them in the desert. Why? In the event of a nuclear holocaust, there would be functioning table saws that could be used to rebuild the country.

Believe it?

And our last "Tale from the Wood" for the week comes from reader Bill Taggart:

In my previous career, I used to travel a lot all over the continental United States. I was at a Cracker Barrel somewhere out in the Midwest one time and saw a couple of pretty nice tools on the wall.  I called the manager over and asked him if I might buy them.  He said that they had people ask that once in a while, but they weren't allowed to sell them because they belonged to the restaurant. Then he said words that, to this day, make me feel more than slightly nauseated.

He said that Cracker Barrel corporate had people whose job it was to seek out and find all the artifacts on display in the restaurants.  He said they had a big warehouse in Kentucky with about 10,000 items in it that they used to stock the restaurants.

He did say that some things were reproductions, though.  I think those are mostly the advertising signs and such.  But you can tell that the tools are mostly the real deal.

Next time I go to a Cracker Barrel I'm taking my Milwaukee impact driver. Think anyone will notice?


— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/18/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

First the bad news: All of the spots at Roy Underhill's new woodworking school in Pittsboro, N.C., are all filled. But here's the good news: He'll be scheduling more classes soon, as soon as he gets the next television season's shooting schedule finalized.

And more good news: I'm traveling to the school next week to shoot some photos for an upcoming article that Underhill is writing for us, and I'll give you a full report on the facility, the tools and the workbenches.

The school – called The Woodwright's School – has been in the works for some time now, and Underhill says it is a logical extension of what he's been doing his entire adult life.

"I began teaching woodworking over 30 years ago and continued – in a way – when I was master housewright at Colonial Williamsburg," Underhill wrote in an e-mail. "Now I'm returning to it with my own place equipped with vintage hand tools and an atmosphere that takes you back to the 1930s.

"The Woodwright's School will give me a chance to learn from my students and from the other craftsmen who join me there. I look forward to working with folks of all ages, and I'll know that the school is a success when I have as many young people as I do retirees in the classes. Another step forward for subversive woodworking!"

If you want to sign up for his e-mail newsletter so you can be notified of future classes, click here. In the meantime, enjoy these photos he sent along of his facility.

— Christopher Schwarz

One shot of the exterior of The Woodwright's School.

Roy Underhill looking ready to work in the new school.

A nice romantic shot of Pittsboro, N.C.


Posted 2/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

These days investing in premium tools might have less financial risk than the stock market.

Just about every week I get an e-mail or phone call from a reader asking me if they think that premium handplanes from Veritas, Lie-Nielsen and Clifton are worth the extra expense. I think they are worth the money, and I always tell the person the following:

"If you don't like them, you can always sell them on eBay and get most of your money back."

This morning I decided to run some numbers to determine if I'm full of poo. So I checked the price of 36 recent eBay transactions for Lie-Nielsen tools. It was mostly planes, but the list included a couple sets of chisels, a saw and a screwdriver.

Here are some typical prices:

• The Lie-Nielsen No. 164 low-angle smoothing plane. Retail: $265. eBay: $235.
• Large Shoulder Plane. Retail: $250. eBay: $220.02.
• Lie-Nielsen No. 4-1/2 Bench Plane. Retail: $325. eBay: $250.

There were a few surprises on my list.

A couple sellers actually made money. A rabbeting block plane and a chisel set sold for more than the retail price. That can be caused by bidders fueled by testosterone or by other factors (including the fact the buyer could be in another country).

On the whole, the Lie-Nielsen tools sold for an average of 16 percent less than the full retail price. If you averaged out all the transactions, the average Lie-Nielsen tool sold for $38 less than the retail price.

So there you have it. My collection of Lie-Nielsens is doing better than my 401(k).

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/17/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Need to clean up the corners of really wide rabbets? Then I have the plane for you.

This Stanley plane is so rare it doesn't even show up in John Walter's "Stanley Tools Guide to Identity & Value." You won't find it at Patrick Leach's Blood & Gore web site. Heck, I don't even think John Sindelar – tool collector extraordinaire – has one.

That's because it doesn't exist. These oddball planes show on eBay sometimes with breathless verbiage about how the tool is super rare. Truth is, it's a bench plane with a broken casting.

I know this for a fact because I broke it myself on Friday while we were shooting a short video that demonstrates the difference between gray iron (which the Stanley plane is made out of) ductile iron (which Lie-Nielsen and Veritas planes are made from) and cast steel.

So I took handplanes made from these three materials, put them on an anvil and went Old Testament John Henry on them. The Stanley plane shattered like rock candy. As for the other two, you'll have to wait until we get the video edited.

— Christopher Schwarz

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 2/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Today I’m finishing up an article on sawmaker Andrew Lunn at Eccentric Toolworks for the next issue of The Fine Tool Journal – my employer’s office is closed for the holiday so I’m getting to work on some personal projects.

So I took the Eccentric dovetail and carcase saws down to my basement shop to cut some dovetails in poplar. While I was down there I also cut some dovetails using my favorite Japanese dozuki. Before I went all “Wild West” in the saw department, this dozuki was my best friend. It’s a blacksmith-made saw, hand finished and tuned.

My wife gave it to me as a birthday present in 1998. And so I promptly destroyed several of its teeth in some white oak (and probably soiled some undergarments in the process).

It turned out to be a good thing, however. I sent the saw to Japan for sharpening and had it tuned up for cutting Western woods by a professional saw sharpener. This process is called “metate” and can be carried to extremes (read this cool article if you want to know more).

Since then, I’ve never broken a tooth, and I still use this saw for really fine cuts.

The Japanese saw has a sawplate of .012" thin, which is even thinner than the Eccentric’s anorexic .015".

What was remarkable was when I compared the Eccentric saws to my beloved dozuki. The Eccentric saw left a kerf that was the same (maybe even a little thinner) than the dozuki's. As a bonus, the rip teeth of the Eccentric saw chugged through the poplar in half the strokes of the crosscut dozuki.

Take a look at the photo at the top of this entry. The left-hand kerf is the Eccentric. The right-hand kerf is the dozuki.

The Eccentric carcase saw is also impressive. The shoulder cuts it leaves are as clean and smooth as anything I’ve encountered. Check out the photo below. Look ma, no chisel work.

Andrew-san does some nice work up in central Ohio. Some day I hope to be able to sharpen a saw this well.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. I reviewed rip dozukis in 2004. You can download that article below.

rip_dozuki.pdf (175.61 KB)



Posted 2/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When a workbench leaves a workshop, the results can be sad.

I’ve seen perfectly good workbenches transformed into plant stands in a hallway. I’ve seen them as displays for pottery. And I’ve seen a lot of them pressed into service as kitchen islands.

This last use might not be the worst fate for a workbench. At least it still sees the occasional cutting tool, some fiberous plant materials (ginger, carrots) and perhaps even a little blood. Heck, a woodworking vise does a good job of opening jars of pickles and peanut butter.

The saddest examples are usually in retail. I’ve seen several workbenches in clothing stores holding stacks of sweaters, underwear and high-end jeans. This weekend, reader Jonathan Hartford sent me a photo of a French workbench he found at a Crabtree and Evelyn store in Massachusetts.

Its drawer is filled with fragrant soaps. Its bottom shelf holds gift boxes instead of bench planes. (Note the nice detail on the bottom stretcher.) Hartford snapped the photo above and then gave the bench a hip check.

Still solid, he reports.

Perhaps there is hope for this one to go back in the shop someday. I don’t know if you’ll ever get that flowery smell out, however.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings
Bookmark and Share

A few years ago I was teaching a class on handplanes when one of the students came up to my bench to ask a favor. One of the main reasons he had signed up for the class was to get me to sign the cover of the December 2004 issue of Popular Woodworking.

On the cover was the Arts & Crafts Tool Cabinet I'd built. He had read the article so many times that the issue was falling apart. I hope he got the courage up to build the piece.

During the last four years, I have been continually surprised by how popular that project is. We quickly sold out of the back issue. And I get requests for reprints all the time. Plus, people still send me photos of their progress on building the cabinet.

Today reader Peter Alonso sent us a SketchUp model of the tool cabinet that we placed in Google's 3D Warehouse. You can download it (and SketchUp) for free here.

It's a detailed model. All the assemblies are made into components, so you can really take the thing apart, learn how it was built and alter it to your satisfaction.

While you're at the 3D Warehouse, you might want to check out all the other free models we've posted there – many of them are from Woodworking Magazine.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Free Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Like tools? We do! Read our latest tool coverage HERE.
• Looking for free project plans? We have hundreds. Click HERE.
• Learn a new woodworking technique today. Click HERE.
• Want more videos? See all our free videos HERE.
• Check out our selection of half-price woodworking books HERE.
• Get 8 years of Popular Woodworking on one CD. Click HERE.


Posted 2/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

For the Lie-Nielsen fan who has everything, you might consider getting a Lie-Nielsen tattoo for the arm that pushes your bronze and ductile iron beauties.

Casual Lie-Nielsen fans can purchase the temporary tattoos Lie-Nielsen Toolworks sells at its web site ($5 for 10 of them). Or you can go all the way and get a permanent tattoo, like Rob Giovannetti of Illinois.

Giovannetti’s wife is an accomplished tattoo artist. He loves handplanes. And so the natural result was this tattoo on his right arm.

Giovannetti showed off his tattoo on his new blog, Cherry Creek Woodworks. Knowing him, this won’t be the last outrageous thing he does there.

And this isn’t the first tool tattoo I’ve seen. About five years ago, one of the demonstrators in the Festool booth at a trade show had Festool tattooed on his right forearm in the company’s bright green. The guy installed custom floors for a living. And if memory serves me right, he also had Festool emblazoned on his truck. And he even kept his firstborn in a Systainer for its first couple weeks of life. (OK, I made that last detail up.)

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

You can do fancy things with a hammer and the right nails. And lately, I've been doing a lot of practicing with cut nails for a series of projects I'm working on that feature nails (including the dry sink in the next issue of Woodworking Magazine).

The more I learn about nails, the more I find out there are lots of interesting things you do with them. You probably have heard about "clinching" (sometimes spelled "clenching") nails. This is when the tip of the nail passes entirely through both of your workpieces. Then you use your hammer to bend the nail's tip over and back into the work.

You see lots of this in boat building and in old work, especially where battens have been attached to doors.

Some people can't quite visualize this, and so I was happy to find the illustration above in "Exercises in Woodworking," a late 19th-century book that I need to do a full blog entry on. It's quite cool. You can download the whole book at Google Books.

I've found the trick to clinching nails is to have the nail's head resting on a piece of steel plate or some small anvil. It makes it much easier to turn over the tip.

While I was browsing this book, I also found a description of how to swing a hammer to encourage floorboards or backboards to mate together tightly along their edges. I've done this before (by accident), but I didn't know exactly what was going on inside. The illustration (figure 5 above) shows it brilliantly.

"Fig. 5 illustrates a peculiar drawn blow of the hammer. Starting at
d, it follows the direction of the broken line in its course; the effect of which is to bend the nail in such a manner that it forces the board a close up to c, as shown at f. This blow is practiced in nailing floors and in clinching wrought nails."

Or you can try finding this device….

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Reader Questions
Bookmark and Share

Reader James Carpenter is trying to put together a list of tools to purchase as a gift for his 6-year-old nephew. Man I wish I'd had an uncle like him. The best present I got from an uncle was a "Men at Work" LP.

In any case, James has been doing a lot of research and come up with this preliminary list. What do you think of his choices?

• 6" or 8" sweep Millers Falls 30 series brace with improved Barber chuck without ratchet.
• A nice complete set of auger bits appropriate to the bit brace.
• An auger bit file appropriate for sharpening the auger bits.
• Miller Falls No 2A Hand drill. (Maybe a new $20 Schroeder Hand Drill with ¼" chuck)
• Better quality small woodworker's vise (mounted into a child-sized workbench)
• Coping saw
• Well-made Ryoba or Dozuki Japanese pull saw.
• Appropriate small hammer (likely  a 225g Japanese Octagonal hammer)
• Small crow-foot for removing small nails. (I'll skip this is if the hammer has crow-foot)
• combination square
• tape measure
• Surform tool
• Assortment of slotted and Phillips screwdrivers
• Assortment of small pliers
• possibly a few books
• child safety glasses
• Nice set of appropriate portable toolboxes.  This will either be a smaller suitcase style toolbox(s) with wheels, or a few small hand carried toolboxes small enough for my nephew to carry.
• wood glue
• rubber bands for clamps

Roughly speaking, the items higher on the list are better candidates for a used purchase than a new purchase.

If you want to help James spend some money, leave a comment below. Also, check out this article on Charles Hayward's basic list.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/11/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Marking and Measuring
Bookmark and Share

I've had a vintage panel gauge for many years, and I've hated every minute of our relationship.

The beam flops around in the head, no matter how Conan you go on the thumbscrew. And so the gauge's pin tends to move around as you make your marks. While this defect doesn't hurt the accuracy of your line to a fault, it's as annoying as using a workbench that wobbles a bit.

A few weeks ago I bought one of the new panel gauges from Lie-Nielsen for $85 and have been on a few dates with it in the shop. So far, I'm quite impressed.

The locking mechanism is totally solid. The thumb screw pushes down on one corner of the 18"-long beam, forcing it into a triangular trough in the head. Thomas Lie-Nielsen got the inspiration for this from David Charlesworth's modified marking gauges (covered in his landmark "Furniture-Making Techniques Vol. I." on page 13). And then Lie-Nielsen made some further refinements.

Instead of a pin, the panel gauge uses a V-shaped knife, which slices cleanly. And it doesn't seem to follow the grain much, which is sometimes a concern when marking with the grain with a knife.

Also, you can turn the beam around and use the panel gauge as a pencil gauge. This is a sweet function that I added to several of my own marking gauges. To insert a pencil in the beam you simply loosen a screw, drop a pencil in the provided hole and tighten the screw. I prefer a pencil gauge when rough-sizing boards because it's so much easier to see than a scratch line.

As with everything from Lie-Nielsen, the fit and finish is great. And the details make the tool a pleasure to use, including the brass wear plate on the fence of the head, and the medallion inset into the head.

And my old panel gauge? I think I'm going to nail the head to the beam and let my youngest daughter use it like a sword.

— Christopher Schwarz



Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 2/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels
Bookmark and Share

Plastic mallets can be highly durable, but they always look like plastic. Wooden mallets look great, but they sure get beat up after a few years of use.

Now Dave Jeske at Blue Spruce Toolworks has produced a mallet where every cell of the wood is infused with acrylic. This results in a mallet that looks and feels like wood, but it takes a bad-dog beating like plastic.

Jeske had one of these mallets at the Woodworking in America conference, and I ordered one shortly after returning home. (Despite the fact that I got free admission, that conference turned out to be a very expensive weekend for me.)

The mallet arrived yesterday, and the entire staff went nuts over it. Senior Editor Glen D. Huey, who has a thing about both round mallets and figured maple, held onto it for such a long time that I was a little worried that I wasn't getting it back.

Then, when I mentioned the mallet's head was infused with acrylic, we all immediately went to the shop to beat some things with it. After some serious pounding, we could barely even make a smudge on the surface. This morning I took it into the shop and beat a chisel about 120 times as hard as I could on one spot on the mallet's head.

Right now I'm looking at the mallet and cannot find the spot that took the beating.

The mallet weighs 16 ounces, the head is quilted maple and the handle is African blackwood. The two parts are joined with a stainless steel tenon and a small brass bead. If you've ever seen any of Jeske's work, then you know that it is over-the-top beautiful. The mallet costs $80. Photos do not do it justice. Check it out here on the Blue Spruce site.

And yes, I know that you can build your own highly effective mallet using shop scraps or (if that's still too expensive), may I recommend laminating together several hundred free stirring sticks from Starbucks.

Just sayin'.

If you want to read more about the acrylic infusing process (it's fascinating), check out this links to WoodSure, which performs the process using vacuums. (Think kitchen countertops, bathroom floors.) Also take note that they can add dye during the process, which creates some pretty amazing results. The process is covered in more detail here.

Jeske also uses the same acrylic-infusing process with his bench chisels with great results.

It's making me think what other tools could benefit from an acrylic injection.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 2/10/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

In what is surely one of the signs of the apocalypse, The Wood Whisperer is now selling T-shirts that mash together my likeness with the most memorable line from the forgettable 1987 movie "Spaceballs."

The T-shirt features a highly posterized image of my face (with beard, for those of you playing our home game) and the words: "May 'The Schwarz' Be With You." Sadly, this "Spaceballs" catchphrase is the most famous thing that any Schwarz (or Schwartz) has ever done.

Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) and his cohorts have come to call me "The Schwarz" – like other one-name celebs such as Cher or Madonna. This T-shirt is the result.

It's available for $15 from The Wood Whisperer on a shirt that is chestnut in color. And before anyone asks, I'm not getting a dime from these T-shirts (it all goes to Marc and Nicole); and yes, he had my permission.

Marc did send me a few of the shirts, which we'll attempt to give away here on the blog shortly with a ridiculous contest. Or, if we don't have any takers, maybe I'll make one into my own personal Woobie.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Traditional striking knives have almost disappeared. Except for Adam Cherubini's article on them in the April 2005 issue of Popular Woodworking, you'll find little written about them in this century.

Perhaps it's because they look like an eye injury waiting to happen.

After working with one for about four years, I've become quite fond of it. It seems a simple thing – so simple that I've made several striking knives from spade bits. My spade-bit knives work OK, but they are missing details that make my original knife much better.

I don't know who made my knife. It's stamped "1876" on one side and "London" on the other. The rest of the maker's mark is too faint to make out. Whoever manufactured it knew what they were doing. Here are my three favorite things about it:

The Curvy Bits: Where the knife goes from flat to round it has two curves. If you pinch those curves with your thumb and forefinger, your middle finger presses the blade against your try square with surprising force. Also, the round bit of the knife has a swelling that pushes your fingers into just the right place.

The Fulcrum: The knife balances on its swelling, which raises the pointy bit into the air about 1/4". This makes it very easy to pick the knife up off the bench. Sounds minor, but it's not.

The Pointy Bit: It's more than an awl. I use it all the time for cleaning waste out of mortises, clearing shavings from the mouths of planes and marking where hardware is going to go.

And, for the record, I still have both of my eyes and no scratches on my eyeglasses because of it. To download a drawing of my knife, click below.

StrikingKnife.pdf (285.11 KB)

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 2/6/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Sometimes brand-new chisels and planes (even from the best manufacturers) don't hold an edge well. I've seen some edges crumple like tin foil after two whacks with a mallet or two strokes on a board.

Weak edges aren't as common a problem as weak chin lines, but they do happen. When I teach a class of 18 people, for example, there's always one person with a spanking new tool that would crumble if you chopped a Moon Pie.

My solution to this problem has always been to take the tool to the grinder and create a new primary bevel. Then I grind off just a tad more. I take the tool back to the stones for honing and then (by magic) the tool holds its edge.

The strategy almost always works, but I've never known exactly why.

So I went to tool steel guru Ron Hock of Hock Tools looking for answers. As always, Ron set me straight. There could be two culprits: too much heat or too much oxygen during the manufacturing process.

"Should the blade be subjected to temperatures in excess of the steel's critical temperature (the temperature at which the iron crystals transform from ferrite to austenite) the steel will tend to form large grains, which don't stick to each other as well as we'd like," Hock writes. "This will cause the resulting steel to be very brittle and crumbly, though it will test as properly hard with a Rockwell hardness test."

If a tool breaks, you can see evidence of this problem, according to Hock. In a well-treated tool the fracture should look a very fine-grained gray (almost like gray primer paint).

"If you see sparklyness instead, it's been overheated," Hock writes, "Which is probably why it broke and you're looking at it."

Because the cutting edge of a tool is typically the thinnest part of the tool, it's the easiest part to overheat, even if the overheating is brief.

The other culprit is oxygen. As steel approaches its critical temperature, the carbon is released and is free to migrate about the steel. If there is air present when it reaches the surface (such as when heat-treating in air with a torch or forge) the carbon atom will run off with the oxygen atom to become carbon monoxide or carbon dioxide and the carbon is lost from the steel, according to Hock.

Most professional heat treaters use furnaces with atmosphere control (vacuum or inert or carbonaceous gas) to minimize this problem, which is called "decarburization."

"This creates a low-carbon skin on the steel," Hock writes. "This would not be a big deal except for the fact that the flat back of the tool is the cutting edge, and any loss of carbon results in a loss of hardness. Here again, the edge takes it in the shorts with the most to lose and the least to lose it from."

Both of these problems can completely ruin a piece of steel through-and-through. But usually the damage is localized, and you can get to the good stuff by grinding away some of the bad stuff.

Just tell your spouse you're exfoliating.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/5/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

Poke around enough old woodworking books and two things will happen. You'll become a tremendous bore at parties ("Aye, but I could find no mention of the 'pricker' tool in Nicholson, so I knew the usage had shifted…."), and you'll encounter the word "deal" over and over.

What's deal? It's easy to get the impression that deal is merely an English word for dimensional pine. But if you dig around, it's more complex than that. In one early text the author instructs you to build the project using "pine or deal." Huh?

Let's hit the books.

In my library, the accounts I dug up agree that deal is a plank of pine or spruce that is 9" wide. But they disagree on the thickness. According to Bernard E. Jones's "Practical Woodworker" (10 Speed Press), deal is 9" wide and no more than 4" thick. Charles H. Hayward's "Carpentry for Beginners" agrees that deal is 9" wide, but says the thickness is between 2" and 4". And Paul N. Hasluck's "The Handyman's Book" states that deal is 9" wide and 2-1/2" thick.

What is also helpful to know is that deal is just one word that English books use to describe standard sizes of wood. According to Hayward, here are the others:

Plank: A piece of wood that is 11" wide or wider and 2" to 4" thick.

Batten: A piece of wood that is 5" to 8" wide and 2" to 4" thick.

Board: Anything that is more than 4" wide and less than 2" thick. This term is usually used with floor boards and tongued-and-grooved boards.

Scantling:
Small bits that are 2" to 4-1/2" wide and 2" to 4" thick.

Strip: Pieces that are less than 4" wide and less than 2" thick.

But that's not all. There are different kinds of deal. Deal that is Northern pine (Pinus sylvestris) can be called Baltic red deal, Dantzic deal or yellow deal. And Spruce (Picea excelsa) shows up as white deal. And Canadian spruce (Picea nigra) can be called New Brunswick spruce deal.

So there you go. Now you can read the old books and understand that word a little better. And you've enhanced your ability to induce ennui at will.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Free Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Like tools? We do! Read our latest tool coverage HERE.
• Looking for free project plans? We have hundreds. Click HERE.
• Learn a new woodworking technique today. Click HERE.
• Want more videos? See all our free videos HERE.
• Check out our selection of half-price woodworking books HERE.
• Get 8 years of Popular Woodworking on one CD. Click HERE.


Posted 2/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Custom sawmaker Andrew Lunn has become a part-time 911 paramedic to become a full-time sawmaker. Today is his first day on the job at Eccentric Toolworks.

"My idea from the beginning was simply to make the nicest saws I can, and that if I did that, everything else would work itself out," Lunn wrote in an e-mail. "There always seems to be a market for high-quality work, whatever kind of work it happens to be. And sometimes when you have something in mind you just have to start making it, as it's nothing someone else would maybe even think to ask you to make."

You might remember the review I wrote of Andrew's dovetail saw (find it here). Since then, I've been testing his carcase saw, which is also incredible. And while speaking to some Columbus-area woodworkers last month I got to handle a couple of Andrew's panel saws. Everything I've seen of his is well-balanced, highly tuned and inspiring.

He says he currently has a fairly robust number of orders to fill and he will be using handmade saw-setting hammer (shown above) a lot more in the coming days. I hope to do my part to keep him busy – I'm reviewing his dovetail saw in the forthcoming Spring 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 2/4/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

So I've stared at the image above enough to go cross-eyed. And I'm out of ideas.

Earlier this week, Mike Wenzloff asked me if I knew what these round-looking things were beneath nearly all the benches shown in the La Forge Royale woodworking catalog from the early 20th century.

They show up on all the large benches in this French catalog. The things are drawn to suggest that they are round. And they extend quite a ways below the benchtop. All of them appear to pierce the stretchers below the benchtop.

Wenzloff wondered if they were perhaps a wooden screw that would secure the benchtop to the base. That's the best explanation I could come up with, too. But I wanted to tap the collective wisdom and weirdness of the Internet.

Got any ideas? Post them in the comments below.

To make things easier for you, I've uploaded a high-resolution scan of this particular bench that you can download by clicking on the link below.

LaForgeBench222-223.jpg (1.43 MB)

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

One of the few other people on this earth who understand my sickness affection for workbenches is Rob Giovannetti.

I met Rob at a Gallotapalooza event outside Chicago several years ago, and we've stayed in contact via e-mail. Rob – and I say this in the most affectionate manner possible – has a workbench problem.

He's built eight workbenches (all different styles) and taught two classes about it. You might remember is Rob-O workbench from 2006 that I featured here on the blog.

Rob is about to embark on another bench-building adventure real soon. His next bench I have named the "Manufactured Wood Smurf Bench." Long story. It's going to be cool when it's done, I'm sure.

In the meantime, Rob sent me the following list of the top 10 things he's learned about workbenches. It's an interesting list.

— Christopher Schwarz


1. Benches don't need to made of hardwood.
I've made several benches from hard maple, but the ones I've made from Borg Douglas fir worked just as well and were usually easier to make.

2. I have a love/hate relationship with tail vises.
I've tried every vise you could think of as an end vise, including none, and I keep coming back to the tail vise. I can't fully explain why this is, but it just is.

3. The shoulder vise is the easiest face vise to use, but the most time consuming and complicated to build. Go figure. If you like to dovetail and hand cut your tenons, I recommend this as the vise of choice. A close second would be a twin-screw.

4. Square dogs aren't worth the effort. This may sound like laziness, but aside from a sense of "tradition," there is no reason for me to have square dogs. Round holes are quicker and easier to make, and they hold just as well. Plus, the 3/4" holes can be used for a wide variety of other purposes.

5. If one row of dogs is good, one is even better.
In other words, I've not encountered a single situation where multiple rows of dogs was a benefit; and I have a bench with four rows of 'em.

6. Tool trays are for people who are clutter-aholics.
I am one of them. Even with my tools hanging above my bench, I'm much more likely to throw a tool in the tray than put it back where it belongs. I've found more organized people don't use them.

7. A good bench NEEDS a board jack. Whether the base is flush with the front edge of the top or not, a sliding deadman is a must-have accessory.

8. The only reasons I can figure for having endcaps on a bench are
either 1) they support a tool tray at the rear of the bench, or 2) they support a vise of some kind on one, or both, ends of the bench. I don't believe an endcap has the rigidity to keep a top from cupping.

9. If I had a dedicated gluing/assembly table, my bench would have no finish on it at all.
Even with dogs, wood on wood is the best grip you can get. Even one coat of oil can make a benchtop overly slippery.

10. None of these things apply if you can make masterwork furniture on a sheet of plywood on sawhorses. Some of the best work I've seen has come from the simplest of assembly tables; but if you do a lot of hand tool work, I think the aforementioned points will help make building furniture much easier.

Please note I didn't mention plywood as a bench material. Truth be told, I don't know much about building benches from man-made materials. I do, however, have an idea of building a top from 3" wide ripped Baltic birch and face gluing them together to form a core. Laminate with hardwood veneer or hardboard on the top and bottom, and add equal thickness solid wood skirting around the edges, I think it would be quite suitable for pounding on without much flex.

— Rob Giovannetti


Posted 1/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Miniaturist David Brookshaw sent me a photo of a cabinetmaker's tool chest in 1/12 scale that begs for your "zoom tool."

We've been exploring all the tiny tools in the chest this afternoon when we should be editing. Check out the sliding T-bevel. The glue pot. The early strap hammers.

Download the photo yourself and take a look.

dollshouse_chest.JPG (635.15 KB)

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/30/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Perhaps I should break my vow to my wife and build some more workbenches.

During a routine audit of our web traffic on this blog, I was surprised to learn that the most popular page on the blog in 2008 was the "Workbenches" page. (You can access this page by clicking on "Workbenches" in the Navigation bar at right. It calls up all the stories I've tagged as dealing with workbenches and workholding. More than 20,000 people browsed that page last year.

Here the next nine most-popular stories, along with some updates.

2. Free Drawing of the Knockdown Holtzapffel Workbench. The lesson: Give away something free about a workbench and it's bound to attract some attention.  

3. First Look at the Jointmaker Pro. This incredible new saw from Bridge City Tools attracted a lot of interest and controversy. Just this week, Bridge City announced that it is assembling the Jointmaker Pro. You can read all about that here.

4. The Handplanes page. Click on "Handplanes" in the Navigation bar and hope you have a good connection to the Internet.

5. A Japanese Workbench. This was a real shocker. Not a single person commented on this blog post. And it had a cute photo of one of Harrelson Stanley's kids. Almost 9,000 people read the story. Go figure.

6. Free eDrawings of the Tabouret Table. This was a popular project (I get mail about it almost every week). So no surprises here.

7. My First Pair of Pantyhose. Note to self: Write more stories with undergarments and cross-dressing in the headlines.

8. The Holtzapffel Workbench. Another workbench story. Click.

9. The Electronic Drawings page. This is encouraging. We really like the SketchUp and eDrawing files we provide. And it looks like you guys do, too. Or perhaps we just got a lot of clicks from Eastern European thieves who are ripping us off.

10. New Premium Handplanes From Stanley. Production on these planes has been delayed while Stanley officials make sure that the quality is where they want it. Officials say they are very close to being ready to crank up production.

Next week: The least popular stories of 2008. Or maybe not. I'm afraid it will be my "Personal Favorites" page.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 1/29/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels
Bookmark and Share

Reaching underneath my tool rack can be like sticking my hand in a lion's mouth.

All of the dangling edge tools have alternately shaved, nicked and scared the bejeezus out of me over the years. So I try to protect the tips of my sharp tools whenever I can. And when a tool doesn't come with a tip protector, I make one from a business card.

Fold the business card in half and lay the tip of the tool into the crease. Fold the card shut on the tool.

Wrap the sides of the business card around the edges of the tool. For narrow tools you might have to snip some of the business card away.

Then wrap the card tightly with tape and cover the whole thing with gold leaf (just kidding). I use painter's tape, which we have in abundance here.

These home-brew protectors stay on fairly well and last a long time.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/28/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels
Bookmark and Share

Dave Jeske's tool-making shop in Oregon City, Ore., is in exactly the same place as his new bench chisel: halfway between the islands and toolmaking traditions of Japan and England.

Like a Japanese chisel, the new Blue Spruce Toolworks bench chisel connects the blade and the handle using a combination of a socket and a tang. It also has a price tag that is more in line with a handmade Japanese tool (a set of five Blue Spruce chisels costs $435.)

But like a Western chisel, the chisel's blade is long and flat on its face. And the handle is something else entirely. It has a Western feel, but it also has a high-tech secret (more on that in a minute).

This week I set up a 3/8" Blue Spruce chisel and put it through its paces in the shop. It's an impressive tool, and is different than competitors in many significant ways.

Blades for Chopping
The 5"-long blade is ideal for chopping out waste between dovetails. The sides of the blade are beveled perfectly to get the tool into the acute corners of dovetails without bruising your tails. The blade is A2 and comes with a 30° grind, also an ideal setup for chopping all day without having to rehone.

The unbeveled face of the tool I tested was fairly flat. It took about 20 minutes to polish it up from #1,000 up to #8,000. That time is a lot shorter than most garden-variety chisels from Germany but longer than the Lie-Nielsens, which are always delightfully flat right out of the wrapper.

The Tang and Socket
Many woodworkers will be delighted to see that Jeske adopted the tang-and-socket approach to attach the blade to the handle. This complex connection method gives you the best of both worlds. You get the durability of a socket and the secure connection offered by the tang. Pure tang chisels tend to split their handles after some abuse. Pure socket chisels tend to have their handles come loose when the weather changes.

Like all of Jeske's tools, you can really see how he fusses over quality when you examine the transition between metal and wood. It's a perfect mate.

The Handles
The 4-1/2"-long handles are longer than the Lie-Nielsen handles, which some people will like. This is really a point of personal preference. The longer handle tends to add weight, which some woodworkers don't like. And indeed, the Blue Spruce chisels are heavier than the Lie-Nielsens thanks to the longer blades and handles. But they aren't ungainly. You can still wield the Blue Spruce like a pencil when you are chopping.

The most surprising thing about the handles is that they are figured maple that has been infused with acrylic. At Jeske's insistence, I beat the handle with a 16 oz. steel hammer about 20 times and couldn't see a single dent. Impressive.

In all, I think Jeske has a winner here. After I get some more experience with the tool in our shop, I'll report back on its edge life and overall comfort.

— Christopher Schwarz

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 1/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Sometimes patience pays. Back in 2002, the Taschen publishing company released "The Woodbook" – a ridiculously priced and gorgeous book filled with photos of 354 American species of trees that showed you the end grain, the quartersawn grain and the plainsawn grain of each type.

If my memory serves, the book was about $80 to $100 – now it fetches $200 on the secondary market. No matter how cool the book was, I wasn't going to buy it at that price. Senior Editor David Thiel got his hands on one (somehow), so I was able to enjoy it vicariously as long as I handled it with latex gloves (not included).

"The Woodbook" was actually a reprint of "The American Woods" (1888-1913) by Romeyn Beck Hough. The original version had actual veneer slices of each species on every page and was in 14 volumes. It is, naturally, very rare. So finding the original was also out of the question.

On Friday, this story got a happy ending. Taschen has reprinted the book yet again, improved the typography and lowered the price. It is now named "The Wood Book" (that extra space comes at no extra charge). And the list price is $39.99, but you can find it for sale for a shade more than $25.

This version is also a lot easier to read. The 2002 edition had black pages and the letters were in gold. You read that right. Perhaps you weren't actually supposed to read the descriptions; the only way you really could read it at all was to try to get the light to reflect off the letters just right.

The new 2007 edition has white paper with black letters. So not only can you read the text (which comes in English, French and German), but you also can see the drawings of the leaves of each species as well.

My two gripes with this book are the way the species are organized and the lack of technical data. It's inconvenient to find a species you are looking for unless you know its Latin name. Then you have to find it in the index to find the page number. But that's a quibble. As to the data in the book, most other sources contain more information on the physical attributes of the wood.

But the photos make up for any deficiencies in the text. They are gorgeous. Sharp. Detailed. And in color.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/26/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I always encourage people to make their workbenches longer. But in the case of David Brookshaw, I'm just dead wrong on that point.

Brookshaw of Gloucester, England, makes 1/12-scale miniatures of tools and workshop equipment. Have you ever seen the book "Tools Rare and Ingenious" (Taunton Press)? Those are his tools on the dust jacket.

Right now, Brookshaw is building a fully equipped Gentleman's Victorian Workshop, which will be on display at The Kensington Dollshouse Festival on May 15 to 17. He sent us some of the photos of the pieces he's building, and they are extraordinary.

For starters, he built a scale model of the Roubo-style workbench we have in our shop. Brookshaw's version is 6" long and is made from boxwood, which takes fine detail. The vise screw, which features a 1/8"-diameter shaft, is fully functional.

Even the holdfasts work. Brookshaw says a hammer blow will shatter them, but thumb pressure alone makes them work.

You can visit Brookshaw's web site at davidbrookshaw.com to see more photos of his work, including a complete tool chest, a 17th-century Italian brace and two recreations of famous handplanes.

Brookshaw promised to send more photos of his progress in building the shop as it progresses.

— Christopher Schwarz

Brookshaw's fully functional drill press.

The wheel lathe for the workshop. Note the turning tools laid out on the folding rule.

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 1/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Finishing
Bookmark and Share

Editor's note: In the Summer 2008 issue we promised to reprint our article on an "Authentic Arts & Crafts Finish" from 2007. We just noticed that we neglected to post the article. So here it is!

— Christopher Schwarz


We discover a three-step process that looks great and is incredibly simple to apply.

Simplicity is a hallmark of Arts & Crafts furniture, but the proper finish has become a matter of mystery and complication. Gustav Stickley might be the cause of this. Writing in his magazine, The Craftsman, in the early 1900s he explained how to use ammonia to fume white oak, how to even out the color with dye dissolved in shellac, and how to top coat with shellac and dark wax. Then Gus throws a curve ball and states that in his factory they have greater facilities, so they use something different.

Stickley never details what methods he actually used. In the early years of production, his factory did use fuming and shellac, but as his furniture became more popular, these methods couldn’t keep up with demand. And there is good evidence that circa 1906, Craftsman furniture began to be finished with aniline dye-based stains, and early versions of lacquer.

One of the common misconceptions about the original Craftsman finishes is the appearance of the flakes or rays of the quartersawn white oak. Today, people want to accentuate those rays to make them “pop.” Most stains, followed by a clear finish, will give you that effect. An authentic finish, however, is more subtle; the flake of the grain is evident, but it doesn’t smack you in the face. The big advantage of fuming is that it changes the color chemically, resulting in an even color between the flakes and the rest of the grain.

Exposing the wood to ammonia fumes, then top coating with amber shellac followed with a dark paste wax, will give you color and sheen that will closely match original Arts & Crafts pieces. The disadvantage of fuming is that you’re working with some dangerous chemicals. To get a good effect in a reasonable amount of time you need to work with 26 percent ammonia. The easiest place to find it is from a company that sells supplies for blueprinting. Janitorial ammonia, at about 10 percent solution, can be found in many hardware stores and will work, but not as quickly.

To make a fuming tent, I cobble together a frame from wood and cover it with plastic, securing the seams with spring clamps to make it airtight. I wear eye goggles, rubber gloves and an approved respirator while I pour the ammonia into a plastic container. When the fuming is completed in 24 to 48 hours, I put the protective gear back on, open a flap on the plastic and put the lid on the container. Then I vent the remaining fumes outside with a 20" box fan.

The next best finish I’ve found is alcohol-soluble aniline dye (W.D. Lockwood “Fumed Oak”), followed by shellac and wax. This produces nearly the same coloring and effect as fuming, but the risk is that the color will fade because dyes aren’t entirely lightfast. In the Spring 2005 issue, we recommended General Finishes “Java” gel stain, a color that has since been discontinued. Some of our staff liked it, but I thought it a bit too dark and too red. I also don’t like working with gel stains, so I went in search of a finish that would look right, resist fading and be easy to apply.

There are some recipes that involve several steps to get the color right and evenly applied. The general idea is to apply the color in stages to tone down the ray flakes. The results look good, but the process is complicated. After several experiments I lighted on a simple method using products available from a home center. It uses a stain to get a good base color, a tinted Danish oil as a glaze, and amber shellac for warmth and a slight golden tone.

It’s important not to sand the wood to too fine a grit. Sand to #120 grit with a random-orbit sander then hand sand with #150 grit. If you go finer, the oak becomes polished and the stain won’t absorb well. After dusting the surface, apply Olympic Interior “Special Walnut” oil-based wood stain with a rag, saturating the surface. Let it sit for 15 minutes then wipe the surface dry. The next day, rag on one coat of Watco “Dark Walnut” Danish oil. Again, saturate the surface, let it sit for 15 minutes then wipe dry. The next day, rag on one coat of Zinsser’s Bulls Eye amber shellac.

When the shellac has dried overnight, the surface is lightly rubbed with a nylon abrasive pad and given a coat of paste wax. The color is very close to the warm brown you see in antiques, and can be made darker by applying more coats of Danish oil or shellac. Achieving a good finish doesn’t get much easier than this.

— Robert W. Lang


Posted 1/23/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

"Ye Cabinet-makers! Brave workers in wood,
As you work for the ladies, your work must be good
And Joiners and Carpenters, far off and near,
Stick close to your trades, and you've nothing to fear."

— from "Mechanics' Song" by Absalom Aimwell


I'm fascinated by Roman handplanes. Ever since I stumbled on the form while reading W.L. Goodman's "The History of Woodworking Tools" I've wondered a lot about the tools and their unusual grips. A couple years ago I even built a Roman-style plane (check the links here and here).

So when the December 2008 issue of The Chronicle showed up on my doorstep yesterday I was immediately sucked into an article about 15 of these planes, most of them discovered quite recently. The article, by Derek A. Long, shows that Roman planes were more diverse than we thought. He shows planes with wooden soles instead of the traditional metal. Plus, tools with different grips and shapes. And there are lots of photos to puzzle over.

As a result, I wasn't much help with the kids' homework last night.

There was lots in that issue that encouraged bad parenting. There's an interesting article about the mechanics' societies in early America and the cool certificates they issued their members (membership could be quite expensive – a week's wage). These certificates were embellished with symbols of the trades, including a beehive for industriousness, Archimedes for the combination of the intellectual and the practical, and plumb squares to represent (at times) the balance between commerce and the service to the community.

These societies could even have their own songs (quoted above).

You can subscribe to The Chronicle by joining the Early American Industries Association (called the EAIA for short) for just $35 a year. If you are interested in traditional tools, the EAIA and the Mid-West Tool Collectors Association are the two best organizations to join. Their publications are excellent. And the research they support helps illuminate the past.

Now if you'll excuse me I need to start composing a Woodworking Magazine song. Anyone know a word that rhymes with "magazine?"

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

You know that winter has arrived when every handsaw you pick up has loose sawnuts.

This week I've been doing a bit of sawing to prepare to talk to the Woodworkers of Central Ohio on Saturday. (If you're in Columbus, Ohio, this weekend stop by the meeting. Sawmaker Andrew Lunn is going to be there.) And pretty much every saw above my bench has loose sawnuts because the handles have shrunk.

Loose nuts make me nuts. Especially the split nuts, which require a special split driver to tighten them. There are a couple commercial nut drivers available from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and Tools for Working Wood, but those drivers are not universal. They work best on the saws sold by that company.

To fill in the gaps, I made my own nut driver, and it handles about 90 percent of the saws new and old. Here's how I did it:

I bought a "Pin-Eez" tool from Ross Tools. This $12.95 device is used to remove hinge pins from doors. And while it works great for that, it can be modified slightly to be a superb nut driver.

The stock Pin-Eez is about 5/8" wide, which is too wide for most sawnuts for joinery saws. So I took the Pin-Eez to the grinder and ground down the sides until the tip was 7/16" wide. That's it.

The Pin-Eez is otherwise perfect for the job of tightening up sawnuts. The tip is already ground to a thin profile, and the recess between the two forks is perfect for avoiding the center bolt. And the steel is excellent – very hard – and it never deforms.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 1/22/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

I'm getting better at focusing the toy EyeClops microscope camera I bought for $20. It takes a steady hand and a light touch. I've been looking at the edges of my cutting tools (still too scary to show in public) and at different woods.

It makes me feel like I'm in 8th grade science class again.

Above is a 200x photo of one of sawmaker Andrew Lunn's crosscut teeth on a carcase saw. A couple more photos are below. If I keep using this thing, I'm sure I'll come up with a great woodworking revelation. Or I'll finally give up and just start looking at my ear wax.

— Christopher Schwarz


Wayne Anderson's signature on a brass plane at 200x. I think this is part of the "y."

Two 1/64 lines on a combination square at 400x.


Posted 1/21/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

There are still some spots available in the class on handplanes that Thomas Lie-Nielsen and I are teaching in April at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking. This is the only class I am teaching in 2009.

The weekend class is April 25-26 at the school, which is just south of Indianapolis. The class is fast paced because Thomas and I cover a lot of ground about the history, theory and use of handplanes. And students get plenty of hands-on time to put the lessons into practice on the excellent Lie-Nielsen cabinetmaker's workbenches at the school.

Here, in a nutshell, are the major areas we cover.

• Handplane anatomy and geometry.
Thomas and I dissect the different types of bench planes and explain their differences and similarities. We also debate the practical differences between bevel-up and bevel-down planes. We also delve into the geometry of the tool and explain the trade-offs you'll have to make with your angle of attack, the effort to use the tool and the amount of tear-out you're experiencing.

• Sharpening. We show you what real (not theoretical) sharpening looks like in the shop. We take a new plane iron from the wrapper and prepare for use it in about five minutes. We also show you how to get a curved cutting edge (essential to bench plane work), and how to get extremely straight edges on your chisels and joinery plane irons. After the lecture, all the students put the knowledge to use by sharpening their own plane irons.

• Use. Learn to flatten a board with handplanes, whether it's rough from the sawmill or fresh from an electric planer. We show you how to detect and remove twist and cupping from a board using historically accurate techniques. Then every student gets to put these principles into practice on their own board.

• Your questions. Every year, the students' questions also fill up a significant amount of time. Some years we emphasize joinery planes. Other years we discuss moulding planes, specialty planes, tool maintenance, rust, manufacturing tolerances, rehabbing old tools, tools in the works at Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and so forth.

• A Tour of the Toolworks. Thomas always brings a great video that shows how he makes his tools, from casting to polishing and assembly. He narrates the whole thing and takes questions as he goes. If you've ever wondered how your planes are made, you'll find out. Plus Thomas is always happy to sign your tools. (And me, I'll sign anything.)

The class is $300. You can register online at marcadams.com through this link or you can call 317-535-4013. You can learn more about the school and other excellent classes there through this link.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/21/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

You can now watch the segment on Lie-Nielsen Toolworks on “The Martha Stewart Show” on the program’s web site.

The 4:41 segment is surprisingly detailed and technical. And, of course, it looks good too. You get to see some really cool stuff, including the plane bodies being milled, the metal screws being cut and the front knobs being turned. The segment also shows you Lie-Nielsen’s heat-treating operation and some glimpses of the cryogenic treatment they use on the company’s A2 blades.

All in all, it’s well worth a visit. Check it out here. On the right side of the screen, scroll over. The Lie-Nielsen video is in the second group.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Alert reader Bengt Nilsson of Stockholm, Sweden, sent in this great photo of a joiner's bench that was recovered from the Vasa – a Swedish battleship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628.

Nilsson took the photo while touring the Vasa Museum with an American exchange student. He estimates that the bench is about 24" high, 16" deep and 8' long.

It has some interesting features. Check out the location of the crochet and the holes below the open part of the hook. Those holes appear to line up with the holes in the sliding deadman. This set-up makes it easy to rig up a long board to plane its edge.

Also interesting: The angled legs at the rear of the bench. This feature is common on English benches and some French and Canadian benches I've seen. One possible explanation for its appearance here might be that it helped the bench nest against the hull. You often see that explanation for the shape of sea chests.

However, the more likely explanation is that it is for stability. At only 16" wide, the angled legs would help the bench's stability when working across the grain of your work. Also curious: The lack of a rear stretcher.

If you'd like to explore this photo even more, download the high-resolution version below (be sure to check out the planes and other tools in the display case above the bench).

Vasa_Bench_Large.jpg (517.45 KB)

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 1/20/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery & Fastening
Bookmark and Share

Last year I got to tour one of the Lee Valley Tools warehouses in Ottawa, Ontario. No wait, don't leave just yet. A Lee Valley warehouse is like the Willy Wonka Chocolate Factory.

Yes, there are huge metal racks filled with bins for garden equipment, tools and Painters' Pyramids. But the Lee family also has a tendency to pick up odd items and preserve them in the warehouse. Example: an entire old-school hardware store – packed up and stored in boxes. There were entire pallets of odd-shaped metal parts or leftover factory stock of very old screws that Leonard Lee or his son Robin picked up while on an adventure.

Sometimes these finds end up in the catalog (remember the awesome French knives a few years ago, or the bronze hinges?). Other times, the items just sit and wait for the right purpose.

As Robin Lee was showing a group of us around his newest warehouse, his hand reached into a waist-high bin and pulled out a tidily wrapped cardboard box.

These were Swiss horseshoe nails, he explained. Every nail was perfectly formed and shiny. (Would you expect anything less from the Swiss?) And he had hundreds of these boxes.

The nails looked familiar to me. And because I took an interest in them, Robin gave me a box. It was a fun time getting them through U.S. Customs. ("Yes sir, Swiss horseshoe nails. No, I'm not a farrier. No, I have no idea what else they could be used for.")

When I got home, I realized that these nails looked a lot like ancient Roman nails, which were the forerunner of the classic cut nail of the 18th and 19th centuries. Roman nails have a square shank and taper on all four edges to a point. Some were shaped very similarly to these farrier's nails. Other have a head that was obviously designed to be proud of the surface. Cut nails have a rectangular shank and taper on only two edges.



I toyed with the idea of using the horseshoe nails in the 18th-century dry sink I recently finished building, but my experiments with the nails made me think twice. Because the Roman-style nails taper on all four sides, they have an even greater tendency to split the work. I tried a variety of pilot holes, but all I got were lots and lots of splits.

Perhaps the nails were better used in wetter wood, which would be more plastic. Perhaps I'm doing it wrong. I do know one thing: These nails hold like crazy. I had a heck of a time pulling them out, even from a badly split board.

In the end, I didn't feel sorry for myself that I couldn't figure it out. But I sure feel sorry for the Swiss horses.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Last week I compared the Lie-Nielsen and Veritas small router planes and concluded that I really would like a Lie-Nielsen with a closed throat.

So, of course, a reader showed me how it can be done.

Tony Sutton closed the throat on his Lie-Nielsen router plane using some UniBond 5-minute epoxy. Sutton built up some dams on the router plane using modeling clay and then filled them in with the mixed adhesive.

After the resin cured for an hour he trimmed it with a carving chisel. Then he waited 24 hours and sanded the sole flat. Finally, he painted the epoxy black (nice touch) with his daughter's acrylic paint.

And it works! Thanks Tony.

Next week: Knitting a cozy for your router plane.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 1/19/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The first time I saw a chisel plane was at an antique market in Kentucky. It was sitting out on a table with a bunch of common planes. Every person who walked up to the table picked it up to check its price tag, but the seller knew what he had. The original Stanley No. 97 "Cabinet Makers' Edge Plane" is a fairly rare bird.

It turns out that wooden-bodied chisel planes are also uncommon, according to John M. Whelan's essential book "The Wooden Plane." As a result, I've always been a bit skeptical as to how useful the form is.

One user told me that he used it for trimming plugs flush to the surrounding surface. I haven't had much luck with the plane for this purpose. Most of my plugs are a tough species, such as oak. And no matter how closely I saw them, there's still too much wood there for me to pare with a chisel plane. Instead, I've had far more success using a plain old smoothing plane for trimming plugs flush.

Lately, however, I have found a few instances where the chisel plane earned its keep.

• Fairing one surface to another. Recently I had to extend the slot on my bench's top to install some new vise hardware. I sawed out the waste and then used the chisel plane to bring the sawn surface into the same plane as the existing slot. It worked brilliantly. The sole of the chisel plane rode the existing slot and pared the face grain with ease. And because there was no mouth on the tool I could work right up to the end of the slot. This operation could have been done with a paring chisel, but it was much easier with the chisel plane. Similarly, the chisel plane helps me fair up the corners of rabbets after I've chopped out the waste with a chisel. Again, this can also be done with a chisel, but the chisel plane makes for tidier results.

• Removing glue. I've been turning to the chisel plane to remove the globs of glue that remain after a panel glue-up. I pare these globs away by working across the grain. The chisel plane works well at this because it doesn't have a mouth. When I'd do this with a block plane, softer globs of glue would get squished by the tool and make a mess of things. I also prefer the chisel plane to a glue scraper because it is less likely to damage the panel.

• Removing finish sags. When I get sags on my film finish, I like to cut them away before adding another coat. I used to use an old block plane iron for this, but it can be hard to hold on vertical surfaces. The chisel plane makes quick work of sags.

In the end, I don't think the chisel plane is an essential tool for your kit – all of the operations above could be handled by other edge tools. But they are handy. If you have found a good use for your chisel plane, I'd like to hear about it, and so would other woodworkers. Post a comment and let us know.

– Christopher Schwarz

When I first bought my chisel plane I tried using it to trim some oak plugs flush. It was not ideal.

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 1/16/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When I was researching historic workbenches, I tried like crazy to get my hands on a style of bench vise that (to my knowledge) isn't made in this country anymore.

Featured prominently in the French "La Forge Royale" catalog from the early 20th century, the "Ideale Vise" is a quick-release metal vise that has some interesting characteristics.

First, it doesn't appear to have any screw-thread mechanism – at least from the illustration. And from accounts that I dug up, it appears that you turn the handle one way to release pressure and then turn it the other way to apply pressure.

I've only seen one example of this vise (which might tell me something), and it was disassembled at the time. So I haven't ever been able to give one a try. If anyone out there has used one, I'd like to hear about it. How does it function? Does it apply sufficient pressure? Is it fussy to maintain?

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. A quick comment for those having trouble posting comments. The frustrating blog software we use here has a timer. If you take too long (more than about five minutes) then you get timed out. Whenever you post a comment, enter the captcha code, press submit. When the blog refreshes, scroll down. If you timed out, the blog will ask you for the Captcha code again. Sorry for the trouble….


Posted 1/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Though most of you will be watching anyway, set your TiVo to record the Martha Stewart show at 10 a.m. (EST) Thursday, Jan. 15. That's because in addition to all the great winter skin-care tips from Sue Ciminelli, the show pays a visit to Lie-Nielsen Toolworks in Warren, Maine.

Don't believe me? Visit the show's guide here and look under the tab for Thursday. You'll get to see (in addition to some good-looking cheeses) Thomas Lie-Nielsen planing a board and being interviewed about his tools.

If you miss the show, it should get archived. I'll keep you posted.

This is tragic news for me actually. It means Glen Huey and I are going to have to skip "Beverly Hillbillies" tomorrow.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 1/14/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

A drawing of Jim Tolpin on the job from "Jim Tolpin's Woodworking Wit & Wisdom."

I remember binding my first book when I was about 10 (it was an illustrated guide to the military vehicles in World War II) on my workbench out in the shop. So I've been a writer for about as long as I've been a woodworker.

Plus, for about six years, I wrote copy that described the products for the WoodWorker's Book Club, so I got to read just about every woodworking book published.

As a result, I have some real favorites when it comes to the craft of writing about the craft of woodworking. If you like good verbiage, here are a few writers who you might want to check out.

Jonathan Binzen: Though I've never met the fellow, sometimes I feel like a skin stalker. I read everything he writes, whether it's for Woodwork magazine or Fine Woodworking, even if I'm not interested in the topic. Hands down, Binzen writes the best profiles of woodworkers. He gets great details. He teases narrative out of difficult subjects. He obviously loves woodworking. Look through your copies of these magazines and I think you'll agree. And check out "Arts & Crafts Furniture," the book he wrote with Kevin Rodel. It's a great read.

Jim Tolpin: Without his book "Measure Twice, Cut Once," I think I'd still be a hopeless hack. Tolpin's gift is that he can explain complex ideas (such as proportioning furniture) with an economy of words. And he has a gift for memorable phrases. He once described the lever cap of his block plane like it was a "worry stone in his hand." Also, "The Toolbox Book" is essential (and fun) reading. My copy is just about to fall apart.

Scott Landis: To me Landis is like one of the so-called "New Journalists," like Tom Wolfe or Hunter S. Thompson. Landis seems to throw himself into his writing almost obsessively (read "The Workbench Book" if you don't believe me). And his enthusiasm is contagious. Plus, with Landis, no detail seems too small. I like that.

Anthony Guidice: What happened to Guidice? He seems to have disappeared, and that's too bad. When I first read "The Seven Essentials of Woodworking" I howled in disbelief. I didn't agree with half the stuff in the book. Yet is was written in such a convincing and powerful way that I consumed every word and recommend the book to beginners. It gets you fired up. Also, Guidice wrote the best interview ever with Frank Klausz, in Woodwork magazine.

Graham Blackburn: I've always liked the way Blackburn weaves history, shop practice and personal narrative into his books and articles. Plus, I've always been jealous that he can draw. You can get a great dose of his style of writing from "Traditional Woodworking Handtools."

By the way, my first publishing effort didn't go so well. I remember presenting my little bound book to my parents that evening. They looked it over. They looked at each other. Then I think it was my dad who said: "Have you ever thought about becoming a lawyer?"

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 1/13/2009 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Nothing is more fundamental to woodworking than the wood itself, however even professional cabinetmakers struggle with understanding how wood works and how to make it work for them.

In our Spring 2009 issue, we show you how the way that a tree grows in the woods directly affects the way we design and build furniture. And understanding wood is the first step to building projects that look better, last longer and are easier to build. Here are a few of the stories we've been researching for the next issue for you. This issue will arrive in your mailbox if you order your subscription by Jan. 30. The issue ships to subscribers in mid-February and will be on newsstands in early March.

• Composing With Grain: Paying close attention to the grain lines in a board is essential to building a harmonious-looking piece of furniture. We show you the rarely explored rules of composing with wood grain that the best furniture makers use to ensure that their projects look their best.

• Understanding Grain Direction: Most people learn to read the grain of boards through trial-and-error. Few people know that there are two reliable ways to read aboard's grain direction: using the edges of a board, and using the end grain and face grain. Knowing both of these methods will ensure you will work faster and with far less tear-out.

• 18th Century Connecticut Dry Sink:
Our cover project features an early American dry sink with classic lines. We show you how to build this project using either traditional or modern techniques.

• Water-resistant Finishes: Some of the projects we build, such as dining room tables and bathroom mirrors, need to survive in wet environments. What's the most water-resistant finish that can be applied easily at home with simple tools? We find out.

• Countersinks:
There are so many kinds of countersinks on the market that even we're bewildered. We explore when you need a tapered countersink vs. when you need a straight one. Plus we explore how quickly and cleanly some of the new countersink designs cut.

Plus, as always, we features shop tips in our Shortcuts section, your Letters, a woodworking Glossary and absolutely no advertisements whatsoever.

This issue can be yours if you subscribe by Jan. 30, which will get you four issues for $19.96. Click here to subscribe or call 800-283-3542.

— Christopher Schwarz, editor


Posted 1/12/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Joinery & Fastening
Bookmark and Share


Pint-sized router planes see a lot of use in my shop. Instead of using a trim router, I always prefer to cut mortises for hinges with a chisel and a router plane. So as soon as Veritas and Lie-Nielsen started making small router planes based loosely on the Stanley No. 271 about 18 months ago, I was first in line.

I now have many hours on both tools – I've sharpened each one about seven or eight times. And I have developed some firm likes and dislikes about each tool. The next paragraph is a spoiler, so if you like a little suspense when reading blogs, skip it.

Neither router plane is perfect. But nor is there one clear winner in the category. If I could combine the best of both tools (the Lie-Veritas?) I think it would be the router plane of my dreams. Here's the lowdown on each tool.



The Veritas Small Router Plane
First the good: This plane has a closed throat and is quite compact. The closed throat allows you to work on the edges of boards without any danger of the tool tipping. The downside to a closed throat is you sacrifice a little visibility – it's a tad more difficult to see where you are cutting.

The compact size is a big plus with the Veritas. The tool is 3-1/4" at its widest, and that is an asset when you are cutting hinge mortises inside assembled casework. Sometimes larger router planes are too big and ram into the top or bottom of your case. This little guy sneaks in everywhere I ask it to go. The fit and finish is excellent, as is the knurled brass locking knob. The iron is durable.

The downside: I don't care for the round shank that the iron is mounted to. No matter how tightly I secure the locking knob, the shank can shift if you take a big bite of wood with the plane. When the shank slips, usually the blade height doesn't change, but the iron rotates left or right. You can rotate it back, but there is the danger of changing your blade's projection. So take light cuts.

Lie-Nielsen Small Router Plane
The good: The blade-locking mechanism is incredibly solid and the iron never slips. The iron is mounted to a square shank, so there's no chance that the iron can rotate during heavy use. Plus, I quite like the fact that the blade-locking knob can be turned with a straight screwdriver. The knob is small, so this is a big plus.

I also like the curved fingerholds on the body. These are comfortable and feel right when you are skewing the tool into a hinge mortise. Plus, they give the tool a little sex appeal. The fit and finish on this tool is also excellent. The iron is quite durable.

The downside: The tool has an open throat. The almost 3/4"-wide open section on the sole makes the tool unsuitable for work on narrow edges, such as cleaning up the ends of haunches in frame-and-panel work. If your work consists of a lot of work on edges, this isn't the tool for you.

Bottom line: I think the perfect plane for my work would be a router plane that had a closed throat, a compact size, curved fingerholds and an iron that had a square shank. Perhaps there's a vintage tool out there that meets these criteria, but I don't plan to start scouring eBay any time soon. Having both these tools covers all my needs.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Free Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Like tools? We do! Read our latest tool coverage HERE.
• Looking for free project plans? We have hundreds. Click HERE.
• Learn a new woodworking technique today. Click HERE.
• Want more videos? See all our free videos HERE.
• Check out our selection of half-price woodworking books HERE.
• Get 8 years of Popular Woodworking on one CD. Click HERE.


Posted 1/9/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

It's perhaps the ugliest photo of my Roubo-style workbench ever taken, but the image above is a picture of its Southern yellow pine benchtop that's magnified 200x. It looks a bit like the canals of Mars filled with Marshmallow Fluff (sorry, I'm still a bit hungry after lunch).

Isn't it a fascinating and useful photo? Nah. But I have a new toy on my workbench and I had a few minutes to kill before a photo shoot this morning. The new toy is the EyeClops BioniCam, a digital microscope intended for children who like to look at bugs and (most likely) their own boogers.

The EyeClops magnifies things by 100x, 200x and 400x. And when you take a photo it drops the picture on a USB flash drive that you can then put in your computer. I've always wanted a decent digital microscope so I can view sharpened edges for defects and for fun (the threshold for "fun" is fairly low in Southwestern Ohio).

This isn't my dream microscope. But Amazon.com recently discounted the EyeClops to $20 from $80. So I bought one to get SuperSaving shipping on another order. I'm still learning to focus the thing – it's a bit touchy. But it's fun.

My edges look horrifying at 400x. But then so does everything else (freckles, notebook paper, apple skin). In the photo above, I think the white lines are actually film finish – my benchtop has an oil/varnish blend on it.

After I get a little better at using the instrument, I'll post some more photos. I took some cool photos this afternoon of what maple looks like after it has been smooth-planed.

OK, now I gotta get back to work. I have split infinitives to reunite.

— Christopher Schwarz



Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 1/7/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The stuff I write about Stanley's metallic scrub planes always gets me in trouble with the people who use the tool to dress the faces of rough lumber. You can find my stories here and here. You can find the floggings on any of the forum sites (just search under "Schwarz"+"pin-headed mouth-breather").

In any case, I think it's lovely if you use one of these planes to dress the faces of your lumber. But I really like using it for edges, a use that seems to be supported by some documents and chats I've had with an older union carpenter. The tool is a tracheid-chomping monster on edges, a fact that I was reminded of yesterday.

I was faced with making a panel out of some Eastern white pine for an upcoming story in Popular Woodworking on gluing up panels. The long edges of the boards were really waney. I was going to have to remove 1" of width on each edge to get to the good material. So I marked out my scribe lines with a panel gauge, grabbed my scrub plane (instead of a hatchet or drawknife – other good options) and went to work.

Using short, choppy strokes, I could hog off more than 1/16" in a pass. Each edge took less time than Lucinda Williams took to sing me one of her new songs off of "Little Honey." Within about 12 minutes, all four edges were done and ready for the jointer plane.

Sure, I could have used the Powermatic 66, but I don't like missing a minute of Lucinda.

— Christopher "numb as a flounder" Schwarz

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 1/2/2009 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Sometimes the best innovations are so simple it's a wonder that they aren't everywhere. This week, Mike Siemsen of Chisago City, Minn., sent me an e-mail about his new workbench that opened my head like a can opener.

Siemsen, who runs Mike Siemsen's School of Woodworking, recently completed building a very close copy of Peter Nicholson's workbench featured in the early 19th-century classic: "The Mechanic's Companion, Or, The Elements and Practice of Carpentry," which you can download for free from Google.

Siemsen developed the workbench with the input of period woodworker Dean Jansa. (Remember this marking gauge he built for Popular Woodworking? Let's all encourage Dean to write more.) The bench developed by Siemsen and Jansa looks a lot like Nicholson's – with one small upgrade that is amazingly useful.

The bench has a small gap between its two top boards. Look through the gap and you can see the transverse bearers that support the top. This gap allows you to do some really cool things with your planes and saws. By dropping a batten into the gap and onto the transverse bearers you can plane across the grain of a board (called traversing). Wedge the board against the planing stop plus a batten in the gap and you can work diagonally. You also can use the batten as a bench hook for sawing. And you can use the gap to store tools.

Is there precedence for this? Yes. George Ellis's Planing Board (which I describe here) uses wedges in the same manner. And a Nicholson-style workbench shown in Audel's "Carpenters Guide" shows a bench with a loose top. You could easily see how the gap could have been exploited….

In any case, it works. Check it out here and on his blog.

— Christopher Schwarz


Here you can see how you can use a batten in the gap to work across the grain.

Here the batten is used with the planing stop to work in a more diagonal fashion.

Here it's a bench hook for sawing.

And here the gap is used for tool storage. Next week we'll show how it makes julienne fries.



Posted 12/28/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

It’s funny what you can accomplish when you’re ignorant. No one told me I couldn’t cut joinery with a hacksaw, which has fine teeth and little set. But that’s exactly what I used to do -- until I took a class in hand joinery and learned all about backsaws.

Same thing goes for scraping. For years I used a card scraper on pine until I read somewhere that you can’t scrape softwoods.

You can scrape softwoods, such as pine, with a sharp scraper, a light touch and a slightly different angle of attack. When I scrape hardwoods, my card scraper is usually about 65° from the surface of the wood. When I scrape softwoods, I increase that angle slightly until two things happen: I get curls instead of dust and the grain stops looking fuzzy.

Other lies:
• Always work “with the grain.”
• Curved edges cannot make flat surfaces.
• Grits have no flavor.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/27/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

It’s easy to get grumpy about the way you work in the shop and resist the newfangled features that appear on tools. To be sure, some of these “innovations” are boneheaded (the bench chisels with rasp teeth on the blade spring quickly to mind).

But other ideas are great, and you just have to give them a chance.

This month, I embraced two innovations that I resisted for a decade. I actively mocked these features on tools in both public and private. I went out of my way to avoid buying them. I rolled my eyes when I saw them on tools in other woodworker’s shops. Now I see my error.

1. Lasers on miter saws. We’ve had a dozen laser-guided miter saws in our shop, and they never did anything for me. But after we installed a version with two lasers – one laser on each side of the kerf – in our miter saw’s stand did I swallow the bait. I stopped marking out all my cuts with a try square. I simply laid my tape on the work and lined the laser up with the marks on the tape.

2. Integrated lights on drill/drivers. My first router, an inherited 1970s Craftsman, had a light on it. But the openings in the base were so tiny that it was like peering into a really well-lit shadowbox, which was shooting chips at you. But somehow an impact driver ended up on my bench with an integrated light. I love it. While working inside cabinets I can now use both my eyes and my fingertips to get screws in their holes. It’s much easier and faster with a light showing the way.

Egads. What could be next? Taiwanese moulding planes? Belt sanders? Chardonnay?

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/25/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

The August 2000 issue of Popular Woodworking is one of my favorites. On the cover is a secretary that Troy Sexton built that was the result of a lot of hard work by the entire staff. We worked with Troy during almost an entire year to pull together the story about his excellent design.

So you can imagine my dismay when the magazine went out to subscribers, and my phone started ringing off the hook with angry readers on the other end of the line.

“Where,” they would ask, “is the story on wainscoting?”

It seems that as we were carefully massaging the story on the secretary we had messed up the cover. The top headline on the cover was “Wainscotting in a Weekend.” Only there was no story about wainscotting in the issue. We had removed it and then forgotten to change the cover.

Grrr.

It seems that we spend most of our days at the magazine making our own mistakes and cleaning up the mistakes of others. That is the job description that should be on my business card (if I had business cards – long story).

Some of my mistakes are mistakes of omission. For example, for the last 12 months I have been meaning to write a review of the shoulder plane kit produced by Legacy Toolworks. It’s a gorgeous kit and looks about 10 times better than the shoulder plane kit I’d built from Shepherd Tool years ago. But I overbooked myself this year and haven’t started the kit. And now Legacy has announced it is closing its doors. If I had been able to review the kit, perhaps that could have helped them.

Other mistakes are what we call in Arkansas: “Getting bit by the dumb-a**.” This is where you do something so stupid that the tale should begin with, “Hold my beer while I….” Such as when I told 200,000 readers to run the router the wrong way to cut a rabbet on a door frame. I didn’t mean to do it, I just got turned around and never caught my error.

So it should come as no surprise that toolmakers also make mistakes. Most readers probably think that the tools that come into our shop have been carefully tested and tuned by the manufacturers to make sure they are perfect. Based on how many goofed-up tools I’ve seen in 13 years, I doubt that’s the case.

And in fact, I take it as a mark of the toolmakers’ honesty that they send us one right off the warehouse floor.

Here’s a small sample of some of the stuff we’ve seen:

DeWalt: The company makes good tools, but we had a jigsaw come into the shop where the blade clamping mechanism failed. It went click, click, and then the blade dropped out like a rotten tooth. When DeWalt introduced its first hybrid table saw, the first rip fence we got was twisted. So was the second. The third replacement was fine.

Delta: When Delta introduced its C-arm drum sander, we were all excited in the shop. We set it up, plugged it in and cranked the puppy up. It spun up and then spun down forever. The motor burned out after three seconds.

Harbor Freight: It might sound too easy to pick on this discount seller. But they sell tools and people buy them. So here goes: When we tested the company’s plunge router, the collet failed. The bit slipped out and flew out. That was one of the days that I wished we had some Depends in the first aid kit.

Black & Decker: Here’s every tool marketer’s worst nightmare. Black & Decker sent us its new cordless tape measure. Now let’s ignore for a moment the possibility that you do not need an electric tape measure. So Senior Editor David Thiel takes it out of the box in front of the entire staff and demonstrates how it works. The tape extends about a foot and then dies forever.

Metabo: Cordless drills aren’t supposed to shoot flames out the back are they?

Lobo: When we tested its edge sander the sheet metal base flexed like tin foil. You would turn the machine on, and the thing would do the twist like Chubby Checker.

Powermatic: Yes, even Powermatic. An early version of its benchtop mortiser had a flaw in the piece of metal that joined the motor to the arm mechanism. The gears on the interior stripped out. So when you pulled the arm, the motor never moved.

Tools for Working Wood: The Ray Iles mortising chisels are great, but one of my students at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking snapped the tip off one when working in poplar. I heard it from across the room. It turned out that a few of the tools had been made from A2 instead of D2. It did make for an amusing day as everyone crowded around the chisel like the victim of a car accident.

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks: I had a narrow iron shoulder plane that was an early production run. The bronze grip wouldn’t stay in place when you retracted the iron. When I turned the screw, the plane disassembled itself in my hands.

Veritas: An early version of the Veritas cabinet scraper (an adaptation of the No. 80) would clog after a few passes like Crystal Gayle’s shower’s drain. The company has since fixed that problem and the tool works great.

Stanley Tools: During a test of jack planes, we had a tool that simply would not function. It was like it was haunted. If you snugged up the frog screw to where you thought it should be, you couldn’t adjust the iron. If you loosened the frog screw so you could adjust the iron, the thing would chatter and shake like a Vega going 56 mph. We never figured that one out.

Wenzloff & Sons: While teaching a sawing class at Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking, one student’s carcase saw was misbehaving. It was tearing out the shoulders of his tenons something fierce. At first I though it was user error. Turns out the saw was filed for rip when it was supposed to be crosscut.

Let me conclude by saying that mistakes slip out the door for every toolmaker (and magazine editor). We’ve never heard of any toolmaker with zero returns. The real test of a toolmaker (and editor) is how you deal with the mistakes when they occur.

We published the “Wainscotting in a Weekend” story in the following issue and have not made an error on the cover since that day. And almost all of the toolmakers above are known for cheerfully replacing any defective unit and then correcting the problem.

And that’s one of the reasons we’re all still in business.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/24/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Finishing
Bookmark and Share

Yesterday I finished up work on the dry sink that is the cover project for the Spring 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine (Issue 13). As always, the finishing part of the project was as much an adventure as designing and building it.

The project is made from Eastern white pine, so we knew that coloring it with a pigment or dye would result in blotching. My first gut feeling was to paint the thing – I've seen a lot of painted dry sinks. But paint would hide all the nice wood selection and joinery, so we opted to first try something else.

First we experimented with tea stains (yes, made from tea) and made some sample boards. Then we added some orange dye to the tea. Then we switched gears and tried adding dye to an oil/varnish blend. No dice.

So we fell back on our pumpkin pine finish from a few issues ago. It involves a stain controller, a maple stain and shellac. The test boards looked good, so on Monday I added the stain controller in the early morning. That evening I added the maple stain. Yuck.

The result looked good in places and blotchy in others. The stain controller didn't seem to work consistently over the entire piece.

So Senior Editor Glen D. Huey brought in a can of Olde Century Colors "Yankee Blue." I swallowed hard (being a cracker-loving Southerner) and applied two coats. Now I'm happy.

The experience reminded me of a column I wrote for our Autumn 2006 issue, which discussed the role of paint in furniture-making. So I thought this would be a good time to reprint it here.

— Christopher Schwarz

“Many of the things I make are not treated in any way afterwards, because
nothing that I can put on them will enhance the beauty of the natural wood.”

— James Krenov, "A Cabinetmaker’s Notebook” (Linden)


The second Welsh stick chair I ever built was made using both traditional methods and traditional materials. That meant elm for the seat, white oak for the legs and the arm bow, and ash for the spindles.

My plan was to color the chair with a brown stain that would visually tie these three species together. So after carefully preparing all my parts, making a few test boards using stains and hues that I was familiar with, I colored the chair one Saturday afternoon.

When the stain dried, the chair didn’t look like I had hoped. But I told myself to be patient; a topcoat of clear finish can change the final appearance of a finishing job. And I was right; the chair looked even worse with a topcoat.

Something about the stain color I chose, the wood I picked for the chair or my finishing technique made these three species together look like a visual jumble. The coloring was so inconsistent that my eye would jump around the chair, never sure what was important or where to look next.

So I pored over my books on chairmaking and then slept on the problem. By morning, I knew the answer: Paint the thing. Lots of early furniture was painted, especially Windsor-style chairs that used a variety of species in their construction.

But there was a problem here. A mental problem. Like most woodworkers, painting a piece of furniture was something of a last resort in my head. We woodworkers are supposed to celebrate the grain of the wood and finish it to enhance its swirls and swoops. A coat of paint on furniture is seen as evidence that something is amiss. Maybe we used inferior materials. Perhaps we chose our materials so poorly that the grain selection is ugly. Maybe our joinery is gappy. Or we are incapable of preparing a surface for a stain and topcoat. Or we simply cannot finish.

I hate stripping finish, so I decided to give the paint a try. I purchased a quart of dark Windsor green and some primer. I set to work covering up my misdeeds and pondering where I could stash this chair in my house so my woodworking friends would never see it.

After two coats, the chair looked radically different. Details that had been obscured by the grain or stain color jumped out in sharp relief. During construction, I had carved a small gutter around the perimeter of the seat that – when painted – appeared as a perfect dark line rimming the work. I had spent an hour planing and filing a nice curved chamfer on three edges of the crest rail at the top of the chair. Those chamfers now shined, no longer shying away from attention. And a chamfer on the swooping arm bow looked clearly tied to the chamfers on the crest rail.

But there was more. When I stood back a few steps I could really and truly see the chair. It was like a graphic drawing of a chair. It looked more like a shiny green animal ready to pounce than a jumble of sticks covered in brown goo. It looked like the chair I had seen in my head when I set out to build it. I simply had to cover the wood with two coats of paint to uncover its true form.

Years later now, I’ve found that painting furniture well is a skill that requires careful cultivation. Since painting that first chair, I’ve painted a full set that I’ve built and have been experimenting with different mixes of paint and varnish (to give the paint a luminescence) and different brushing techniques. Painting a chair is as challenging as any hand-applied finish I’ve ever tried.

And now I know the truth: Paint doesn’t obscure mistakes. Instead, paint can reveal the form (good, bad or average) that we sometimes try to hide with flashy joinery, showy wood and shiny finishes. The opaque pigment lays bare our skills as designers of furniture, which is perhaps one of the real reasons we avoid painting the things we build. WM

— Chrisopher Schwarz


Posted 12/23/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

There are so many fine Western sawmakers today that it's hard to believe that there were virtually none in 1996 – the year Independence Tool was founded.

New sawmakers are cropping up so quickly that it's tough for me to keep track (and heck, it's my job). I do try to stay on top of the market as best I can, and during the last couple years I've gotten to use saws from almost every maker – thanks to the handsawing classes I've taught in Michigan, Kentucky and Oregon.

I'm telling you all this because I've been working with a dovetail saw these last two weeks that has blown me away. It is, compared to its peers, the first among equals.

The dovetail saw from Andrew Lunn's Eccentric Toolworks is a super-tuned jewel of a saw. It starts easier than any Western saw I've used – much like a Japanese saw. It flies through ½" and ¾" stock with ease. It is extraordinarily balanced. It leaves a whisper of a kerf behind.

And on top of all that, the saw has handmade touches (such as carving on the tote and engraving on the brass back) that make it as nice to look at as it is to use.

The price of all this amazingness? As of Jan. 5, 2009, it's $350.

So who the heck is Andrew Lunn? And where did he come from?

Denizens of the discussion groups, such as WoodNet, have seen Lunn's work. And if you were at the Woodworking in America conference, you might have seen some of Lunn's saws in Mike Wenzloff's booth (Wenzloff graciously agreed to host a couple toolmakers in his booth).

But Lunn is not a professional toolmaker. He's a 37-year-old 911 paramedic who lives in Worthington, Ohio, and makes saws in his spare time. He describes himself as "obsessed" with saws, and that's not an overstatement.

His dovetail saws are different than other premium saws in several significant ways. The blade is thinner than any other Western saw I've used at .015" thick. Other saws use steel that is .018" or .020" thick. One criticism of this thin steel is that it will kink more easily if the saw is abused. Perhaps. But I think the saw's blade feels very steady.



The teeth are minimally set – Lunn sets them with a special hammer that he forged himself. As a result, the saw removes very little wood and produces a razor-thin kerf that looks like a kerf from a Japanese saw. This is one of the other factors that makes the saw plunge through wood.

Also different: The saw's rake. Most commercial saws have a consistent rake on every tooth. Relax the rake and the saw is easier to start but slow. Tighten it up and the saw becomes more aggressive but harder to start.

Lunn has relaxed the rake at the toe, which makes the saw easy to start. In the middle of the blade the rake is almost zero, which makes the saw aggressive once you start it. And he's relaxed the rake at the heel as well, which prevents the saw from sticking there. It really works.

A criticism of this filing is that it is going to be a challenge for the user to replicate. Perhaps, but you can always get Lunn to resharpen it.

Another interesting difference is the folded brass back. The back is narrower at the toe than at the heel, which reduces weight at the toe. Also, the saw's blade is "canted," which means it's narrower at the toe than at the heel. Both of these tweaks help give the saw its excellent balance.

And finally, the tote is thicker than those on other saws. When I first picked it up I thought the tote felt too thick (so did Senior Editor Glen D. Huey). But after working with the saw a bit, we changed our minds on that score. It's a very comfortable handle.



The handmade touches only add to the whole package. The saw uses traditional split nuts, with a hand-engraved medallion. The tote itself feels very handmade with no sharp edges for your hand and has the subtle toolmarks of good hand work. The engraving is just cool.

All in all, I'm profoundly impressed and recommend this saw without reservation. Lunn loaned it to us to try, but it's not going back. I am buying this one personally for my shop at home.

To contact Lunn about making a saw for you, visit his web site at Eccentric Toolworks.

To download a chart comparing the saws in our shop right now, click the file below.

Dovetail Saw.pdf (23.5 KB)

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/21/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

These last couple weeks I’ve gotten to break in my new Benchcrafted wagon vise while building a dry sink for the next issue of Woodworking Magazine.

The dry sink is enormous (it looked so small on paper). And every surface has passed under a handplane. The wide stock was prepped entirely by hand. The narrower stuff I processed first with a powered jointer and planer – and then handplanes.

I’ve been planing narrow and wide stock on edge, and the faces of wide panels. I’ve been planing with the grain, diagonally and across the grain with a fore plane, jointer plane and smoothing plane. I’ve been planing joinery with a plow plane and a fillister plane. And I’ve been planing mouldings with hollows and rounds and a beading plane.

As a result, I’ve been planing what seems like acres of pine. I’ve filled up the garbage can at the end of my bench twice with shavings.

So I feel confident in saying that the Benchcrafted vise has gotten a good workout with a lot of the tools you’ll find in a shop that blends both power and hand tools. And with each workholding challenge I presented to the Benchcrafted, it swatted them all down with ease.

The vise’s sliding block moves quickly along its threads, so you’re not spinning the wheel endlessly. And you can engage it with both subtlety and enormous force. The vise holds its position when you clamp a panel and want to plane across the grain but don’t want to bow the work – a delicate balancing act that would cause my old hillbilly wagon vise to slip.

And when I wanted to use the vise to really clamp something hard – such as a drawer side – it made the workpiece feel like it was physically attached to the benchtop. Totally solid. It also was robust enough to disassemble joints when used like a spreader clamp (this operation would pull my old vise apart).

So I’m sure you’re thinking: “Great, but is it worth $350?”

For me, absolutely. I spent about $250 to build my bench out of yellow pine, and so the $350 Benchcrafted vise means I still have a bench that works better than any other I’ve worked on in my life for less than half of the scratch I would pay for a high-quality commercial workbench.

Is it better than a traditional tail vise? So far, I think it is. We’ll see if the Benchcrafted sags in use like a tail vise does – only time will tell that. But what I like about the Benchcrafted vise compared to a tail vise is that I don’t have the large “no work” zone you get with a tail vise. You cannot pound or lean on a tail vise or it will quickly sag.

How does it compare to adding a quick-release vise with a big wooden chop? I think it’s a draw. I like having the full support of the Benchcrafted wagon vise, but I also really like the quick-release function of a steel vise. If you don’t have the money for a Benchcrafted vise, a quick-release vise in the end vise position of your workbench is the next best thing.

Some will balk at the price. Fine. This vise isn’t for you. Me? I’m sick of the low-quality vise hardware that has passed through our shop during the last decade. It used to be easy to buy fantastic vises from England and America. But now you are rolling the dice when buying new vises. I’ve seen decent new vises from the emerging economies, but I’ve also seen some stuff that went right back into the box and back to the seller. Junk.

There are no regrets with the Benchcrafted. It is impeccably made, overbuilt like something from the USSR’s space program and flawless in use.

And that’s good enough for me.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/19/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

On Halloween night in 1993 I went to the lumberyard in search of wood to build a sitting bench for our kitchen in Lexington, Ky. Like any good woodworker, I sorted through the entire pile of 1 x 12s to find boards that were straight, flat and looked good.

I was frustrated that night because I couldn't find wood that looked right. It was all too boring, clear and knot-free. Yes, that sentence is correct. There is something about knots that I've always liked.

Stare at them long enough and you'll realize (without the assistance of illegal substances) they look like a tree trapped inside a tree. They are the important intersection between branch and bole. And knots point out that wood is not just a homogenous and bland substance.

Of course, they can be quite ugly and distracting as well.

So I struggle with my knot fetish. One of my favorite places to put them is in drawer bottoms and in cabinet backs. For the most part, they are then hidden by the underwear, socks and books held by the project. But every once is a while, you'll pull out just the right book and the knot will be staring at you, like an unlidded eye.

This dry sink project features a few well-placed knots. Sure, there are some in the back, but there are also two small ones in the left side of the cabinet. One looks like a falling comet to me.

The top has two massive knots that were a real challenge to plane without tearing things out. And though they're quite visible now, I know that whatever is placed on the top of this dry sink will keep them obscured until just the right moment.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 12/18/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I really need to start keeping a list of all the things I use my sawbenches for. Sure, I saw stuff on them. And I stand on them while go-go dancing in the shop to amuse visitors. Those things are obvious. What's not so obvious is how often they get me out of weird jams with my handplanes.

On Monday as I was planing down the face frame of this dry sink, the sawbench was the obvious choice to lend a hand. I wedged it between my bench and the dry sink, and voila. The job was done.

I also plane down table aprons in the same fashion with a sawbench (this particular sawbench was made by craftsman John Wilson; all mine seem to end up in the shops of friends). Frequently, I'll assemble cabinets or glue up panels on them as well.

If you've come up with other good uses for the shop appliance, post them here. Your suggestion might convince another woodworker that they should build a pair.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 12/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

When I first got serious about woodworking after college, I remember reading a dire warning in a woodworking book about working with pine:

“If you work with pine, be sure to purchase your material, mill it, cut it and assemble the entire project all in a single day. If you let pine sit overnight, it will warp and be unusable.”

At the time, the warning flummoxed me. Sure, the pine from our home center tended to cup a bit if left to its own devices. But the pine I'd salvaged from my home’s 100-year-old floor was the most righteous and stable stuff I’d ever laid hands on.

Since those early days, I have had lots of experience with pine. Thousands of board feet of all sorts of species have passed under my hands: yellow pine, sugar pine, some wacky junk from Sweden, and (this week) Eastern white pine.

All of the species have their charms. The yellow pine is tough like maple but is difficult to saw. The sugar pine is lightweight and stable but splintery. The Swedish stuff reminds me of some exchange students at my high school. And the Eastern white pine cuts and planes beautifully.

Here’s the truth: What I have found is that pine is stable when it’s properly dried and at equilibrium with its environment. Pine’s bad rap comes from the fact that it’s usually sold a little wet at the lumberyard. As it dries, it moves. Also, I've found that construction-grade pine is prone to suffer from drying defects, such as case-hardening, which also besmirches its name.

The hard data from the U.S. Forestry Service backs all this up. The government’s “dimensional change coefficient” figures for hardwoods and softwoods predict how much a species will move when the humidity changes.

Most of the pines are more stable than typical domestic hardwoods. Eastern white pine and sugar pine, for example, move less in service than all the typical domestic hardwoods: maple, cherry, oak, walnut, alder, beech, birch, hickory and ash. And quartersawn Eastern white pine barely moves at all, according to our government. It’s like the MDF of the softwood world. A theoretical 12"-wide quartersawn board would move about .009" when its moisture content changed by one percentage point. That ain’t much.

The pine in our shop this week is a joy. When we brought it in, the moisture meter readings indicated it was actually a little drier than the rest of the wood in our shop. And so I knew what to do: Cut the stuff to length and let it soak up a bit of moisture. It moved a bit. And now it’s tamed.

— Christopher Schwarz


When pine goes bad. Here's a piece of yellow pine that was brought in right from the lumberyard and planed to 3/4" thick. Overnight, it cupped like this. Of course, this could be a novel way to make a coopered door....




Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 12/15/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Cabinetry is made of chunks of wood that are fairly standard in size. Most of your parts are going to be shorter than 48" long. It’s rare that individual planks will be wider than 12", or that your casework is going to be much deeper than 24" or so.

And so most of our tools, workbenches and shops are set up to deal with parts and assemblies that fall into those ranges. What’s really amazing to me, however, is how things can fall apart when you step just a little outside those standard sizes.

This week I’m building a reproduction of an 18th-century dry sink that is based on a Connecticut piece. I drew up the plans after studying a lot of photos of the piece and its actual measurements. In my zeal to make my reproduction look spot-on, I glossed over some details that should have raised red flags as I was sketching.

1. Danger, Wide Load: The carcase of this dry sink is 50" wide. That gave our table saw’s sliding table some fits, but I was able to work around its limitations. Where things got hairy was when I assembled the carcase. I needed some 50" clamps to secure the sides to the bottom. But all our clamps only go to a shade more than 48". Our shop's band clamps have fallen into the same black hole as a set of long-missing bed bolts. So I drove the bottom into the dados in the side pieces and used cut nails to hold everything in place while the glue dried. Good thing the original used cut nails as well.

2. In Too Deep: The carcase is almost 27" deep, which means the side panels were too wide for my 24"-wide workbench. So I had to work in stages: I planed as much as I could. Then I shifted the panel and planed the remainder. It was slow, but it worked.

3. Wood Too Wide:
The dry sink's door requires panels that are 14" wide. Even our massive machinery can only face-joint a 12"-wide piece. So those boards for the doors had to be processed with handplanes. It wasn’t a show-stopper, but it sure slowed me down.

4. Two Inches Too Long: Because the carcase is 50" wide, many of the boards for the top and bottom were 49" to 50" long. Because the rough stock was 8' long, there was no way to get two 50"-long pieces for the top from a 96"-long piece. As a result, I had to struggle not to waste too much wood.

The good news is that I’m going to adjust the construction drawings and cutting lists for the readers so they won’t stumble with these slightly oversized parts and assemblies. Shaving an inch or two will save a thousand headaches. The bad news is that I probably should spring for a few 52"-long clamps for the shop so this doesn’t happen again.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/12/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks has just released a DVD that is based on the theories, research and building that I did for the book "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use." The DVD – titled "The Workbench" – shows how I use (and adapt) three different workbenches to work on the faces, edges and ends of boards.

Shot during a week in Maine, this DVD demonstrates how to accomplish basic (and some advanced) workholding with a traditional European-style workbench, a David Charlesworth-style workbench and my own Holtzapffel-style workbench.

I also show how to use basic appliances, such as a bench slave, shooting board and a wide planing stop, to extend the capabilities of your existing workbench.

And if you are in the throes of designing or purchasing your workbench, this DVD points out the important design details to consider, including the size of the bench, its workholding and the structure of its top and undercarriage.

This DVD is (I hope) a distillation of my 144-page book on the topic. I think you'll find the DVD especially useful if you haven't read the book or would like to see its principles put into action on a variety of workbenches.

In addition to the 40 minutes of video, the DVD contains a glossary of workbench terms and articles you can print out on shooting boards, holdfasts and bench hooks.

As usual, all of my DVD proceeds are donated to charity. My proceeds from this $25 DVD will benefit the endowment fund of the Early American Industries Association, a very hand-tool friendly non-profit organization.

The DVD is now in stock and can be ordered directly from Lie-Nielsen.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/11/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

Our shop is thick with the sweet odor of Eastern white pine this week as I’m milling about 70 board feet of the stuff for the next issue of Woodworking Magazine. The smell (Megan Fitzpatrick would say “redolence”) is worlds better than the funky fish and burned popcorn smell that wafts daily from our cafeteria.

But with that great smell comes great mystery.

In the first batch of Eastern white pine we brought into the shop, the sapwood was streaked throughout almost the entire load. The streaks are gray-blue and end abruptly at the pine's darker heartwood.

The streaks brought on a little debate in the shop. Some of us think the streaks are mineral deposits that the trees got into. I suspect a fungus among us. After doing some poking around the U.S. Forest Service web site, I suspect we have some trees that were attacked by fungus. The Forest Service says the fungus attack could have come after a beetle infestation. Check it out here.

The staining doesn't appear to have compromised the strength of the wood, so I'm going to use the stained pieces on the inside of the 18th-century dry sink I'm building this week.

But the stain marks did make more work for Senior Editor Glen D. Huey. He's the one who scored the pine for us. To get us some clear wood for the exterior of the piece, he ended up having to go back to his (super secret) source and climb over another seven stacks of wood to find what we needed. As a bonus, he found a couple boards that were 16" wide in the rough. He's a good guy to have around.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/10/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Anyone who works with me in the shop knows that I'm a bit of a bully when it comes to the stereo. I'll get to the office early, plug my iPod into the crap-tacular shop stereo (which hasn't actually played in stereo since Kool & the Gang were on the charts) and hit "shuffle."

But since early October, the iPod I take to work has been on the fritz. The 1/8" jack has been acting up, and the music has been cutting in and out. So Bob Lang has been able to play his 1970s supergroup CDs in the shop, and Glen Huey has been able to sneak in some Dean Martin.

Today I resolved to do something about it. I took the iPod to our Apple Store and asked for help at the Genius Bar. The guy took my iPod to the back room for about 15 minutes. When he returned he handed the iPod back to me.

"All better," he said.

And the problem was?

"There was some tape jammed in there," the genius said. "I pulled it out and now it's working fine."

I narrowed my eyes and considered my Scotch-tape-loving crafty children as likely suspects. So I asked:

"What color was the tape? Clear?"

"No," he replied. "Blue."

Then I knew it was my own dang fault. I use blue tape for everything in the shop, and bits are constantly stuck to my shop apron. Somehow I managed to jam some of my beloved blue stuff in the 1/8" jack.

The good news here is, however, that I am catching up on my Centro-Matic, Built to Spill and Wilco listening. As is the rest of the office.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/5/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When I first built my Roubo-style workbench, I wanted to see if I could work without an end vise. So for the first year or so I used my planing stop, holdfasts, battens and geometry to steady my work as I planed it.

But I got tired of the whack-whack, shuffle-shuffle necessary whenever I needed to plane across the grain of panels (called traversing) or plane diagonally on any size board.

So I started futzing around with wagon vises, which I first spotted in an early 20th-century French tool catalog. My first attempt was rather "agricultural" – let's call it the "Early Cletus Period." I built one using a veneer press screw, some wooden runners, chewing gum and a fancy French-style escutcheon plate.

I soon left the Cletacious period and designed an evolved wagon vise that used a bigger acme vise screw, which is on the English-style workbench in my book on workbenches.

But today I am walking fully upright, leaving my sloping forehead ways behind me. My Roubo workbench is now outfitted with the ultimate wagon vise by Benchcrafted.

In the interest of full disclosure, I paid full price for this vise and spent my own money – Le Roubo is my workbench. (The prospect of my company moving all my stuff out of the office is probably one of the reasons I've never been downsized. It would take weeks.)

The Benchcrafted is a nice piece of work. After installing dozens of poorly made vises (and a few good ones), I was impressed to see how well cast and machined every component was as I took it out of its box.

The vise's installation instructions are thorough, well-illustrated and to-the-point. Benchcrafted also includes full-size templates that make laying out all your cuts and holes a snap.

For me, installing the Benchcrafted was a retrofit. So it was a little more involved than if you were installing this vise on a new bench under construction. The vise requires a cavernous cavity on the underside of your benchtop to house all its finely machined guts. So I spent some serious time hogging out waste with a router and a mortise chisel.



Then you need a beefy end cap on your bench to hold the vise screw. My cap is about 3" thick and is lag-bolted to the benchtop. A new bench could easily incorporate dovetails into the design or some sort of breadboard construction.

With the cavity and end cap complete, the rest of the job was precision boring and fitting. Use a drill press to install the vise screw. The templates and the hardware are made to tolerances that are too tight to hit with a brace and bit.

And use a router to install the runners. The runners guide the sliding dog. If the runners are out of line, the vise will bind up. Precision is paramount.

Then it's just a matter of fitting the sliding wooden dog and lining the interior faces of the jaws with leather (I used some scraps I found at Michael's craft store and yellow glue).

How does it work? Like a dream. The dog moves quickly and smoothly back and forth. And the wheel on the end doesn't interfere with the soles of my planes (like on the Cletacious vise). It is, without a doubt, completely worth the $350.

And though my co-workers laugh when I say it, I think this is the last end vise for the Roubo.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 12/4/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Though the new Stanley premium handplanes won't hit stores for a month or more, the company has released these photos of the planes that are going to be used on some packaging. These photos were taken by the company's United Kingdom employees.

Up until now, we've only seen computer renderings of the planes. Though the resolution of the photos here don't really allow you to see all the detail, the tools look quite good under Photoshop's magnifying glass.

In case you've actually been woodworking (instead of reading or writing about it on the Internet), you can read all the details about the new line of planes here.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 12/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

This week my pesky highly rewarding day job has been interfering with the installation of my new Benchcrafted wagon vise. Our February 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking is riddled with typos (or it is written in Pig Latin). So Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick and I have been cleaning up our poor verbiage this week while the real work has sat dormant in the shop.

Here’s a quick update: On Monday I did nothing in the shop. On Tuesday I got my Ashley Iles 1/2" mortising chisel off the rack and hacked out the rest of the cavity on the underside. This was the biggest “mortise” I’ve ever chopped: 3" deep, 4" wide and 4" long. Then I used a jigsaw to remove the rest of the waste topside, which lengthened the slot for the vise’s sliding dog block.

Finally, I took my chisel plane (Yea! Another use for the chisel plane!) and trued up the slot. The chisel plane worked brilliantly. I pressed its sole against the existing slot and it trimmed the newly cut areas flush.

Today I worked on the bench’s new end cap. This was boring. A lot of boring. About 12 holes that all had to be spot-on to accommodate the Benchcrafted vise, plus the four enormous lag bolts that attach the end cap. Luckily, it was a snap.

Right as I was about to leave work today, I installed the vise screw and bolted it to the end cap. Then I turned the bench over to start the installation of the last metal bits. I couldn’t help it. I gave the wagon wheel a spin. Whizzzz. The vise moved like a water moccasin through the bog.

I belted out an uncharacteristic “Yee-haw” and headed home.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 12/2/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The new line of premium Stanley planes should be available in January or February 2009, according to Stanley officials. The planes were originally planned for a November 2008 release, but a company official said they needed to fine-tune the finished appearance of the tools – plus Stanley ran into a couple mechanical snags.

The premium line of planes – two block planes, a smoothing plane, shoulder plane and low-angle jack – are aimed to compete with premium planemakers such as Veritas, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and Clifton. You can read a detailed write-up of the specifications of the new Stanley tools in this earlier article.

Stanley's premium chisels are still being fine-tuned, and no release date has been set, according to the official.

Meanwhile, Stanley officials are working on the packaging and released the updated renderings shown here. You can see how these new planes incorporate the famous Stanley "Sweetheart" logo into the tools. As soon as we have photos of the tools, we'll post those as well.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 11/29/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

This weekend I'm installing the Benchcrafted.com wagon vise hardware on my Roubo-style workbench. But before I could pull my old prototype wagon vise hardware off the bench, I had one more task for it to perform: Making the new end cap for the new wagon vise.

The new end cap on my benchtop has to be beefier than my original end cap, so I had to glue up some 8/4 maple into a slab about 3" thick. I planed it all flat using my old wagon vise, glued up the slab and then decommissioned the vise.

The new Benchcrafted wagon vise requires you to cut a curved cavity on the underside of the bench to accommodate the vise's guts. I hogged out most of the waste with a plunge router and a long straight bit. Then I cut off some of the excess waste with my tenon saw and shaped the cavity's curve with an outcannel gouge used bevel-down.

Of course, the new vise's guide rails are going to have to go right where I have a big void in one board thanks to a waney edge. I'm going to have to cut out the wane and patch it with some solid yellow pine for two reasons: One, it will make for a neater job all-in-all. And two, after seeing dozens of people climb underneath my bench at the Woodworking in America conference, I now know that there is no such thing as a secondary surface on this bench.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 11/26/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Barring some tryptophan- or ale-induced trypanosomiasis, I'm going to start modifying my Roubo workbench this weekend to add some new vise hardware.

I'm replacing the metal leg-vise screw with a beautiful wooden-vise screw from Joe Comunale at BigWoodVise.com. And I'm replacing my hillbilly-style wagon vise with the stunningly machined wagon vise hardware from Jameel Abraham at Benchcrafted.com.

Both of these gentlemen are putting their hardware on sale temporarily. So if you're on the fence, get off. The Benchcrafted.com sale is for one day only: Friday, Nov. 28, 2008. The terms of the sale will be announced that day. So check the site that day for details.

I paid full retail for the Benchcrafted hardware, and I'd do it again. The stuff is beautiful. Even my co-workers (who had no idea what it was for) oohed and ahhed when I pulled it out of the box like some prize-winning poultry.

The sale at BigWoodVise.com runs until Dec. 31, 2008 (so you can conceal these charges on two credit card statements).

The vise screw for the Roubo leg vise is on sale for $130 (and that price includes shipping). The regular price is $165. That's a good deal.

— Christopher Schwarz



Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/26/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

Truth is, I barely remember our Woodworking in America conference in Berea, Ky. The whole thing is a blur. And that has nothing – nothing – to do with all the beverages that people thoughtfully brought to me (one bottle of whisky, two cases of Canadian beer and very special bottle of Belgian ale – thanks Blaine).

All of us were working hard to keep the conference running smoothly that we had little time to sit down and listen to all the fantastic instructors we'd assembled there. Thank goodness for all the bloggers who brought their video cameras. I've been watching every filmed seminar (except mine, ugh) during the evenings.

If you want a list of links to people who are blogging about their experience in Berea, jump on over to our special page for that event. We're updating it regularly.

Today I actually got a chance to review the 500 or so photos we took during the conference. Associate editor Drew DePenning has whittled them down (how many photos do you really need to see of Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick with a drink in her hand?) and assembled them into a slideshow on Flickr. Jump here to take a look.

It's an interesting tour of the events of that long weekend, and it made me wish I had been an attendee instead of a staff member. Oh well; maybe next year. At least I have my St. Bernardus as a souvenir.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/26/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The unveiling of two new Veritas block planes this week has thrilled some customers with their sleek design, and confused others. Is Veritas – a company historically focused on function more than form – changing its course with these new planes?

"It's not a direction change at all," says Robin Lee, the president of Lee Valley Tools and Veritas (the company's tool-making arm). "We have four planes coming out soon that are all under 100 bucks."

Instead, the new more-expensive planes are a way to provide a full range of choices for the customer, from Lee Valley's less-expensive Utilitas line of planes in a maroon finish, to the standard line of black planes that the company has been building since 1999, and to this new line of shinier planes that are designed for the customer who demands better materials, more features and a more refined design aesthetic.

"Some people want something that looks better," Lee says. "It's definitely a different aesthetic. But we have never meant for this to be a high-volume product. If it is a high-volume product, we'll go broke."

So why did Veritas produce it?

Check the jump for the full story.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 11/24/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

If you are among those who are put off by the modern look of the new Veritas dovetail saw, take a look at the photo above. Using the power of Photoshop, Art Director Linda Watts made the bubinga handle look like ebony.

I think that perhaps some of the aesthetic objection to the tool comes from the transition from handle to spine. It is in an unexpected place. Replacing the handle with ebony (or a black-dyed equivalent) makes the saw look more traditional to my eye.

And the good news is that this would be an easy thing to do: Veritas supplies instructions on making a replacement handle with the saw.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/24/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

This weekend I spent some time working with the new Veritas dovetail saw, which I first picked up at our Woodworking in America conference. The saw has a radical love-it-or-leave-it look that is whipping up the proletariat on the messageboards. No matter how it looks, wouldn't you like to know how it cuts? I thought so. Check out this short review that I've just published on our web site.

— Christopher Schwarz, who is now going to write about planes for a while.

Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/20/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Several readers have asked what the differences are among the Kenyon saw that showed up at Woodworking in America, the Gramercy dovetail saw and the Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw. In what I promise is my last post about saws this week, here are some observations.

1. Weight. The Kenyon saw (the bottom saw in the photo) weighs 7.8 ounces. The Gramercy (the top saw in the photo) weighs 6.2 oz. The Lie-Nielsen comes in at 11 oz. Can you feel the difference? You bet. Does it matter? That's your call. I can cut good joints with a lightweight saw and a heavy one. And so can you.

2. Handle. This difference is important to me. All three saw handles are about the same thickness (Gramercy: .88". Kenyon: .86". Lie-Nielsen: .89"). But they definitely feel different. To my hand, the Gramercy feels the smallest and has the most open space. It is .9" at its narrowest point on the handle. The Kenyon saw fits my hand extraordinarily well, like a driving glove. It is 1.13" at its narrowest point. The Lie-Nielsen is between the two. It's not as open as the Gramercy, but it is a tad more open than the Kenyon. It is 1.23" at its narrowest point.

3. The brass back. The Gramercy's is the smallest at ½" wide. The Kenyon is a bit wider at 5/8". The Lie-Nielsen is widest at ¾". The back adds weight, so these statistics should come as no surprise.

4. Blade thickness. The Gramercy is .018". The Kenyon is .017". The Lie-Nielsen is .02". These are all workable thicknesses for a dovetail saw.

5. Point per inch. The Gramercy is 18 ppi. The Kenyon is 20 or 21 ppi (the teeth are fairly boogered up). The stock Lie-Nielsen is 15 ppi. In my book, that means the Gramercy and Kenyon saws are tuned for thinner stock, such as drawers. The Lie-Nielsen is tuned more for carcase work. But you can use either kind of saw for either operation.

What does all this mean? The Kenyon saw is a little different than these two other commercial saws. And so when Mike Wenzloff starts making them, it will be another good choice for your short list.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/19/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Good news for those of you who went wild with lust over liked the early Kenyon dovetail saw featured earlier this week. Saw maker Mike Wenzloff says he will manufacture very close copies of this valuable and rare saw for sale during the next few weeks.

The saw surfaced at our Woodworking in America conference in Berea, Ky., when an attendee brought it in and asked Wenzloff if he could sharpen it or replace the blade. People went nuts.

Tool historians in the crowd estimated the saw, which the attendee purchased for $35, was circa 1770. Saws from the 18th century are rare. And dovetail saws from this period are even less common. So Wenzloff took a bunch of measurements off the saw and is about to start making the tool at the same time he makes a batch of sash and tenons saws from the same era.

The dovetail saw will be available directly from Wenzloff & Sons for $140. You can order one by e-mailing Wenzloff directly.

Wenzloff says he's going to make his saw as close as possible to the original. I measured the thickness of the sawplate of the original at .017" thick; Wenzloff's will be .018" thick. The brass back will be essentially the same thickness. Wenzloff said he's going to alter the usable depth at the toe a bit because the blade in the original had shifted a bit. The saw will be 20 ppi, which is just about the pitch of the original (which was hard to measure).

The saw is even going to be stamped like the original with "Kenyon," "Spring" and London" stamped into the spine. On the original saw, the word "Kenyon" is upside down.

"(I) wonder how many I will produce with an upside down portion," Wenzloff wrote in an e-mail.

I hope he'll stamp all of them wrong. It seems the right thing to do.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/18/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

During the Woodworking in America conference, I moderated a discussion on saws between toolmakers Mike Wenzloff, from Wenzloff & Sons, and Joel Moskowitz, from Tools for Working Wood.

Both men are knowledgeable and have firm opinions about the topic of saws. The discussion was spirited and at some points contentious, though no blood was drawn. It took a long time for the three of us to navigate the technical details of the shape of sawteeth, and so we didn't get to spend much time discussing what saws you need to build furniture. Several attendees approached me after the session for guidance, and so I decided to share it with everyone here on the blog.

Earlier this year I wrote an entry that explains my personal set of saws (check it out here) and their configurations. This is a good place to start.

Number of Teeth
In general, when I choose a saw I try to match the number of teeth on the saw (called the pitch) to the thickness of my work. With backless saws, such as handsaws and rip saws, I aim to keep six or seven teeth buried in the wood at all times. With backsaws (such as dovetail and carcase saws) I aim to keep 10 teeth buried in the wood at all times.

Here's an example of how this works. If I have a 3/4"-thick carcase to dovetail, I'm going to pick a 15-points-per-inch (ppi) saw. But if I am dovetailing a 1/2"-thick drawer side, I'm going to reach for something finer, such as an 18-point or 20-point saw.

Either saw will work for carcasses or drawers, it's more a matter of what will work better. You don't have to own two dovetail saws. Just pick the one that suits the style of work you do. (Note that these rules don't apply to Japanese saws because they have deeper gullets that don't fill with sawdust.)

And note that there are practical limits. Few tenon saws come coarser than 10 ppi, but sometimes you have to saw a 2"-wide tenon cheek. A 5-point tenon saw would be a bear to start. So be flexible.

Kinds of Saws and What Order to Buy Them In
If you build typical furniture – cabinets, chairs, tables and chests – the following list of saws is meaningful. If you build smaller stuff (jewelry boxes) or bigger stuff (huge armoires), you are going to have to adjust. But I think this is a good list.



Carcase Saw
Typical blade length: 10" to 14"
Points: 12 to 14 ppi
Type of filing: Crosscut
I think this is a great saw to purchase first. It is easy to start and control, and it is useful for all sorts of crosscuts with a bench hook. Practicing with this saw will prepare you for the more challenging backsaws. What length should you choose? As with all saws, I think longer saws make straighter cuts, but they can be harder for beginners to control. My favorite is 14" long. I'm not worked up about the ppi. I see little difference between 12 ppi and 14 ppi.



Dovetail Saw
Length: 6" to 10"
Points: 14 ppi to 21 ppi
Type of filing: Rip
No matter what I write you'll buy a dovetail saw as soon as possible. We all want to cut dovetails. So go ahead. The smaller dovetail saws generally have finer teeth so the length isn't as issue as much as the ppi. Choose a ppi that matches what you like to do. Do you build lots of drawers? Get a finer saw (18 to 20 ppi). Like blanket chests? Get something in the 15 ppi neighborhood. What about the "progressive-pitch" saws, where the teeth are finer at the toe and coarser at the heel? I like them, but it took me a bit of time to acquire a taste for them. If you can try one before you buy it, that's ideal.



Tenon Saw
Length: 16" to 20"
Points: 10 ppi to 11 ppi
Type of filing: Rip
I'm using the specifications for an old-style tenon saw. Usually they don't come this big anymore, except for one made by Wenzloff & Sons. I like a big tenon saw (19"), but I seem to like bigger saws in general. When I teach sawing, my students are split: Half like the bigger saw for cutting tenon cheeks; the other half like a smaller sash saw instead.



Sash Saw (aka a Modern Tenon Saw)
Length: 14" to 16"
Points: 10 ppi is typical
Type of filing: Rip or Crosscut is available
The name "sash saw" has disappeared from most catalogs, but the form lives on as a "tenon saw" or a "crosscut tenon saw." I like a rip-filed tenon/sash saw because cutting the cheeks is a rip operation. Some people choose a crosscut sash saw in place of a crosscut carcase saw because they like big saws or have larger-scale work to do. As you can see, this is where it gets complex. You don't need both a rip tenon saw and a rip sash saw (though you are free to get both). Choose one that suits you. I like a 14" sash saw no matter what the filing. Go figure.



Handsaw
Length: 22" to 26"
Points: 5 ppi to 12 ppi
Type of filing: Crosscut
These backless saws are used to break down rough stock before you process it and to cut larger components to size before you shoot them to their final lengths. I like a 7 ppi saw (they're as common as dirt). Choose a shorter saw if it matches your stature or if you work on top of a workbench. Choose a longer saw if you are taller (I like 26") or if you work on a sawbench (an 18"-high platform designed for sawing). I think these saws are great because they give you lots of sawing practice, which pays off big when you cut dovetails. Usually the saws shorter than 26" are called panel saws.



Ripsaw
Length: 22" to 26"
Points: 3-1/2" ppi to 5 ppi
Type of filing: Rip
I don't use a ripsaw all that much (see the dust on the sawplate?). Honestly, I prefer a powered band saw. Long rip cuts are a lot like work. I'd get a ripsaw only if you are deep into the purity of hand work or you have kids sleeping upstairs.

I hope this has helped some of you at the conference. If you didn't like the session, I apologize. We'll do better next time.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 11/18/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

As the Woodworking in America conference wound down on Sunday, I dashed out the door with Louis Bois to fetch a six pack of beer he had chilling in his rental car. As my hand touched the exit I heard a voice call my name.

I waved back to the guy. The reply was not what I expected.

“I have something that you have to see.”

I stopped for a second and then plunged into the cold with Louis, who draws the technical illustrations for Woodworking Magazine. Louis had brought me a box of lager from Canada, and after he put the beer in my hands I returned to the conference to investigate.

The guy was standing at the front desk, empty-handed.

“It’s on the copier,” he said. “Just a minute.”

What came off the copier left me speechless: An early English dovetail saw that looks much like the 18th-century dovetail saw from the famous tool chest of Benjamin Seaton.

The saw had a brass back stamped both “Kenyon Spring” and “London” – just like the Seaton saw. A close inspection revealed some differences between this saw and the one featured in “The Tool Chest of Benjamin Seaton.” The Seaton saw is listed as 9” long. This saw has a blade that is 8-3/16” long. The brass back is 7-3/4” long.

The blade is 1” wide under the toe and 1-3/8” wide where the tote begins. The saw is filed at 21 points per inch (the Seaton saw is listed as 19 points). The teeth are filed for ripping. I measured the sawplate at several places and almost every spot was at .017" thick -- very similar to the Seaton saw. That's thinner than modern dovetail saws

The handle is a little different than the Seaton saw. On the section of the tote that overlaps the blade, the wood comes to a point on the Seaton saw. On this saw that area is more rounded.

But all in all, the saws are strikingly familiar.

However, what’s more striking is the story of how the saw arrived at the conference. Its owner is an auctioneer who likes to collect vintage tools. One day he and his wife were in an antique store just browsing around when he spied this Kenyon saw.

He liked the look of it, but he didn’t like the price. The blade was warped a little at the toothline. He figured that if he could get the saw for a little less he could find someone like saw sharpening savant Tom Law to replace the rusty blade with a new one so he could use it.

He hemmed and hawed but his wife finally encouraged him to take it up to the counter to negotiate.

“I tried and tried,” he said. “But they just wouldn’t come off their price of $35.”

He bought the saw anyway and put it aside. He had no idea the saw was anything special until he brought it to the Woodworking in America conference in Berea, Ky. When he took the saw out to show it to someone, the attendees went nuts. People began photographing the thing, taking measurements, and generally just gaping at it in awe.

Sawmaker Mike Wenzloff vowed to make a copy. So they stuck the thing on a photocopier to make images of the saw’s shape. And that’s when I walked in.

After staring at the saw for a while I looked up at the auctioneer and just grinned. And that’s when he pulled out a tool that was even more rare from one of his old gym socks.

We’ll save that story for another day.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. You can download a full-size scan of the saw in pdf format by clicking on the link below.

Kenyon_DT.pdf (3.8 MB)
Posted 11/12/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

The handplaning jigs are packed and ready to load on the truck Thursday morning.

Only one more restless night in bed, and I'll be headed down to our Woodworking in America conference in Berea, Ky. The entire staff of the magazine is looking forward to the show, but we also know that we're in for a wild ride.

We've never put on a conference before, and we know expectations are high. And despite all the preparation we've done since March, we know we've made a few mistakes along the way. Thank you for all your patience.

For me, the most exciting thing about the conference is getting to meet all of the speakers and the attendees and to openly discuss a lot of thorny questions about hand work. I'm the moderator for several sessions with toolmakers, and so I've been busy scribbling questions for them. Here are just a few of them. I hope you are bringing some questions of your own.

1. Many bevel-up planes have a sliding mouth shoe to close the mouth. Why is this feature not typical on bevel-down tools?

2. Does the lack of a chipbreaker on a bevel-up plane ever hurt its performance?

3. We hear from Lee Valley customers that they want Veritas to make Bed Rock-style planes or infill planes or chisels. Are these products in the works, or what are the reasons that the Veritas line has focused more on original and new tool designs?

4. Some toolmakers use cryogenically treated irons, some don't. Does it really offer advantages or is it more marketing?

5. What you think about Stanley re-entering the marketplace for premium planes. Do you think this will bring new customers into the market? Or will it drive out some existing makers?

6. If you were designing a handplane for function alone, do you see advantages to the hollowed-out sole of a Japanese plane? Why hasn't this Japanese feature caught on with Western woodworkers (unlike Japanese chisels).

7. How flat should the frog of a handplane be? How can this be measured?

8. Does the iron have to contact the entire frog or only at the mouth?

9. How critical is it that the frog is square in the mouth of the tool? How can this be measured?

10. With bevel-up planes, how can bedding errors be detected at home?

11. Planes have gotten heavier overall in modern times. What does added weight do to a plane? What are the advantages and disadvantages of mass?

12. What is the best Rockwell hardness for a plane iron? Marketing copy seems to play up very hard irons. Aren't they more brittle?

13. Exotic steels: Have they become widespread because they are better for the user or have they become widespread because there is less manufacturing waste?

14. What do you think about diamond stones? Are they appropriate for woodworking tools? What lubricants do you recommend? Are they durable enough? Do they produce a different kind of edge – it sure looks different to my eye. Are perforated or smooth stones better? Is there much of a difference between monocrystalline and polycrystalline stones?

15. What is a "good saw?" That is, how do you define a perfect saw for an operation? Is it speed? Quality of cut? Ease of starting? Durability of teeth? How easy the saw is to use?

We hope to post a couple blog entries during the conference, but I can't make any promises. Be sure to check back next week when we'll have photos, perhaps some video and some information about our plans for next year.

— Christopher Schwarz

I swore I'd never move the Roubo workbench again. Oh well. I gotta stop swearing so much.


Posted 11/7/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Shaping
Bookmark and Share

Find your credit card. You know the one. It's one your spouse always hides when you get caught reading my blog.

Auriou, the venerable French toolmaker that closed it doors last year after a labor dispute, re-opened for business on Friday. Thanks to new owners and the same plant manager, the new Forge de St Juery is making and selling many of the most popular and useful woodworking rasps on its web site.

The company has more than 400 rasps in stock right now, is currently taking orders and will begin shipping on Nov. 20. The company is much smaller than it was before it shuttered its doors (there is only one stitcher at the present time), so production will be on a small scale until more stitchers can be trained. That is a lengthy process.

The plant is still under the direction of Michel Auriou, a passionate and knowledgeable toolmaker, and so I have every confidence that the new tools will be as good as the old. And what great tools they are. I own four Auriou rasps (two at work; two at home), and I cannot imagine working without them. Actually, I can't remember what it was like to work without them. My old Nicholson rasps seem sorry, coarse and slow.

Of course, the logical question is which rasps you should buy. If you build typical casework and shelves, I think it's ideal to have two rasps:

A cabinet rasp (9", 10" or 12" are all good lengths) with a grain of nine or 10.

A modeller's rasp. I really like the 6" in a 15 grain. It leaves a very nice finish.

I'm also very interested in trying the ALBI rasp listed on the site.

The other good news here is that the prices are fairly in line with what the Auriou rasps sold for when the company closed last year. A 9" cabinet rasp sells for about $107 – that's much less than these suckers were going for on eBay. The shipping is expensive, however. A box containing up to five rasps is going to cost about $30.

However, all this talk about money is immaterial in my book. These are great rasps – the last ones you are ever likely to buy if you are a home woodworker.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/6/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

My puny 8'-long English workbench is starting to feel like an apartment-sized dinette set. Why? Check out this 12'-long version of that same bench design that boatbuilder Bob Easton constructed using Douglas fir.

Easton's design is interesting because he incorporated a third leg into the middle section of the bench because he was concerned that the whole thing might flex under heavy planing. He built the third leg just a little short to ensure that the whole thing wouldn't become a teeter-totter.

After using the bench, Bob reports that the third leg probably isn't necessary. The bench doesn't seem to flex at all in the middle. However, it looks cool and is good insurance in case Bob ever decided to rebuild a V-8 engine on there.

The other interesting alteration from the original plan published in my "Workbenches" book is that Bob used a traditional face vise in the end vise position. I built a wagon vise there on my version of the bench. I'm Chris Schwarz and I approve of this alteration.

Using a vise like this in the end-vise position saves you lots of construction time. The wagon vise took as long for me to build as the rest of the English workbench (no lie).

Bob has been blogging about his bench and you can follow his progress using this link. Or you can skip to the final and glorious result here.

— Christopher Schwarz



Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 11/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

For the last few weeks I've been joking around that our woodshop has turned into a sweatshop. As of this morning, I don't think that joke is funny any more.

For the last few weeks the staff, lead by Senior Editor Robert W. Lang, has been building all the appliances and jigs that the instructors need for the hands-on clinics at our Woodworking in America conference next week. Oh, and we've also been milling the lumber that the attendees will be sawing, chopping, paring and planing.

There are bench hooks, planing boards, saw-filing vises and myriad other jiggery piled up everywhere in the shop. The jigs were built using poplar we had in the wood rack, ash left over from Lang's "21st Century Workbench" and even some cherry buried in the bottom of the rack that I'd bought to build my wall-hung tool chest.

I'm glad to see that cherry go, actually. As part of the deal I struck with the seller years ago, I bought 90 board feet of low-quality stuff to buy a load of amazingly wide, clear and beautiful black cherry.

We've enlisted everyone, from Publisher Steve Shanesy on down to Drew DePenning, our associate editor for the web, to help screw, nail and glue parts together. Thanks to all the help, I'm sure we're going to make our deadline. That is, as soon as I get my hinder away from the computer and screw together about 38 saw-filing vises.

Or maybe we're not done yet. This morning 250 board feet of poplar arrived at our loading dock. Maybe there are more jigs to build.

— Christopher Schwarz



Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 10/30/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

I've been doing this job for 12 years now; and that's the longest commitment I've given anything, except for maybe shaving, remaining married and pork barbecue. So clearly I like my job, or I'm un-hirable in any other profession.

Most days are great: I read about woodworking, write about woodworking and do woodworking. But there are a few days that make me grind my teeth in frustration. This is one of those days.

I'm editing a piece by bodger and blacksmith Don Weber for the February 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking. Don has built an interpretation of a Sidney Barnsley hay-rake table and has done a beautiful job. And that's the problem.

I've been dying to build one of these tables since before I came to work here. Barnsley has long been one of my heroes. He was a trained architect who chucked it all to design and build furniture mostly by hand. And to top it all off he had great design sensibilities.

Of course, now that Weber has built this table for the magazine, there's little chance that I'll be able to build one unless I can find a customer. Casa Schwarz doesn't need a massive dining table (already got one). Nor does anyone in my family. I could build one on spec and try to sell it, but I think I'd probably end up with the world's fanciest basement Pla-Doh table.

Maybe I could just build a small model of it…. Aw crud.

— Christopher Schwarz



Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.

Posted 10/27/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share


This morning I stumbled on a cool movie from 1940 that explains the types of woodworking jobs available at the time and has some really fun shots of veneering, furniture-making and patternmaking. If for some reason your browser won't display the movie, scoot on over to archive.org and you can choose from a wide variety of video formats.

My favorite part of the video is where they show the vocational students attacking some boards with tools. One of the students is planing a big old hollow in an edge. Then it shows him checking the edge to ensure it's square. Though you cannot hear the student, I'm sure he said something like, "Jeepers that edge sucks eggs."

If you have 10 minutes to spare, I think you'll enjoy this little flick.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 10/25/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share


After watching Frank Klausz cut a set of dovetails in three minutes using a special bowsaw blade (see the video here in our video section), Rob Cosman decided to show that it can be done by cutting the tails first. (Frank cuts his pins first.)

For those who don't know Cosman, he has produced a series of great videos on hand joinery and has a new companion book on dovetailing that we highly recommend. It's spiral bound for the shop and is the best book I've ever read on cutting this traditional joint. You can read more about his videos, book and tools at RobCosman.com.

— Christopher Schwarz


Looking for More Woodworking Information?
• Sign up for our newsletters to get free plans, techniques and reviews HERE.
• Looking for free articles from Woodworking Magazine? Click HERE.
• Like hand tools? Read all our online articles on hand work HERE.
• Want to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? It's $19.96/year. Click HERE.


Posted 10/25/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Handplanes with corrugated soles vex many woodworkers. If you find them on a vintage plane, should you grab it or should you shun it? If you order a bench plane from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, should you spend the extra $35 to get a corrugated sole or is that money better spent on some Lehman Brothers stock?

Corrugated soles started showing up on planes in the late 19th century. Craftsmen noticed that their newfangled metal planes were harder to push than their old-fashioned wooden-bodied planes, according to period accounts and patent papers.

So manufacturers began to mill corrugations in the soles of their planes. For a peek at their reasoning, check out this 1869 patent by E.G. Storke:

“…(E)xcessive friction was caused by their exact and even faces (of their soles), which were not materially varied by use or atmospheric changes.

“When used on very level surfaces, there were so many points of contact that the friction was troublesome, and the adhesion was further increased by atmospheric pressure, as partial vacuums would thus be formed.”

In other words, the planes were sticking to the work when the boards became really flat. I’ve encountered this when working with closed-grain woods, especially poplar and maple. In fact, if the board isn’t too large, I can occasionally lift the board off the bench because it is stuck to the tool’s sole. It’s a neat trick.

But is the plane harder to push if it doesn’t have corrugations? Many pointy heads I’ve talked to about this are dubious. Friction, they explain, is a function of force – not the surface area of the sole.

I have planes with both smooth soles and corrugated ones, and if there is a difference in effort required to wield them, I cannot discern it.

But there are some practical differences you should be aware of:

1. Corrugated soles on vintage planes are easier to flatten because there is less metal to remove. So if you have an old sole that needs work, corrugations are a plus.

2. The corrugations hold paraffin or wax. This wax wears away completely during use, so I assume it is lubricating the sole.

3. Corrugations on some sizes of vintage tools are rare. So if you are a collector, keep an eye out for them.

So here’s my bottom line: Corrugations don’t change the function of the plane for better or for worse, so it doesn’t really matter either way. I wouldn’t spend extra money to have them added, but I wouldn’t kick them out of bed for eating crackers, either.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/23/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

As a woodworking blogger, I try not to "overshare" when it comes to personal information. I try not to talk about my exotic skin lesions, what I had for breakfast and the wide array of annoying personal habits of my co-workers.

But today is a sad day here in the shop. It's time to let go of the "woobie."

The woobie is actually a rag (there, I said it) that has been soaked with the lubricating juices of many plants, animals and petroleums. For more than a decade, the woobie has wiped down every tool when I put it away. It has wiped every plane sole to make it easier to push. It has cleaned off every edge after sharpening.

But today I think the woobie goes in the garbage.

Here's the problem: I think the woobie has been contaminated by some sort of abrasive grit. Here's the evidence: My handplane edges are deteriorating more rapidly.

One of the indicators that it's time to resharpen a plane iron is when the shaving from the plane's mouth isn't intact across its width. It comes out as several smaller ribbons. What's happened to the iron is it has suffered small nicks or fractures in its edge that prevent it from taking a full-width shaving. Plus, it leaves little plane tracks behind at these fractures.

I've noticed that my smoothing plane iron at work is now deteriorating much more rapidly than my smoothing plane at home (which is where I keep "son of woobie").

More evidence: When I was teaching at Kelly Mehler's School of Woodworking in September I left my woobie at home. And after crouching and whimpering in the corner a bit because of my forgetfulness, I noticed that my edges were lasting a long time again, even though I was loaning my planes to the students.

Hmmm. The woobie sees a lot of abrasive when it wipes off my tools from sharpening. And it sits by the drill press, where there are metal filings and other nastiness. The woobie could be the source of the problem. Embedded grit could be scratching the irons when I wipe them off.

I could launder the woobie, but I want to stay married. So here's what I'm going to do: I'm going to put the woobie at the bottom of my now-empty garbage can, start a new woobie and monitor the longevity of my plane irons. If my edges improve I'll let the woobie go to the dump with the next load of trash.

And judging by how quickly we move here, that should be about Christmas.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/22/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

A lot of people ask to see my tool collection. I tell them I don't have one – I'm a user, not a collector. If I say that again, however, I'll be a liar.

Somehow during the last few months I've started acquiring edge-trimming planes. I've owned a Lie-Nielsen version – a right-handed copy of the Stanley No. 95 – for many years, and that was all this woodworker needed.

But this spring I heard Thomas Lie-Nielsen tell the story of how he got started in the plane-making business in the 1980s to a group of students at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking. I'd heard the story before: Lie-Nielsen began making the edge-trimming plane after picking up the business from machinist Ken Wisner.

This time, the story was different because one of the students at the school (Jeff Skiver) brought one of the Wisner planes to the class to show. (You can read about his plane in a blog entry I wrote in April.) As I held the little sucker, I thought it would be cool to own one of these Wisner planes as a piece of modern planemaking history.

So I started trolling eBay with little luck. Meanwhile, we got the new Veritas versions of the edge-trimming plane in iron, and (mystery of mysteries) those ended up in my tool chest. Then I stumbled upon an AMT version of the tool for sale that I couldn't pass up. The AMT version is, by the way, a complete piece of dung. Its red velvet bag is nice, however.

I knew I had crossed over when I started regretting not buying the stainless steel version of the plane that Veritas offered but is now sold out.

And this week, I finally got my Wisner.

Thanks to some help from Skiver, I found an eBay auction for a Wisner plane and snagged it for a fair price. When it arrived, I was thrilled with it. Not only is it well made, but it is the first used tool I've ever bought that came perfectly sharp and ready to go. That's the good news.

Here's the bad news: My Wisner plane has an iron body with a brass lever cap. So now I'm going to have to look for a Wisner with a bronze body. And the Veritas version in bronze.

And that stainless Veritas plane. Curses.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/20/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

Getting all the bits of hardware to match on a project is a critical detail for me. I go to great lengths to ensure the hinges, pulls and other assorted metal bits look like they came from the same family.

For example, for the blanket chest on the cover of the Summer 2008 issue I wanted to get the brown steel stays to match the black iron chest hinges. I ended up painting the steel stays black, then lacquering them and rubbing them out until they looked like the powdery black iron.

This might seem excessive, but every time anyone (even my kids) opens the chest for the first time, they comment on the cool hardware. It's definitely worth it.

One of the biggest problems with getting your hardware to match is dealing with shiny brass. I really dislike the way it looks for some reason. So I usually end up aging all the brass bits until they look like they have seen about 100 years of use.

Here's how I do it. First I strip any lacquer off the hinges. I'll pour a little bit of lacquer thinner into a Mason jar, drop the hardware in and shake the jar for a few minutes. Usually the thinner gets a little tinge of color (sometimes green).

I discard the thinner, dry off the hinges and clean out the jar. Then I drop the hardware back into the jar and add a tablespoon of liquid gun blue (I use Perma Blue made by Birchwood Casey). I shake it around until the brasses and screws are colored. Then I pour the gun blue back into the bottle and pour cold tap water into the jar.

After rinsing the hardware, I'll dry it off and let it sit out awhile. The instructions say you should allow the stuff to cure overnight. I haven't had any problems installing the hardware almost immediately.

I really like the color that gun blue imparts. It's always consistent, never streaky and doesn't look like a dye job.

There are other ways to go about this process. You could install the hinges and wait 100 years. You could use ammonia, which is the process Senior Editor Robert W. Lang uses. And I'm sure there are even more out there. If you have a favorite one that you think is even easier, post a comment below.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 10/17/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

When The Chronicle shows up in my mailbox, I know that my evening is shot. I take the magazine to our sunroom after dinner, settle down in my Morris chair and pretty much read the whole thing.

The Chronicle is the quarterly magazine of the Early American Industries Assc., a non-profit organization founded 72 years ago to understand early technology in the home, farm and workshop. Each issue explores the physical world of handcraft, though it is by no means a hand-tool-only publication. Machinery looms large in the history of early American industry.

What you get in each issue is a heavy dose of hard-to-find information on tools and processes that are in danger of vanishing, like quarrying granite or harvesting ice. And because our country was built mostly from wood with woodworking tools, there is always a strong woodworking undercurrent that runs through the publication.

In the new issue, which I just received last week, there are fantastic articles exploring the crooked knife (essentially a beautiful Native American drawknife), how to read tool marks on old furniture (axes vs. adzes vs. froes and so on), and a detailed exploration of the Stanley 620 hand drill.

How do you get The Chronicle? By joining the Early American Industries Assc. It's just $35 a year and opens up a world of tool information for you. In addition to The Chronicle magazine, you also get the organization's newsletter, the opportunity to attend their annual meetings (always in a cool place), the Eastfield Summer Workshop (usually on traditional skills) or take a European tool tour.

If you pick up your tools (hand or power) and understand that they are a connection to our past, I know you'll enjoy reading The Chronicle. You can join today by visiting their web site at eaiainfo.org.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Several years back I was fitting some 1/4"-thick mullions and muntins into a door and needed to plane the little suckers to remove their sawmarks.

Planing thin stock can be a real pain. I've seen how other craftsmen do it. Lonnie Bird drives escutcheon pins into his benchtop (or a planing board) and works against those. It's a neat trick. David Charlesworth attaches the stock to a planing board temporarily with cyanoacrylate. This is fantastic for long stock especially.

Here's how I came up with my method. I like to use planing stops because they are fast. And as I was considering how to plane these little nubbins of wood I was staring off into space outside my shop window and the tool rack hanging before it.

I remember thinking to myself: "For this planing stop, I need a really thin and rigid piece of material. Something with really square edges so they'll grab the work. I need something like a steel ruler."

So I searched over the junk pile in the window well behind my bench. (Note: This is my secret shame area. Though I don't have a tool well in my bench I have a junky window well instead.)

None of the little bits of wood in the window well fit the bill. They were too thick or their edges weren't crisp. Then it occurred to me: Hey moron, why not use a steel ruler?

And so I did, and I continue to use my slender 12" Shinwa to this day. It works great. I clamp it to the bench and go to town. And now to go get some ginseng.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 10/13/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

One of the most powerful things about hand tools is that they allow you to work on small areas of a board with ease. Instead of running the whole board through an electric planer to remove a small area of ugliness, you can usually remove it with a couple well-placed swipes of a handplane.

But exactly where you put those swipes is the topic of this blog entry.

This week I'm building a contemporary Arts & Crafts cabinet in maple for the master bath (OK, you caught me, it's a flipping potty cabinet). One of the structural details of the cabinet is that it has a thick base piece and top cap that are attached to the carcase.

The top cap and base are face-glued to the carcase. Getting the pieces to mate can be tricky. There are a lot of surfaces to get flat, and the fit between the carcase and the top cap and base will be highly visible (to me and my spouse, at least).

To encourage mating, I recommend friction (I think the human resources department is going to come down on me for this post).

First secure the carcase against your bench. Then take the mating piece and rub it vigorously against the carcase. About 10 swipes will be enough. Remove the mating piece and then get yourself down low so you can see light reflecting off the carcase. The high spots on the carcase and its mating piece will be burnished and will be shinier than the low spots.

Mark the high spots with a pencil. Then remove the shiny spots using a plane with a short sole, such as a low-angle block plane. Remove the high spots from both the carcase and the mate. Then repeat the process until you get the fit you want.

— Christopher Schwarz


Mark the shiny high spots with a pencil.

Then remove the high spots using a plane that has a short sole.


Posted 10/8/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share


Almost every day I get an e-mail or a phone call that goes something like this: "I'm a beginner. I want to buy some handplanes. But I have no idea where to start or what to buy. Help."

I'm happy to answer these questions (it's my job), but I noticed after 12 years of answering these pleas that I was saying many of the same things over and over again. So last night I did a mid-sized brain dump on the bench planes – both bevel-up and bevel-down.

It explains my rationale (and the historical rationales) for each plane size, from the No. 1 up to the No. 8. I fully admit that this article has a lot of opinions in it, but they are opinions based on a lot of work and experimenting with many different methods of work (there's a good reason I grew a beard like David Charlesworth's....)

In any case, you might find this article useful, infuriating or amusing. It might also help you if are ever asked: "Hey, I'm a beginner...."

Read the Full Article: "Understanding Bench Planes"

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 10/2/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

One of my favorite woodworking projects I saw in Germany: A hand-powered Ferris wheel at a Christmas street fair.

Whenever I travel abroad, I always ask the locals about woodworking as a hobby. More times than naught, I hear that building furniture for fun is about as popular as do-it-yourself knee surgery.

Is this really true? And if so, why?

I guess some of the reasons would be obvious. In poorer countries, people are too busy scratching out a living to engage in a hobby that requires tools, a workspace and wood.

But other reasons I've been given are more difficult to pin down and relate to culture, tradition and sometimes law.

When I was in Germany a couple years ago I got to tour a couple professional woodworking shops and talk to people who make and sell furniture.

The woodworking I saw there was excellent. The tools and machinery they used (much of it made in Germany and Austria) was higher in quality and price than what I see in a typical American professional shop.

And the country has a remarkable history of fine craftsmanship that stretches back many centuries.

Yet, woodworking for fun (with the exception of carving) isn’t terribly common in Germany, according to the toolmakers, professionals and locals that I chatted with.

This surprised me. The country has the tools, the traditions and vast forests.

One explanation I heard was that houses were smaller and were more likely to be masonry, as opposed to our stick-built wooden houses. So there isn’t as much room for a shop. And working on your house – a common way to enter the craft – is more difficult.

Another explanation I heard was that becoming a professional woodworker was a tightly regulated process in Germany. And that you have to be certified to sell your work. Other countries I’ve been to had a different set of explanations and challenges.

In fact, this week I heard from an American woodworker living in China who was having a heck of a time finding a way to purchase woodworking tools and machines – most of which are made right there in China.

He was contemplating having a friend in the States order the tools and ship them to him. So his trim router would have to cross the Pacific twice.

What have you found in your travels? I've found lots of woodworkers in Great Britain, Australia and other English-speaking countries where communication is easy. Or if you're in another country yourself, what can you tell us about woodworking as a hobby? Is there a secret underground of Swedish chairmakers?

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 9/30/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Normally when a book publishing company sends out a copy of its newest book, the marketing people will include a transcript of a short interview with the author that discusses the book. This is so that a lazy writer can quote the interview without having to actually do the interview.

What, you didn't know this? Well that's because these canned interviews are about 97 percent worthless. And any writer who quotes from them will be ritually shunned at the next gathering of media professionals (usually held at a stinky bar).

Not so with the interview that accompanied Roy Underhill's new book, "The Woodwright's Guide: Working Wood with Wedge & Edge" (UNC Press). The folks at the University of North Carolina Press conducted a fairly amusing interview with St. Roy. And so we're reprinting it here in its entirety for you to enjoy.

By the way, in case you missed it, check out the review I wrote of Underhill's new book for the blog last week.

— Christopher Schwarz

Q: How does The Woodwright’s Guide differ from other books in the Woodwright’s series?
A: The Woodwright’s Guide is an environmentally organized guide to woodcraft. It starts in the forest with felling the tree and ends with the final finishing in the workshop. My other books have followed a similar path, but this is the most comprehensive guide in the series, benefiting from thirty years of experience. It is also my first line-illustrated book with brilliant drawings by my daughter Eleanor. Her drawings, done from my photographs, give clarity to the ideas but retain the specificity of the places and the real people who do this wonderful work.

Q: How did your collaboration with daughter, Eleanor, come about?
A: Both my daughters, Eleanor and Rachel, worked with me on television and traveled with me to museums around the world. When it came time for the new book, I was looking at thirty years of photography of tools and techniques. Having Eleanor make drawings from the photos gave us both consistency and specificity.

Actually both daughters worked on the book. Eleanor did the drawings, and the ones that needed retouching went to Rachel. Both my daughters grew up surrounded by wood and tools, and it’s wonderful that we can still work together!

Q: Are there any special features of this book you’d like readers to be aware of?
A: The Woodwright’s Guide is a book with grain—just like wood. You can work it with your left-brain intellect, following the ideas in the text like a wedge following a split. You can also engage your right brain by grasping the “gestalt” captured in the illustrations. You can also put both the brain and hands to work because in the back of the book I have plans for workbenches, screw-cutting engines, and treadle lathes. I only regret that we weren’t able to include a few Band-Aids with each copy—but that’s in the works.

Q: What is the meaning of the book’s subtitle, Working Wood with Wedge and Edge?
A: The thread of “wedge and edge” runs through the entire book. A blade meeting wood either splits it as a wedge or cuts it as an edge. Wedge and edge consciousness in your woodworking gives meaning to the feedback through the tool handle, guiding your decisions with every move. Wedge and edge means honest woodworking that engages both the grain and the brain.

Q: What do you hope this book will impart to your many readers and fans?
A: I hope everyone can share the sense of wonder at the complexity and beauty of our connection to tools and wood. Our language, our culture, our ways of thinking, all evolved with the tools in our ancestors’ hands. Artisanship in wood is part of every human’s legacy, so let’s honor it.

And it’s not just nostalgia. We know that biodiversity is important to us. Well, so is techno-diversity. We can value heirloom technology just as we value heirloom tomatoes. It may not be commercial, but it sure tastes better!

Q: What led you to give up power tools and devote yourself to a career of working exclusively with hand tools?
A: During the back to the land movement of the 1970s I was homesteading in the New Mexico mountains, struggling to live off the grid. A chance encounter with a tool collector’s trove of treadle-powered tools made me realize that an advanced technology of non-electric machines had once flourished and then been abandoned. This was during the energy crisis of the 1970s and the deep significance of sustainable technology hit many of us like a trip hammer (a water-powered trip hammer, of course).

Q: What about woodworkers who blend the use of power tools with hand tools? Is this book also for them?
A: Curiosity is the ultimate power tool. If you work with wood, or just live on a planet where people work with wood, this is the book for you. That’s because The Woodwright’s Guide cuts deep, both into the way wood works, and into the history of the way we work it. So, if you’re trying to do better at a single task of joinery, this book brings you the observations of a thousand years. And, if you’re curious about our enduring relationship with the natural world, The Woodwright’s Guide will give you a sharper axe to hew your own insights.

Q: What have you been up to since your last Woodwright’s book, published in 1996, and how has it influenced this volume?
A: Shooting the PBS series The Woodwright’s Shop gives me the chance to travel and meet craftsmen and women from all over the world. It’s astounding the extraordinary depth of knowledge so many people have about specific areas of the craft. But it’s the stories I appreciate the most. From woodcarver Nora Hall, I heard stories of her father’s carving shop during the Nazi occupation of Holland. Even the work-worn log cabins and ground-down tools preserved at the Museum of Appalachia tell stories—stories of life and hard work in America’s “wooden age.”

Q: What or who have been the major inspirations during your career?
A: Working at Colonial Williamsburg (in spite of the fife and drum parades) was my university of hand craft. The master craftsmen at Colonial Williamsburg are people at the top of their art. It was a constant struggle for me to live up to their high standards of historical research, craftsmanship, and aesthetic sensibility. Still, it was a great place for me, a generalist, to be. If I needed to know something about wheel wrighting, blacksmithing, cooperage, or any of the trades that built our civilization, all I had to do was walk down the street and ask one of the master craftsmen. As Francis Bacon put it, this was a place where “Many ingenious practizes in all trades . . . shall fall under the consideration of one man’s mind.”

Q: You wrote your first Woodwright’s Book in 1981, over 25 years ago. Have you seen a resurgence in interest in hand-crafted woodworking during this period? Have attitudes changed? Has working with hand-tools gone in and out of style, according to larger trends in popular culture?
A: The cycle of high tech and high touch goes back hundreds of years. The first hand-craft, how-to book in English, Mechanick Exercises, or the Doctrine of Handiworks, was published in 1678. Even then, they were as much concerned with the virtues of “vanishing” hand craft as they were in getting the job done.

Now, of course, we are at a technical crossroads, and it’s good to have a back-up in case the big machine breaks down or runs out of gas. And if you’re going to have a hobby, it might as well be ethical. It seems counterproductive to make a nice wooden cradle for your grandchildren if you choose to make the planet uninhabitable in the process.

But even without the green issue, making things directly with our hands goes to the full depth of our humanity. We’ll never be done with it. Making something gives us the same kind of primal happiness we feel when we encounter a berry bush loaded with ripe fruit. Just as the old hunter-gatherer still resides in each of us, so too does the ancient hand craftsman.  

Q: How does the work you do and the way you do it connect to a larger philosophy of life?
A: It’s a mission. With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship. Just say “NO” to power tools! Let’s take a bite outta Norm!

Q: Why do you think your many fans have coined the nickname “St. Roy” to describe their devotion to you?
A: I’ve cut myself so many times on the television program that I remind folks of unfortunate martyrs like St. Sebastian. He met his fate on the receiving end of arrows, and St. Simon has an even more distressing history with the saw. I have the chisel. 

In my own defense, however, my TV director kept yelling “Cut!” and I was just trying to oblige.


Posted 9/30/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

The Hand Tool Events put on by Lie-Nielsen Toolworks are a great place to pick up new skills, learn about hand tools and test drive a wide variety of serious ductile and bronze beauties.

I've attended a good number of these events and have met some great people and learned quite a few things myself. I got to watch Michel Auriou make a hand-stitched rasp. I saw how Steve Latta makes stringing. I test drove Konrad Sauer's infill planes. And I lost a sawing contest with John Economaki of Bridge City Tools.

What I quite like about these free weekend events is that they are not just about hawking merchandise. There's no guy trying to sell you a magic broom or hustle you to buy some $4 router bits. The events are low-key – it's more like attending the opening of an art show than buying a used car.

This year, Lie-Nielsen has expanded the show schedule, including an event at our offices at Popular Woodworking in May. We'll also be exhibiting and demonstrating at the Chicago show. The Lie-Nielsen folks are still lining up the demonstrators for each show, so check in with the company's web site for details from time to time.

This weekend, the first event of the season will be at Fine Woodworking magazine in western Connecticut. If you go, be sure to stop by Mike Pekovich's bench and check out his demonstration on dovetail joinery – he's got some really interesting things to say about stance that I think you'll find interesting. Also, Matt Kenney, also from Fine Woodworking, will demonstrate shooting boards and miter jacks. Bob Van Dyke, director of the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking, will demonstrate saws and chisels. Chris Becksvoort will demonstrate at the Hand Planing Interactive Station. And John Economaki, the founder of Bridge City Toolworks, will have a display of tools to try.

Here's the schedule for the rest of 2008 and 2009. We hope to see you this spring.

2008
Newtown, Conn., Oct. 3-4, Taunton Press
Lancaster, Pa., Oct. 24-25, Thadeus Stevens College
Sturbridge, Mass., Dec. 5-6, Sturbridge Host Hotel

2009
Austin, Texas, Jan. 9-10, TBD
Costa Mesa, Calif., Jan. 23-24, Orange Coast College
Oakland, Calif., Feb. 13-14, The Crucible (Date may change)
Calgary, Canada, March 6-7, TBD
Vancouver, Canada, March 27-28, TBD
Toronto, Canada, April 17-18, TBD
Chicago, May 1-2, Jeff Miller Handcrafted Furniture
Cincinnati, May 16-17, Popular Woodworking magazine

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 9/26/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

One of the biggest struggles with learning hand tools is finding instructions that make sense. Many modern hand tool teachers have taught themselves to saw, plane and chop. And while their idiosyncratic techniques might work, they also can be inefficient.

You can go back to the original published sources, such as Joseph Moxon's "Mechanick Exercises," but the instructions there assume you are a denizen of the 17th century. So when you try to learn about using the hatchet, these are the instructions:

"The hatchet marked L, in plate 4. Its use is so well known (even to the most un-intelligent) that I need not use many words on it, yet this much I will say: Its use is to hew the irregularities off such pieces of stuff which may be sooner hewn than sawn."

Then there's Roy Underhill, host of PBS's "The Woodwright's Shop" and author of six books on the craft. He is one of the few people I've ever met who can bridge the gap between the hand craft of the pre-industrialized world and today. He reads Andre Roubo's works in the original French. But he carries a Macintosh laptop, codes his own animations and is on television.

This summer while I was teaching at the Northwest Woodworking Studio in Portland, Ore., Underhill and I overlapped by a couple days – he was teaching a class in making a lathe the weekend before my class on handsawing began. While we were chatting, he handed me a loose-bound copy of his latest book "The Woodwright's Guide: Working Wood with Wedge & Edge" (UNC Press).

During the following week, I devoured the entire tome during my free evenings with the company of a few great Portland beers.

I own all of Underhill's books. They are dog-eared second-hand affairs I picked up after finishing college that I have carried with me from town to town. I laugh out loud every time I read "The Debate of the Carpenter's Tools" in "The Woodwright's Work Book." (Yes, I am aware this is a problem and there is help available.)

So it is no small thing when I say that Underhill's new book (his first in 12 years) is his best. For starters, this book uses illustrations (by his daughter Eleanor Underhill) instead of photographs. This lends an air of consistency to the work and also allows you to focus on what is important in each image (instead of wandering over to look at the chisels on his bench in a photo).

The narrative of the book is just as clear. It begins in the forest with a description of a tree being cut down by a faller. Then you follow the tree as it passes into the village in the hands of the cleaver and countryman, the hewer, the log builder, the sawyer, the frame carpenter, the joiner, turner and cabinetmaker.

Each profession brings new skills into the narrative, but they are all joined by the fact that they manipulate the wood by splitting it or shearing it (by wedge or by edge). You clearly see how edge angles (simple geometry!) flow throughout and unite all the professions.

And, as you might expect, the prose itself is enlightening, literate and amusing. As Underhill writes about the qualities of wood:

“Like age on a man, water makes wood softer, heavier and fatter – but not taller.”

Unlike his previous books, however, "The Woodwright's Guide" is focused entirely on technique. Good thing, because that is what is sorely missing from the space between our ears. We can all find plans for a tool tote, bench or cabinet to build. But figuring out how to make a rule joint with moulding planes is beyond the grasp of most.

Underhill's other great strength is his ability to explain extremely complex ideas in a way that makes it feel like you've suddenly achieved Buddhist enlightenment. In this book, Underhill's explanation of how to determine and mark out compound angles for the splay of a sawhorse was worth the price of admission. I went around for several days after that in a giddy haze at finally – finally – understanding it. (The beer also assisted this warm and fuzzy feeling.)

And whatever you do, don't miss the book's short but hilarious and thoughtful conclusion titled "A Great Wheel." I refuse to spoil it in any way by even giving you a hint.

The book is not available yet, but you can pre-order it from a variety of sources, including direct from the publisher.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 9/23/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Without fail, every week readers ask me where to get their saws sharpened. I’ve run into some great saw sharpeners in my day, and I’m always happy to recommend their services. Today I’d like to tell you about Mark Harrell, who has taken saw sharpening service into the digital age.

Harrell, a 28-year veteran of the U.S. Army and a long-time hand-tool enthusiast, recently opened his business and web site, called TechnoPrimitives. Harrell offers everything from filing your slightly dull saw all the way up to a complete restoration of the sawplate, teeth and tote.

He also sells vintage saws that he has restored and sharpened. You can see his current auctions (and feedback) on eBay.

I recently sent Harrell an R. Groves & Sons carcase saw that has been sitting on the bookshelf in my office for several years. I bought the saw for a very small sum online because I really liked the shape of the 19th-century handle, and I really have a thing for carcase saws.

However, like many online transactions, this one was a disappointment. The split saw nuts were stripped and unsalvageable. The sawplate was crooked like a hockey player’s nose. And the teeth were all kinds of irregular ugly, perhaps like those belonging to its 19th-century English owner. (Note to self: I seem to be beating up on the orthodonture of our British ancestors a bit too much lately.)

I liked the handle too much to simply pitch the saw. So I replaced the sawnuts with some extras we had lying around the shop and put the saw on my shelf of hopeless tools (some day I’ll offer you a tour of this sad corner of my office).

So after finding out about Harrell’s new business, I fetched the saw and shipped it off to him directly to his shop in LaCrosse, Wis. I figured that this sickly saw would be a good test of Harrell’s restoration skills. Or it would make him rethink his business plan.

The saw arrived back today, beautifully packed. The whole process from start to finish took less than a week. Though we are up against two impossible deadlines this week in the office, I sneaked off to the shop on my lunch hour to make some crosscuts.

Sweet mother of mystery. Harrell brought this hopeless saw completely back from the dead. I was expecting Harrell to declare the saw DOA and ship me back the parts, mob-style. Or that he would give it a try but the saw would end up good for rough work only.

Instead, this saw graduated from the shelf of the dammed to a prized position above my workbench. The sawplate is near-perfect. The teeth are razor sharp, perfectly formed and set. It cuts fast and tracks straight. I doubt this saw has been in this good of condition for 100 years.

If you want to see the steps he took (and some before and after photos), he set up a page here that shows the restoration process.

So how much does the service cost? Here’s the price list:

• Base cost for just jointing/setting/sharpening: $35
• Retoothing, and jointing/setting/sharpening $45
• Sawplate straightening: $25
• Handle restoration: $25
• Total Rehabilitation / The Works (all of the above): $85  

Harrell did “the works” on the R. Groves & Son, but cut me a break because he didn’t repair the upper horn on the handle. My total cost: $60. I consider that price to be more than fair for the results.

If you have a dull saw that’s not earning its keep in your shop, I recommend you give Harrell’s services a try. Like me, I think you’ll be convinced. If you’ve used his services, feel free to post a comment about them below.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 9/17/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Chisels | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Stanley Works will unveil a new premium bevel-edge chisel this year that bears some similarities to the company's vaunted Everlasting line of chisels that were made between 1911 and 1942.

Like the Everlasting chisels, the new Stanley chisels will have the blade, head and shank made from one piece of solid steel with wooden scales. The vintage Everlastings were a little different in that the wooden handles completely surrounded the steel shank. The new chisels will have the beech scales infilled into the steel, much like a H.D. Smith perfect-handled screwdriver.

Stanley officials said the chisels will be made from high-carbon steel hardened to 59-62 on the Rockwell "c" hardness scale. The tools will be hand-finished and be available in the following sizes: 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4" and 1-1/2". The tools will be sold individually or in boxed sets of four and six sizes, officials said. They will be available only in woodworking specialty stores. Estimated pricing for the individual chisels is $17.99 to $19.99 each.

Company officials released the two computer renderings shown above. Production models are not yet available for testing.

Stanley has been testing prototypes of this chisel with woodworkers and builders, and 74 percent of those who used it said they'd consider switching to this tool. Because of its heavy-duty construction, Stanley officials said the tool will be ideal for both workshop and installation work.

From a furniture-making perspective, woodworkers will be interested in how narrow the side bevels of these chisels will be. Narrow side bevels are ideal for hand-dovetailing. It's hard to tell from a computer rendering what the tool will look like in steel, so I wouldn't make too much of the illustrations.

Also, many chisel users are keenly interested in how long their chisels will hold an edge. In my book, Stanley has always done well in this department. The yellow-handled Stanley U.K. chisels have always maintained a terrific edge for me. And the company's FatMax chisels have also been surprisingly durable and easy to sharpen (I have a set at home).

We'll obtain a set of these new chisels as soon as we can and report all the details. The chisel market is a crowded one (just open any woodworking catalog), so the quality of these new tools will be closely watched by competitors and consumers.

Also, a Stanley official sent me updated computer renderings of the company's new line of premium handplanes that we reported on here. There have been a couple changes to the details, particularly in the shoulder plane. I've posted these new renderings below.

— Christopher Schwarz

The standard-angle block plane.


The low-angle block plane.

The low-angle jack plane.

The No. 4 smoothing plane.

The shoulder plane.


Posted 9/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share


This year I've taught a lot of people to saw by hand during woodworking classes, shows, seminars and club meetings. Here's what I've found: People struggle when starting a cut to make a tenon cheek.

That makes sense. Good tenon saws are fairly coarse – 10 points per inch is typical. The saw is quite large, so you're focusing on balancing it. And the kerf begins on a corner, which further complicates things.

(And if you have a brand new tenon saw, it needs to be broken in a bit before it will cut smoothly.)

When Mike Wenzloff built a large-scale 18th-century-style tenon saw for me, he relaxed the "rake" of the teeth at the toe of the saw to make it easier to begin the cut. The rake is how far forward or back the teeth of the saw lean. The more the teeth lean backwards toward the handle, the easier the saw is to start.

Mike's solution works great, and I've found that this 19"-long beast of a saw starts like my grandfather's Mercedes 240D: real smooth.

However, several weeks ago, Thomas Lie-Nielsen sent me his solution to tenon saws that typically start like a 1970 AMC Gremlin: a progressive-pitch tenon saw. The "pitch" of a saw is how many teeth are in an inch of the saw's blade. The more teeth you have, the easier the saw is to start (but the slower the saw cuts).

Progressive-pitch saws have small teeth at the toe that get bigger all the way to the heel. The Lie-Nielsen has 13 points in the first inch of its toe. At the heel, there are seven points in the last inch of the blade. This is the same technology that the company has employed on its successful progressive-pitch dovetail saws. After some fumbling with the dovetail saw at first, I've switched permanently to this style of dovetail saw and couldn't be happier.


Here you can see the small teeth at the toe of the progressive-pitch tenon saw.

And here you can see the coarse teeth at the heel (same magnification).

For the last few weeks, I've been using the new Lie-Nielsen progressive-pitch tenon saw here at work and at home, and I like it. It is the easiest-starting tenon saw that I've ever used. And the coarse teeth at its heel make it just as fast as my Wenzloff saw.

I do think the Wenzloff is a bit easier to push (despite its size) because it uses a thinner sawplate. The plate on the Wenzloff measures .025" thick. The Lie-Nielsen is .031" thick (according to my calipers). The difference in thickness is also a factor in durability. A thicker sawplate is less likely to get kinked by its user, though I haven't had a problem with my Wenzloff.

I've been testing the larger version of the Lie-Nielsen tenon saw, which has a 14"-long blade and about 3-5/8" of blade under the brass back. I prefer larger-size tenon saws because the extra length helps you saw straighter.

The progressive-pitch tenon saw should be available soon, according to Thomas Lie-Nielsen, and will add an extra $10 to the regular price of $155 for the 12" rip tenon saw and $165 for the 14" rip tenon saw. I think it's $10 well spent.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 9/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Andre Roubo's 18th century five-volume masterwork on woodworking, "L'Art du Menuisier," needs to be translated to English. The little snippets I've picked up here and there are tantalizing and useful even to modern-day woodworkers.

As some of you might know, I've been working with Bjenk Ellefsen, a French-speaking reader, to begin translating the volume on carpentry and construction, but it has been slow-going for us (what with day jobs, families and woodworking hobbies to nurture).

To my great surprise, I recently was contacted by Jack Metcalfe – a practicing marqueteur living in Leeds, England – who has been working on translating the volume on marquetry with the help of a retired Scottish school teacher, Ms. Beatrix Wickens. She has completed the initial translation of that volume and they are now sorting out the technical language to polish the language. (The photo above is of one of their translation sessions together.)

The plan is eventually to publish this volume (and others) as a public service for the woodworking community. Here's where you can help. We need to find someone who has copies of the Roubo volumes that are more than 70 years old in order to reproduce the images from the books and comply with a variety of copyright laws.

If you have a first or second edition of Roubo, or if you know someone who does, could you contact us? While the commercial aspects of a project like this are minor for all involved, you would be doing a great service to the modern woodworkers in helping to bring this translation back into print.

You can contact Jack directly through his web site: the-marquetry-course.net

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 9/2/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

I'm passionate about cooking, but I don't get excited about cooking equipment. I've got decent cookware, questionable Far East knives bought from an infomercial and (somehow) enough silicone basting brushes for the whole neighborhood. Want one?

But when it comes to marking knives for woodworking, I'm tough to please. Exhibit A is over at WKfinetools.com. I've probably had about a dozen marking knives pass through my hands during the last decade, and none has pleased me as much as the small knife from Blue Spruce Toolworks.

It's the only knife that does everything I ask from a knife, from marking out skinny dovetails to making a coarse cutline for a crosscut handsaw. And I've written over and over how much I like it – perhaps to the point where you're wondering if Dave Jeske at Blue Spruce is padding my secret account in the Cayman Islands.

So a few weeks ago, I got a small box from Steve Quehl, who runs the Woodcraft store outside Atlanta. In it was a new knife made by Bob Zajicek of Czeck Edge. It's called the Kerf Kadet, and Steve offered to loan it to me to test in the shop.

I used it to mark out the joints on a Gustav Stickley plant stand I built last month, and today I spent some time marking out dovetails with it. And I can safely tell you that Steve is not getting this knife back. The most he can hope for is a check to reimburse him.

The knife is similar in some ways to the Blue Spruce knife, but it has some significant differences that are worth noting. The Czech Edge blade is a bit narrower (5/16" compared to 23/64") and shorter past the ferrule (1-5/16" compared to 1-1/2"). With those statistics, both knives will do most standard joint-marking chores.

Where the knives differ is in the handle and ferrule (the metallic transition from the blade to the wood). The Blue Spruce uses a smooth two-piece ferrule. The Czeck Edge uses a single machined bronze ferrule with three grooves turned into it. The grooves are not decorative. When you pinch the knife at the ferrule, the grooves improve your grip on the knife. I was surprised how much I liked the feel.

The wooden part of each tool's handle is also different. The Blue Spruce has a somewhat vase-like shape that opens up at the ferrule. When I grip the Blue Spruce, I put my fingers behind this area, which prevents my fingers from slipping off the knife when I add downward pressure.

The Czeck Edge has more of a pencil-like shape and is lighter in the hand. Both are comfortable in my hands.

How about fit and finish? It's impossible to beat Blue Spruce on this point, but the Czeck Edge is in a tie for first place. The knife is flawless. Crisp and smooth with a perfect transition from wood to metal. It's what you would hope for in your own work. One other nice touch: The Czeck Edge knives come with blade guards for storing the knife. And the price? It's fair: $37.95 to $41.95 depending on the wood you select.

I'm eager to put the Czeck Edge Kerf Kadet to some more use. Lucky for me I have a shop here at the magazine and a shop at home. So I really don't have to choose favorites.  

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 9/2/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Shaping
Bookmark and Share

After shutting its doors in late 2007 because of a labor dispute, Auriou Toolworks is set to re-open its doors this month and start shipping a small range of rasps directly to consumers, according to one of the owners.

This is great news for woodworkers because the worldwide supply of these excellent rasps – our favorites in the shop – has dried up since Auriou closed its factory. Prices for the Aurious increased to ridiculous levels on eBay. I found one rasp that went for $600; and even last week a small set of four rasps fetched $192.

Auriou (pronounced are-you) began producing handmade rasps in 1856 in Saint-Juery, France. The rasps are hand-stitched, meaning their teeth are punched out individually by an artisan. This handmade touch makes Aurious cut smoother than any machine-made rasp I've ever used.

After the factory closed, its assets were sold to a group of investors who sought to re-open the toolworks with Michel Auriou back at the helm. The investors have opened a much smaller factory now and is training new employees on the art of making the tools, says Mike Hancock of Classic Hand Tools in the United Kingdom, who was one of the investors.

Workers have made about 200 rasps so far and will be ready to fulfill international orders to North America within a week or two. For details, you can visit the company's web site at forge-de-saint-juery.com.

Initially, there will only be a limited number of models available, Hancock says, though that line will be expanded as more rasp-makers complete their training.

The five models available in September include:

• Albi rasps, a double-sided flat rasp that has different teeth on each side. It's useful for shaping flat or convex work.


• Rattail rasps, a tapered round shape useful for getting into small areas.


• Cabinet rasps, an all-purpose rasp with one flat face and one curved face. These will be available in 10" and 12" lengths and in a variety of tooth configurations.


• Modellers rasps, a small tapered rasp useful for finishing work started by the cabinet rasp.


• Curved ironing rasp, a short rasp with an offset handle that is useful for working difficult-to-reach areas.

Once production increases, Hancock says he plans to start supplying woodworking vendors in North America with the rasps within the next six months so woodworkers will be able to buy them domestically.

On a side note, Michel Auriou will be attending the Woodworking in America event in Berea, Ky., Nov. 14-16. So if you are signed up for that conference, you'll be able to meet him personally.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/29/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Thanks to everyone who entered our Shortcut contest to win the restored Millers Falls 2A drill from WKTools.com. About 100 people entered the contest, and about one-third of those entries will end up in print in the coming year. So even if you didn't win the drill, you still might will a free one-year subscription to Woodworking Magazine.

The winning Shortcut is what I like to call a "Jedi Mind Trick." It's a little way to remember something very important – in this case, the rotation direction of any router bit. As soon as I read this Shortcut I slapped my forehead.

And that's the sign of a good Shortcut. Here it is from reader Regis de Andrade:

The Right-Hand Thumb Rule

I learned this in engineering school and soon found out it worked for my router. It is called the "right-hand thumb rule."

When trying to remember which way your router bit is spinning so you can feed the wood in the correct direction, you can use the right-hand thumb rule.

Pretend your right hand is a router and your thumb is the router bit. If you are holding the router with your hands and the bit is pointing down to the floor, then hold your hand in front of you with your thumb pointing to the floor. Then curl your fingers. That's the direction your router bit is spinning.

If you are using a router table, hold your hand with your thumb pointing to the sky. Curl your fingers, and that's the direction your router bit is spinning.

That way you will never get confused again and always know the correct feed direction.

And it works for almost anything that spins: faucets, screws (regular thread), changing a tire (if you want to know which way to tighten or loosen the nuts) etc.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/27/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

There must be something in the water. During the last week I've gotten five messages from people asking me where I got the try square that is sometimes shown in step photos for Woodworking Magazine.

And so here's the story: Planemaker Wayne Anderson sent it to me several years ago after I spied it and lusted after it openly. How much does it cost? I don’t know. It was part of a complex trade.

The square is a one-pound package of laminated brass and rosewood that has been riveted together. The tongue is 5-1/2" long. The total length of the stock is 5-1/4". While I really like the heft of this square, it's the ogee pattern on the ends of the tongue and the stock that make me grab this tool over and over.

Several people have asked me if these patterns on the ends serve a purpose. Adam Cherubini wrote in his column that he suspected that different craftsmen might have used different patterns to differentiate their squares from one another in a busy shop.

I'll buy that. No one has yet dared to borrow this tool from me in our shop.  

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/19/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

For the next issue of Woodworking Magazine, we’re investigating the best way to make through-tenons – a hallmark of early American furniture, Arts & Crafts pieces and people who like to show off.

I’ve spent a good deal of energy investigating the joint personally. When I started collecting Arts & Crafts furniture in 1990, I quickly became attuned to spotting the joint in pieces for my collection.

Even better, I had a mentor with an incredible collection. Owen Riley was a photographer at the newspaper where I worked, and he had been collecting Arts & Crafts furniture for many years. His entire apartment was stuffed to the gills with the stuff. And he took great pains to teach me the difference between the makers – I can spot an L & J.G. tusk tenon over a Gustav Stickley tusk tenon from across a room.

And so I’ve always had a realistic view of how this joint appears in real-deal furniture that now costs five or six figures.

Here’s the real truth: The craftsmanship is all over the place. Take a look at the photo above. That’s a through-tenon on a signed Gustav Stickley slipper rocker from my collection. All the through-tenons on the piece look exactly like this. Clearly, they were made with some sort of boring tool, perhaps a drill press or perhaps some form of spindle machine. Heck you can still see some torn grain on the surface of the joint that indicates the rotation of the cutter.

No effort was made to square up the ends of the joint. No effort was made to round over the tenon to match the radiused mortise. There’s just a gap that’s plainly visible on the outside surfaces of the leg.

I always like to compare that joint to the through-tenons on my Charles Stickley arm chair. Charles was one of the “lesser” Stickley brothers, and the craftsmanship and style of his work is often derided by modern writers. The through-tenons on his chair are perfect, as good as any high-class modern work in a gallery.

There’s no consistency by maker. Roycroft through-tenons? Raggy. Limbert through-tenons? Not bad except for a couple overcuts – probably from a saw.

So what’s the pattern? Visibility. The more visible the joint, the more likely that the maker went to great lengths to make it tidy. That seems like it should be obvious, but that has not been my experience with modern work (especially my own).

My inclination is to make the suckers perfect. Why? Because I often have other woodworkers snooping around my house, pulling out my drawers, turning over my tables and the like.

So how do you make these joints spot-on? I’ve used several methods, which we’ll be exploring in the issue. For long and skinny joints, it’s hard to beat a highly-tuned hollow-chisel mortiser (though I’m going to try). For squarish joints, it’s hard to beat a template and a router.

And, in the end, it’s hard to beat wedging, which can expand a tenon into a loosely fit joint. Or, if you’ve had a bad day, putty and a dark dark stain…..

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 8/14/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks continues to turn back the clock (a good thing in the world of hand-tool woodworking). The Warren, Maine, manufacturer plans to offer a version of the 18th-century French-style workbench made popular in Andre Roubo's "L'Art du Menuisier."

The company has just completed work on its first Roubo bench (shown above) for a customer. The bench is quite similar to the version I built for Woodworking Magazine, with a few exceptions. The two ends of the base are a bit different – there's extra stretchers in there to attach the top, plus cross-bolts that allow the bench to be knocked down. Also, there is a twin-screw vise in the end-vise position at the request of the customer.

All the important functional details are spot-on. There's a wooden planing stop mortised into the top. There's a crochet and a leg vise – you don't have to have both bench accessories to plane things on edge, but they are both convenient and useful. Also, Lie-Nielsen has added a sliding deadman. This is an accessory not shown in Roubo, but is very handy for securing wide panels and doors.

The bench is maple, and Thomas Lie-Nielsen reports that it weighs 400 pounds. The top is 4" thick, 24" wide and 8' long. When the bench is put into regular production, the legs will be 4" x 4".

The bench will be more expensive than the two styles now offered by Lie-Nielsen, a European bench starting at $2,000, and a David Charlesworth-style bench for $1,500. Thomas says that building the Roubo involves additional labor and material.

If you're interested in ordering one, you'll need to wait a bit. The company has temporarily suspended taking orders for benches until it can reduce the waiting list, which Thomas says is now at about nine months.

But if you've seen these benches at shows or in other shops, you know that the quality justifies the wait.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/13/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

Whenever John Economaki of Bridge City Tools teaches classes about furniture design, he always asks his students a question that seems to have no good answer.

The question goes something like this: Would you rather have a piece of furniture with great lines but so-so craftsmanship, or a somewhat dumpy-looking project with perfect and crisp joinery throughout?

You'll have to read to the bottom of this entry to find out how John's students answer the question. Me? I've been struggling with the question all week.

I'm just now applying the first coat of color to a Gustav Stickley plant stand for the next issue of Woodworking Magazine, and I've been beating myself up all week over this piece and my workmanship on it.

The project itself is straightforward and is all familiar ground for me. Whenever I work on a project like this, I try to stretch myself by focusing on some detail to see if I can make it more refined and crisp than before.

For this project, I focused on the curves, and I went to great lengths to get the swoops just right on the aprons and stretchers. And for the most part, I was pleased with how they came out.

And that's when the tenons for the top rails came and bit me on the hinder.

During the final assembly I clamped everything up, drove in the tusk tenons at the bottom of the plant stand and walked away for about eight hours. When I removed the clamps, everything looked good for about a half an hour. Then two of the tenons at the top of the plant stand began to separate at their shoulders. Each one opened up about .006". I think the tusk tenons are pulling them apart. Something was a little bit off in the assembly and there wasn't any good way to turn back.

So I spent an hour on Tuesday morning feeding white oak shavings from my jointer plane into these gaps in an effort to obscure them. After forcing the glue-covered shavings into the gaps with tweezers, things looked better. But they sure as heck weren't "according to Hoyle."

I have to have this project done by Monday, and I have an involved finishing schedule ahead, so I grabbed the stain today and went to work. As the color went on, two things happened: One, I could see my mistakes just as well. You can't fill gaps with stain. Well, I sure can't.

And second, I became smitten with the genius of Gustav Stickley, who designed this plant stand. As the color went on I began to see how the overall piece would begin to look. I stopped seeing the individual components.

So to answer John Economaki's question, I think I prefer a project with beautiful lines to a project with perfect craftsmanship. I want both. Maybe next time.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. Here's how John's students answer the question: He told me that virtually everyone he's taught says they would prefer the perfectly joined clunky one.


Posted 8/11/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Type up your best shop trick, tip or shortcut this week and you could win a restored Millers Falls 2A hand drill (which sells for more than $100) and get published in our "Shortcuts" column.

"Shortcuts" in Woodworking Magazine features the small little tricks, tool modifications or shop practices that make your work a little easier. We generally don't publish full-scale plans for miter-saw stations or shop-made jigs for routing dovetails.

To give you an idea of some good Shortcuts, you can download a page of them from our Fall 2008 issue. I particularly like the one from Marc Adams for making square holes for pegs – I've used this Shortcut myself quite a bit.

Shortcuts.pdf (407.67 KB)

So here are the rules: Send your Shortcut to me via e-mail at chris.schwarz@fwpubs.com and include the word "Shortcut" in your subject line so I know it's a contest entry. All entries are due by midnight Friday, Aug. 22.

The best Shortcut – as determined by the editors – will win the restored Millers Falls 2A drill from Wiktor Kuc at WKTools.com. (Yes, it's the one I recently wrote about here.) These restored drills are something to behold. No detail is left undone as Kuc restores them. We'll announce the winner on or before Aug. 27 here on the blog.

Any runners-up will also get their Shortcuts published in a coming issue and receive a one-year subscription (or renewal) to Woodworking Magazine.

Sound good? I think so. Let's see what you come up with.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/10/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

This weekend we went to a little street fair in downtown Cincinnati to see some art, eat some Belgian waffles and – unbeknownst to us – consider the question of raw material selection in building furniture.

As we made our way through the vendors on Main Street, we heard that the Contemporary Art Center had a booth where kids could build “little furniture.” Katy, my 7-year-old shop helper, tugged at my arm and said she wanted to check it out.

So we strolled to the other end of the fair and found the tent in question. And indeed, there were about 10 kids there making miniature chairs, beds and shelving units using 2” x 2-3/4” Formica samples and masking tape.

There were a lot of boxy Bauhaus chairs made from “Porcelain Grafix” samples and a dollhouse-sized rug made up of Formica samples of “Natural Figured Maple.”

As soon as Katy saw the Formica samples she stopped dead in her tracks. I put my hand on her shoulder and asked if she wanted to give it a try.

“I don’t want to do this anymore,” she said, turning back toward the bandstand.

“Why not, honey?” I asked.

“I thought they would be using real wood,” Katy said.

So we skipped the Formica and fabricated some people and dogs from pipe cleaners instead. Looks like I’ve been raising a wood snob without knowing it.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 8/4/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Boring
Bookmark and Share

For those of us who buy old tools, one of the fantasies involves time travel. Wouldn't it be cool to walk into a hardware store in the late 19th century and buy a new Stanley Bed Rock plane off the shelf? Or how about an entire set of chisels from James Swan?

Until we build a time machine, we're just going to have to be satisfied with the work of Wiktor Kuc, who rebuilds hand drills to better-than-new glory.

Back in April I wrote a blog entry about a Millers Falls No. 5 that Kuc restored. Last week he loaned me a Millers Falls 2A for evaluation. I was so blown away by the tool, I had to show off some photos here on the blog. And I also decided to break the color barrier to do it.

And I wasn't the only one who was impressed. This drill was sitting on my desk a few days ago when Publisher Steve Shanesy stopped by. He picked up the hand drill and had a confused look on his face.

"Did Millers Falls start making these again?" he asked. "This is incredible."

Then Steve did what I did when I got the drill: He looked at the knurling on the chuck. I have a beloved 2A that I use all the time in my work and I thought my drill was minty. Apparently I don't know minty. The chuck on Wiktor's drill looks like it should still be covered in lubricant from the factory floor. It's just that perfect.

The entire frame has been repainted and baked. Not a flake or worn spot can be found. The wooden parts have been replaced with new turned parts – plus new ferrules. The only evidence I can find on this drill that it is not 5 minutes old (instead of 40+ years old) is that the drive gear has the slightest evidence that it was once pockmarked by rust. The rust is gone, but the tiny pits remain, if you look close enough.

In use, the thing is as good as it looks. All the gears mesh tightly and the crank handle spins with very little effort thanks to the thorough de-gunking from Kuc.

Of course, there is an ethical issue here to be debated. When I posted my last blog entry I received a fair number of private e-mails from people who were worried that restoration work like this could easily get out of hand. That anything other than a gentle cleaning ruins a tool's status with collectors. And even if it were a user tool in question, one should only do what it takes to get the tool running again. Removing the patina of use erases the tool's beauty and the evidence of the craftsmen who used it before.

These are good points that should be debated. Here's my take: I see these drills at every tools sale and flea market I haunt. They show up on eBay like clockwork. As far as I know there are enough of these drills for 100 museums dedicated to the great hand drills of Millers Falls.

Even someone with Kuc's work ethic shouldn't be able to deplete our supply of Millers Falls drills.

And Kuc is providing a service that might not be obvious. I love old tools and their patina, but there are lots of customers who will buy only new tools. I once spent a half hour begging a guy to buy an old brace instead of a new one. No matter how excellent (and inexpensive) the old ones were, he had to buy new. And this guy isn't alone.

So if you like old tools and want a vintage hand drill, here's what you should do: Visit OldToolHeaven.com – the best site for researching Millers Falls products. Pick out a few of the drills you like and start haunting the flea markets and online auction sites. I guarantee you'll find a decent drill for about $25 that will work with little or no restoration work on your part.

Or, if you like new and shiny, then visit WKTools.com and browse through his selection. Kuc has excellent taste in drills; I didn't see any of the low-rent hand drills that were intended for light-duty on his site. Just the premium iron.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/29/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Veritas has just released its much-awaited Side Rabbet Plane (at a special introductory price) and Veritas was generous enough to permit me to test-drive it here in our workshop.

Though I still am getting comfortable with the tool, below are my initial impressions after trimming out about a dozen grooves and rabbets this week.

About Side Rabbet Planes
Side-rabbet planes are specialty tools that belong in the family of joinery planes. They are used to clean up and widen the difficult-to-trim walls of rabbets, grooves and dados. To be honest, some craftsmen don't use these planes at all. Instead of trimming a dado wider, they will trim the mating panel instead. Both perspectives work.
 
There are two kinds of metal-bodied side-rabbet planes (and there are wooden ones as well). The Stanley Nos. 98 and 99 have a right-hand version and a left-hand version so you can work with the grain in grooves in rabbets. The other format is to combine both cutters into one tool. Stanley did that in its No. 79 (with mixed results in my book). And the English Preston version (and later Record version) got it right.

Lie-Nielsen makes versions similar to the Stanley, but in bronze. I've used them and they work quite well.

Veritas Specifications
The Veritas Side Rabbet Plane is similar to the Preston plane: One cutter is on top. One is below. A handle is in the middle. Veritas, as always, has made improvements to the design that are beyond the "socks on a squirrel" variety.

The sleek handle – which reminds me of a beetle's back – pivots up and down depending on which cutter you are using. The handle is spring-loaded and doesn't slip during use – which is saying something because you have to apply significant hand pressure to these tools in use.

The handle is comfortable. It burrows into your palm without poking you.

The other major advancement for the user is the irons. Veritas has lapped the flat faces of these O1 (high-carbon) steel irons so sharpening them up takes only minutes. And when it comes to skew-cutting planes this is critical. A small sharpening error with a skew plane and the tool won't function correctly.

The other thing to note about the tool is its depth stop, which locks quickly and squarely (thanks to some clever machining) in either direction. You also can remove the toe piece of the tool with a screwdriver so you can work into the corners of stopped rabbets, grooves and dados.

In putting the tool to use, I was impressed (as always) with the irons and how easy they took an edge. Sharpening them without a jig is fairly simple work because the bevels are quite large and register firmly on a sharpening stone.

The only modification I'd recommend to the irons is to relieve the acute corner of each iron as it will dig in a little deeply in use (and will get worn away anyway). Veritas recommends this in the manual, and it is a two-minute job with a file. Be careful not to go too far – the point needs to extend beyond the sole a tad.

The real skill to learn with this plane is starting the tool. All the varieties of this tool have a small nose that you have to register against the sidewall of the joint you are going to trim. So it takes a steady hand to start a clean cut. Once you begin, the tool is easy to manage in the cut. The Veritas works in cuts up to 1/2" deep.

Trimming the long grain of grooves and rabbets is easier than trimming the end grain in dados, so start with the easy stuff first. This style of tool isn't hard to use, but I wouldn't practice on a live project piece.

The Veritas Side Rabbet plane costs $139, but it will be offered at a special introductory price of $119. You can order one through this link.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/29/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Good news: One of the best books on making chairs is now back in print and available at a reasonable price.

"The Chairmaker's Workshop" by Drew Langsner has been selling for ghastly prices ($200 or more) on the secondary market ever since the original publisher allowed this book to lapse out of print.

"The Chairmaker's Workshop" is a must-have 304-page book for anyone who wants to build Windsor or post-and-rung style chairs. Langsner, who runs The Country Workshops school in Marshall, N.C., has done an outstanding job of collecting his decades of chair-building experience into one book.

My personal copy is dog-eared and coffee stained. Some of the chapters I read more than 10 times as I made my first forays into building stick Windsor chairs. Without this book (and a couple classes), I'm not sure I would have had the confidence to build a chair on my own.

There are great chapters on setting up your tools (or making your own), setting up shop, processing wood and shaping it using traditional methods. For me, the heart of the book is the plans and instructions Langser offers for the 11 chairs featured in the book.

So once you pick out a form that you are interested in, you can fully explore how that form is built and learn all the skills particular to a Windsor chair or a post-and-rung chair (they're very different forms).

This book is clearly a labor of love. Every single page is packed with detail, the kind that comes from personal experience. There are hundreds of line drawings and photographs of every step in the process.

Unlike the original edition, this one is made using a "print on demand" process. The paper is not as glossy, and all the photos are in black and white (the original had both color and black-and-white photos). Langsner also noted that he updated some of the photos and drawings and made some necessary corrections.

To help promote the book, Langsner is also giving away a package of enlarged plans for all 11 chairs (which normally sells for $16.95) to everyone who buys "The Chairmaker's Workshop." This offer is only while supplies last.

Langsner sells "The Chairmaker's Workshop" directly for $50 plus shipping and handling. You can get more information on the book through the school's web site countryworkshops.org or you can order it by calling 828-656-2280.

Be warned: Chairmaking books are tricky. They go in and out of print worse than any other kind of woodworking book out there (just try to find a copy of Michael Dunbar's book on Windsor chairs). If you think you'll ever want to get into chairbuilding, secure your copy now for that day.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/25/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Raw Materials
Bookmark and Share

"There is something about the outside of a horse...that is good for the inside of a man."
– Attributed to Winston Churchill


Whenever I start on a project, the most curious part is sorting out my pile of rough lumber into piles of finished parts. Selecting for grain, figure and color is as important to me (maybe more) than tight-fitting joints.

So today as I launched into the cover project for the Winter 2008 issue I was amused to find that I stayed in a deep rut that I've been in since I started in the craft. Whenever I select my boards for color and figure, I almost always choose the heart side of a board to face out instead of the bark side.

Even in the legs for this project, which are predominantly bastard grain, have the heartwood facing out in three of the four. I know that I read somewhere that there are other woodworkers who do this, too. But I am at a loss for a good explanation, as is my wood bible: "Understanding Wood" by Bruce Hoadley.

The consistency should come as no surprise. Heart-side wood and bark-side wood can reflect light in different ways. So if you obeyed you shop teacher and glued up a panel using boards that had alternating growth rings (heart-side to bark-side to heart-side etc.) you could end up with a top that has a striped look, especially once the finish is on it.

But that doesn't explain why I always choose the heart side. If anyone has a good explanation, I'd like to hear it in the comments below.

The project itself is a Gustav Stickley plant stand with a tile top. The project doesn't appear in any of the catalogs that I own, but I've stumbled over a few signed examples since I started collecting in 1990.

I enjoy projects like this because they don't use a lot of wood, but they contain lots of fun challenges. For starters: tusk tenons, weirdo offset and intersecting mortises, and incorporating a standard floor tile into the design. And there are some nice gentle curves.

And so I'll end with another horse-related quote that applies to woodworking and the challenges ahead in this small plant stand.

"It is not enough for a man to know how to ride; he must know how to fall."
– Mexican Proverb

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/23/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

My first fillister plane was so pathetic it's a wonder I'm not the poster boy for DeWalt routers. But then, I don't look so good in yellow. Mom says I'm a winter.

Abut a decade ago I bought a Sargent copy of the execrable Stanley No. 78. I know I'm being hard on a plane that many people like and use ("execrable" means "not so good"). But every example I've used of this plane has a wobbly fence – no matter how tightly I screwed the thing in (yes, I used a nail) or how tightly I cinched the lone thumbscrew.

So I was quite pleased to buy a C. Nurse moving fillister plane with a wooden body. It is a Cadillac: steel sole, brass wedge securing the nicker, smooth-acting and locking depth stop. But I've always been at a loss as to recommend a new maker for those woodworkers who don't want vintage.

This week I received a moving fillister plane that I ordered from Philly Planes in England, and it is all I can do to stop typing and rush out to the shop and cut some rabbets. In fact, I'm just back from another rabbeting session.

Philip Edwards, the man behind Philly Planes, has done a remarkable job of building a traditional wooden-bodied moving fillister plane that works right out of the box. (Another choice for those who like new planes is the European moving fillister version from ECE. I've also seen one from Clark & Williams.)

Here are the pertinent details: The Philly Planes moving fillister is 9-3/4" long with an 1-1/4"-wide skewed iron that's 1/8" thick and made from O1 – high-carbon steel. The iron is pitched at 55° and (once you get the fence involved) the plane will cut rabbets up to 1-1/8" wide and 1-1/8" deep.

The fence is a ½"-thick slab of beech secured to the body of the plane with two straight-head bolts and threaded inserts – which will ensure many years of long service. The depth stop adjusts smoothly with a knurled brass knob. Also a nice touch: The sole is lined with a sizable chunk of boxwood that covers rabbets up to almost a 1/2" wide – again, it's another touch that says this plane is in it for the long haul.

Everything about the plane feels right, from the action of the wedges to the fit in the hands. And, as a bonus, it comes fully sharpened and ready to go. And that's a good thing because I was ready to go as soon as it arrived.

In use, the plane performs as a well-tuned vintage wooden-bodied moving fillister. Shavings curl up smartly out of the escapement and drop onto the bench. Rabbets form quickly, whether cross-grain or with the grain.

The price is 175 pounds. With our weak dollar that's about $350. Delivery time for me was about five weeks from the time I placed the order.

The moving fillister is as essential to a hand woodworking shop as a smoothing plane, and Philip Edwards makes a very nice version. If anyone has experience with the ECE version, please add a comments below. I'm sure we'd all like to hear about it.

— Christopher Schwarz 



Posted 7/23/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

For those of you who prefer the digital version of Woodworking Magazine, we've just added Issue 10 to our store. It's $6 and can be downloaded immediately by clicking here.

Issue 10 – the Summer 2008 issue – focuses on different ways to build chests. I know what you're thinking: There's a different way to build a chest? Yup. There are several, and many of them seem simple but end up taking more time than they should. Or they require some real fussiness.

So we surveyed the historical crop of techniques, picked the best one and show you how to use it to build a contemporary adaptation of a Shaker blanket box.

Other good stories in this issue include Robert W. Lang's investigation of the finger joint. His jig for making the machine joint is simpler than a commercial jig, inexpensive and a treat to use (I've used it quite a bit). Also, Glen D. Huey tested screws and found that the cheapest screws are the most robust. And what's really surprising is which screws turn out to be the cheapest. You can read about all the stories in this issue here.

By the way, we're still working on offering digital subscriptions, so thank you for your patience on this issue.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/22/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

I always liked the look of my yellow pine Roubo-style workbench. That is, until last week.

That's when I got a look at Jameel Abraham's version of a Roubo workbench in ash, which puts most workbenches that I've seen to shame. Honestly, it should come as no surprise that Jameel would go over the top. He's a luthier and builds stunning ouds. What's an oud? It's a proto-lute. Check this link.

So anyway, back to the bench. Jameel took the basic Roubo form and added a sliding leg vise, something Roubo also did in a later volume. He called that form a German bench. Then Jameel added a wagon vise using custom machined hardware that is similar to David Powell's tail vise shown in "The Workbench Book."

Jameel documented the construction of his bench with photos, text, drawings and even some movies on his blog. All in all, it's a great read and a great resource for anyone seeking to build a fine bench.

Here are links to the blog listings in the correct time order for your convenience:

• Introduction
• Rails and leg mortises
• Leg details and vises
• Vise chops
• Leg vise action
• Tail vise details
• Leg vise rollers
• Leg vise breakthrough
• Building the top
• Tail vise construction
• Attaching the top, leg vises
• Fin

Congratulations to Jameel on this impressive bench. We should all aspire to do such excellent work.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/20/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

It’s funny how the most exquisite things in life come from the simplest surroundings.

It’s Thursday night in a small scratch of a town called Cornelius about 40 miles out from Portland, Ore. We pull into a small industrial park that’s right on the railroad tracks. It’s the kind of place where at least one of the tenants customizes cars (a fact that is confirmed later in the evening with a primordial muffler blast).

Mike Wenzloff, sawmaker, has worked that entire day building saws, but he has cheerfully agreed to give me and some woodworking students an evening tour of his new sawmaking facility. He’s also been smoking a mess of barbecue for us.

Wenzloff leads us through a couple small rooms at the front of his unit that are stuffed with boxes. The first one is filled with boxes of vintage tools. The second one is stacked with cardboard boxes for his saws. The third room is the production floor.

I’ve seen a lot of factories filled with robots, CNC lathes and machines that can make 1,000 nails a minute. But that didn’t prepare me for the 19th-century sight behind door No. 3. For the operation that is Wenzloff & Sons uses basic equipment found in home workshops, small vintage saw-making machines and a few custom-built motorized jigs to turn out work of immense utility and beauty.

The brass backs are slotted on a small heavily modified machine you could find at Harbor Freight. The wood is cut and milled on Jet machines intended for a small hobby shop. And the steel is processed using an astonishing amount of handwork – from the hand-cranked retoother to the sanding bench, where each handsaw gets an hour of sanding to remove the marks left by the taper-grinding process.

Scattered around these small machines are the bits and pieces that make up a Wenzloff & Sons saw. There’s a box of beech handles for panel saws. A pile of folded brass backs for immense 18th-century-style tenon saws. A wall of expensive and wildly figured boards propped up like suspects in a line-up against the 1970s-looking paneling in the garage bay.

And then there’s Wenzloff and two of his three sons, who are furiously trying to beat down a waiting list that is more than 4,000 saws long. They refuse to raise their prices. They refuse to cut corners. And Wenzloff is surprisingly open about that fact that he is behind and how much he hates that fact.

He walks us through the factory and explains how everything is done. No secrets (except for the taper-grinding machine in his shed by his house). He even gives a quick saw-filing demonstration to one of the students who is interested in learning it.

Making a saw begins with Swedish steel that is toothed and filed on vintage Foley equipment, which is no longer made. The teeth are then hand-set and hand-filed.

If the saw has a brass back it is either folded over for the old-school 18th-century saws or it’s slotted on a machine with a plywood jig that Wenzloff built himself. The backs are then chamfered on a small attachment to a Wilton sanding station and then sanded smooth on a belt sander.

The handles are cut to shape on a band saw, shaped using router bits and then rasped and sanded by hand. The brass nuts and bolts that hold everything together are added after all the holes have been pierced with a drill press. Then the handles are sanded and finished and the whole package is shipped out the door.

Despite the immense backlog of orders, Wenzloff and his sons seem relaxed, even jovial as they show us around their facility. Maybe they’re just good-natured folks. Or maybe they know that they are doing excellent work that just cannot be rushed.

Wenzloff poses for some photos from the students, shakes everyone’s hand and packs us up for our drive back to Portland under the most astonishing moon I’ve seen in a decade. Wenzloff waves good-bye and then heads back into his shop to clean up and prepare for another day of saw-making.

Christopher Schwarz, with all photos by Narayan Nayar


Posted 7/11/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Last night I pursued one of our naughty cats into my oldest daughter's closet, where I saw something that was just shocking.

It was a … well, it's difficult to describe. Imagine a blanket chest without a lid. What form of furniture is that? A feed trough? In any case, it was chest-like. And it had some Southwest touches. The top edge had a cut-out that looked like stair steps. And that same detail was repeated in the plinth.

It was built using white pine. The corners were joined with finger joints. Large ones. Let's call them "elephantine thumb joints." And it had a water-based topcoat on it. I know this because the grain was clearly raised.

I had built this monstrosity right after college and apparently had done a good job of blocking its existence from my memory. It had been a gift for my wife, as I now recall, and it was the "payoff" for me buying a Skil cordless drill, which lasted about a year in my shop.

In retrospect, I wish I'd thrown this project out with the drill.

(And why did I need a cordless drill? To screw together the finger joints of course. I didn't have enough clamps at the time to do it right. Or I didn't know better.)

The whole experience was like bumping into an old friend at the store who hasn't aged well. After getting over the denial that I had built this Franken-trough, I considered hauling it to the curb this morning. Friday is garbage day here. But then I saw something that changed my mind.

My daughter was using it like a corral to store her collectible Breyer horses. They were lined up in there in their tack and other very expensive accessories. It was evident that this abomination of a project still had an important job to do for my daughter. And so I decided to delay its date with the curb.

The good news here is that if you simply persevere you will get better. This morning I set my coffee down on the lid of the blanket chest that is on the cover of Issue 10 of Woodworking Magazine. It also has finger joints at the corners, but that is where the similarities to its crazy grandma locked in the upstairs closet end. The joints are airtight (even without the help of Phillips screws). The miters on the plinth are just so. The finish is nice and smooth.

The bad news here is that craftsmanship is always a moving target. In another 15 years, this new blanket chest might be stuffed in a closet somewhere in the house, and its replacement might be in our living room. This morning it's hard for me to visualize what the new one would look like, but that uncharted territory is one of the things that gets me in the shop almost every day.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. I just couldn't bear to take a photo of the original project. There already is enough ugliness on the Internet, don't you think?


Posted 7/7/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

When it comes to dovetailing, I’ve never really had a dog in the fight between dovetailers who cut the pins first and those who cut the tails first. I was first taught to cut my tails first, though I’m also comfortable cutting the pins first (I spent a whole year cutting pins first so I understand its advantages).

But as I get older, I guess I’m getting more set in my ways and am officially entrenched with the tails-first crowd. Why? Well I guess it’s because of the tools I use and processes I have chosen through the years that make my choice inevitable.

Reason 1: Gang cutting. I like cutting two sets of tails simultaneously for drawers. This is impossible to do (well) if you cut pins-first.

Reason 2: I own a narrow-bladed knife. One of the big advantages of cutting pins-first is that you have a lot of room to navigate when you transfer your marks to the tail board. I have a very narrow-bladed knife, so sneaking it between the tails is no hassle for me. If I didn’t have this tool, I’d probably be a pins-first person.

Reason 3: I rabbet my boards before cutting the tails. Years ago, Glen D. Huey showed me a trick where you rabbet the inside face of your tails to make transferring the marks to the pin board easier. The shallow rabbet (about 1/8") gives you enormous precision in aligning your pieces. Glen is a pins-first guy, and the system works with pins-first dovetailing. But I think it really shines with tails-first because you can clamp your pin board in a vise and really apply pressure with the tail board.

Reason 4: Gravitational forces. This one is a subtle argument, and I don’t expect it to sway many people, but it is a strong one for me. I think it’s easier to cut a true vertical line than it is to cut a true line at an angle. This is because of the way gravity tugs at the heavy back of the saw. This little detail makes cutting tails-first easier for me. Here’s how:

When you cut any dovetail, the first half of the joint is the pattern for the second. So your first part doesn’t have to be precise when it comes to its angles. It just needs to be clean and neat. If you cut your tails first, that means your first cuts are angled. If you don’t have to be precise with these cuts, then you have one less thing to worry about with this part of the joint. All you really need to worry about is being straight. The actual angle is incidental. Heck I use a pencil alone to mark out my tails.

When it comes to the second part of the joint, it must be an exact complement of the first. Accuracy counts a great deal. When you cut tails-first, that means your second cut is pins. And pins are straight up and down. And straight up and down is easier to do perfectly. Well, straight is easier is for me at least.

If you reverse the process and cut the pins-first, the second part is making the angled tails. And I think those lines are harder to track because gravity isn’t on your side.

Of course, if you do this stuff every day, all this becomes moot. You just do it the way you do it. And you ignore the gravitational prattling of a magazine editor.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 7/2/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Good books on hand work are hard to find, and after I recommended Robert Wearing's "The Essential Woodworker" in 2007, copies became difficult to find at a reasonable price. I swear I don't have a secret stash of these books I like, though it would be a nifty way to make some cash on the side.

If you cannot get Wearing's excellent book, I have a great alternative: Charles H. Hayward's "Carpentry for Beginners" (Emerson Books). This little jewel slipped under my radar for many years because of the title. Carpentry? Why would I want a book about building a coal hutch?

Well as it turns out, we moderns are a bunch of unskilled dufuses (or should that be that dufi? I forget). What a mid-century Briton considers carpentry is more like what we would consider fine furniture building. (And what we call carpentry must be one notch above flint knives and bear skins, I suppose).

"Carpentry for Beginners" is an excellent book for building basic hand skills. Hayward covers it all, from basic sharpening to flattening a board, mortising, basic dovetailing, half-laps and even case construction. The book is entirely focused on hand work because it is assumed that the home carpenter wouldn't have any machines lurking in the scullery.

What I think is brilliant about the book (and I hope to steal for my own future efforts) is how Hayward first teaches you the basic strokes: sawing, chiseling, boring, planing, marking, testing. Then he shows you how to combine these basic skills into dealing with real-life assemblies. There are entire chapters on "How to Make a Door," "How to Make a Box" and "How to Make a Drawer."

Then these are followed by informative single-page illustrations that walk you through many of the basic joints.

That's the first 109 pages; the rest of the book is a walk through your swinging uncle's house. Hayward shows you how to build swanky item after swanky item for your pad, including a television chair and some Danish un-modern tables. You can probably skip these chapters, except for the section on building a tool chest and workbench trestles.

Where do I find out-of-print books such as this? Try:

bookfinder.com

abebooks.com

alibris.com

powells.com  

Now I'm off to troll these sites to buy up 100 copies of Graham Blackburn's old books for next week's blog entry.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. Click here to read about other books I've recommended.



Posted 6/30/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

One of the best recommendations I’ve ever received in the world of hand tools came from a power-tool user who has 660-volt three-phase pumping through his veins.

It’s 1996, and I’m a newly minted managing editor at Popular Woodworking. David Thiel, then an associate editor at the magazine, has been assigned to give me a tour of the workshop and check me out on the machines.

I’ve been woodworking on my back porch seriously for a few years and am comfortable on a table saw, radial-arm saw and a band saw, but I’ve never seen a drum sander, spray booth or shaper. I know I came off like a hayseed because I was dumbfounded by the sheer volume of cast iron and steel now at my disposal.

At the end of the tour, David showed me his work area and made a generous offer: Until I got set up in the shop I could use any of the hand tools hanging in his tool cabinets above his bench.

Several weeks later I’m in the shop building my first serious project for the magazine (an Arts & Crafts project from the Byrdcliffe Colony) and I need a combination square to mark out some joinery before I cut it on the table saw. I snatch one of the squares above his bench and go to work.

That was a Friday afternoon. I remember that because I was compelled to drive up to our local tool supplier Saturday morning to buy my own L.S. Starrett 12" combination square. I didn’t care what the price was. I didn’t care how far I had to drive across town with a squealing 1-year-old in the back seat to get it. I just knew that after an afternoon of working with David’s square that I had to have one for myself.

After a few more weeks I bought a 6" version for $25 at a local antiques market.

During the last 12 years, I’ve had a variety of marking and measuring tools try to shake that Starrett from my toolbox. The magazine’s staff tested all the squares on the market in the late 1990s and somehow the General version ended up on my bench. It’s a nice square, and on the outside would appear to be every bit as good as the Starrett, but something is missing. The blade in the Starrett just moves a bit more sweetly and the engraved markings are just a bit crisper.

As I got more into traditional hand work, I considered trading in my Starrett for a traditional try square (perhaps a wooden one). After all, combination squares were built originally for machinists, not woodworkers. But after dabbling with the old-Testament gear, I fled back into the arms of Starrett. It’s just too darn perfect and useful.

I keep the 6" version tucked into my shop apron and use it for laying out and measuring joinery. The 12" one hangs above my bench and comes into play any time I need to keep two measurements locked in (which is typical) or the joinery is beyond the range of the 6" tool.

It’s almost impossible to overstate my affection for this tool. If I had a family crest, I’d put it on there. If I’m buried with one tool, this will probably be the one I ask my wife to tuck into the pocket of my last suit.

But I probably won’t want to be buried with this square. Instead, I plan to hang it on the wall of my shop in plain view in the hopes that one of my children will pick the thing up when they need a tool for a quick measurement. Perhaps the same bolt of lightning will strike them.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 6/25/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Boring
Bookmark and Share

Today I'm abandoning a prototype design I've been working on this week between bouts of tending our gerund farm. I'd like to have a Viking funeral for this little end table, but I'm sure the fire inspector would scowl.

Despite the failed design, the experience hasn't been a total loss. While Senior Editor Robert W. Lang wasn't looking, I snitched his Bosch I-Driver, which I've been using all week. You see, I'm in the market for a new cordless drill. My 12-volt tools are more than five years old and feel like they weigh a ton compared to the newest generation of tools.

The I-Driver, what Bosch calls the PS10-2, is just about everything I want in a cordless tool. Where to start? The sucker is built like a tank. Everything is tightly constructed on this tool; many low-priced drills feel like they are going to fall apart on you (and we've had several flame out on us over the years as well).

Second: I love the pivoting head. The chuck pivots 90°, which allows you to get into places that no other drill will go. The low-profile chuck also aids in making this the sneakiest drill I've ever used. The chuck accepts ¼" hex-shank tooling, which some will see as a downside, but I consider it a minor inconvenience for the low profile.

What else? The tool goes and goes. Yes, it's only 10.8 volts, but it took me a long time to drain the battery – and these batteries are a couple years old and have lots of cycles on them. Other plusses: It has a fine clutch (not all right-angle dills do, which is stupid). Plus, the oversized trigger allows you to use two fingers, so your control of the speed is greatly enhanced.

I think I've found my next drill. Sure, it's not going to easily spin 1/16" twist bits, but that's what I have my Millers Falls eggbeater drill for, right?

And now to see if we have any gasoline in the shop. I have a prototype to deal with.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 6/19/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Lately I've been planing stuff that has been a lot nastier than your typical run-of-the-mill cherry, oak and walnut. First Senior Editor Glen D. Huey tried to torture me by bringing in some curly maple for the blanket chest on cover the Summer 2008 issue.

Then I built the cover project for the Fall 2008 issue from some walnut that should have been on the burn pile. Honestly, I had to go through about twice as much material as usual to find enough wood to build this 18th-century wall cabinet.

Then, this weekend I had to plane some rowy mahogany while teaching at Kelly Mehler's School of Woodworking. Kelly had prepared mahogany pieces for the project that the students built (a Shaker utensil tray). And a lot of that was rowy – which is when the wood has rope-like bands of grain through it where the grain reverses in each rope.

The tool that has kept me away from the wide belt sander these last few months has been my little Wayne Anderson smoothing plane. I've had this tool for more than two years now and have published an article on its long-term performance in the most recent edition of Popular Woodworking, the August 2008 issue.

Below is the text of that article, plus a link to download a pdf slideshow presentation that shows the evolution of this form of plane using pictures supplied by Wayne himself. Enjoy.

Despite the amount of bronze, iron and beech in my tool cabinet, most woodworkers need only three bench planes: A fore plane to reduce the thickness of boards, a jointer plane to flatten them and a smoothing plane to prepare them for finishing.

That’s in a perfect world. In reality, we work with a material (wood) that is unpredictable, cantankerous and vexing – like my first redheaded girlfriend.

During the last few years, I’ve gradually folded a fourth plane into my  arsenal, and now I cannot imagine working without it.

It’s a small smoothing plane with a steeply pitched iron (a 57° angle of attack), no chipbreaker and a mouth aperture that a gnat would have a hard time squeezing through without damaging his Dipteran hinder.

This is my plane of last resort. When my 50°-pitch smoothing plane leaves nasty torn grain in its wake, I pull out this plane. It doesn’t care if there’s a grain reversal in the board. Or if I’m planing against the grain. Or if the grain is interlocked, curly or worse. When set for a fine cut, this plane almost never fails me.

This plane has become a staple of Wayne Anderson, a custom planemaker in Elk River, Minn. (andersonplanes.com or 763-486-0834). This form of plane started out several years ago with Wayne’s interest in high-angle planes without a chipbreaker. He built this version for writer Kerry Pierce to test for a competing magazine. Then I bought the plane from Wayne. (Despite the fact that it was a used tool, I paid full price.)

Since that time, I’ve fallen head-over-heels for the plane, and Wayne has pushed the tool’s design in new directions for other customers. If you’re not familiar with Wayne’s work, he’s a bit different than other custom makers. He seldom makes the same tool twice.

The profile on the rear of the iron might change. Or the shape of the sidewall or lever cap will morph. But the tool still looks like itself – like a fraternal twin.

As to the function of the tool, you could set up a 6"-long block plane to do the exact same job, but there’s no way the tool will look as good or fit your hand so well.

With this small smoothing plane, the coffin shape of the body lets you squeeze the tool right in the middle by its mouth. And having mastered the tool, I find I can change the depth of cut merely by squeezing and pressing at the center of the tool, or by releasing that pressure. The weight of the plane (2 lbs. 2 oz.) keeps the tool in the cut without chattering (try that with your block plane) even when I use little-girl pressure to control it. The result: Thin shavings; no tearing.

The rear bun is rounded nicely so it feels good against my right palm, and the tall iron keeps my hand right where it should be.

The short sole (about 5-1/2") allows you to plane in areas that longer smoothing planes can’t get to. When I say this I don’t mean tight little spaces inside a cabinet, I mean the small and large hollows that occur on any flat board. A small tool rides the gentle waves of a board where a longer plane skims off the peaks instead. And when you’re trying to get a tabletop looking right (perfect flatness be darned) a short plane is invaluable.

If you’re thinking of investing in one custom plane, this plane would be an excellent addition to any standard lineup. These tools start at $825. Need more convincing? Wayne has provided a slide show of the different forms of this plane during the last few years that you can download below. I’ll warn you, however, it’s dangerous to watch.

WAminis-1.pdf (2.16 MB)

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 6/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

What I dislike most about the Summer 2008 issue is the fact that I didn't get to build the Sea Chest that Glen D. Huey constructed. I had designed the entire issue around me getting to build the thing. Then we ran out of time. Or, put more correctly, I had to choose between building and occasionally chewing my food.

So Glen built the Sea Chest and did great job (grumble). During construction, he had to bend the hinges on the sucker to fit the canted sides. We promised a short tutorial on the process and here it is, with photos.

And by the way, the story has a happy ending (for me). I ended up with the Sea Chest gracing my living room as a coffee table. And I experienced some evenings of fine digestion. Win-win!

Manipulating hinges for the sea chest is extremely easy. To begin, use a combination square or small square to strike a line across the back face of the hinge leaf that fits to the chest. The line should be at 3/4” off the barrel (or equal the thickness of your chest back).

Place the scribed hinge leaf into a vise leaving the line about a 1/16” above the jaws. This compensates for rounding the metal as you bend the leaf. Then, grab a stout hammer and relieve your frustrations by pounding over the leaf. Be sure to make the bend toward you or so the barrel is folded away from you as you finish shaping the bend. Keep a hand pulling on the opposite leaf to help bend the leaf (the metal is not that rigid). Keep in mind hitting that hand with a hammer is not much fun, so slide back the leaf a bit.

That leaves the leaf at something near 90º. Due to the cant of the front and back of the chest, it’s necessary to continue the bend a few degrees more. To complete the bending, remove the hinge from the vise, hold the hinge against the vise and add a couple firm hits with my hammer. That should bring the hinge to a match with the chest.

— Christopher Schwarz (with captions by Glen D. Huey)


Posted 6/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Anyone who builds furniture while in a wheelchair is up against serious challenges. Not only are the machines and workbenches too high off the floor, getting the wheelchair close enough to the workbench to actually work is a serious problem.

All the workbenches I built for "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use," are unsuitable for the wheelchair user. The bench's bases won't let a wheelchair user get anywhere near the working surface.

Several wheelchair users have approached me about designing a bench for wheelchair users, but I wasn't sure where to begin. Sjoberg makes this version that is adjustable in height, which is very similar to Jeff Noden's Adjust-a-bench – at least in basic form.

Reader Larry Arnold, a wheelchair user, designed and built this workbench, which is quite stout, passes my kitchen door test and is handsome to boot. Here are some of the statistics:

The base is made using ¼" steel tubing. The legs are 3" square; the other steel rails are 2" x 3". The base weighs 106 lbs.

The top is 2-1/4" thick, 24" wide and 66" long. The top is 29" off the floor and made from Douglas fir. Both the vises are Lee Valley face vises, which Arnold said he chose because they have a low profile under the bench, allowing him clearance to roll under there.

He also has a deadman he bolts to the top, which will allow him to clamp long boards, doors and the like.

"I built it all myself with no help, except for the top which I took to a cabinet shop to run through their wide belt sander," he says. "I have full access under the bench with no restrictions except for the vertical legs. It's going to be so much better than what I have been using, wish I would have built one sooner. I know it's not what you would build for yourself,  but for me in my situation I can't think of much I could add to make it work better for me."

And here's the best news about the bench: Arnold is going to put it into service to build two Shaker-style tables from Issue 2.

Congratulations to Arnold on his new bench.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 6/6/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Required Reading
Bookmark and Share

Most of you know how much I like Andre Roubo's "L'Art du Menuisier" – probably the best and most complete books on woodworking from the 18th century. Heck, I've even considered taking up my French studies again just to be able to read it (more on that later).

However, getting copies of Roubo in this country has been nothing less than frustrating. I got a couple modern reprints through a bookstore in Quebec. And several French web sites carry them (with ghastly hoops to jump through to get them into this country). And all of my efforts to get a reliable and reasonable source in North America have proved fruitless.

Until today.

Thanks entirely to Joel Moskowitz at Tools for Working Wood, reprints of all five volumes of Roubo are now available for sale. These books are immense fun to page through, even if you don't read French. That's because the plates – hundreds and hundreds of glorious line drawings – will teach you more about furniture, marquetry and hand tools than I can. Plus you likely will be inspired to build one of Roubo's benches once you see them in use throughout the book. That's what sold me.

The volumes sell for $70 to $90, which sounds like a lot, but it's worth it. When I was importing these from Canada, that's about what I ended up paying (maybe a bit more once you included international fees). These books will be with you forever, and who knows how long they'll be available.

The other news is that we have some more exciting news about Roubo that we'll be announcing on my personal blog this weekend, LostArtPress.com. This is a personal project that I and another woodworker have been slaving over for a while. So do drop by LostArtPress.com this weekend and check it out. I think you'll be glad you did.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 6/5/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

Last week I bought a toothing plane from a Midwestern tool collector. I've always wanted one of these tools, and this one is particularly nice.

Toothing planes are lot like scraping planes: The iron is vertical. What's different is that toothing plane has a serrated cutting edge – instead of a smooth edge with a tiny hook, like on a scraper plane.

Toothing planes can be used in a couple different ways. Some people use them to flatten a board's surface. The vertical pitch of the iron prevents tearing in gnarly woods, and the serrated teeth allow you to take a fairly big bite.

Other craftsmen use a toothing plane for traditional veneering jobs with hide glue. The toothing plane would prepare the substrate – flattening it and giving it some "tooth" – before you apply the adhesive and the veneer.

I'll probably use this tool for both of these sorts of jobs – they're handy and simple tools. This one was probably made by the craftsman, and the maker was likely German. The "horn" at the toe is a feature of many European planes.

Oh, there's one other feature of the plane I like:

I wish I had a good story about the origin of this tool, but I don't. The tool collector who bought it acquired it during a tool swap meet. So there's no cool history to share – just the mystery of me wondering what sort of work the other "C SCHWARZ" did.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 6/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Todd Austman of Calgary, Alberta, won the miter plane from Philly Planes in our "Quote of the Year" contest for this little jewel:

"I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it."
— Vincent Van Gogh

We had hundreds of entries, which we narrowed down to about 75 of the best quotes that we plan to use in the coming year. (When we use your quote, we'll notify you and send you our latest hardbound book. It might take a bit of time for your quote to come up, so please be patient.)

There were a couple other quotes that came very close to snatching the top honors. Here are a few of them for your enjoyment:

"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment."  
— an aviation saying often attributed to Will Rogers

"The more complex the mind, the greater the need for simplicity of play."
— James T. Kirk

"Ya it’s short — but only on one end."
— Anon


Thanks to all of you who entered the contest. Your contributions, suggestions and scoldings are what make it a better magazine and inspire us to make each issue better than the last.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 6/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Personal Favorites
Bookmark and Share

When we started Woodworking Magazine, one of the things we definitely wanted to include as part of the fabric of the publication were quotations about the craft that made us laugh or think.

And when we launched our first issue in March 2004, there was no doubt or discussion about what quote would be emblazoned at the top of the first page:

“By all means read what the experts have to say.
Just don’t let it get in the way of your woodworking.”
— John Brown, welsh stick chairmaker

Brown, who died June 1, is in my estimation the most influential writer on handwork of this generation. His columns in Britain’s Good Woodworking magazine inspired thousands of woodworkers to attempt or even completely embrace handwork.

His columns were short epistles on topics philosophical, mundane or both. He might offer a recipe for bacon in one column, offer plans for a workbench in another and in a third comment on the sad state of woodworking where we have traded skill for speed.

Brown was at times crotchety in tone, other times apologetic (to turners in particular); but he was always the spokesman for anyone who wanted to take hammer in hand and try to build something – either fantastic or mundane – using hand tools.

Brown himself was a boatbuilder who was made obsolete by fiberglass watercraft. After spotting a primitive Welsh chair in a shop in Lampeter, as Brown put it: “It was like a vision. I had never seen anything that had made so instant an impression on me.”

And so he built a Welsh stick chair like the one from his vision. He began selling them. He began writing about them. “Welsh Stick Chairs” was published in 1990. It’s a short volume, but is one of my prize possessions. In it, Brown gives a concise history of the Celts and their furniture. Then a short history of his love for the craft. The remainder of the book is photos of Brown in action, building what he calls a “cardigan chair.”

I first encountered his column in Good Woodworking in the mid-1990s. Brown had begun writing for the magazine during issue 13, I believe, which was the November 1993 issue. It was called “The John Brown Column,” and discussed mostly chairmaking, but with all hand tools. His run of columns there ended 32 issues later with a condemnation of power machinery in June 1996.

After a year of respite, Brown returned to the pages of Good Woodworking in issue 58 and continued for a couple more years. The last column I have of his is from December 1998. He continued as a chairmaker for awhile but during the last decade, Brown turned his attention to studying art.

"The John Brown Column" – sometimes titled "The Anarchist Woodworker" – was so inspiring to me, it’s difficult to quantify. I think it’s best said that if I had to have only one hero in woodworking, it would be Chairman Brown.

Not only did his writing encourage my hand-work skills, he also inspired me as a chairmaker to the point where I even ventured into the Canadian wilderness to take a class in Welsh chairmaking from David Fleming, a Cobden, Ontario, chairmaker who is Welsh.

All this detail above might make me sounds a bit like a stalker, but I never met John Brown. It was one of my primary goals for the coming years, which I can now bitterly cross off my to-do list. My plan was to ask if we could reprint his columns in book form so they could receive the wide audience they deserve. That project might be in limbo now, but perhaps his heirs will be willing.

If you can get a copy of “Welsh Stick Chairs,” you certainly will get the flavor of his writing and wit. And if I have any luck, perhaps you’ll also get to read his columns and then understand the loss the world of handwork has suffered this week.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/29/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Finishing
Bookmark and Share

Sometime back in 1996 I took a piece of cloth that was cast off from my wardrobe. I cannot remember what the garment was. A sweatshirt perhaps? Long underwear? It’s a bit stretchy. And I soaked the sucker in WD-40.

Since that day, I have soaked that rag with every kind of oily substance you can imagine. Here’s the short lubricant list: Camellia, 3-in-1, Jojoba, mineral spirits, thread-cutting oil, spray-on “dry” shop lubricant and oil from various recesses of my personhood (yes, it’s true, and historically correct. Ask me over a beer sometime).

I use this rag to wipe down every tool after I use it. I lubricate my plane soles with it while working. I use it to wipe off the sharpening slurry from my tools after honing them.

And what I’m about to say will upset people who know anything about chemistry: I have never suffered any ill effects from this nefarious mixture when finishing my projects using any of the known finishing compounds: shellac, lacquer, oil, varnish, wax and all of their wacky combinations. No fish-eye has ever appeared in my finish. No orange peel. No silicone contamination.

So what gives? How have I cheated the finishing gods for 12 full years?

Probably because of the cutting action of all tools. When I wipe down a tool – a sawblade or a handplane – I leave the thinnest coat possible behind. This thin film is all I need to protect the tool from rusting. Then, when I apply the tool to the work, there is little doubt that some of this lubricant winds up on my work.

This first cut removes the lubricant from the tool. Then my next pass with the tool removes the wood that has the lubricant on it. Problem solved.

In addition to my magic rag (Lucy, my wife, calls it my “woobie”), I also am very fond of the Sandflex blocks from Klingspor to remove rare and errant spots of rust or staining that show up on my tools. These spongy “rust erasers” are like rubber that has been impregnated by a mild abrasive. The blocks will abrade your tools, but only slightly – in most cases less than steel wool. One block (I like the “medium” and “fine”) will last for decades of normal use.

As a result, I have had few problems with rust on my tools, despite the fact that I live outside a humid river city (Cincinnati) and my home shop is in a basement.

The bottom line is that diligence is far more important than the brand of lubricant.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. Below is my latest project with a shellac and lacquer finish with no finishing problems. Maybe next project....


Posted 5/24/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

When I first opened the package, I assumed that the tool inside was a prototype that had a plastic blade. That happens occasionally here at the magazine when a manufacturer wants our opinion on a tool’s ergonomics before they crank up production.

But no, the white chunk of stuff at the end of the Gladstone Tools marking knife actually was the working blade. And this was no prototype.

The spear point of this 8”-long knife is ceramic. Ceramax 80, to be precise, a material you can find in a variety of industrial and home applications, including some kitchen knives.

According to the manufacturer, the knife is second in hardness only to diamond and “will never need sharpening.”

That is quite a claim, and so I immediately put the knife to work today to see how it performed. The ceramic blade is a spear-point shape that is about 1/8” thick. It has the same general shape as the now-discontinued Veritas marking knife we reviewed a few years ago.

The knife’s edges don’t feel as keen as a freshly sharpened steel knife, but the tool does lay down a fine line with little effort. It also offers the same feedback to the user as a steel knife as it makes its mark. I thought the Gladstone might feel a bit gummy (like a stainless tool), but perhaps I was just getting over the shock that it wasn’t a chunk of white plastic.

The handle that was shipped to me is not the same shape as shown on the Gladstone Tools web site. This knife has two pronounced flats that prevent the tool from rolling on the bench (always nice) and has a thin neck for your middle finger while marking joints.

The padouk handle (it’s also available in zebrawood) is well finished. It’s not as nicely turned and finished as the Blue Spruce knives, but it is nicer than most manufactured knives I’ve used. The price is $29.95 for the padouk and $31.95 for the zebrawood – those are fair prices for a nice piece of work like this.

Will the edge hold up? I sure hope so. Gladstone Tools is run by a man that many of us simply know as “Manny,” who runs Manny’s Woodworkers Place in Lexington, Ky. When I was first taking woodworking classes, I and my fellow students would hang out at Manny’s place and drool over the amazing selection of books (still the best, even today) and hand tools. Manny was always patient with us as we would fondle the Japanese chisels but purchase a small set of brad points.

Though Manny carried a few machines and power tools, the majority of his inventory has always been hand tools, including many hard-to-find things. When I first started woodworking seriously, it was Manny’s place that made a huge impression on me. I thought all furniture making used both hand and power tools. (A rude awakening was to follow.)

If you purchase this knife, add a comment below after you use it for a while and let me know how it held up. I’ll use it exclusively for a while and report back as well.

If Manny has come up with a way to ensure that I have one less tool to sharpen, that’s a pretty amazing accomplishment.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 5/20/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Learning to cut woodworking joints is one thing. Figuring out how to assemble all those joints in a correct and efficient order for a project is another skill entirely.

In the upcoming Fall 2008 issue of Woodworking Magazine, we're delving deep into the topic of cabinet construction. And the method we have developed during the last decade is different than any other you have read, but it will do three things for your woodworking:

1. You'll make fewer mistakes and waste less wood.

2. You'll have an easier time fitting your doors and drawers.

3. Your cabinets will go together faster with tighter joints.

If you'd like to learn about our new method, then I encourage you to subscribe to the magazine by May 30 to guarantee you will receive a copy of the Fall 2008 issue. In addition to our research into cabinet construction, you'll also find:

Fitting Doors & Drawers: We show you how to square up doors with a table saw and fit it precisely with a hand plane. Plus, we explain how to size your drawers so they'll fit properly with only minor adjustments with a plane.

Tool Review – Sliding Bevels: Why do so many of them slip and slide around on you? We investigate the major brands available today and find the best ones.

Coloring Walnut: Walnut with a simple clear finish looks cold and lifeless.
We show you how to warm up this beautiful wood with a variety of approaches, including shellac and stains.

So why should you subscribe to Woodworking Magazine? We think it's different than every other magazine out there. It's written to help all woodworkers fill in the inevitable gaps in our skills that result from teaching ourselves woodworking.

We show you the historical, time-tested and frequently forgotten methods to saw any joint, drawboring, wedged through-tenons and splines. We review tools that other magazines won't touch but are extremely important: like 6" rules, screws, combination squares and moisture meters.

Plus, we offer projects you won't elsewhere. We build only time-tested forms in classic styles, such as Arts & Crafts, Shaker and early American. More importantly, we pick projects that can be built without an enormous outlay of time, wood or tools.

And that's not all that's different. Woodworking Magazine has no advertisements and is printed in glorious sepia-toned black-and-white on its inside pages.

If you're ready to subscribe, we're ready to take your order. Click here and we'll sign you up to receive the next issue.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/17/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Between bites of salad, Kevin Drake pauses to take a close look at the common chair sitting in our local Panera.
 
When I look at the chair, all I see is your typical bent-lamination, factory-made, comfortable-for-about-32-minutes padded chair.
 
But Kevin, the founder of Glen-Drake Toolworks, sees a lesson in Japanese aesthetics and composition by Japanese arts teacher Shozo Sato. What is the dominant focus for the viewer? What is the sub-dominant; the subordinate?

I was chewing my food at the beginning of the explanation, but by the end I was listening so intently that I forgot about the baguette soaking in my own mouth juices as I finally "saw" the chair.

Nothing makes me happier than to have lunch with someone whose brain is on fire with ideas different than mine. Someone who sees the same world with different eyes.

Which brings us to handsaws.

It's a common thing to read in woodworking texts that the ripping teeth in a Western saw (power- or hand-driven) are shaped like chisels. And that crosscutting teeth are shaped like knives.

But when Kevin sees sawteeth, he sees something different. He sees the function of the teeth relating more to its "rake," which is how forward or backwards each sawtooth leans. On a handsaw, teeth with the cutting face straight up have "zero rake." Teeth that lean forward into the cut have a more aggressive rake. And teeth that lean backward have a relaxed rake. (Whether the rake is "postive" or "negative" depends on whether it's a power tool or hand tool user describing it.)
 
To Kevin, Western ripping teeth don't look like chisels; they look like scrapers. Scrapers attack the work in an almost vertical position – like a zero-rake sawtooth. I can see this (see the photo at the top of this entry of a wooden model of Western sawteeth).
 
And to Kevin, it's the Japanese-style sawteeth (shown above right) that look like chisels. They lean forward like a chisel being used for paring. And I can see this, too.
 
So Kevin then asks three questions:
 
1. What type of wood scrapes better, hardwoods or softwoods? Easy. The harder the wood, the easier it scrapes.
 
2. In general, which woods are harder, Japanese woods or Western woods? Again, it's an easy question. Western woods are harder.
 
3. When you scrape a wood, is it easier to push the tool or pull it? You can do it both ways, but I definitely prefer to push the tool.
 
"That," Kevin says, "is why I prefer Western push-style saws."
 
That statement was like a Zen Buddhist riddle (called a koan) for me. Thanks Kevin. Now I'll never look at my saws (or the Panera chairs) in the same way ever again.
 
— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. This coming week (May 19 to 23) I'll be teaching at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking, so there won't be many (if any) updates to the blog. Enjoy your vacation!


Posted 5/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

You can now download an enhanced pdf of the March 2008 issue of Woodworking Magazine (Issue 9) for $6.

Our instant digital downloads are compatible with any computer running Adobe Reader 7.0, a free program available from Adobe that runs on Macintosh, PC and other systems. The downloads are delivered to you on a secure and fast server (a high-speed Internet connection is highly recommended). Plus, if for some technical reason your download is interrupted (power outage due to nefarious squirrel activity etc.), it’s quite simple to get back on and download the issue again.

Issue 9 focuses on the act of handsawing, and it explores the three backsaws you need for hand-cut joints – the dovetail saw, carcase saw and tenon saw. Plus we explain the nearly-lost English system of cutting joints by hand.

We also delve into cutting circles with a simple (and very cool) jig, plus how to properly use glaze when finishing. All these skills will help you build the Stickley Tabouret featured on the cover.

On an administrative note, we’re still working on how to deliver subscriptions digitally to subscribers and have narrowed it to a couple options. More news on that to come this summer. Until then, these enhanced pdfs will (we hope) keep you informed and inspired.

For more details on the digital downloading process and to place an order, click here. You can view all our digital downloadable products here.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/8/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

Thanks to my job and the freelance work I do for The Fine Tool Journal, I get to see a lot of specialty handplanes that most people see only in the catalogs or in one of the lusty tomes by The Sandor.

But despite getting to actually use a corebox plane and dozens of other unusual and cool forms, I tend to stick with the basics when I build. I use the jointer plane more than any other bench plane, followed by the smoothing plane and block plane. A few other specialty tools – router planes, a moving fillister and a plow plane – round out my personal set.

One plane I’ve never quite made nice with is the Stanley No. 95, the edge-trimming block plane. This tool is now made by both Veritas and Lie-Nielsen Toolworks in iron or bronze. And though the two brands have some significant differences, the basic form is the same.

The No. 95 is a block plane with a skewed blade and an integral and fixed 90° fence. The idea is that you press the fence against the face of your work and the tool planes the adjacent edge perfectly square to the face.

I’ve never been fond of the tool – I tend to use my jointer plane to dress edges square to the faces. But during the last few projects I’ve built I’ve found the tool in my hand a surprising number of times. I’ve been using it to plane solid-wood edging square and flush to plywood. I’ve been trimming face frames flush to carcases. And I’ve been dressing rails and stiles of doors and face frames before assembly.

That last task finally convinced me that the tool is a gem for a shop that blends power and hand tools. Here’s why: When I dress stock by hand, all the edges of my rails and stiles end up planed square from the jointer plane. So the No. 95 sits idle.

But when I dress my rails and stiles with a powered jointer (as I’m doing this week), the edge-trimming plane shines. The goal there is to remove the toolmarks, to keep the edges perfectly square and to not remove a lot of material. The No. 95 accomplishes all three goals with aplomb. Typically one or two light passes is all it takes to get crisp inside and outside edges on the parts for a frame-and-panel construction.

Here are a few tips for use: First, the set-up is key. The iron has to project evenly from the mouth or your edge won’t be square. Take some test passes and examine the shavings. Their thickness should be the same on both long edges. Shift the iron around until the tool makes a consistent shaving and a square edge.

Second, press down on the toe of the tool with more force than you would use with a block plane. The plane tends to want to rise out of the cut in softer woods. Also, use one hand to press the tool’s fence against the work and use the other hand to press the work against the fence on the opposite side. All this pressure ensures your cut won’t go astray, which can be trouble.

Now, despite my crush on this tool, I haven’t been able to justify getting both a left- and right-hand version, however. Because my stock is dressed with a planer, it’s true on both faces, so I can work with the No. 95’s fence on either face of the stock without worrying about grain direction. The tool can be pushed or pulled with ease.

Now if I could just find the same love for my chisel plane/paperweight I wouldn’t feel so guilty every time I open a certain drawer in my toolbox.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Now that we’re publishing Woodworking Magazine four times a year (you can always subscribe via this link), we have an even greater demand for quotations related to woodworking, craft or (on occasion) even artistic expression.

We ran a contest last year to solicit quotations (with great success), and I’d like to run it again to deepen our well of material in reserve. If your quote is picked as the best of all the entries by our editorial staff, we’ll send you a miter plane from Philly Planes. (You can read a review of the plane here, but trust me, it’s an awesome piece of kit).

All the runners-up in this contest (meaning that we publish your quote in the magazine) will receive the hardbound edition of Issues 8 through 12, which will be released at the end of 2008.

Here are the rules:

1. Contest ends on midnight on Friday, May 16, 2008.
2. One entry and one quotation per person.
3. Your entry must be submitted via e-mail to chris.schwarz@fwpubs.com, along with your full name, street address, phone number and valid e-mail.
4. The quotation can be from any source (even yourself). However, it needs to be attributed – where you found it and who said it. Here’s an example: "It's not just about making beautiful furniture, but how do you get rid of it?" — Tage Frid, quoted in an article by Jonathan Binzen in Fine Woodworking.


Here are some tips: Short quotes are better than long quotes. Original or unusual quotes are better than common ones (“Measure twice, cut once.”). Quotes that are funny, make you think or challenge conventional wisdom are always appreciated.

Good luck, and thanks in advance for entering.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 5/1/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

As woodworkers dive into handwork, they usually start with a block plane, then the bench planes, the saws and the joinery planes.

Joinery planes – such as plow planes, router planes, shoulder planes and rabbeting planes – are some of the easiest planes to set up and use. Their irons are straighforward to sharpen (no curves needed), and because the tool doesn’t produce a show surface, you don’t need to be a maniac about the keenness of your cutting edges.

One of the most essential joinery planes is the moving fillister. It cuts a rabbet either across the grain or with the grain. And it can make a rabbet of almost any size thanks to its adjustable fence.

Moving fillisters are different than other planes in the rabbeting family in that its fence is adjustable (planes with a fixed fence are called standing fillisters), plus it can work across the grain because it has retractable nickers (planes without the nickers are just plain old rabbet planes).

The iron Stanley No. 78 is the most common vintage version of this tool, however I’m not fond of the form. The fence wobbles because of the way it is attached to the body, so the plane does a poor job in hard woods (in my experience). Record, by the way, fixed this problem with its metal version of this plane, though it’s a tough tool to find in North America.

This really is a case where the wooden versions of a plane are superior. Wooden-stock moving fillisters are fairly common in the secondary market, though they usually require some rehabbing to be usable. So what do you do?

You could ask Clark & Williams to make you one – they showed me an excellent moving fillister they make a couple years ago. You could buy an ECE from toolsforworkingwood.com. Or you could buy a new traditional one from Philip Edwards at Philly Planes in England.

Philip’s planes are excellent. I recently reviewed his miter plane plus a plane designed for raising panels for drawer bottoms. They both work like a charm. So it’s very exciting to me (and a good sign for hand work in general) that there is a new moving fillister on the market from Philip’s shop.

We’ve ordered one for our shop here, and I will offer a full report once it arrives. Until then, however, if you need a moving fillister, I can recommend Philip’s planes highly.  

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. Want to learn more about joinery planes? Then definitely pick up a copy of “The Wooden Plane” by John M. Whelan.


Posted 4/30/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

After three more hours of CAD work last night, I finished up the preliminary drawings for the next cover project for Woodworking Magazine. We're calling this project "An American Wall Cabinet." But right now a more apt name would be "An R-5 Wall Cabinet."

This morning I spent about 45 minutes building the face frame, tombstone door and drawer front of the cabinet using the pink ½"-thick Foamular insulation board. I taped up the joints with packing tape. Then I printed out the hardware from the Horton Brasses web site, cut it out (Horton scaled it full-size!) and taped it in place.

If you ever wonder how woodworking magazines get away with coverlines like "Build a Bench in a Weekend," this is it. It's our trade secret. We just build it out of Foamular.

After a dry-fit of all the parts (no tape), I determined that the mediary rail in the door was too wide. So I shaved off ½" with a ruler and a knife and it looked much better. Then Senior Editor Glen Huey and I placed the rattail hinges on the stiles so they would work well and look good.

This short exercise also drove me to plan on adding some stopped chamfers on the stiles of the face frame when I build it out of walnut. So all in all, it was worth the $10.

If you've never worked with Foamular, it's a cinch to cut with a knife and a ruler. I used my Tite-Mark gauge to first score the foam's plastic film. Then I followed up with the knife. To make the curve in the tombstone door, I drew it with a compass. The pencil lead didn't cut the foam; it made a furrow in the film. Then my knife could easily follow that furrow to complete the cut.

And what are we going to do with the leftover foam? Easy. I use it for slicing up plywood with a circular saw. I lay the foam down on the driveway, put the plywood on top, and set the sawblade to cut through the plywood and slightly into the foam (and not the concrete). Works every time.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/30/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

So today I get a copy of the WoodWorker's Book Club bulletin and it lists the "Top 50 Member Favorites." I eagerly flipped through to see if my book on workbenches made the list.

It did. It was No. 30.

I was quite pleased by this bit of news. It was good to be on the same list as Taunton's "Complete Illustrated Guides" (at No. 1), Kerry Pierce's "Pleasant Hill Shaker Furniture" (No. 2) and Jim Tolpin's "Measure Twice, Cut Once" (No. 3, and one of my favorite woodworking books).

But my moment of glee was quickly flung into the dirty litterbox when I saw what aced me out at No 28: "Black & Decker's 24 Weekend Projects for Pets."  

That put my tail between my legs. Time to go home and start writing that birdhouse book I've had on the back burner.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/29/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

When a young Thomas Lie-Nielsen set out to start making premium handplanes in the early 1980s, he launched his business with an adaptation of the Stanley No. 95 edge-trimming plane.

But Lie-Nielsen wasn't the first person to make this tool in bronze. That footnote goes to machinist Ken Wisner, who made the planes in small batches and sold them through the Garrett Wade catalog. When Wisner decided to get out of that business, he turned over his patterns to Lie-Nielsen, who took them to Maine and set up shop in a shack on his farm.

I've always wanted to own one of these Wisner planes – partly out of curiosity and partly out of my desire to own a piece of recent history. But they're hard to come by. And they're expensive when they do come up on eBay.

So this weekend, I got a little schoolgirl thrill when Jeff Skiver pulled a Wisner out of his bags of tools during a class on handplanes at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking. He wasn't looking to sell it, and I won't tell you what he paid for it. Suffice it to say that Skiver practically stole it from a starving widow who had substantial medical bills.

The Wisner is an interesting piece of work. On the one hand, the main casting was nicely polished and the machined areas were crisp and clean. But the thumbscrew on the lever cap was black plastic (the screw itself was metal, however). And the main screw that joined the lever cap, iron and body casting was an off-the-shelf hex-head screw.

Wisner signed his name on the plane with some sort of rotary tool (perhaps a Dremel). And the blade was thinner than the Lie-Nielsen version.

Of course, when you are blazing a trail like Wisner was, you have to overlook details like this and appreciate the sheer fact that this plane exists. Plus, look at what this little plane led to in Warren, Me.

And if anyone has a Wisner plane they'd like to part with (for the sake of history, natch) please drop me a line.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 4/28/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

This fall, our magazine is sponsoring the first-ever weekend conference devoted to hand tools and learning to use them.

We're calling it the Woodworking in America conference, and we'll be bringing together the country's best hand-tool woodworkers and manufacturers for a symposium in Berea, Ky., on Nov. 14-16.

There will be more than 40 short classes on tools and techniques during the long weekend, plus a marketplace where toolmakers can display (and sell) their wares, social events with the demonstrators and toolmakers and more.

So who is going to be there? Here's the list of people who have agreed to teach seminars during Woodworking in America as of this date (with more to come):

Roy Underhill: Known as "St. Roy" to the legion of fans who watch "The Woodwright's Shop" on PBS, Roy worked at Colonial Williamsburg and then launched his show about traditional hand tools.

Frank Klausz: One of the country's consummate craftsmen, Frank is a professional New Jersey cabinetmaker who trained in Hungary and has a lifetime of experience with the full range of handwork.

Michael Dunbar:
Founder of The Windsor Institute, Michael has single handedly revived the craft of building Windsor chairs, has trained thousands of woodworkers and is a passionate student of the art and history of handcraft.

Adam Cherubini:
The author of Popular Woodworking's popular "Arts & Mysteries" column, Adam is a devoted 18th-century woodworker who builds period pieces using period tools.

James Blauvelt: A Connecticut cabinetmaker, joiner and carpenter, James owns Bluefield Joiners and is a student and teacher of Japanese tools and traditions.

Robin Lee: The president of Lee Valley Tools in Ottawa, Ontario, Robin has been a driving force behind the expansion of the Veritas line of premium handplanes and a caretaker of the company's immense tool collection.

Thomas Lie-Nielsen:
The founder of Lie-Nielsen Toolworks in Warren, Me., Thomas has been making and selling premium traditional hand tools for 27 years. Thomas's company was the trailblazer in reviving many traditional forms of tools that had been lost.

Larry Williams and Don McConnell: Two of the principals behind Clark & Williams in Eureka Springs, Ark., Larry and Don are bottomless wells of information about traditional tools and their workings. Both are accomplished woodworkers, planemakers and tool historians.

John Economaki:
The founder of Bridge City Tool Works in Portland, Ore., John has long been a pioneer in developing new (and very beautiful) forms of hand tools for woodworkers.

Konrad Sauer:
The owner of Sauer & Steiner Toolworks in Ontario, Konrad is one of the leading makers of custom infill handplanes.

Wayne Anderson: Wayne specializes in designing and building custom infill handplanes that are deeply rooted in the past but are each a completely original work of art.

Ron Hock: One of the earliest and most important players in the revival of handtools, Ron makes high-quality replacement plane irons, chipbreakers and marking knives in Ft. Bragg, Calif.

Mike Wenzloff: The founder of Wenzloff & Sons sawmakers in Forest Grove, Ore., Mike is a long-time woodworker and expert in saws and saw sharpening. His premium saw business has exploded in the last two years.

Joel Moskowitz: The founder of Tools for Working Wood and an expert on woodworking history, Joel has recently been making many traditional hand tools, as well as selling them through his catalog and web site.

Clarence Blanchard: The publisher of "The Fine Tool Journal" and the president of Brown Auction Services, Clarence sees more old tools in a week than most of us see in a lifetime.

Kevin Drake: After studying under James Krenov at the College of the Redwoods, Kevin founded Glen-Drake Toolworks, where he combines woodworking, toolmaking and education. His innovative tools have received numerous awards; we named his Tite-Mark one of the "Best 12 Tools Ever." 

If you are interested in attending, please visit the web site that is dedicated to this conference at WoodworkinginAmerica.com and sign up for the conference's newsletter (the sign-up box is on the top right of the page). You'll then be the first to be notified of when registration will open (it will be before July 1) and the pricing for this event.

Attendance will be limited to a few hundred people (we want to keep the event intimate and manageable), so be sure to register as soon as slots become available. We are expecting the conference to sell out.

There are more announcements and surprises ahead that I cannot share with you right now, so please stay tuned to the blog and the conference's newsletter.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/24/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery
Bookmark and Share

For me, finger joints have always been the nerdy, square cousin to the dovetail.

Finger joints are immensely strong when glued properly. But they are usually used by beginning woodworkers in places where a dovetail would be more appropriate, such as on a piece of 18th-century casework.

Add to that the fact that finger joints are tricky or dangerous to make on wide boards (without a commercial jig) plus the fact that gluing them with yellow glue is stressful, and it's a wonder that anyone uses them at all.

And so we decided to tackle finger joints for the Summer 2008 issue of Woodworking Magazine, which will be shipping to subscribers next month. It took us a few months to really pin them down (pun intended), but I think we nailed it (and no, cut nails are not involved).

Here's a small taste of some of the problems of the joint we solved after three months of testing in our shop:

Appearance:
Finger joints are a product of the machine age. Using them in styles before circa 1900 is just wrong to the eye. So consider the joint for more contemporary pieces only.

Cutting them Accurately: Right now there are basically two different ways to cut the joint: A shop-made jig for the table saw for narrow boards, and using a router jig that costs several hundred dollars for wide boards. We set out to develop a simple and safe shop-made jig that could handle both wide and narrow boards. Senior Editor Robert W. Lang had a stroke of genius on this and solved the problem forever (in my opinion).

Gluing Them Easily: You can assemble small boxes with finger joints fairly easily when using yellow glue. But at a certain point, you hit the wall because the glue sets up before you can close all the joints. So the solution would seem to be a slow-setting glue. Well, that's one way to go about it. But we found an easier and faster way that is super-strong (see the photo of Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick's boot on a sample joint). In the end, it took an anvil to bust up our sample joints.


Also in the Summer 2008 Issue

The finger joint is just one of the major themes running through the issue. Here are some of the other stories you can look for in the coming issue:

Building a Better Chest: Most woodworkers build chests using the most convoluted and fussy assembly imaginable. After reviewing hundreds of historical models, we settle on a method for building a chest that looks more complex at first glance, but actually saves an immense amount of shop time, requires less fussing around and allows more design flexibility.

Crackle Finishing: Many woodworkers who try a crackle finish have inconsistent results. Sometimes it works; sometimes it doesn't. And predicting how much it's going to crackle is almost impossible. Senior Editor Glen D. Huey cracks the code of crackle finish and finds out that the easiest and most predictable way to do it is also the simplest.

Trimming End Grain: When you have to cut back some end grain so it's flush with some face grain, it's always an opportunity to mess up the project. We show you two (actually three) methods for doing it right every time with a block plane, sander and pencil eraser.

And one more thing about the Summer 2008 issue: This issue is going to be mailed out to subscribers in a protective plastic bag, which will reduce the chances that the postal service will mangle it. If the plastic bag works for you, let us know so we can encourage our manufacturing division to continue using it.

And if you're not a subscriber, you can easily remedy that here.

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 4/22/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

About a decade ago, my boss Steve Shanesy told me something about design that knocked me flat. When he was a struggling custom furniture maker, he took some time off to do something that few people do.

Create a new style of furniture.

That is one of the most ambitious personal projects I could imagine. I wonder if there has there been a new style of furniture created in my lifetime. Does James Krenov’s work constitute a new style? Sam Maloof? George Nakashima? I don’t know the answer to this question, but I do know how one mouth-breather of a woodworker (me) goes about it.

And because I never tire of hearing how other people design pieces, I thought I’d share with you the convoluted path I’m taking this week to make a simple thing for our fall 2008 issue.

I like old furniture – anything from Ancient Egypt to World War II interests me greatly. So when I set out to build something I hit the books to look at as many examples of furniture and decorative objects from that period as I can. In this case, we decided to build an 18th-century wall cabinet for the fall issue, so I cracked open all my books from Wallace Nutting, particularly “A Furniture Treasury.” This out-of-print book is available in many forms and is fairly inexpensive. I paid $20 for my two-volume set at Half-Price Books.

I might not look at wall cabinets when I scan these books. I look at lots of casework pieces and their proportions, mouldings and the arrangement of the components, such rails and stiles from doors.

When I’m saturated (a few trips through the treasury will do that), I’ll start sketching. It’s not formal. I just draw without regard to perfectly straight lines or dimensions. I sketch in the car while waiting for the kids to finish track practice. Or in the few minutes of peace I get between the bedtimes of the two kids. I sketch things that I’m sure won’t work just to give them their day in ink.

The more examples I draw, the better the chance I’ll hit something I really like. I don’t use the Golden Section or any other mathematical formula. It’s all gut.

Then I fire up a CAD program on my laptop and try to turn the sketches into something that can be built and has some dimensions that make sense – a dining table that’s 30” high, for example.

While In CAD I’ll make a few variations that take advantage of the cut-and-paste power of the program. I’ll move the drawers and doors around. Add a cupholder. With this wall cabinet I tried it with two doors (like the Nutting original), one door, then a door with a drawer.

Then I show the CAD drawings to others and ask them which ones they like. Why they like it isn’t as important – though I always ask. Maddy, my 12-year-old, liked the two-door version of this cabinet because of the symmetry and that you could display two contrasting pieces of pottery behind the glass panes. Katy, the 8-year-old, liked the drawer because it could be used to “hold little things.” Lucy, my wife, declined to put a dog in that fight.

Next stop: If I have time, I’ll knock together a prototype in poplar to see if it looks awkward. Prototyping always pays off in two ways: I make small adjustments that improve the design, and I’ll typically keep the prototype for our family.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/18/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Editor's note: Because it's "Workbench Week Internazionale" I decided to tie up a loose end from my book: "Workbenches: from Blah, blah blah to Yadda yadda yadda." On page 57 I discuss Thomas Stangeland's bench and point out how the best woodworking I've seen has been built on the most minimal of workbenches.

Helpful reader Tom Moore visited Stangeland's shop recently and snapped the above photo of the bench. Below is the story that goes with that workbench.



In 2006 I taught a class in handwork at a school where Thomas Stangeland, a maestro at Greene & Greene-inspired work, was also teaching a class. Though we both strive for the same result in craftsmanship, the process we each use couldn’t be more different. He builds furniture for a living, and he enjoys it. I build furniture because I enjoy it, and I sell an occasional piece.

One evening we each gave a presentation to the students about our work. One of the pieces I showed was an image of my French workbench. I discussed its unusual workholding devices and how the bench was a bit of a Thor Heyerdahl experience.

Thomas then got up and said he wished he had a picture to show of his workbench for the last decade: a door on a couple horses. He said that a commercial shop had no time to waste on building a traditional bench. And with his power-tool approach, he just needed a flat surface and some clamps to work.

It’s hard to argue with the end result. His furniture is beautiful.

But what’s important to note here is that you can get by with the door-off-the-floor approach, but there are many commercial woodworkers who still see the utility of a traditional workbench. Chairmaker and furnituremaker Brian Boggs uses more newfangled routers and shop-made devices with aluminum extrusions than I have ever seen in a shop. And he still has two enormous traditional workbenches that see constant use.

The point here is that a good bench won’t make you a better woodworker. And a not-quite-a-bench won’t doom you to failure. But a good bench in any shop will make many power-tool operations easier and open the door to permit you to try many hand-tool operations. The bench is simply another tool. It’s the biggest wooden clamp in the shop.

As Thomas was wrapping up his part of the show he showed an interesting slide of an enormous and thick slab of an exotic wood he had been stashing for years and years in his shop.

“I just need to find the right project for it,” he said.

“Hey Thomas,” I heckled, “that slab sure would make a great benchtop.”

He laughed. Next slide, please.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/18/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Matt Vanderlist has just posted a podcast of a conversation he and I had last week. I hesitate to call it an interview because it sounds a lot like us just goofing around and joking about woodworking.

So I guess, it actually just sounds a lot like a day at the office.

In any case, we discuss handsawing, premium tools and how we generate story ideas here at Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking. Plus Matt and I brainstorm an idea for a shop garment that ensures you never have to take a break while woodworking – and it composts the yard. (If anyone has a good name for this product, post it here.)

It was a fun conversation and if you have some time at your desk and want to look like you're working… I highly recommend it.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

If you were charmed by Harrelson Stanley's Japanese workbench, then here is another variant for you that was built by Russ Merz of Cincinnati, Ohio.

Merz built this bench about seven years ago. The horses were built using scrap oak salvaged from pallets. The beam was built from 2x4 construction lumber.

"I read about these and just had to have one," Merz writes. "I think you know the feeling."

Here are the stats: The trestles are 20" high and 38" wide. Each foot is 21" long. The slab is 3-1/8" x 8-3/4" x 68".

So how does he like using the bench? Well, he doesn't. The parts for the bench usually sit below his European-style workbench. But for our benefit, he dusted them off, set them up outside and snapped these photos.
 
"Even though I never use this, it was fun making," Merz writes. "About a year or so after you make this (bench), brush off the dust, sign it, put it on eBay and donate the proceeds to your favorite charity."

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Woodworker James Oliver has built a massive workbench with French lines (tree trunk legs), English-style workholding (a twin-screw face vise) and some modern practicality (a quick-release vise in the end-vise position).

When I first posted photos of Oliver's bench in January, readers wanted to see more photos – not only of the bench, but of the shop. Oliver, who works part-time for Coastal Carvings in Coombs, British Columbia, obliged with these two other views of his bench and shop. Click on the photos to see the full-size versions.

The layout for a hand-tool shop is pretty sweet. There's a saw till at the right of the photo with planes above. The window directly behind the bench is also home to a rack with striking and boring tools. And check out the nice collection of chisels on the left.

For me, however, the best part is the floor. Our shop in Cincinnati has a concrete floor, as does my shop at home. Almost every year, I come up with some scheme to lay a wooden floor in both shops, but something (usually my love of eating meat once in a while) gets in the way.

Thanks to Oliver for these photos of another inspiring shop and bench.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/16/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

Many readers were interested in Bill Liebold's sliding leg vise, which he installed on his Roubo-meets-Dominy-style workbench (I'm just going to call this form the "Bill Bench" from here out).

Liebold liked the sliding aspect of the leg vise because when you used it in tandem with a fixed leg vise, you could clamp just about anything. Need to dovetail a 24"-wide case side? That's child's play for this set-up. How about planing an entryway door? Just as easy.

This sliding leg vise arrangement was shown in a plate in Andre Roubo's 18th century treatise on woodworking, but I've never seen one in the wild on an old bench. Perhaps that's because there is a weakness to the original design (or my employer is not funding enough trips to France for me). Liebold said the pressure applied by the screw could bow the front edge of the bench out. This occurred because the vise runs in a track on the underside of the benchtop. When hard pressure was applied, the tongue that rides in the track would push out in some cases, bowing the front of the bench.

Liebold, however, has now fixed that problem. The solution? Steel.

"Well, I just had to make my sliding leg vice work in a permanent way so I wouldn’t have to worry about it breaking," Liebold writes. He lined the track with steel (you can get this from a home center).

So how does it work?

"Now the weakest part of the vice is the parallel guide," Liebold writes. "I cinched down on a piece of basswood until I could hear wood starting to crackle. I was able to dent the basswood and I bent the brass pin in the parallel guide. Success!"
 
— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/15/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Electronic Drawings
Bookmark and Share

Now you can download six free SketchUp drawings for projects published in Woodworking Magazine during the last four years.

These files work with Google's free drafting program, SketchUp, and allow you to take the projects apart, see the joinery and view the projects at any angle. These files are great for understanding how a project goes together before you start building it.

These files were provided by draughtsman Louis Bois, who has been providing technical illustrations for Woodworking Magazine for the last couple issues. Louis does these drawings as a free service to the readers, so please join me in thanking him for his hard work.

The projects below are some our favorites:

Shaker Hanging Cabinet: This is the cover project from Issue No. 1. I've built this project about five times now for various family members and customers, and it is always well-received.

HangingShakerCabinet.zip (100.4 KB)

Shaker Side Table: This project from Issue 2 has enormous popularity. The delicate legs and fine proportions of the top make this project one of my favorites.

ShakerEndTable.zip (125.94 KB)

Sliding-lid Box: Also from Issue 2, this box is a great lesson in how to build drawer boxes (with one table-saw set-up) and makes a great home for your chisels.

SlidingLidBox.zip (31.44 KB)

Dining Room Tray: From Issue 5, this project is a great lesson in learning to use cut nails (and a tanning bed) to build a nice cherry project.

DiningRoomTray.zip (24.34 KB)

Enfield Cabinet: Also from Issue 6, this tall cabinet -- it looks like a jelly cupboard I suppose -- is an excellent lesson in vintage case construction techniques.

EnfieldShakerCabinet.zip (128.46 KB)

American Trestle Table: This cover project from Issue 6 has a special place in my heart because the prototype is my dining room table. Endless nights of homework have trashed the perfect film finish, but I like it even more now than they day I finished it.

AmericanTrestleTable.zip (75.25 KB)

All of these files are compressed in a .zip format. Double-clicking on them will unzip them.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/15/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

Some of my favorite tools came from the hands of Kevin Drake, the founder of Glen-Drake Toolworks in Ft. Bragg, Calif.

Anyone who has been in our shop for more than 30 seconds knows my affection for the Tite-Mark cutting gauge. It is, hands down, without equal. And I wouldn't want to work wood without it. (You can download a pdf of my 2005 Endurance Test of this tool using the link below.)

TiteMarkENDTEST.pdf (121.29 KB)

But Drake makes other extraordinary tools. His chisel hammers are excellent (I use the No. 3 size). His plane-adjusting hammer is on the rack in my shop at home and taps every plane iron into position in my work.

Lately Drake has been developing a line of tools that help with dovetailing, including a scraper-like tool that starts your saw kerf, and a new dovetail saw with two handles. We've been itching to bring Drake to our shop for a hand-on workshop and now we have finally arranged a free evening workshop for readers at 6 p.m. on May 8 in our shop in Cincinnati.

If you've never been to these events, they're a tremendous amount of fun. We serve you dinner, and then Drake will demonstrate his new saw (and other tools). Then you'll have an opportunity to use the tools in our shop and ask all the questions you like. And if you hang around late enough, we usually end up all going out for a beer afterward.

Right now we have about 10 spots still open for the workshop. If you want to attend, please send an e-mail to Megan Fitzpatrick at megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com to reserve a spot.

I've known Drake for many years and he is both an accomplished woodworker and toolmaker. After a career as a musician, Drake attended the College of the Redwoods under James Krenov. He's a fascinating and thoughtful guy, and I'm certain he's going to put on an excellent show. Hope to see you there.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/14/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

As I was unpacking my tools for the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event in Chicago this weekend, John Economaki from Bridge City Tools stepped up to my workbench with an astonishing piece of wood.

It was a narrow slice off the end of a dowel that was .004" thick. It was cut with a handsaw.

"I cut this with my new saw," Economaki said. "You ready for a rematch?"

Earlier this fall, he and I had a sawing contest to see who could make the thinnest crosscut (he won that contest; see the full story here). Economaki handed me the paper-thin slice and I knew two things: I didn't want a rematch, but I definitely wanted to see his new saw.

Turns out it is more than just a handsaw. It's a Japanese sawblade mounted in a frame that was topped with sliding tables. It is, in essence, a hand-powered table saw with sliding tables. Economaki calls it the Jointmaker Pro, and it's going to be available this summer (most likely June, Economaki said).

In this photo, Economaki pulled away the stops so you can see what the cutting action looks like across the sloped blade.

Here are the particulars: The sawblade is mounted teeth-up in the frame of the Jointmaker. And the blade slopes up from the front of the tool to the rear. On top of the Jointmaker are two sliding tables – one on either side of the blade – that slide on dovetailed ways (no bearings, just a perfect fit).

Some of the controls are like a table saw: You raise and lower the blade with a crank, and you can bevel the blade left and right. To make common cuts, the Jointmaker Pro comes with a series of stops that you can set for the particular bevel angles.

Look familiar? The Jointmaker Pro has controls similar to a table saw. And as a bonus it bevels both left and right.

The two sliding tables can be moved in tandem at any angle between 0° to 47° by securing the Jointmaker Pro's wooden fence across them. Then you simply secure your work on the table with a couple very clever hold-downs and – zip – push the work over the blade.

The slope of the 28-tpi crosscut blade (a rip blade is available) cuts the work with surprisingly little effort. But how much wood can you cut with a human-powered table saw? Economaki said you can cut stock up to 5" wide and 1-1/2" thick. Thick stock requires a lot more strokes against the blade, but it's easy (I tried it).

What is most surprising about the tool is the resulting cut. It is the cleanest sawcut I've ever seen, whether by hand or power. Economaki made dozens of different kinds of cuts during the hand-tool event for dovetails, tenons, half-laps and bridles – and all them were flawless from the saw.

At the end of the show, he made a series of compound miters, and they went together with an air-tight fit.

Economaki said the idea for the tool came to him during a sleepless night.

"I began by putting a Japanese saw blade upside down in a vise," he said. "I made a cut by pushing the work over the blade, and the light went on."
 
The Jointmaker Pro will cost $1,195 retail, Economaki said, but there will be an introductory price of $995.

"It costs 10 times that of a good dozuki," he said. "Yet you get perfect results."

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/10/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Boring
Bookmark and Share

The best hand drills ever made came out of the Millers Falls factory in the first half of the 20th century. While many people used these drills for boring holes in metal, the tools proved remarkably adept at becoming the first generation of cordless drills for woodworking.

These drills are today called eggbeater drills because of the way the drive mechanism works. The main gear turns either one or two pinions on the tool’s shaft to turn the chuck backward or forward – just like an old kitchen eggbeater.

My favorite eggbeater drills are the Nos. 2, 2A and 5 made by Millers Falls. These drills were made to an astonishingly high degree of precision, and are easily comparable to tools manufactured today by Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, Veritas, Wenzloff & Sons, Adria or Gramercy.

The eggbeater drills are fairly common at flea markets, but they are also usually in dogmeat shape. The gears are rusted. The bearings are gummed up. The wood knobs are dried out and cracked. The frames have lost all their paint.

But now Wiktor Kuc, the owner of WKTools.com and WKFineTools.com, is restoring and selling these drills on his website and on eBay. He recently sent me a Millers Falls No. 5 that he has restored, and I am just stunned by the quality of the restoration.

This tool looks better than any example of a Millers Falls I’ve ever seen. It looks good no matter how close you examine it. Inside the chuck. At the seam between the ferrule and the handle. Where the pinions mesh with the main gear.

Kuc says he’s been restoring these kinds of drills for a year. He’s been learning the best way to disassemble and clean the tools, how to apply principles from jewelers to polish the metalwork, and how to deal with the dried-out wood.

“I started doing this for myself,” Kuc says. “I love to restore old tools. I read Herb Keane’s book (‘Restoring Antique Tools’) and it blew my roof off. I had to learn to do that.”

Since he started restoring drills (and some braces), Kuc’s resurrected more than 130 Millers Falls drills, 30 Goodell-Pratt drills and a number of braces.

He takes all the drills apart as much as possible, strips them clean and then rebuilds them so they look and work perfectly. The ones he can restore to their full glory Kuc sells on his web site after four to five coats of paint and refinishing everything. The drills that he cannot get perfect he sells on eBay at a reduced price, though they are functionally perfect.

The perfect drills cost between $60 and $110, depending on their rarity. On eBay, the current crop of drills cost between $50 and $90. Are they worth it? Absolutely. If you want a cordless drill that will never run out of juice (until you run out of juice) an eggbeater like this is ideal for any toolbox.

These tools have small chucks that are great for furniture-scale twists and brad-point bits. I use hand drills all the time when making pilot holes, especially for screws or nails.

And one more thing: If you already have a Millers Falls drill, Kuc also sells reproduction parts for these drills that are usually missing, such as the side knobs and the bits that are stored in the handles.

Millers Falls drills are very common, so if you don’t want a restored one you’ll be able to find them at garage sales, flea markets and eBay (they are not scarce by any measure). But if you want the best – a tool that looks as good as it works, check out Kuc’s selection. Highly recommended by me (and banned by wivesagainstschwarz.com).

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 4/9/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Reader Questions
Bookmark and Share

If you haven't surmised it yet, one of the themes running through the Spring 2008 issue is the fact that accurate sawing has a lot more to do with accurate chisel work than anything else. When you cut a tenon shoulder, it's the chisel that cuts the part of the joint that shows – the saw just removes the waste below.

Several readers have picked up on this theme, and they've also pointed out (politely, I might add) what looks like a contradiction in my instructions about chiseling.

In the article on the Stickley Tabourets, I'm chiseling the joint line for the half-lap joint with the bevel of the chisel facing away from the waste (you can see this on page 10). A few pages later (page 19) I'm chiseling the shoulder for a tenon with the bevel of the chisel facing into the waste.

Have I finally taken one too many sips of La Fin Du Monde?

Perhaps, but I did have a good reason for what I did – I just didn't have the room in the issue to explain it. So here goes:

When you deepen a knife line by striking it with a chisel, there are two important things to consider. First is what shape the resulting knife line will be, and second is how much the chisel will shift when you rap its handle with a mallet.

The first part is easy to understand. Chisels are wedge-shaped. They have a flat face and a bevel. So when you knock the tool straight down into your work it makes a "V"-shaped cut that is a photocopy of this shape. One side of the V is straight up and down. The other side of the V is sloped.

The second part also has to do with the fact that chisels are wedges. When you drive a chisel with a mallet, it doesn't want to travel straight down in a line that's parallel to the flat face of the chisel. Instead, it wants to travel at an angle that is halfway between the bevel and the flat face. So if you have a 20° bevel on your chisel (as I do in the paring chisel shown in the articles), the chisel doesn't want to travel at 90° (straight down), it wants to move at 80°. (This assumes you have wood pushing back equally on the bevel and the face of the chisel.)

This is why when you are chiseling out your waste between dovetails that the chisel is always trying to move toward (and even cross) your baseline.

Whew. With all that on the table, I can now explain why I did what I did.

When chiseling a tenon shoulder, the shape of the line created by the chisel is critical. I want it perfectly square so it will close tight with the stile. So I chisel the joint with the bevel facing the waste. If this so happens to shrink the overall length of the tenoned part by 1/128", I can live with that. I want the joint to be tight more than I care about its final length.

When chiseling a half-lap joint, my considerations are different. This isn't a show joint, so I just want it to be tight and structural. The shoulder line isn't as critical. That's why I chisel with the bevel facing away from the waste. The chisel will then drift into the waste a tad. So when I saw the joint, the notch made by the chisel will encourage the saw to cut a half-lap that is just a tad tight. Then I can plane the piece's mate to get a perfect fit.

This might be a little fussy for you. If so, I apologize. A chisel seems so simple (it's a steel and wooden corndog!), but it actually is a subtle instrument (like a corndog with chorizo inside). Play around with the tool. Try it with the bevel out and then with the bevel in. And let us know what you discover.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/8/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

One of my (many) blind spots in woodworking is Japanese tools and shop practices. Sure, I’ve read Toshio Odate’s excellent autobiography, plus “The Genius of Japanese Carpentry.” And I drool with great regularity on the Japan Woodworker catalog.

But I understand Japanese shop practices as much as I understand all the acronyms my 12-year-old daughter uses when texting. DFLA!

So I’m always eager to learn about Japanese woodworking from people who have studied and practiced it in Japan. One of those people is Harrelson Stanley, the owner of JapaneseTools.com and the man who brought Shapton waterstones to American shores.

Stanley completed the furniture program at the premier North Bennett Street School as a very young man and then went off to Japan to study the traditional lacquering and woodworking trades. He came back to this country with a Japanese wife and a deep desire to spread the traditional Japanese practices among Western woodworkers.

This weekend at the Northeastern Woodworkers Association's annual show, Stanley was demonstrating his new Sharp Skate honing guide, teaching people to sharpen edge tools and helping people learn to wield a handplane on his Japanese bench.

The bench consists of two trestle-style sawhorses that are topped with one massive slab of a top. Except for the teak planing stop, all the bench’s parts are made using Port Orford Cedar, Stanley says, a durable and strong member of the cypress family that grows in the Pacific Northwest.

This particular bench was built by James Blauvelt, a Connecticut cabinetmaker, joiner and carpenter who runs the company Bluefield Joiners. But is this bench typical of what would be found in a Japanese workshop?

“Actually, it’s a little too nice,” Stanley says. “In a Japanese shop they would use something more makeshift.”

Harrelson Stanley demonstrates how the notch in the top is used to true a plane's sole.

Here are some of the critical dimensions: The trestles are made from 3-1/2” x 3-1/2” stock throughout, with an overall height of 23-3/4” from the floor to the top of each sawhorse. The top is 3-1/2” thick, 10-1/4” wide and 8’ long. The working height of the benchtop is 27-1/2”, which is fairly low by modern Western standards.

The slab rests on the sawhorses and is held in place by a single cleat below the top that fits against the top of one of the sawhorses. Gravity and the force of the work keeps the top in place.

The top is considerably narrower than the sawhorses, which prompted me to ask why. Is that where stock was placed before or after it was worked? Not really, Stanley says. Typically, the Japanese woodworker would place a thin board across the two trestles and place the tools he or she needed on that board. Because this board is thin, it typically kept the tools out of the way of the work.

Another interesting feature of the benchtop is a triangular notch cut into the slab up near the planing stop. This notch holds Japanese planes with their soles facing up so the craftsman can dress the tool’s wooden sole with another plane.

As I was taking a few photos of the bench, one of Stanley’s daughters, Abby, demonstrated her planing skills on a piece of Port Orford Cedar (that wasn’t part of the workbench). After taking a couple warm-up passes, she pulled off a beautiful shaving that was almost entirely full width and full length. And, as you can see, the bench wasn’t too high for her.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 4/1/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

A few years ago, I attended the Woodworkers Showcase show in Saratoga Springs, N.Y., and I was amazed. It was the most perfect woodworking show I had ever attended. Why? Because of four things.

1. The free classes and seminars were extraordinary. That year I learned more about cold-bending from Jere Osgood and furniture design from Garrett Hack in a single day than I'd learned by reading (too many) books.

2. An amazing display of furniture, turnings and other objects (even a canoe!) that were built by the members of the club who put on the show, the Northeastern Woodworker's Association.

3. Hands-on displays and demonstrations of jigs, fixtures, carving and sash-making that were ongoing the entire weekend.

4. And, of course, booths and booths of vendors selling new equipment and vintage tools.

And amazingly, admission for all this was just $7 for adults.

This year, I was asked to demonstrate at the Woodworkers Showcase – a huge honor – on April 5 and 6. It's this coming weekend at the Saratoga Springs City Center. Click here for information on the event.

I'll be demonstrating the scraper sharpening technique I developed after plumbing the historical record, and I'll be showing off the three kinds of handsaw cuts that I discuss in the newest issue of Woodworking Magazine.

In addition to my demonstrations, you can also catch demos from chip-carver Wayne Barton, box-maker and instructor Doug Stowe (ask him about Sloyd if you see him) and Peter Korn, who runs the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship and is a talented woodworker. Plus, there will be demonstrations from members of the club on every topic imaginable, from marquetry to miniatures to turning to rustic furniture construction.

When I'm not teaching, I'll be in a booth selling a few books, magazines and DVDs. If you're at the show, do stop by and say hello.

If you live anywhere in the northeast, this is a show that shouldn't be missed. People drive from all over the eastern seaboard to attend the Woodworkers Showcase. It's worth it (heck – I flew up from Cincinnati when I first attended).

Hope to see you there.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/30/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

The last place I ever expected to stumble on Andre Roubo’s handiwork was next to an Art Deco radio and underneath some old water jugs. But on Saturday, I walked into an antiques store in Ottawa, Canada, and there was a worn but functional Roubo-style workbench perched patiently under a window.

OK, let me back up a minute: I was in Canada (actually, as I write this I still am in Canada) to judge a tool-making contest for Wood Central. The judging was held in the corporate boardroom at Lee Valley Tools, and at one point Robin Lee, the president of the company, and Doug, one of Robin’s old-tool conspirators, took me aside.

“Do you want to see a Roubo workbench?” Robin asked.

My reply was something along the lines of what bears do when in they have natural urges in the woods. So after we wrapped up the judging for the day, we headed out to the antiques store. We opened the front door, and it was sitting right there – underneath some metalware, stoneware and an old sled.

So I dropped to my knees and (I know you think the next word is “prayed”) poked around the undercarriage of the bench. I can’t say how old this bench is, but I can give you some interesting details about its construction and dimensions.

Overall, this Canadian Roubo is 8' 8-1/2" long, 17" deep and 28-3/4" high. The top is 2-3/8” thick and the consensus among the group is the top is pine. There is no planing stop evident in the top, but there is lots of evidence of holdfast holes that were plugged. The top is made of two pieces. A very wide front piece and a narrow piece at the back that is joined with a square-shaped spline.

The joint is at the exact point where the rear legs pierce the top of the workbench. The rear legs are slanted (as you can see in the photo) and join the top with the exact joint that Roubo shows in his landmark 18th century woodworking book – it’s basically a through-dovetail combined with a through-tenon.

The front legs are joined to the top using this same joint. All the legs are 3" x 3" and look to be some sort of oak. The legs join the stretchers of the bench about 4" from the floor and each joint is pegged with through-pegs.

To plane long boards, there is a long stile that runs from the benchtop to the stretcher at about the midpoint of the bench’s front. The stile is pierced by numerous small holes for pegs that will support boards on edge. The far right leg is also pierced by a couple holes, though these holes were larger in diameter than those on the stile – perhaps they were for holdfasts.

The single drawer in the bench pulled right out. Inside was one small till and sliding tracks for at least two more (which were not in the drawer).

The leg vise (in the face vise position) was traditional in structure. The vise screw was wooden and quite worn (though it still worked). The nut at the rear of the jaws was detached and needed to be reattached.

The leg vise had a parallel guide that pierced the rear jaw, though its pin was long gone. The leg vise’s position on the top was quite interesting. The top cantilevered off the bench’s base on the bench’s left side by 24". On the right, only by 4". The leg vise was roughly centered on the cantilever. The lower part of the vise’s rear jaw was secured to the front leg with a strap of metal.

Overall, the bench was incredibly sturdy and showed evidence of heavy use and age. One of the members of our party asked if someone could have faked the bench or aged a newer example to look old.

While that’s always a possibility with antiques, the bench was selling for $2,000 Canadian, so if it was faked, the faker wasn’t going to be getting rich off this bench – it’s a lot of wood and there were a lot of wear marks that would have to be faked.

After about a half an hour of me making geeky statements (“Look you can see how the shell bit tore out the grain as it pierced the leg!”) I could tell it was time to go. All the members of our scouting party were standing around looking at me like my kids do when I’m on a lunatic woodworking speech.

There’s more bench news from this trip. While Lee and I were eating breakfast Saturday with Ellis Wallentine (from Wood Central) and Clarence Blanchard (a fellow judge from The Fine Tool Journal), Lee said two words between mouthfuls of eggs that has me sketching wildly this evening: “furniture” and “workbench.” More on this later topic next month.

— Christopher Schwarz
, who this weekend picked up tips on teasing people on the Internet from Robin Lee, master taunter.


Posted 3/27/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I've never fully understood how the U.S. Postal Service works – beyond the fact that you put an envelope in a slot here and it arrives somewhere else. This week, I don't expect any enlightenment on that mystery.

The Spring 2008 issue of Woodworking Magazine mailed out from St. Cloud, Minn., on March 17. I received my copy at my Kentucky home on Monday. Readers in New Mexico and Virginia have also gotten it, but readers in Indiana (and Australia) have not.

So the bottom line is that the magazine is still in transit to places both near and far. We're grateful for your patience with our first issue; I think you'll find it worth the wait. And if there turns out to be a problem with your subscription in the end, we'll definitely make it right.

To that end, I spent this morning enhancing one of the articles in the Spring 2008 Issue called "Understanding Western Backsaws." I converted it to a pdf and added some bookmarks and interesting external links to the story.

So to tide you over until your copy arrives in the mail, please click the link below to download the article.

WesternBacksaws2.pdf (1.9 MB)

Also, here is the publication schedule for the rest of 2008. After shifting around some dates, our manufacturing department has now cast these in stone (as opposed to Jell-O).

Summer 2008 issue:
Starts mailing to subscribers the week of May 5.
Fall 2008 issue: Starts mailing to subscribers the week of July 14.
Winter 2008 issue: Starts mailing to subscribers the week of Nov. 24.

Kind regards,
Christopher Schwarz, editor


Posted 3/25/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Joinery | Saws
Bookmark and Share

I'm always looking for little tricks to improve dovetailing, especially the part I dislike: transferring the tails' locations to the pin board.

Sawmaker Mike Wenzloff stumbled across this interesting short entry in William Fairham’s book “Woodwork Joints, How they are Set Out, How Made and Where Used” (available for free download here at the most awesome Project Gutenberg). After describing how some woodworkers use a knife or a saw to transfer the marks, Fairham writes:

“Other workers prefer a pounce-bag instead of a saw. A pounce-bag consists of a piece of fairly open woven muslin filled with a mixture of French chalk and finely-powdered whiting; the muslin is tied up with a piece of thin twine like the mouth of a flour sack. All that is necessary is to place the timber in position and bang the bag on the top of the saw-cuts, when sufficient powder will pass through the bag and down the saw kerf to mark the exact positions of the lines.”

So it was off to the store to buy some pantyhose.

But first, we had to find whiting and French chalk. The French chalk was fairly easy – it's essentially powered talc. You can find it at the fabric stores where it is used for marking cloth. Or you can go to the pharmacy and buy baby powder, which is talc and fragrance (essence du hinder l'enfant).

Whiting was harder for us to find. It is calcium carbonate (ground chalk) and is used in preparing artist paints these days. After a couple of clueless looks and pointless phone calls, Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick found some at an artist supply store.

And then the muslin. Surprisingly, we're a yard short on muslin in the workshop right now. So Megan suggested I buy pantyhose for the bag. I balked a bit. So she picked out a nice pair of L'eggs Everyday knee-highs (color: nude with a sheer toe), paid the man and we were off to the races.

Now before I ruined a nice new pair of knee-highs, I decided to try some other fabrics. First up: some old surgical rags that former Senior Editor David Thiel brought into the shop about 10 years ago. It actually was too coarse and the powder went flying.

Then I tried an athletic sock (I use them to transport my block planes to shows and classes). Bingo. It deposited a fine dusting of powder when I whacked the sock on the dovetails.

As I was experimenting with the different whacking forces and whacking vectors, I cleaned off the pin board after each whack with a little water and a rag. And that water seemed to make the powder even easier to see.

Then I tried marking some knife lines and just whacking those (seeing knife lines in walnut is really hard for me). That worked, too. The resulting pins were easy to see and to saw. I'm going to have to experiment with the technique some more, but it's another thing to tuck into your bag of tricks (or your nude, sheer-toe knee-highs).

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 3/19/2008 in All Weblog Posts
Bookmark and Share

I want to take a minute here to apologize to many of our new subscribers who have not received the first issue of their subscription to Woodworking Magazine, but they have received a bill for the subscription.

We hit a couple rough spots with this first mailing, and I promise you I am doing everything I can to ensure it never happens again.

Bottom line: Issue 9 went out in the mail on Monday, March 17. If you live in the United States, you should have your copy by March 24. International orders should take a bit longer.

If you'd like to read the gory details, here they are, short and sweet: The magazine was supposed to mail from the printer during the week of March 3. Our printer, however, received the wrong mailing labels. Meanwhile, the bills went out in the mail (on time). And now we have confused and frustrated would-be readers.

If you have a bill and checked the status of your subscription on-line and it says "suspended," please ignore that. It's a poor choice of words on our part and we're working to fix that. It means that your payment is "pending."

Thanks everyone for your patience as we get this horse out of the gate. The next issue will go smoother.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/19/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Woodworking Classes
Bookmark and Share

There are still spaces left for a week-long summer course in handsawing at the Northwest Woodworking School in Portland, Ore. It is the only class I'm teaching this year that has not sold out.

During the five days of instruction I'll be diving deeply into saws and joinery – weaving together the historical facts about the art that I've dug up with the hands-on exercises I've been practicing since I picked up my first handsaw at age 8.

Unlike my other weekend classes on sawing, I'll be covering the entire gamut of the craft, from breaking down rough stock with an 8-point crosscut handsaw to cutting dovetails that are tight and made with a minimum of fuss. (I've actually just posted a blog entry on dovetail cutting angles on my personal blog that you might find interesting.)

The other interesting aspect of this course is we explore the joinery planes that are used in conjunction with handsaws to make perfect – and I mean perfect – hand-cut tenons, half-laps, dados, notches and sliding dovetails. (In other words, you'll finally learn what your router plane is really good for.)

Plus, we'll be building two projects: a traditional English sawbench for your shop and a hand-dovetailed silverware tray for your family.

The class runs from July 14 to 18 and costs $725 plus the materials for the sawbench and silverware tray. You can read more information about the class at the Northwest Woodworking Studio's web site. Or you can drop me a line via e-mail if you have any questions.

Hope you can join us. If you'd like to see photos of past classes I've taught on sawing, check out this link to a weekend class I taught recently at Kelly Mehler's School of Woodworking and a one-day seminar at the Woodcraft in Sterling Heights, Mich. Also, there's a short podcast about the class at Matt's Basement Workshop you can listen to. Matt Vanderlist, the host of the shop, was one of the students in the Woodcraft show. (He made some wicked-tight half-laps.)

— Christopher Schwarz



Posted 3/17/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

One of my favorite things about the Holtzapffel Workbench I built for Issue 8 of Woodworking Magazine is the monster twin-screw vise with wooden vise screws. The wooden screws move the vise's chop quickly, engage the work firmly and are quite durable.

Plus, they're wood. And I like wood.

Now there's a new source of wooden vise screws that I can heartily recommend after inspecting the finished product this weekend. Woodworker Joe Comunale of Romeo, Mich., has started a new business called BigWoodVise.com to sell vise screws, nuts and handles for woodworking benches.

While I was teaching a couple classes at the Sterling Heights, Mich., Woodcraft, Joe stopped by the store to show me the screws, which he has been selling for some time to friends and fellow woodworkers in the Detroit area.

The screws are as nice as I have seen on any bench. The threads are crisp, with no visible chipping or tear-out along their entire lengths. The hub, which is the large end piece on the end of the screw, is finished as well as any piece of furniture. One style of hub that Joe makes, which he calls the "Classic" style, has crisp black lines burned into the hub.

The screws he sells come with the matching nut, the handle and round ball-shaped caps for the ends of the handle. The two nuts I tried moved smoothly and rapidly on the screws and showed very little slop in the mechanism. Joe says he wants to tighten up the fit of the nuts on the thread, but I think they're great as-is.

His vise screws attach to your vise's wooden chop with a garter system. Garter systems confuse many woodworkers who have never seen them, but they are really quite simple. The job of the garter is to secure the chop to the screw so that the chop will move out when you retract the screws.

The garter itself is a small piece of wood that is mortised into the chop of your vise and held in place with friction. One end of the garter nests into a groove in the screw.

The 2"-diameter, 2 threads-per-inch screws from BigWoodVise.com are made from ash. The handles I inspected were made from maple.

Joe has just launched his web site recently and is having a "March Madness" sale that ends March 31. So if you are in the market for vise screws, you might want to place your order soon. The "Classic" vise screw, nut and handle are on sale for $99 for each set this month – the regular price is $150 for each set.

This business is a side job for Joe, who is a mechanical engineer, but he plans to keep several screws in stock and promises (at most) a four-week delivery time. He also is happy to do custom work if you have something special in mind. Contact Joe at joe@BigWoodVise.com for details.

So if you're tired of getting grease marks on your work from your metal-screw vise, or you are building a bench with an old-school look, then definitely check out these screws from BigWoodVise.com. I don't have any plans for building another bench (where would I put it?), but if I do, I'm definitely going to buy a set of these screws myself.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/11/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

When it comes to saws, aspiring sawyers have two basic questions: What saws should I own to build furniture? And where can I get them?

During the last couple years I've been teaching a few classes on sawing, with more classes on the horizon. So I've been asked these two questions a lot. Below is my basic set, which is based on the furniture I build (casework, chairs, tables, general stuff), my personal preferences (I like longer, coarser saws) and established historical practice.

In other words, if you have a problem with my list, make you own list and post it below in the comments. Perspectives from other sawyers are useful and interesting.

1. Crosscut handsaw: I like an 8-point crosscut handsaw for breaking down rough stock and general dimensioning of material. It cuts quickly (yea!), and the resulting surface is easy enough to clean up on a shooting board. Some woodworkers like 12-point saws, but I think they are slow and the resulting surface isn't significantly cleaner. My personal saw is a 24"-long panel saw (most handsaws are 26" long). It's a private-label saw made by Disston & Sons for an old Boston hardware store.

2. Ripsaw: I don't rip a lot by hand, but when I do, I want to be done with it. So I like a coarse ripsaw. The one shown in the photo is a 6-point Disston D-8. I also have a Wenzloff & Sons 5-point saw. Both are good workers. Some day I'll be man enough to use something even coarser.

3. Tenon saw: I have a few tenon saws. I prefer a saw that is about 10 points, though saws that are as fine as 13 points are OK by me (as long as the rake isn't significantly relaxed). Tenon saws start at 12" long, though I recommend the longer ones. Shoot for 14" at least; they make them as long as 19", which are surprisingly easy to wield. All tenon saws should be filed with rip teeth. They are designed to rip tenon cheeks.

4. Carcase saw: This is the backsaw I use more than any other. I like something that is 12 points to 14 points, filed crosscut, and about 14" long. The long sawplate helps improve my accuracy. The carcase saw shown in the photo is a sweet Wheeler, Madden & Clemson XLCR saw.

5. Dovetail saw: This is perhaps the most personal saw, so ignore my recommendation completely. If you like a 23-tooth Japanese crosscut dozuki, stick with it. Or a hacksaw. It doesn't matter. I like a 15-point Western saw with rip teeth. Shown is my Lie-Nielsen progressive-pitch saw, which has 15 points at the toe and about 9 at the heel. This is a love-it-or-leave-it saw for most people, so I recommend you try before you buy.

The names of saws are confusing. The types of saws overlap with one another in size and tooth configuration. I'd ignore the names in the catalogs and just buy them based on their specifications. It's much less confusing that way. Also, I use a lot of other specialty saws, including a flooring saw, jeweler's saw and a flush-cut saw. But those aren't necessary for all furniture-making.

Where to Buy Saws
There are lots of places to buy new, sharp backsaws, but buying a sharp handsaw or ripsaw is more of a challenge. However, there are three gentlemen I have bought handsaws and ripsaws from that I can recommend. Sometimes they also have backsaws in stock, though vintage backsaws are a lot more rare than handsaws.

Daryl Weir (weir@gallatinriver.net): 781 S. Market St., Knoxville IL 61448. Daryl sharpens saws and sells saws on eBay on occasion.

Steve Cook (SharpeningGuy01@aol.com): 1160 Taxville Road, York, PA 17408. Steve also sharpens saws if you have an old saw that you need toughed up (or completely refiled).

Tom Law: 62 West Water St., Smithsburg MD, 21783, 301-824-5223. Tom no longer sharpens saws for hire, but he will sell you a saw that he has rehabbed and sharpened.

If you know of other reliable sources for buying sharp handsaws, add a comment below.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/8/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

Tenon saws are one of the three essential backsaws for building furniture (the other two are the carcase saw and the dovetail saw), but until recently your choices were limited to:

1. A vintage tenon saw that you resurrected from the dead
2. A Japanese saw that may or may not be suited to cutting tenons
3. The excellent Lie-Nielsen tenon saw
4. Some other frustrating new English-named saw.

A couple years ago, sawmaker Mike Wenzloff started making tenon saws, including my freakishly huge Kenyon-style tenon saw that I have waxed on about so endlessly that you’d think that Mike must be washing and waxing my car every weekend. (He’s not, though he’s offered; it’s a long drive from Oregon to Cincinnati.)

And now Wenzloff, his sons, his lovely spouse and probably the family dog all make thousands of Western saws for Lee Valley Tools. It’s a lot of work for the Wenzloff family, I know, but it’s an absolute boon to woodworkers because now we have more choices in the marketplace. (Also, as noted in the comments, I don't own an Adria tenon saw, another new premium brand. I've used the Adria carcase and dovetail saws and they are good. I have no reason to suspect the tenon is any different.)

At issue here is not which brand of saw cuts better tenons. That point is honestly and truly moot. Both the Lie-Nielsen and Wenzloff brands come sharp, accurately filed and well-set. They both cut well once the saw has been broken in with some work and wax.

Instead, what’s important is the handle of the saw and the number of teeth. These factors will help you determine which saw is right for you. I’ve had a Lie-Nielsen tenon saw since the day the company started making them. I’ve had the Kenyon tenon saw for a couple years, and two weeks ago I ordered the Wenzloff Large Tenon Saw from Lee Valley. After a weekend of breaking in the new saw during a sawing class at Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking, I have a good feel for the Wenzloff tool and how is compares to the Lie-Nielsen version and the Kenyon tenon saw.

Let’s start with the teeth: The Kenyon tenon saw sold today is 10 points per inch (ppi). On my unit, Wenzloff filed the first couple inches with progressive rake. These few extra degrees of rake in the starting teeth make the saw easier to start, though not as easy as a progressive-pitch saw. Wenzloff says he'll add this rake (no more than 4°) to custom saws by request.

The Wenzloff & Sons Large Tenon Saw has 12 ppi. And the Lie-Nielsen has 10 ppi.

I was surprised how the difference in the number of teeth made a difference in the tool's cutting speed. The Kenyon tenon saw was the fastest because it was the longest, heaviest and (tied for) coarsest. The Lie-Nielsen was the second fastest, and the Wenzloff Large Tenon was a bit slower.

I prefer fast and coarse saws, but not everyone does. Beginners like finer saws, and people who do work in thin stock really like finer saws. So don’t judge a saw on its speed. It’s not a race. But if you work with thick stock, think coarse. Thin stock? Think fine.

The handles are also different. The Kenyon tenon saw has the most curves and feels more “made by hand” than the other saws. But the Lie-Nielsen is the most comfortable handle to my hand overall. I’m told that I have “girl hands,” but these girl hands seem to like slightly larger saw totes.

The Wenzloff Large Tenon Saw has a tote that appears to have more hand work than the Lie-Nielsen. The flats on the sides of the tote have been well-faired into the curves, and I suspect it is a process done by hand or with an inflatable drum on a sanding machine.

The tote of this Wenzloff saw feels good in my hands, but it’s just a little on the small side for me.

The other differences are aesthetic. The Lie-Nielsen comes stock with a maple handle (usually curly maple) and it looks like a 19th-century Disston. The Kenyon tenon saw is traditional European beech and reeks of the late 18th-century aesthetic. The Wenzloff Large Tenon Saw is bubinga, which matches Lee Valley’s house line of Veritas planes, and looks quite old school.

If you’ve read this far, you probably feel like I owe you a solid recommendation. I’m going to let you down. I’m delighted with all three saws and wouldn’t sell a single one. (Yes, Scott, I’m talking to you.) But what delights me even more is that we have a choice about what to buy. Not as many choices as the 1808 furniture-maker, but it’s a start.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws
Bookmark and Share

When you buy a handplane (even a Veritas or a Lie-Nielsen), it's not going to work well out of the box. You really need to hone the iron to do decent work.

However, with saws, it's more complicated.

If you buy a cheap Western handsaw or backsaw, chances are that the teeth aren't sharp or properly set. So you need to either learn to sharpen your saw or send it to somebody who already knows.

But if you buy a premium Western saw – Lie-Nielsen, Adria, Wenzloff & Sons – the challenges are different. The premium saws are set up and sharp, but I think you need to break in the saw before it will cut smoothly. Most new Western saws are too grabby at first, especially for beginners. But after about a dozen tenons the saw will be easier to start and will run more smoothly in its kerf.

I was reminded of this when I was teaching a class in precision sawing this weekend at Kelly Mehler's School of Woodworking. Many of the students brought new premium saws to the class, and several of them brought their new saws up to my bench and asked the question: "Could you try my saw and tell me if it's cutting well?"

On a couple saws, the teeth were set too strong on one side. We stoned those teeth (a couple strokes on a #1,000-grit stone) to help straighten out the way they steered.

But with most of the students' saws I tried out they cut true, but they were harder to start than my saws or they didn't run as smoothly in the kerf. In fact, one student, Glen Koopmans, had a heck of a time with his new tenon saw. It was hanging in the cut and just not working well at all.

He stayed late into the evening trying to figure out if it was just him or just the saw.

The next morning, we cut a few tenons with his saw and then lubricated the blade with some paraffin wax (I use canning wax from the grocery). By the end of the weekend class, Glen's saw was running as smoothly as mine, which has logged a couple hundred tenons by now.

What happened? Three things. One: The wax helped lubricate the blade in the cut, which helped reduce the grabbiness of the new teeth. Two: the dozen or so joints that Glen cut with the saw helped ease the freshly filed edges on the teeth. And three: After about a dozen tenons, Glen was a much better sawyer.

At the end of the day Sunday, Glen was cutting the cheeks of massive half-lap joints in resinous yellow pine for the sawbenches we were constructing. Even all the way across the room, you could hear how smoothly his tenon saw was cutting. And the resulting cheek looked as good as the cheek of a table-saw tenon.

So before you send your new saw back to the factory, put some wax on the blade and cut some tenons first. You might just be surprised how nice your saw is and how easy it is (really!) to saw.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 3/3/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Workbenches
Bookmark and Share

When I first built my French Roubo-style workbench, I put a sliding deadman on it to help support doors and long panels. But I have long intended to replace that deadman with a sliding leg vise.

Roubo actually shows this arrangement in one of his volumes, and it is a tempting morsel. However, as you will soon see, it is also an engineering challenge.

I'm tempted to build it because it would be the final solution for dovetailing and working on the long edges of boards. One end of the work would be held in the regular leg vise (located on the left leg). And the other end would be grasped by the sliding leg vise. With a long bench (mine is 8' long) you could hold almost any piece of wood you would find in a furniture-making shop.

The engineering challenge comes when you try to build it so it is sturdy and won't damage the bench. It can be done, of course, but adding the sliding leg vise as an accessory requires some careful thought.

Luckily, industrious reader Bill Liebold has built the sliding leg vise on his 12'-long Dominy-style workbench with an end vise. He is smitten with the functionality of the sliding leg vise, but is still working out the engineering aspects of it.

The real issue is that the sliding panel moves in a groove that is routed into the underside of the benchtop. When you really cinch down the sliding vise, it can bow out the front edge of the workbench.

"I was able to bow the front edge of the bench top but that was with far more pressure than I need to hold a piece of wood," Liebold writes. "I did it to see what would happen if I overtightened the vice. I like to experiment."

If you are considering adding a sliding leg vise, you are going to want to change the groove in the underside. Personally, I'd locate it as far back as possible from the front edge of the benchtop. Liebold thinks it would be best to have the groove start 3" in from the front edge, and to use a 1"-thick tenon on the sliding panel. I think that sounds about right.

There are lots of other ways to go about this, I'm sure. And now I'm toying again with the idea of adding a sliding leg vise if I can just get the engineering worked out in my head.

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/28/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

The fore plane is a traditional English tool used to get rough boards fairly flat so that you can then make them really flat with a jointer plane and ready to finish with a smoothing plane, scrapers and (sometimes) sandpaper.

Fore planes are supposed to be about 14" to 18" long. If you want to use an old metal plane as a fore plane, a No. 5 jack plane or No. 6 fore plane would be a good choice. I use a Hock Tools A2-steel replacement blade in my fore plane. A2 is a little harder to sharpen for me, but this modern steel takes a heck of a beating before it gives up, so it's perfect for a fore plane. I also have a couple wooden-bodied fore planes that are nice because their light weight makes them less tiring to use.

Fore planes are supposed to have a curved cutting edge and are used directly across and diagonal to the grain of your board. Most people understand the idea of working across the grain (it allows you to take a deeper cut without tear-out). But many people are flummoxed by sharpening the curve on the edge. In fact, I've had about a half dozen readers send me their irons and ask me to do it for them.

Because I don't want to open a sharpening service, here is how I grind and hone the curved edge of a fore plane's iron. It's a simple process. And if you take your time the first time you do it, I know that you will succeed.

This week I noticed that the edge of my metal fore plane was chipped up and the tool was getting quite hard to push. It was time to grind and hone a fresh edge. The first thing to do is mark the shape of the curve on the iron so I can replicate that shape. I use a curve that is an 8" radius. I've experimented with lots of curves between 10" and 6" radii. I like 8".

I have a wooden template that is the same width as my iron and has the curve shaped on one end. I place the template on flat face of the iron and mark the curve with an "extra fine" point Sharpie.


Place the template on your iron and trace its edge on your iron. A thin, consistent line is best.

Then I go to my grinder to remove all the nasty chipped-up metal. I keep my grinder's stock tool rest set to always grind a 25° bevel. I don't futz around with the tool rest. The first thing to do is to grind away the excess metal right up to your marked curve. This is done with the iron at 90° to the stone. I just balance the iron on the tool rest and go to town.

Grinding at 90° to the stone removes metal quickly to the shape you want and it creates a small flat on the edge of your iron. This is a good thing. The flat helps prevent your steel from overheating while you grind away the bevel at 25°. Thin steel heats up really quickly.


Hold the iron 90° to the wheel and show the edge to the iron. Remove all the steel right up to your Sharpie line. The first time you do this, take your time. It gets easy real quick.

When you get to the Sharpie line, put the iron flat on your tool rest and start grinding the bevel until the flat spot on the end is almost – repeat almost – gone. You remove the last little whisker of the flat on the sharpening stones.

Start by showing the middle of the iron to the grinder wheel. You'll feel when the bevel is flat on the stone. Then sweep the iron right to grind up to the left corner. Try to keep the bevel in full contact with the wheel the entire time. Then repeat this process and sweep left.

Continue to grind and watch the flat shrink. Don't use a lot of pressure when applying the iron to the wheel or you will cook your edge (it will get black).

Show the center of the iron to the wheel and sweep left or right. Here I'm sweeping right to grind to the left corner.


Here is my completed edge, ready for honing.


Here is the flat left on the tip of that edge. The reflection makes it look bigger than it really is. It's a little less than 1/64".


You can then hone the edge freehand. The edge doesn't have to be perfect because the fore plane never produces a finished surface. However, you can use your cheap little side-clamp honing guide to help you (and your edge will look a lot sweeter, as well).

Put the iron in your honing guide and set the iron to hone a 30° secondary bevel. Place the iron on your coarse stone (#1,000-grit or coarser if you've got it). Put finger pressure hard on one corner of the iron and press that to the stone. Pull the guide toward you and shift your pressure to the other corner. This will feel awkward at first. But eventually you'll rock it smoothly and naturally.

Repeat this process by starting with all your finger pressure on the other corner. If you are doing this correctly you should see an X-shape appear on your stone. Then it's just like sharpening any tool.

Rock the edge back and forth as you move the jig. This might look hard. It's not. It also tends to shape the wheel of your honing guide into a slight barrel shape – which is a good thing.

Remove the flat bit on the end of the iron – you'll know it's gone when you can feel a burr on the other face of the iron. Then move up the grits until you run out of grits or patience.

Now reassemble your chipbreaker and your plane. Sight down the sole of the plane and tweak the lateral-adjustment lever until the curve of the iron is in the center of the sole. This is easy to see.


When you are done sharpening you should have a nice even secondary bevel.

Then work directly across the grain of a board. Increase the projection of the iron until you are removing material quickly and can easily push the plane. The shavings should be thick – I shoot for 1/32"-thick with most woods.


You can probably take a larger shaving in a softwood, but I usually poop out if I try to take a shaving thicker than 1/32" – but yet, that's a lot of material for one stroke of a plane.

The fore plane is really useful for me, even though I have a nice powered planing machine. It allows me to remove material in a localized area with ease or to peel the edge off a rough board faster than my jointer (because I can work only the high spots). And it allows me to flatten boards and panels that are too wide for my jointer and planer.   

— Christopher Schwarz


Posted 2/25/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Handplanes
Bookmark and Share

“After many vain attempts at ornamentation ‘on my own’ I learned that choice classic designs had been well thought out and established before my birth. It was for me to study them, to revel in their line and proportion until the spirit became my own and controlled my perception.”

-- Walter Rose, “The Village Carpenter”


Among all the many types of handplanes, it is the so-called moulding planes that generate the most confusion, consternation and frustration among beginning woodworkers.

Drawing a fair moulding profile, selecting the tools to cut it and actually proceeding with the work is enough to make many woodworkers cling to their collection of router bits forever.

If you’re curious about cutting mouldings by hand, then I heartily recommend a new DVD from Don McConnell and Lie-Nielsen Toolworks that will lay the groundwork for you to understand the tools and how they are wielded.

And as valuable as these lessons are, I think the most eye-opening aspect of the DVD is that you get to watch McConnell make several profiles from start to finish. Seeing the profiles appear stroke by stroke, plane by plane, is a convincing argument that the work is fairly straightforward and do-able. And plus, the results are more beautiful than anyone can achieve with a routed and sanded moulding.

McConnell is, in my opinion, one of the most knowledgeable scholars on early woodworking tools who is working today. Plus, McConnell spent many years as an interpreter at The Ohio Village, a professional hand-tool furniture-maker and a highly regarded ornamental carver in the Columbus, Ohio, area. I’ve always thought of him as the Indiana Jones of the hand tool world – his encyclopedic knowledge of early woodworking is backed by years of putting his book-smarts to use at the bench.

As a result, this entire DVD is a jewel. McConnell, now a planemaker at Clark & Williams, explains the basic anatomy of mouldings so you can understand the difference between Grecian and Roman shapes, and you can see how complex mouldings are in fact the assemblage of simple forms.

McConnell then demonstrates a couple basic complex moulding planes (the side bead and the ovolo) so you can see how a complete (usually simple) moulding can be created with one plane.

Then he moves into the hollows and rounds, which are the tools that you can use to create almost any shape or size of moulding. McConnell efficiently shows how to lay out a moulding on your work and then prepare the profile with cuts from either a rabbet, plow or moving fillister plane. Finally, he demonstrates how the hollows and rounds bring the final moulding to shape with little fuss if you have followed the correct procedures. Proper rabbets help guide your hollow and round planes as they do their work.

In addition to creating several mouldings, McConnell also demonstrates how to sharpen moulding plane irons and how to maintain (and fix) their cutting profiles. He also shows how to properly saw (and shoot) your moulding so it can be